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  1. #1
    Dependent VintagePoison's Avatar
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    Default Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    NST Perfume says Ambre Sultan and Chergui may have been reformulated.
    Has anyone tried bottles with the new packaging from Sephora or other retailers?

    I will be stocking up on Ambre Sultan 100% as it is one of my biggest loves.

    https://www.nstperfume.com/2018/11/0...grance-review/
    Last edited by VintagePoison; 8th November 2018 at 07:40 AM.
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Did a back to back testing of old bottle vs. new bottle Chergui a couple months back and, trying to be as impartial as possible, found new bottle to really lack the punch, longevity, and vitality, that the vintage frag strongly exhibited. I will not be buying the new bottle Chergui. Hope that helps clarify the re-frag issue.


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  3. #3
    Dependent VintagePoison's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Thanks for that Bassrazz! So unfortunate.
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Hardly surprising. Both are among Lutens’ older releases.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    It has been quietly known (well on Basenotes), Lutens has a reformulation usually every 5 years. My Chergui was bought back in 2009 and I will say different from the version the OP has which has now been reformulated again. The original version juice was dark brown over time with reformulations people go by the colour of the juice. Mine is a brown with hints of burgundy, then later versions became more a burgundy colour.

    The company acknowledged themselves years back they did quietly reformulate, it was a Basenotes member who contacted the company and asked, there was a thread way back.
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  6. #6
    Dependent VintagePoison's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Sorry to bring it up again. I've seen speculations over the years but I must have missed the confirmation. I know how annoying it is to see reform threads when it has been discussed before. Mods feel free to delete.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    I have the new bottles and think they are just fine.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Sad news!
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    I've heard the same thing about Lutens, and it does make one wonder if the reforms revolve around IFRA issues, or if it's just laziness and a lack of concern on the part of SL.

    A shame though, as these two were a couple of real benchmarks in perfumerie back in the day.
    Currently wearing: Daim Blond by Serge Lutens

  10. #10

    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    It has been quietly known (well on Basenotes), Lutens has a reformulation usually every 5 years. My Chergui was bought back in 2009 and I will say different from the version the OP has which has now been reformulated again. The original version juice was dark brown over time with reformulations people go by the colour of the juice. Mine is a brown with hints of burgundy, then later versions became more a burgundy colour.

    The company acknowledged themselves years back they did quietly reformulate, it was a Basenotes member who contacted the company and asked, there was a thread way back.
    Whence I became interested in this hobby a few years ago, I learnt from other enthusiasts that fragrances are regularly reformulated for various reasons. I cannot speak to whether or not Lutens absolutely reformulates every five years per a business model, but if you have a Lutens's fragrance that is ten years old, for example, it is not unreasonable to think that the same fragrance may have been reformulated at least twice since you purchased your bottle. IFRA's regulations seem to keep evolving thus requiring reformulations, and of course, there is the issue of sourcing materials. If needed materials cannot be sourced, then a fragrance might be reformulated or not be produced at all for one, two, or more years. MFK's Absolue Pour Le Soir is a good example of the latter situation.

    As something of an aside, I find it fascinating how our memories undoubtedly fail us in so many ways over time, but our memories of exactly how a fragrance once smelt seem to be untouched by the many vagaries of time--at least according to some people. One has to wonder is it a real phenomenon or an imagined one, and how exactly does it work?
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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    As the common Basenotes mantra says... If you like it, buy it - immediately. If you love it, buy a backup bottle.

    Pretty much all fragrances get reformulated every now and then, and then we get disappointed when a new version comes out that is missing that spark that clicked with us in the first place. The fragrance is "kind of familiar", but... just not the same anymore. Been there so many times I now practically live by this mantra and have (often multiple) backup bottles of virtually all my favorite fragrances. Don't care for Chergui, never really liked it, but I definitely have two bottles of Ambre Sultan. :-]
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Anybody have a read on the newly rereleased Vetiver Oriental?
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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oriane View Post
    Whence I became interested in this hobby a few years ago, I learnt from other enthusiasts that fragrances are regularly reformulated for various reasons. I cannot speak to whether or not Lutens absolutely reformulates every five years per a business model, but if you have a Lutens's fragrance that is ten years old, for example, it is not unreasonable to think that the same fragrance may have been reformulated at least twice since you purchased your bottle. IFRA's regulations seem to keep evolving thus requiring reformulations, and of course, there is the issue of sourcing materials. If needed materials cannot be sourced, then a fragrance might be reformulated or not be produced at all for one, two, or more years. MFK's Absolue Pour Le Soir is a good example of the latter situation.

    As something of an aside, I find it fascinating how our memories undoubtedly fail us in so many ways over time, but our memories of exactly how a fragrance once smelt seem to be untouched by the many vagaries of time--at least according to some people. One has to wonder is it a real phenomenon or an imagined one, and how exactly does it work?
    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    As the common Basenotes mantra says... If you like it, buy it - immediately. If you love it, buy a backup bottle.

    Pretty much all fragrances get reformulated every now and then, and then we get disappointed when a new version comes out that is missing that spark that clicked with us in the first place. The fragrance is "kind of familiar", but... just not the same anymore. Been there so many times I now practically live by this mantra and have (often multiple) backup bottles of virtually all my favorite fragrances. Don't care for Chergui, never really liked it, but I definitely have two bottles of Ambre Sultan. :-]
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    When Fumerie in Portland announced that they would no longer be carrying the Lutens brand earlier this year due to (bad) reformulations, I knew it was all over. I would definitely not repurchase any Lutens scent without resniffing it now.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Chergui is notorious for multiple reformulations over the years. There was even a very coumarin rich phase of green juice. Have owned four versions over the years and still have three. Interestingly, the original from the bell jar wears rather close to skin.
    Ambre Sultan was very very rich and intense turning it raunchy (positively so) in warmer weather. Today it is thin and bears little interest to me. Maitre Parfumeur‘s Ambre Precieux has until today stayed true to its roots and is my amber of choice.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    I'm not surprised by these two.

    Going off topic slightly, has Un Bois Vanille been reformulated?
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  17. #17
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Chergui is notorious for multiple reformulations over the years. There was even a very coumarin rich phase of green juice. Have owned four versions over the years and still have three. Interestingly, the original from the bell jar wears rather close to skin.
    Then I will need to try it again. Never liked it.
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Quote Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post
    Anybody have a read on the newly rereleased Vetiver Oriental?
    I tried it on a smelling strip and didn't like it, but that was back in the summer and I don't remember much about it now.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Chergui is notorious for multiple reformulations over the years. There was even a very coumarin rich phase of green juice. Have owned four versions over the years and still have three. Interestingly, the original from the bell jar wears rather close to skin.
    Ambre Sultan was very very rich and intense turning it raunchy (positively so) in warmer weather. Today it is thin and bears little interest to me. Maitre Parfumeur‘s Ambre Precieux has until today stayed true to its roots and is my amber of choice.
    Wow. I guess I lucked out when I got my Amber Sultan almost two years ago. This kind of variability makes it hard to trust a repurchase.


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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Ambre Sultan and Chergui reformulated?

    Being on my last drops of Ambre Sultan (which is dear to my life) I ordered a 50ml bottle on fragrancenet, hoping that it'd be the older version (which the picture advertises). They ended up sending a 50ml of the new bottle instead. Smelling them side by side, they're about 85% the same. The strength seems to be around the same ballpark, and the overall essence of the scent is still there. There is one change tho: that sourish pungent quality of the original has been smoothed down a bit. I'm not sure if it was the angelica, or the oregano/bay, or just some resin, but it doesn't have that "magic" weird note that it used to have (which I initially hated, but then came to love). The new version instead seems to have more of a coriander spice essence to it, and the fist 30 mins has a bit of a dirty cedar quality to it. In a way, it's "toned down" in a way that causes it to smell slightly more like l'air du moroccan. Just sprayed it, so we'll see how it compares in regards to longevity. Overall, it's a slightly smoother version of it, which actually is a bit more "wearable," while still holding on to its original feel. I do miss that weird sour note tho - it would always remind me of my birthday.




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