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  1. #1

    Default How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I am not too familiar with it except one time I smelled Chergui and to me it smelled like something a 70 year old would wear.

  2. #2

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Given your impression of Chergui, I'd say it's not a house for you.

    But anyway, Lutens was one of the very first, if not the first, niche house, in the sense of doing perfumes that weren't aimed at the mainstream and had a style of the house. The style was rich, oriental, woody spicy, candied fruits. The older perfumes were gorgeous, rich and unique. In recent years, they jacked up the prices to ridiculous levels, reformulated a lot, and produced a bunch of new stuff that usually doesn't really stand out.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Top shelf stuff. I mean truly top shelf stuff. Not for everybody. Though, has lost its way in the recent years.

    Still, one of the best. Apart from Guerlain, you'd be hard pressed to find any other house with such a collection.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Given your impression of Chergui, I'd say it's not a house for you.

    But anyway, Lutens was one of the very first, if not the first, niche house, in the sense of doing perfumes that weren't aimed at the mainstream and had a style of the house. The style was rich, oriental, woody spicy, candied fruits. The older perfumes were gorgeous, rich and unique. In recent years, they jacked up the prices to ridiculous levels, reformulated a lot, and produced a bunch of new stuff that usually doesn't really stand out.
    cacio, mostly agree with your points, however, have you tried La Fille de Berlin?

    One of the best releases of this decade IMO.

  5. #5

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I own and love Chergui (I'm only 66), Bornéo 1834 and l'Orpheline

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Great house.

  7. #7

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Great artistic scent but Unwearable. Even if scents are good Not much going on since sheldrake left many years ago.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    cacio, mostly agree with your points, however, have you tried La Fille de Berlin?

    One of the best releases of this decade IMO.
    Better than Fille en Aiguilles? I loooooove this one to pieces and stocked up on it when SL discontinued the regular clear glass bottles. I see it's been replaced with the new black bottles on their web site, but holy moly they jacked up the price to $375... for what used to be ~$80 fragrance. How does La Fille de Berlin stack up to this one? The predominant rose in the notes scares me.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Pretty good IMO.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  10. #10
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    One of my favourite houses.

  11. #11

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    cacio, mostly agree with your points, however, have you tried La Fille de Berlin?

    One of the best releases of this decade IMO.
    Thats a bold statement. Is it really that good? What do you like about it? How is the longevity and sillage? What kind of occasion is it for? Is it a compliment getter?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Overall, I think the house is a bit overrated here on basenotes. Too many overly sweet gourmands.

    However, there are some EXCELLENT scents in the catalog as well - Encens et Lavande, Fille en Aiguilles, Five O'Clock Au Gingembre, Un Bois Vanille, and Ambre Sultan are among my favorites in my whole collection.

    I can see how you wouldn't like Chergui. I like it, but rarely wear it.

    Anyway, certainly a house to be explored - especially if you like them a little on the sweet/syrupy side.
    Current Summer Favorites:

    1. Xerjoff - Nio
    2. Tom Ford - Rive d’Ambre
    3. Dior - Homme Cologne 2013
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    6. Montale - Aoud Legacy
    7. Dior - Homme Sport 2008
    8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    9. Ermenegildo Zegna - Sicilian Mandarin
    10. Creed - Pure White Cologne

  13. #13

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Serge Lutens is a very good house, even if not all of the scents are wearable on a daily basis. Some of the scents are very evocative in my opinion and require me to be in a certain mood to wear them.

    As with every house, and depending on your tastes, there will be duds and there will be masterpieces. I think I own 13 bottles, and love most of them.

    The jacking up of prices recently is a disgrace though, but you can find a good chunk of the catalogue at discounters for a very reasonable price.

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    cacio, mostly agree with your points, however, have you tried La Fille de Berlin?

    One of the best releases of this decade IMO.
    *Strokes bottle of Santal Majuscule*

    I disagree on this one...


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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    freewheeling
    I have tried La Fille. A bit too smooth and low key for me. I prefer the bigger statement pieces, like Sarrasins, Jeux de peau, Feminite', etc

    cacio

  15. #15

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    From a personal viewpoint very good to great, considering (albeit subjectively speaking) that especially fragrances like indeed Chergui, but also Ambre Sultan, Chypre Rouge and Feminite du Bois (and certain that there can be more) belong to the definitive, groundbreaking classics among the best not just by this brand alone, but also to have been reviewed, discussed and inventoried within this wonderfully erudite forum/community-also quite versatile at any age, at least most of them so far personally tested
    Currently wearing: 1881 pour Homme by Cerruti

  16. #16
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    Better than Fille en Aiguilles? I loooooove this one to pieces and stocked up on it when SL discontinued the regular clear glass bottles. I see it's been replaced with the new black bottles on their web site, but holy moly they jacked up the price to $375... for what used to be ~$80 fragrance. How does La Fille de Berlin stack up to this one? The predominant rose in the notes scares me.
    Agree with the price jacking. A sad reality.

    La Fille de Berlin is completely different. It's a fresh but deep rose; not a rose soliflore. I think you'd appreciate it, but I'm not sure if you'd like it. Have you tried Malle's Lipstick Rose or ELdO's Rossy de Palma? It's in similar territory (though more rose-y than Rossy de Palma). This does or doesn't matter, but it got a 5 star rating on Bois de Jasmin. I think it's under the radar here on MFD as it leans too femme for most.

    Better than Fille en Aiguilles? I don't know, but it's at least as good.

    Quote Originally Posted by bigtyivier2k2 View Post
    Thats a bold statement. Is it really that good? What do you like about it? How is the longevity and sillage? What kind of occasion is it for? Is it a compliment getter?
    I think so, yes. Very good sillage and longevity - and yes a compliment getter. A female friend of mine loves it, and she does get a ton of compliments wearing it. Again, it's probably too femme for most guys.

    In terms of what I like about it - it's a fresh, minty rose, and yet it has a lot of depth and radiance. I plan to review it sometime. I love rose in perfumes.

    You can read more in this thread about my (and others') thoughts on it.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    *Strokes bottle of Santal Majuscule*

    I disagree on this one...

    I was wearing this the other evening. I thought its dry down reminded me a bit of Jeux de Peau. I think I might get a bottle of the latter.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I haven't tried Chergui, but, from the descriptions and reviews I've read, it's sounds exactly like the kind of thing I would love.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    freewheeling
    I have tried La Fille. A bit too smooth and low key for me. I prefer the bigger statement pieces, like Sarrasins, Jeux de peau, Feminite', etc

    cacio
    I keep forgetting about Sarrasins. It's great. I have a sample that I need to wear (part of the reason it doesn't get worn is that it's a splash).

  20. #20

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    A dead house now, but a star among 90s niche. Neo-oriental brilliance, I own and love Ambre Sultan, Borneo 1834, Douce Amère, Arabie and others. My wife's signature scent is Rousse
    Currently wearing: Le Vetiver by Carven

  21. #21

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I was wearing this the other evening. I thought its dry down reminded me a bit of Jeux de Peau. I think I might get a bottle of the latter.
    I find Jeux de Peau to be nearly too doughy and gourmand for me, hence favouring the dry Santal Majuscule. Have you tried Dent de Lait? Now that is an interesting, fresh yet borderline gourmand scent.

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I keep forgetting about Sarrasins. It's great. I have a sample that I need to wear (part of the reason it doesn't get worn is that it's a splash).
    Sarrasins is the bomb. In my holy triad of jasmine fragrances, the other two being A La Nuit and Nuda. It's absolutely stunning, and just like Fille de Berlin, a fragrance centered around a floral without being a strict soliflore.

  22. #22

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    A dead house now, but a star among 90s niche. Neo-oriental brilliance, I own and love Ambre Sultan, Borneo 1834, Douce Amère, Arabie and others. My wife's signature scent is Rousse
    I would agree with this. Brand is dead like jordache jeans. But for fragheads I’m that era it really hit the spot.

  23. #23

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    A dead house now, but a star among 90s niche. Neo-oriental brilliance, I own and love Ambre Sultan, Borneo 1834, Douce Amère, Arabie and others. My wife's signature scent is Rousse
    Not that dead in my opinion. Santal Majuscule, Bapteme de Feu and Dent de Lait are all incredibly solid fragrances which were released not long ago. I believe the reason they're not being praised on these boards is because the interest in the brand has waned a lot.

    I think this is partly due to the more recent accessible and lower priced fragrances not being as good as they should have been (La Religieuse, L'Orpheline, Eau de Paille), and because there's simply too many exclusive releases (there are three exclusive lines now: Section d'Or, Gratte Ciel, and Paris exclusive bell jars).

    To top that off you have the recently overhauled Collection Noire with price increases which have left a bitter taste in many mouths, including mine. But most of the releases are still incredibly solid, though very overpriced one might argue.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Personally love the house of Serge Lutens.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Some Lutens are considered landmarks in the niche perfumery like Ambre Sultan and Arabie. The fragrances are very varied, but yo will usually need to like oriental and spicy notes to be keen to most of them. It's surely a house I would recommend to anyone really interested in perfumery.
    Currently wearing: Hindu Grass by Nasomatto

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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    but holy moly they jacked up the price to $375... for what used to be ~$80 fragrance.
    Uncle Serge is looking for some money to retire and we have to help him. Staff for castles in the south of France is expensive.
    Currently wearing: Hindu Grass by Nasomatto

  27. #27

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Interesting, but probably not for you.

    Try 5 O'Clock Au Gingembre, which is maybe their most mainstream appealing release and work from there.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Never heard of it. You’d think there’d be numerous threads on here if it was worth your time and attention.
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    Never heard of it. You’d think there’d be numerous threads on here if it was worth your time and attention.
    LOL.
    Once it was the "Creed" of the niche perfumery. Of course considering the fact that Serge hadn't a teenage/adult with teenage mind fanboy base like we see regarding Creed today. And reminding that most Lutens are way more complex and well done, getting far from the niche brands with designer-like appealing.
    Currently wearing: Hindu Grass by Nasomatto

  30. #30
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Serge Lutens was a gate-buster to the world of niche perfumery for me personally. I can’t help but feel disappointed over the house’s current state of affairs, seemingly driven by bean counters rather than artistic visionaries. But in fairness their vintage juices are worth paying a premium for. There are indeed many incredible gems from their older catalogues done in the oriental style. But if OP feels that less than complimentary about Chergui, there are quite a few from the house that are not as syrupy sweet, e.g. L’Orpheline, Iris Silver Mist, Serge Noire, Un Vox Noire, etc.

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