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  1. #31
    Super Member Nj guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Have sampled most of this house. Top quality and there is definitely a Serge DNA. Most are not for me (too much of the sweet and dried fruit notes). However, the three I own : Gris Clair, Five O'Clock Gingembre, and Santal Majascule are among the favorites in my collection
    Currently wearing: Vetiver Dance by Tauer

  2. #32

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Polarizing overall, but if you can find the gems from the house's prime at a reasonable cost, they're worth getting
    Another tip is if you sample something you don't like from them, wait a while and revisit later
    Some of them were off putting to me at first, but I missed smelling them weeks later for some reason

  3. #33

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I'm one of the few who are less than enamored with Chergui. That said, I really love the house in general and have a large selection in my collection. I agree somewhat that recent output is somewhat less than stellar. However, the most recent releases -- in particular the hat trick of Bourreau des Fleurs, L'Innommable, and Le Participe Passé -- are superb and well worth attention.

    Favorite Serge fragrances for me are Muscs Koublaï Khän, Miel de Bois, Mandarine Mandarin, and Arabie.
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman

  4. #34

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    one of the very bests

    but not for compliment seeking designer lover teenagers

  5. #35

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    The new packaging is horrible -- I loved the old 50ml bottles

    I may be wrong but there seems to be a new version of MKK on the market -- I tried it recently and it smells very user friendly and more gorgeous than ever -- it was in a solid black bottle

    They are still a House to be admired imo

  6. #36

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    I may be wrong but there seems to be a new version of MKK on the market -- I tried it recently and it smells very user friendly and more gorgeous than ever -- it was in a solid black bottle
    Where did you try it? Here in the UK?

    I've been stalking my local Selfies for the Gratte Ciel collection (want to get my hands on some Borneo 1834) and nothing...

  7. #37

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Serge Lutens was a gate-buster to the world of niche perfumery for me personally. I can’t help but feel disappointed over the house’s current state of affairs, seemingly driven by bean counters rather than artistic visionaries. But in fairness their vintage juices are worth paying a premium for. There are indeed many incredible gems from their older catalogues done in the oriental style. But if OP feels that less than complimentary about Chergui, there are quite a few from the house that are not as syrupy sweet, e.g. L’Orpheline, Iris Silver Mist, Serge Noire, Un Vox Noire, etc.
    I tend to agree. I haven't smelled all of their recent stuff, but what I have smelled didn't live up to the reputation Lutens has established. And the pricing shenanigans and Paris-exclusivity of some of their standard-bearers leaves a bad taste.

    But that said...Chergui, Borneo 1834, Ambre Sultan, Arabie, Fille en Aguilles, Fumerie Truque, Iris Silver Mist, Muscs Kublai Khan and a few others were absolutely watershed releases in the niche world. There's a lot more in that list than sweet syrup and fruit, and even within that genre, there's a lot of variety in the line.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  8. #38

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    Where did you try it? Here in the UK?

    I've been stalking my local Selfies for the Gratte Ciel collection (want to get my hands on some Borneo 1834) and nothing...

    Yes -- at Liberty -- it was much sweeter than I remember. I think the SL range is a little muddled at the moment. I'd like to buy MKK (or this version) again but not if it is over £300.

  9. #39
    Basenotes Junkie SexySmells's Avatar
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Lutens has some very good releases and some are...let's say.....meh.

    That's expected from any house that put out so many fragrances years ago. Personally, more than a few had a hair-spray accord on me which I didn't care for, but the ones I liked were very good.

    What made me stay away from acquiring Lutens, like I did some other houses, were the difficulty of obtaining the ones I did like and the price gouging because of that difficulty.

    If your a normal stateside customer of fragrances, you have to jump through hoops to get certain releases. Some were scarcely available only in bell jars which drove the prices up.

    Again, I like Lutens overall......but I'm not paying out the nose for the few I'd like to have in my wardrobe. There's plenty of other houses more available and just as good.....if not better.
    Currently wearing: Antico Caruso by Profumum

  10. #40
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by cameron View Post
    Great artistic scent but Unwearable. Even if scents are good Not much going on since sheldrake left many years ago.
    Sheldrake did a few for Serge Lutens as recently as 2014-15. L'Orpheline, La Religieuse, L'Incendiaire. And Le Fille de Berlin in 2013. He's sort of been of "on loan" as a free agent from Chanel during those years. And Quest International before that.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Bogart by Jacques Bogart

  11. #41

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I’ve tried a handful and only found Ambre Sultan worth buying. A reference amber.

    That said, always wished I got to try Borneo 1834 when it was reasonably priced. Given the notes and comparisons I’m sure I would’ve bought it!

  12. #42

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    Yes -- at Liberty -- it was much sweeter than I remember. I think the SL range is a little muddled at the moment. I'd like to buy MKK (or this version) again but not if it is over £300.
    Cheers for the swift response mate. Didn't expect Liberty to get the range. But then, Selfridges has Section d'Or. Maybe Uncle Serge is spreading the love / the range around different stores.

    Hmm. To be fair I don't know whether a change to MKK is a good or bad thing as a lot of people find it challenging to say the least. My version (50ml spray bottle, Palais Royal logo) smells like sweaty armpits if sweaty armpits were sexy, if you know what I mean.

  13. #43
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Much of the international line suffers from thin, uninteresting bases.

  14. #44

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    i respect Serge Lutens fragrances ... they are very creative and daring ... but ultimately i've never wanted to wear them over and over and over. they overstep the line to unwearable, to me.

  15. #45
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    The 4 best imho from this house are all earlier releases; while Filles de Berlin was good, it does not stack up well to these 3:

    Muscs Koublai Khan
    Fumerie Turque
    Filles en Aiguilles
    Cuir Mauresque

    I also like Borneo 1834...

    I don't know how reformulations / current batches are for the above 4, but if you get the original versions, go for it...

  16. #46

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    The 4 best imho from this house are all earlier releases; while Filles de Berlin was good, it does not stack up well to these 3:

    Muscs Koublai Khan
    Fumerie Turque
    Filles en Aiguilles
    Cuir Mauresque

    I also like Borneo 1834...

    I don't know how reformulations / current batches are for the above 4, but if you get the original versions, go for it...
    Hi Arun,

    Not a fan of Ambre Sultan?

  17. #47
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Used to really love these from Serge:

    Fumerie Turque, Iris Silver Mist, Muscs Kublai Khan, Rose de Nuit, De Profundis

    But that was before each of them was reformulated.
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

  18. #48

    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Finnster View Post
    i respect Serge Lutens fragrances ... they are very creative and daring ... but ultimately i've never wanted to wear them over and over and over. they overstep the line to unwearable, to me.
    Thank you for speaking the truth.

  19. #49
    Basenotes Junkie Foamywax's Avatar
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    Feminite du Bois for me is one of the best fragrances ever made..
    I also love Borneo, Rahat Loukoum, muscs koublai khan and Chergui..
    They used to give the wax samples for free but no more there is a fee now. But it's still worth it.

  20. #50
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    When I explored the house for the first many years ago overall it was fairy good. I would say the majority of the fragrances were a bit harder to wear that is finding the right occasion to wear them. In recent years the house had some substantial setbacks. I would suggest seeking out older bottles if possible.
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  21. #51
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    Default Re: How is the house of Serge Lutens?

    I agree with most of the sentiments here. Most of the house I find boring, but they have a few really good ones. The problem is the policy of the house, making the good fragrances scares and hard to find. The crazy new prices are also driving me up the wall. In all I find it best to stay away from the house these days.

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