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  1. #1

    Default EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Hi all,
    Thanks for all the formulas and discussions. I have learned so much.
    Would like to share some of my essential oil blends, please feel free to add some suggestions and improvements! I don't really know what these true classics smell like, nor have I any aroma chemicals yet.

    Fougere #1 in 15ml alcool
    .14 coumarin crystal
    .08 oakmoss absolute
    .16 vetiver
    .20 lavender a.
    .02 geranium
    .16 bergamot

    Fougere 2 in 12 g alcool
    .14 coumarin crystal
    .08 oakmoss absolute
    .14 vetiver
    .30 lavender a.
    .03 geranium
    .07 siam benzoin resin piece
    .07 labdanum
    .10 black agar fragrance oil

    Chypre - drops
    1.5 labdanum
    3 oakmoss absolute
    1 pressed lime
    3 bergamot

    Cologne #1 - drops
    16 scicilian lemon
    7 bergamot
    4 neroli
    .5 pressed lime
    .5 petitgrain

    Cologne #2 - drops
    (after j.m. farina)
    4 bergamot
    1.5 lemon
    3 neroli
    3 rosemary
    .5 cinnamon leaf (originally clove)
    .5 lavender a.

    - for the colognes initially made a rosemary water with rosemary oleoresin extract mixed in the alcohol but then changed it to plain rosemary oil (now brand, which i use for my scalp treatments, would prefer spanish but i'm out)

    I am still learning these blends and would like to learn how to make these bases into a perfume, specially the fougeres and the chypre but don't really know how to blend other unrelated oils to these basic structures. I would also like to improve on my cologne formulas. Currently have a complicated (29 oil) cologne waiting for evaluation (just made it)

    Any suggestions do let me know, have essential oils, so few fragrance oils and accords, and one a.c. myraldyl acetate (for soap) and can list them if anyone would like to know.

    I'm so grateful to find such nice formulas in the forums and hope mine can also inspire!

  2. #2
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by nicotiro View Post
    Hi all,
    Thanks for all the formulas and discussions. I have learned so much.
    Would like to share some of my essential oil blends, please feel free to add some suggestions and improvements! I don't really know what these true classics smell like, nor have I any aroma chemicals yet.

    Fougere #1 in 15ml alcool
    .14 coumarin crystal
    .08 oakmoss absolute
    .16 vetiver
    .20 lavender a.
    .02 geranium
    .16 bergamot

    Fougere 2 in 12 g alcool
    .14 coumarin crystal
    .08 oakmoss absolute
    .14 vetiver
    .30 lavender a.
    .03 geranium
    .07 siam benzoin resin piece
    .07 labdanum
    .10 black agar fragrance oil

    Chypre - drops
    1.5 labdanum
    3 oakmoss absolute
    1 pressed lime
    3 bergamot

    Cologne #1 - drops
    16 scicilian lemon
    7 bergamot
    4 neroli
    .5 pressed lime
    .5 petitgrain

    Cologne #2 - drops
    (after j.m. farina)
    4 bergamot
    1.5 lemon
    3 neroli
    3 rosemary
    .5 cinnamon leaf (originally clove)
    .5 lavender a.

    - for the colognes initially made a rosemary water with rosemary oleoresin extract mixed in the alcohol but then changed it to plain rosemary oil (now brand, which i use for my scalp treatments, would prefer spanish but i'm out)

    I am still learning these blends and would like to learn how to make these bases into a perfume, specially the fougeres and the chypre but don't really know how to blend other unrelated oils to these basic structures. I would also like to improve on my cologne formulas. Currently have a complicated (29 oil) cologne waiting for evaluation (just made it)

    Any suggestions do let me know, have essential oils, so few fragrance oils and accords, and one a.c. myraldyl acetate (for soap) and can list them if anyone would like to know.

    I'm so grateful to find such nice formulas in the forums and hope mine can also inspire!
    - your formulas look ok.
    - Try them at various dilutions, at 5% 10% 20% etc.
    - Buy a scale and do things by weight. not drops.

    - you could try incorporating a small, small amount of rose and jasmine in your chypre
    - florals are expensive e.o. just purchase 5% jasmine and rose e.o.

    - *chypre probably does need a little bit of florals
    - if you want to use JUST e.o. and need some "powder effect" to your chypre - use a TINY amount of carrot seed essential oil
    - You might want to incorporate a SMALL small amount of patchouli oil, and ylang ylang oil into your chypre too.


    - also I would purchase/use clary sage and vanillin
    - a tiny amount of vanillin in nearly all your formulas would make nice
    - a tiny amount of clary sage could be nice in nearly all your above formulas would also be nice
    * I would not use "fragrance oil," - because you don't know whats in it...

    If you use Bergamot, I suggest Bag-Free Bergamot because it is sharper,
    clearer and more powerful and fresh than regular bergamot...At least in my opinion it certainly is.

    Be extra careful with the POWERFUL elements below;
    - pettigrain
    - vetiver
    - neroli
    - rosemary
    They are all significantly more powerful than other materials, you need only small amounts of them
    “Candy is full of taste. But so is shit, because taste is full of smell.”
    - Jarod Kintz, This Book Has No Title

  3. #3

    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Not sure about the ylang ylang. have extra and regular, will consider at below .5, dont have patchouli, was considering trying fermenich's clearwood because i dont like that mouldy scent but want to use a patchouli like scent. have some single florals and the florals from woolzies. their "rose", "jasmin" they are partial blends, very good ones though.

    I dont have vanillin, not sure if I like vanilla smell at all, coumarin and benzoin is about all I have as a vanilla like scent in my blends.
    bought woolzies vanilla in sunflower oil and it must be rancid cos it smells like medicine. I will try to make my own vanilla tincture in the future if i find a suitable pod. can you link me a good vanilla natural compound?

    also have clary sage and will consider adding it to the chypre and fougere, its in my long cologne formula.

    The bergamot... is just regular.

    Thanks for your comments and suggestions. Will try the carrot seed (have forgotten about it actually)

    About the agar- the fragrance oil is givcos black agar 215, it smells very good, the sds is online, as a base note for that fougere its dry down is super and soft, complete. would like to use real agar but its very expensive.

    The formulas in drops are the proportions. A drop is .01 -.03 gram= depending on weight of oil and size of drop. Prescribing recipes to clients need to be in drops so they can make the recipe at home.
    I have a scale, the fougere formulas are in grams, my scale only goes down to .01 though.

    Considering upping the geranium in a new fougere up to .06. Will try the chypre and fougere with neroli, rose and jasmin.

    cheers to novice perfumery on this rainy friday night

  4. #4
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Trust me, SCALES are the way to go.
    Why? Because 1 drop of benzoin resin may weigh 3x or 4x as much as 1 drop of lemon oil.


    Clear wood should be a good choice.
    Personally, I love patchouli. And I love John Steele`s aged Patchouli MOST :-)
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...indonesia.aspx


    Givcos black agar 215 is not a "fragrance oil."
    Givcos black agar 215 is actually a professionally made, synthetic accord.
    It`s well crafted and from a reputable, large company. Many years from now, you will likely be able to order this exact same product.
    Givco does their homework, so if they sell an accord they call "agar," then I can assure you...
    it ACTUALLY DOES smell like at least 1 type of real agar wood. Agar wood is hard to replicate, but if anyone can replicate the smell of agar wood...then large companies like Givco can do it!


    "Fragrance oils," on the other hand - are often cheap accords, and usually something of a mystery.
    You never know whats really in them. The problem with fragrance oils isn`t their price...it`s that because you don't know what in them,
    and because they are not always made by large companies, they may change from batch to batch = zero dependability.

    That said, SOME fragrance oils are MUCH better than others.
    NOT ALL ARE BAD. And if you LIKE a certain fragrance oil, be sure to stock up on it...
    because you may never get it again in the future. I believe perfumers apprentice sells decent quality fragrance oils.
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...ance-oils.aspx

    Personally, As amateur perfumers, as beginners...
    I think its totally fine to play with and memorize fragrance oils. Some of them really do smell wonderful.


    If you want to order QUALITY natural materials I suggest Eden Botanics.
    They have REAL vanilla. VERY expensive.
    https://www.edenbotanicals.com


    If you want decent materials, synthetic and natural at a cheap price, I fairly decent price, try Perfumers Apprentice.
    Perfumers Apprentice has vanillin, ethyl vanillin, maltol etc. They also sell a vanilla accord that IS NOT BAD!
    http://www.perfumersapprentice.com

    Or perfume supply house.
    Perfume Supply house is run by Christine - she's friendly, and often on this forum.
    https://perfumersupplyhouse.com

    If you are in Canada
    You can get odd, unique and somewhat rare essential oils from Rocket Robin
    https://www.rocketrobin.ca
    “Candy is full of taste. But so is shit, because taste is full of smell.”
    - Jarod Kintz, This Book Has No Title

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Simple Fougère

    100 Lavender
    140 Geranium
    100 Vetiver
    50 Amyl salicylate
    50 Coumarin
    40 Cananga
    10 Patchouli

    Chypre perfume (Chanel No. 22 type)
    50 Oakmoss
    350 Bergamot
    45 Rose Otto Bulgarian
    55 Rose synthetic
    70 Orange oil c.p.
    65 Sandalwood E.I.
    30 patchouli
    25 methy ionone
    25 Orris concrete
    25 Labdanum Ciste resinoid 70 Musk ambrette
    40 Amber synthetic
    40 Styrax resinoid
    35 Vanilla resinoid
    45 Tonka bean (or coumarin)
    20 Opoponax resinoid

    From one of Poucher`s Books (forget which ones)
    M
    “Candy is full of taste. But so is shit, because taste is full of smell.”
    - Jarod Kintz, This Book Has No Title

  6. #6

    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    Simple Fougère

    100 Lavender
    140 Geranium
    100 Vetiver
    50 Amyl salicylate
    50 Coumarin
    40 Cananga
    10 Patchouli

    Chypre perfume (Chanel No. 22 type)
    50 Oakmoss
    350 Bergamot
    45 Rose Otto Bulgarian
    55 Rose synthetic
    70 Orange oil c.p.
    65 Sandalwood E.I.
    30 patchouli
    25 methy ionone
    25 Orris concrete
    25 Labdanum Ciste resinoid 70 Musk ambrette
    40 Amber synthetic
    40 Styrax resinoid
    35 Vanilla resinoid
    45 Tonka bean (or coumarin)
    20 Opoponax resinoid

    From one of Poucher`s Books (forget which ones)
    M
    Thanks for the notes and recipe!
    I wrote one down last night, but my geranium was still less than half of my lavender. Will try this ratio (simple fougere)

    John Steels aged patchouli does seem like a good idea. Also want to try his lavender flowers.

    For the inci when labeling, these specialty bases/accords are considered "parfum" but you are right, how can i say fragrance oil when I know these synthetics are the highest quality and labeling them as fragrance oil lessens their label appeal.

    Also thanks for the links. Will have to save up for that real vanilla then ;D Ive used botanic planet for oils, they have a great selection of absolutes at good prices and are located in brampton. just dont buy their galbanum because it smells like turpentine and it ruined my calming blend

    I also kind of want to imitate the chanel 22 chypre. thanks for the recipe!

  7. #7

    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    How reliable is rocketrobin? Just checked them out and their prices on a few items seams questionably low! If you can confirm that they offer quality and real naturals, then I have some shopping to do. Sorry to sideline this thread a bit.

  8. #8

    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by BRT View Post
    How reliable is rocketrobin? Just checked them out and their prices on a few items seams questionably low! If you can confirm that they offer quality and real naturals, then I have some shopping to do. Sorry to sideline this thread a bit.
    youre not. i like canadian supplier gossip as much as the next canadian. let me know how your order turns out, would like to try them as well.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Sorry guys,
    have not ordered from Rocket Robin. Friend has, says its ok.
    Still, I can not speak 100%

    I just noticed they have a large variety of essential oils, some pretty rare.
    Matt
    “Candy is full of taste. But so is shit, because taste is full of smell.”
    - Jarod Kintz, This Book Has No Title

  10. #10
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Default Re: EO Perfume blends - Fougere, Chypre, & Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by nicotiro View Post
    Thanks for the notes and recipe!
    I wrote one down last night, but my geranium was still less than half of my lavender. Will try this ratio (simple fougere)

    John Steels aged patchouli does seem like a good idea. Also want to try his lavender flowers.

    For the inci when labeling, these specialty bases/accords are considered "parfum" but you are right, how can i say fragrance oil when I know these synthetics are the highest quality and labeling them as fragrance oil lessens their label appeal.

    Also thanks for the links. Will have to save up for that real vanilla then ;D Ive used botanic planet for oils, they have a great selection of absolutes at good prices and are located in brampton. just dont buy their galbanum because it smells like turpentine and it ruined my calming blend

    I also kind of want to imitate the chanel 22 chypre. thanks for the recipe!

    Try Galbanum at 5% or maybe even 2%.
    It CAN BE very powerful stuff. Not always, but it can be.
    M
    “Candy is full of taste. But so is shit, because taste is full of smell.”
    - Jarod Kintz, This Book Has No Title

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