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  1. #1

    Default Modern Chypres Under $50?

    I'm really on a kick with oakmoss, pine, fir, and notes of such. Polo, Esencia are some classics, Itasca more modernized but also too expensive to buy another bottle of right now. I'm looking for something similar, doesn't have to be designer, if it's something niche that can be found at a good price. I would like to keep it under 50 though. Please feel free to look through my wardrobe, before suggesting something that I may already have.

    Please don't recommend stuff like Fille en Aiguilles.. I know it has some of those notes.. but it's not what I'm looking for. I want something on the dryer side, woody, very green but not very herbal, try to avoid thing with herbal notes. Mint is ok, but I don't want something sweet. Use Polo as a reference, as I think it's one of the most, if not the most ideal chypre ever made.

    May not be able to respond to recommendations, but i assure you, all will be looked at, and appreciated.
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  2. #2

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme
    Van Cleef & Arpels Tsar
    Jacques Bogart Bogart
    Antonio Puig Quorum
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  3. #3

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Patrick
    Burberry London
    Halston Z-14
    Knize Ten (30ml)
    Aramis
    Aramis 900
    Devin
    Vermeil pour Homme
    Currently wearing: Icon Intense by Police

  4. #4

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    keyword: modern

    i already own burberry london and patrick

    i’ve tried all the other recommendations and all smell dated
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  5. #5

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Montana pour Homme
    Boucheron pour Homme
    Kiton Men

    Eau Sauvage Parfum can sometimes be had for around that price with discount codes or on eBay..

    Is Terre d'Hermes considered to be a chypre?

    Also read somewhere that David Beckham Classic Blue is supposed to be a modern chypre...

    David Beckham Classic Blue:
    Top Notes: Pineapple, Grapefruit, Violet leaf
    Heart Notes: Geranium, Clary sage, Apple
    Base notes: Cashmeran, Patchouli, Moss
    Last edited by morrison74; 19th November 2018 at 02:51 AM.
    MY UK SPLITS (2018): NICHE / DESIGNER

  6. #6

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Perhaps also Azzaro pour Homme 2013 Summer Edition, Cerruti 1881 (both the regular one and the Edition Blanche version), Lalique pour Homme EDP and, although more in the fougere and/or spicy direction, both Sartorial and Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's, Ginepro Nero by L'Erbolario, Hermes Rocabar could also be worth at least a few (re) testings
    Currently wearing: 1881 pour Homme by Cerruti

  7. #7

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Considering you want a decent amount of oakmoss and/or piney elements, what makes the other recommendations smell dated? Is there a common element?
    Currently wearing: Walimah by Areej le Doré

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Cerruti 1881 (the Edition Blanche version)
    Good suggestion.
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Homme de Gres is what you're looking for.
    Deep woody citrus chypre. 75ml around $40.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    What about the Rogue Pefumery's Chypre Siam? He uses as much oakmoss as he thinks is necessary, since he doesn't comply with IFRA (and he's a BN member):

    https://www.etsy.com/listing/5354820..._listing_top-2

    Not sure what a modern chypre is, as from what I've encountered that generally means "not really a chypre at all."
    Last edited by Bigsly; 18th November 2018 at 11:42 PM.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Lush's The President's Hat was going to be my recommendation, but just seen how much it costs in the States compared to here ($70 to £35 for 30ml). Worth a sniff if you can find it on eBay for cheaper. A Cistus-heavy scent with oak moss and patchouli.
    Currently wearing: Rentless by Lush

  12. #12

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaMav View Post
    Homme de Gres is what you're looking for.
    Deep woody citrus chypre. 75ml around $40.
    Solid suggestion

    From the sounds of it, you may be better off targeting Fougeres.

    Basile Uomo is a well done soapy green that can be found reasonably.
    Sartorial by Pengaligon’s on discount sites is usually priced in the $60 range and quite good.
    Duc de Vervins by Houbigant and Duc De Vervins L’Extreme both fit the bill

    These aren’t necessarily “modern” but they’re all well done.

    Given your criteria, I probably go with DDV L’Extreme
    I have found the paradox, that if you love until it hurts, there can be no more hurt, only more love.

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  13. #13

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Cologneist View Post
    i’ve tried all the other recommendations and all smell dated
    ...you cannot have the world for under $ 50,=

    https://www.fragrantica.nl/geurfamilies/chypre.html
    Last edited by Trauerkraut; 19th November 2018 at 10:58 AM.
    Currently wearing: Icon Intense by Police

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    You might be searching for a unicorn here. I’m stumped.

    Oakmoss = vintage chypre

    Modern = oakmoss-free

    Oakmoss-free = not a true chypre


    So ‘modern chypre’ sounds like an oxymoron, at least to me. Lol. Never encountered an ‘oakmossy’ scent that smells ‘modern’. They say 31 rue Cambon is a modern chypre. Not to me. Oakmoss substitutes have yet to be found. Vetiver’s not an adequate replacement.

    For $50 you probably stand a better chance with DIY stuff.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chypre

    Under style section. That pretty much sums it up.

    I'm not too keen on most of the recommendations. They are not what I'm looking for. Homme de Gres sounds pretty good, I will definitely look into that one. But, coming from the mid 90s, I am not sure how it may smell.

    Again though, as I said.. use Polo (current formulation) as a reference. I figures it would be the easiest way to help me in the right direction, since it's a fragrance that most people on this forum have smelled at some point.
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  16. #16

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    "Modern" chypres that use a combo of low-atra oakmoss, vetiveryl acetate and patchoulol might fit the bill. But it'll be hard to find some under $50 unless its a decant, the treated oakmoss typically costs more to buy from producers than unadulterated oakmoss absolute, so perfumes containing this would be on the pricier side. Depending on what the perfume has for its powdery effect, it might smell dated. If ionones or methyl ionones are used in a generous amount then it might smell very old world to you, ditto in the case of certain musks or specialty bases.
    Currently wearing: Walimah by Areej le Doré

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Roger & Gallet L'Homme - bit of mint, ylang-ylang and chypre notes all the way to dry down.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    can't name a good and really modern smelling chypre for <50$.

    but this is good, maybe you can find a decant or something: Heeley - Chypre 21
    Currently wearing: Vanille Tonka by Nicolaï

  19. #19

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Cologneist View Post
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chypre

    Under style section. That pretty much sums it up.

    I'm not too keen on most of the recommendations. They are not what I'm looking for. Homme de Gres sounds pretty good, I will definitely look into that one. But, coming from the mid 90s, I am not sure how it may smell.

    Again though, as I said.. use Polo (current formulation) as a reference. I figures it would be the easiest way to help me in the right direction, since it's a fragrance that most people on this forum have smelled at some point.
    The strongest note to the drydown in Homme de Gres is sandalwood, so I'm not sure if you would perceive it as a chypre, but rather as a wood-dominant scent.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    The strongest note to the drydown in Homme de Gres is sandalwood, so I'm not sure if you would perceive it as a chypre, but rather as a wood-dominant scent.
    True.. I dunno, can't find samples of it either, so may rule this one out.

    The recommendation for Chypre 21 looks good. I love everything Heeley I've tried so far.

    I don't see this post going anywhere so I'm just gonna do more research. I'm getting recommendations for old stuff that people probably love themselves, instead of looking at what I'm looking for. So with all do respect, thanks, but no thanks.

    If you have any recommendations you think you know, it's probably one of those hidden gem fragrances out there. For example I would say Swiss Army Forest could be the one, but the dry down is such a stinker that it ruins it for me.

    To clarify, it doesn't have to contain real oakmoss.. so stop recommending stuff from the 70s and 80s when oakmoss was in its prime. There's an aroma chemical that mimics oakmoss and does a pretty good job at it, I forgot what it's called

    I know I'll get backlash now.. saying these are fougere's and not chypres.. but to each their own.. they are half and half to me.. stuff like Itasca, Fou d'Absinthe, Bottega Venetta.

    I think I'm gonna look into some of these more obscure houses like Cerruti, Armand Basi, Cavali.. etc.. I feel like the answer is in one of these.

    BTW (and I know people will disagree, saying it's crap) Porsche Design Essence is a modern chypre to me.. it take those green earthy elements and mixes them in a fresher way, but still maintains the chypre core. I know it's light, and may not be a chypre to the guys who wore Quorum and such.. but not everyone wants to smell like that.
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  21. #21

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Cologneist View Post
    True.. I dunno, can't find samples of it either, so may rule this one out.

    The recommendation for Chypre 21 looks good. I love everything Heeley I've tried so far.

    I don't see this post going anywhere so I'm just gonna do more research. I'm getting recommendations for old stuff that people probably love themselves, instead of looking at what I'm looking for. So with all do respect, thanks, but no thanks.

    If you have any recommendations you think you know, it's probably one of those hidden gem fragrances out there. For example I would say Swiss Army Forest could be the one, but the dry down is such a stinker that it ruins it for me.

    To clarify, it doesn't have to contain real oakmoss.. so stop recommending stuff from the 70s and 80s when oakmoss was in its prime. There's an aroma chemical that mimics oakmoss and does a pretty good job at it, I forgot what it's called

    I know I'll get backlash now.. saying these are fougere's and not chypres.. but to each their own.. they are half and half to me.. stuff like Itasca, Fou d'Absinthe, Bottega Venetta.

    I think I'm gonna look into some of these more obscure houses like Cerruti, Armand Basi, Cavali.. etc.. I feel like the answer is in one of these.

    BTW (and I know people will disagree, saying it's crap) Porsche Design Essence is a modern chypre to me.. it take those green earthy elements and mixes them in a fresher way, but still maintains the chypre core. I know it's light, and may not be a chypre to the guys who wore Quorum and such.. but not everyone wants to smell like that.
    LOL. I wasn't the one who suggested the "old stuff." Instead, I mentioned that one of those might not work for you. I don't know what a "modern chypre" is so I mentioned Chyrpe Siam, because with that you know it won't be "spoiled" or whatever, unlike the older ones that might be perceived that way by some people. To me, without the oakmoss "bite" there is no chypre, so what could a non-oakmoss chypre be like? Is there a fougere without lavender?

  22. #22

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta

  23. #23
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    If you were Captain Ahab, this might be your white whale. There are many chypre-like scents in modern times, but without oakmoss, the definitive chypre accord is mostly dead. Still, Oscar de la Renta Gentleman (2016) is pretty close.
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  24. #24

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    The most difficult Chypre elements to emulate in modern types would be a rich bergamot and enough spices/ eugenol materials
    Currently wearing: Walimah by Areej le Doré

  25. #25

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    If you were Captain Ahab, this might be your white whale. There are many chypre-like scents in modern times, but without oakmoss, the definitive chypre accord is mostly dead. Still, Oscar de la Renta Gentleman (2016) is pretty close.
    Looks interesting. Seen this one before but never tried it. Bottle is really corny to me. I see Fragrantica compares it to Desire Black? I loved the opening of Desire Black but the dry down made me get rid of my bottle.

    Thank you for the recommendation, I will look into it.
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  26. #26

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    LOL. I wasn't the one who suggested the "old stuff." Instead, I mentioned that one of those might not work for you. I don't know what a "modern chypre" is so I mentioned Chyrpe Siam, because with that you know it won't be "spoiled" or whatever, unlike the older ones that might be perceived that way by some people. To me, without the oakmoss "bite" there is no chypre, so what could a non-oakmoss chypre be like? Is there a fougere without lavender?
    Sorry that wasn't all directed to you, just the first line.
    "God may exist, but science can explain the universe without the need for a creator." -Stephen Hawking

  27. #27

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    As Diamondflame mentioned, I don't think there is such thing as a modern chypre due to IFRA restrictions and the like on oakmoss. As you probably already know from your research, a chypre will more or less usually have bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss in it.

    That being said, some interesting new interpretations of chypres are Norne by Slumberhouse, and Everlasting by The Zoo. Both of those are a little out of your budget though. Most fragrances that are below 50$ these days don't follow the chypre formula IMO, and will smell typically like fresh fougeres with lots of tonka (the flavor of the month / year, if you ask me). French Lover by Frederic Malle is another one that comes to mind, but prices are in the 150$+ range.

    Sorry I couldn't provide anything under the 50$ range.

    Another relevant thread:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/396925-Modern-chypres
    Currently wearing: L'Homme de Coeur by Divine

  28. #28

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    whats that -- about £35?

    a tough ask --

    Banana Republic?

  29. #29

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    As others have said, price is going to be a major limiting factor here. Real oakmoss = cyphre, and unforuntaely it's pretty much used by indies at this point. Or, vintage. Which isn't modern.

    So, how much do you want to flex on price?

    I'm thinking of Charenton Macerations Christopher Street. Or Papillon Dryad.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  30. #30

    Default Re: Modern Chypres Under $50?

    Also adding Khaliji by Al Rehab - only apparently a Middle Eastern fragrance, in fact much closer to a 70-80s powerhouse chypre, like a more exotic (and to make matters better, in fact significantly improved) not dissimilar to a more exotic and less IFRA-restricted take on classics like vintage Polo Green, vintage Paco Rabanne, vintage Givenchy Gentleman, Duc de Vervins and Duc de Vervis L'Extreme, vintage Drakkar even before the more famous Noir flanker along with Horizon by the same house, as well a few Cartier male classics including yet not limited to vintage Santos and Declaration, but with more leathery, also more grassy and mossy side to it- all this and more within a both classic but unexpectedly modern, daring scent, quite uncommon within the current fragrance trends and/or outputs
    Currently wearing: 1881 pour Homme by Cerruti




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