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  1. #1
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    Default Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I'm about to purchase the 2018 Turen /Sanchez Perfume Guide. Anyone have any opinions on this new 2018 guide? I love the 2008 A-Z.
    Currently wearing: Himalaya by Creed

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    As good as the AZ guide, it covers a large number of new releases since then. Worth it for me.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    For some reason, I don't want it

    I'll stick with my dog-eared first version

  4. #4

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Perfumes The Guide (2018) by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez...still not available in the Netherlands as a paperback...??

  5. #5

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I haven't quite felt the need to purchase it yet. For some reason, I've found my way through the 2008 edition, which I like to read again and again. Especially when taking into account that it contains all of my favorite fragrances. However, I may reconsider in the future.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book



    Tania Sanchez & Luca Turin
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Black by Bulgari

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    A very good read.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I wrote about this in a couple of posts on my blog. To sum it up, I like the introductory chapters better, but some claims don't make sense, such as the death of celebuscents. There are issues with that claim, one being you need to cite statistics for a number of criteria, and of course it may just be a temporary dip in sales, but the key question for me is, are they worthy considering? I've now found so many of these at great prices (that I enjoy, of course) that I have no idea why an "expert" would "talk smack" about them. Sure, I'm not going to go around thinking something like, "wow, I'm wearing celebrity X's scent so that makes me special," but who does? Teenagers? Let them have that little special feeling if it helps them psychologically! And I don't think they address "clones" at all; for example, I'd want to know how "good" the clones are if I were a newbie.

    Then come the reviews. Many are of scents I've never heard of and wouldn't buy due to the prices, but I would try to get a sample of a few if the opportunity arose. However, there are too many that sound like they might be okay, but nothing special, based upon the reviews one can find from other sources, so it's just too much effort, time, etc., not to mention money. If I were a billionaire I'd have a personal assistant buy all the niche samples available, spray them on a card, and have him/her bring me a new card every ten minutes or so, but otherwise, I've lost almost all interest, as these tend to be far too "chemical" for my preferences or even ability to tolerate them.

    And then there's the vintage issue. These were mostly dismissed in the 2008 Guide as being too heavy, outdated, Neanderthal, or whatever, but now we're told they are too difficult to obtain, expensive, or whatever. Those who listened to me back then and stocked up on vintage would not have that problem now! And you'd be able to sell on ebay at the moment for wildly inflated prices. Consistent with the 2008 Guide, though, more than a few reviews leave a lot to be desired, in terms of being provided with a sense of what the fragrance smells like (top notes and drydown). Overall, for me, their approach is no longer of especial interest, and I do not "trust" their reviews, when they are actually reviews, in terms of my preferences. However, as just another review on BN. Fragrantica, this or that blog, etc., there's certainly nothing wrong with getting yet another perspective, if you have the time and motivation.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Hmmm @Bigsly.
    Its the Cheapos that are the chemical nightmares..
    Don't forget, anything that is cheap - is cheap for a reason.
    But, whatever tickles your boat at the end of the day ey.
    Currently wearing: Tango by Masque

  10. #10

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    good book. just ignore sanchez's reviews...

  11. #11

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    There's already a thread with lots of discussion on the book here.
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
    Big list of niche splits.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  12. #12

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by MELVCMS01 View Post
    Hmmm @Bigsly.
    Its the Cheapos that are the chemical nightmares..
    Don't forget, anything that is cheap - is cheap for a reason.
    But, whatever tickles your boat at the end of the day ey.
    A common misconception, at least in 2018, IMO.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Covers too many very small/artisanal releases and largely passes over many mainstream designer releases, in my opinion. I understand this format has its pros as well as its cons, but considering my taste sits around more established niche brands and mainstream designers, it's not very useful for me, or enjoyable to read since I don't know what they're referring to most of the time. I also have very different taste, though I agree with them sometimes.

    But as others have said, the writing's good. Turin is clever and concise as always, so it's fun to flip through from time to time.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Enjoy!
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  15. #15

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    The writing is always excellent, and worth it for that. It impresses me how they use metaphor and analogy in explaining scent and I find it very entertaining. I think many of the five star scents may be good, but not that good, for most people who won't share their tastes.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I wrote about this in a couple of posts on my blog. To sum it up, I like the introductory chapters better, but some claims don't make sense, such as the death of celebuscents. There are issues with that claim, one being you need to cite statistics for a number of criteria, and of course it may just be a temporary dip in sales, but the key question for me is, are they worthy considering? I've now found so many of these at great prices (that I enjoy, of course) that I have no idea why an "expert" would "talk smack" about them. Sure, I'm not going to go around thinking something like, "wow, I'm wearing celebrity X's scent so that makes me special," but who does? Teenagers? Let them have that little special feeling if it helps them psychologically! And I don't think they address "clones" at all; for example, I'd want to know how "good" the clones are if I were a newbie.
    That's been pretty well documented. Celebrity scents peaked over a decade ago and have declined every year since. The one exception might be with the Kardashians, as everything they seem to touch turns to gold, with quality not really a consideration for their brand. But for the rest of them (Paris Hilton, Justin Bieber, Madonna, Katy Perry, Nicki Minaj, JLo, Jennifer Aniston, Christina Aguilera, Beyonce, etc etc), you're more likely than not to see their older wares in the bargain bins.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Black by Bulgari

  17. #17

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    That's been pretty well documented. Celebrity scents peaked over a decade ago and have declined every year since. The one exception might be with the Kardashians, as everything they seem to touch turns to gold, with quality not really a consideration for their brand. But for the rest of them (Paris Hilton, Justin Bieber, Madonna, Katy Perry, Nicki Minaj, JLo, Jennifer Aniston, Christina Aguilera, Beyonce, etc etc), you're more likely than not to see their older wares in the bargain bins.
    Right, I wouldn't doubt it, but we aren't told about the statistics - I guess we're supposed to assume their expertise on all matters of the fragrance industry (I did a quick search but could not find relevant statistics for the claim). However, the sales of celebuscents still might tower over the other categories, and I think most readers would want to know that. The most important thing for most readers of BN (I'd guess) is whether there are great deals to be found in those "bargain bins," and in my limited experience I'd say definitely. I bought 100 ml bottle of Wild Orchid by Beyonce for under $4 total the other day, and found it to be rotation worthy, but there are a bunch of other examples (Phoenix was another I picked up for next to nothing and enjoy it more than nearly all recent niche I've tried or own bottles of, mostly due to swaps). So, the question for LT and TS is, shouldn't you give us some idea of who you assume your readers are? If they are "bargain hunters," for example, then the "dissing" of celebuscents makes no sense, AFAICT.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by Buysblind View Post
    Covers too many very small/artisanal releases and largely passes over many mainstream designer releases, in my opinion. I understand this format has its pros as well as its cons, but considering my taste sits around more established niche brands and mainstream designers, it's not very useful for me, or enjoyable to read since I don't know what they're referring to most of the time. I also have very different taste, though I agree with them sometimes.

    But as others have said, the writing's good. Turin is clever and concise as always, so it's fun to flip through from time to time.
    As I said about the 2008 edition, if it had just been titled something like "The Whimsical Guide..." I wouldn't take issue, but when most people see the word guide they think it's going to be more straightforward. Instead, some of the reviews aren't what I would call reviews at all. Remember the non-review of Polo Double Black in the 2008 book? Anyway, I would have less of an issue with the choice of fragrances they chose if they had given a reasonable explanation as to why, or if they had published a few different guides, one for small house niche, one for major niche, one for designer, one for cheapos/clones, etc., which may have made them more money too! As it stands, I'm not really sure what to make of it. One certainly should be able to find some useful information, ideas, opinions, etc. in it, but there are so many claims and notions that are at least questionable (and that could have been sorted out without much effort, I'd guess) that I can't help but feel some disappointment (and I also wonder whether the target audience was nouveau riche newbies).

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I haven't bought it yet, but have looked through it. I thought it was good. Might get it at a later date.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    If you loved the first book, the 2nd is definitely worth getting. I love both of them.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Great book, I've had lots of new discoveries based on their 4 and 5 star reviews this year. I've used both the 2008 and 2018 guides as references quite a bit.
    Currently wearing: LAVS by Unum

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Thanks for all the input folks.
    Currently wearing: Himalaya by Creed

  23. #23
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    Default Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I received it this week. Quick initial observations (I haven't read the intro text):
    - All MFK reviews are by TS and the ones I saw were blistering. Is MFK their new Creed?
    - Like others observed, there seem to be a lot of obscure brands and less designers / lower priced scents.

    I know more now than when I first started referencing A-Z, and will enjoy their takes while disagreeing heartily with some of them. It's all subjective.

    It's going to be a fun read / reference, and I really appreciate their effort.
    Currently wearing: Himalaya by Creed

  24. #24

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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    They definitely don't like the turn that Kurkdjian has taken. They did like him as a perfumer before. Other disliked brand include Xerjoff.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by DanHD View Post
    I received it this week. Quick initial observations (I haven't read the intro text):
    - All MFK reviews are by TS and the ones I saw were blistering. Is MFK their new Creed?
    told you to ignore TS' writings. she has a broken nose and a strange soda-trauma.
    Aqua Universalis ---> "Sprite"
    Baccarat 540 ---> "fruity cola" , "Hawaiian Punch"
    Oud Velvet Mood ---> "cola oud"

    like... wtf woman?!

  26. #26
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    Default Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by slickadam View Post
    told you to ignore TS' writings. she has a broken nose and a strange soda-trauma.
    Aqua Universalis ---> "Sprite"
    Baccarat 540 ---> "fruity cola" , "Hawaiian Punch"
    Oud Velvet Mood ---> "cola oud"

    like... wtf woman?!
    You're too funny! I'll listen next time :-)
    Currently wearing: Himalaya by Creed

  27. #27

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Do they really have to be disrespectful when they dislike a fragrance? I'm all for fun and jokes but not a fan of the lack decorum that even Basenoters here follow as form of basic respect.

    Then they give a scent like Jo Malone Basil Neroli 4 stars which my wife owns a 15ml of and is so basic and soulless... But hey Im not a trained nose... Then again, I can recreate that scent with my novice level perfuming lab and call it "4711 with less pizzazz and longevity edition".

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    I loved this review on Goodreads by Dave Johnson

    Because I am a fragrance lover, I want to like this book. Because I am a fragrance reviewer and critic, I want to like this book. But I don't.

    The authors have a lot of opinions, as anyone would, and they give their honest thoughts--which I appreciate. But the problem is not that they like or dislike fragrances, but that they don't explain WHY they don't like or dislike them. Sometimes they do this very well, but most of the time, they don't, leading to a very unbalanced mix of high quality and poor quality reviews. Many times the authors will only use a single word for their review. A single word. Other reviews (usually the 5-star reviews) get pages of text, which are usually great reviews. I say "usually" because it's really hit-or-miss. Many times the authors just write a lot of text about nothing--maybe they met the perfumers or they talk (too much) about some tangential comparison only to talk about the actual perfume for one sentence, which happens far more than it should. Other reviews just dumbfound me at how the authors completely missed the point of the perfume itself, seemingly not even doing any cursory research on the fragrance--like, not even looking up notes. One case of this is when they reviewed Memoirs Of A Tresspasser by Imaginary Authors, by saying they were promised cognac but got marshmallow. But the thing is, cognac is neither in the notes, nor in the marketing, so what exactly are they talking about?

    When reviewing things, it's not just important to give your opinions on WHAT you think; it's often more important to explain WHY you think your opinions are true. Even if someone disagrees with you, they can at least follow your train of thought. That doesn't happen here. The authors assume that you should just care about their opinions just because they are self-professed experts with a published book supporting this fact. Why are they experts? I have no clue. It's not like this fact even annoys me, really. But when taken together with a barely publishable book, you start to question the broader context.

    Maybe you love this book. But I really don't like it. Even if you disagree with me, I hope you see why I say what I say, here.
    ".....if you've got a blacklist, I want to be on it.." Billy Bragg

  29. #29

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Interestingly, LT loves Nuit de Magnetique, raves about it, and most folks here seems to like it much. Just a note. He loves New York Intense, and Miyako, and Korrigan, among others, and not so much the real authentic oudy "Arabic" fragrances. Just saying.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Turen / Sanchez 2018 Book

    Quote Originally Posted by Francolino View Post
    I loved this review on Goodreads by Dave Johnson

    Because I am a fragrance lover, I want to like this book. Because I am a fragrance reviewer and critic, I want to like this book. But I don't.

    The authors have a lot of opinions, as anyone would, and they give their honest thoughts--which I appreciate. But the problem is not that they like or dislike fragrances, but that they don't explain WHY they don't like or dislike them. Sometimes they do this very well, but most of the time, they don't, leading to a very unbalanced mix of high quality and poor quality reviews. Many times the authors will only use a single word for their review. A single word. Other reviews (usually the 5-star reviews) get pages of text, which are usually great reviews. I say "usually" because it's really hit-or-miss. Many times the authors just write a lot of text about nothing--maybe they met the perfumers or they talk (too much) about some tangential comparison only to talk about the actual perfume for one sentence, which happens far more than it should. Other reviews just dumbfound me at how the authors completely missed the point of the perfume itself, seemingly not even doing any cursory research on the fragrance--like, not even looking up notes. One case of this is when they reviewed Memoirs Of A Tresspasser by Imaginary Authors, by saying they were promised cognac but got marshmallow. But the thing is, cognac is neither in the notes, nor in the marketing, so what exactly are they talking about?

    When reviewing things, it's not just important to give your opinions on WHAT you think; it's often more important to explain WHY you think your opinions are true. Even if someone disagrees with you, they can at least follow your train of thought. That doesn't happen here. The authors assume that you should just care about their opinions just because they are self-professed experts with a published book supporting this fact. Why are they experts? I have no clue. It's not like this fact even annoys me, really. But when taken together with a barely publishable book, you start to question the broader context.

    Maybe you love this book. But I really don't like it. Even if you disagree with me, I hope you see why I say what I say, here.
    I think at this point, it's unlikely they are going to change how they "review." And even if both had studied for years at the best perfumery schools in the world, worked at the major fragrance companies, were creative directors for a couple of major "houses," etc., that still would not mean that what they enjoy is what I enjoy. But it's not even clear they enjoy the fragrances that they give 5 star reviews to. If you can't disclose to your readers how often you actually wear (if ever) the fragrances you consider the best, then how much credibility do you have? Very little with me. I think LT said, about the 2008 reviews, that they would spray on paper and then if they thought it had promise they would try it out on skin, or something along those lines. You can do that if you say up front that you really dislike a certain kind of composition, let's say Drakkar Noir and Cool Water type scents, but if you act like you are "objective" then it all falls apart and you come across as clearly biased (and those who mostly wear fragrances for the drydown might get misleading information from such reviews). I think they would have been better off (by a wide margin) explaining in detail not just why they assessed a scent the way they did but exactly how and why they sampled all the reviewed fragrances the way they did.

    Now let's be real here, they want to make money with this book. If it's too "dry" and "technical," they are going to lose readers, but they found a "winning formula" with the snarky, whimsical, etc. style, especially LT. It reminds me of how many people talked about Siskel and Ebert arguing with each other rather than the movies they were reviewing "back in the day." Also, you might enjoy a scent one day and then a week later it really irritates you. In my experience, the only thing you can get from a review is a general idea of a scent, such as "in the TF Tuscan Leather range." If it's a new composition, that often means a large amount of an aroma chemical was used, such as cashmeran, so that's something a competent reviewer can mention. My sense is that there is tremendous "snob appeal" in their reviews, especially LT, and nobody wants to admit that they like something because they want to think they are better than others in some significant way. It's one thing to think that way but another to be self-reflective about it. LOL. In any case, it's not expensive and there are some useful or interesting things in it, so if you don't have something more interesting or important to do with your life, you might as well read it, but I'd much rather have the reviews at BN or Fragrantica than all their reviews combined, if I am thinking about blind buying.




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