Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,021

    Default Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    It seems I am a bit late to the Maison Francis Kurkdjian 'Le Soir' trio. By this I mean:

    Cologne Pour Le Soir (2009)
    Absolue Pour Le Soir (2010)
    Grand Soir (2016)

    Sadly I haven't tried any of them although I intend to as soon as I figure out how. I believe some may be discontinued (Cologne)?

    Are they intended to be flankers of the original 'Cologne'? Or were they just released as separate scents?

    Also, subjective as the question is, I wanted to ask what you think of each, which is your favourite and why?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    I was told that CPLS is a milder version of APLS, but I have not tested it, so I really cannot attest to that assertion.

    APLS is much more dense, more animalic than is GS which is more airy and romantic to my nose. Many people find APLS more difficult to wear than GS. I like them both, and I think they are different enough from one another to make it worth it to have both in your collection. I really like MFK.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  3. #3
    Basenotes Institution
    sjg3839's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    40,578

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Grand Soir is nice if you are a fan of Amber and Vanilla.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    20,557

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    They are different perfumes. They have in common the fact that they have ambers.

    Absolue pour le soir is as Oriane says, very animalic and spicy, dark, intense. I love it, but apparently it didn't have much success. The cologne is a nice, smooth amber (benzoin and the like); beautiful and easy to wear. Gran soir, which was once described to me by an SA as the substitute to Absolue, is amber and vanilla, as sjg was saying, but lacking the interest and the heft of Absolue.

    I own and love Absolue, like and might have bought cologne, ok but not buying grand soir.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    I'm not sure how much of a common thread runs through them all. Unfortunately Absolue is extremely difficult to come by in my part of the world ( it's also the one I'm most interested in). I enjoyed cologne when I sampled it but can't remember enough to be able to reliably report anything. I've worn Grand Soir on various occasions and while I'm not going to make any claims about great perfumery ( I don't feel qualified for one thing) it has a richness and opulence I've found in few other fragrances that is without any roughness, just masculine enough for me to be comfortable with and almost eternal in it's longevity. ( Seems to smell better the next day).

  6. #6

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Good question, this line confuses me too, especially in terms of availability:

    Grand Soir (sweet and dense and a bit dull), is usually available
    Cologne Pour le Soir is a smooth, benzoin rich, frankincense fragrance, available in just one store I know,
    Absolue I can't seem to find for the life of me; none of the stores I've been to (even online) carry Absolue, and most of the SA's I've talked to don't seem to know it exists.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution L'Homme Blanc Individuel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    I'm on the interwebs. And you are too? What a coinkydink!
    Posts
    13,964
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    Are they intended to be flankers of the original 'Cologne'? Or were they just released as separate scents?
    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolue Pour Le Soir are two versions of the same scent, just like Aqua Universalis and Aqua Universalis Forte. Imagine if Aqua Universalis had been named Aqua Universalis Cologne. You could consider Absolu Pour Le Soir to be Cologne Pour Le Soir's flanker.

    Grand Soir is a totally different scent that's unrelated to the other two. Grand Soir was released as part of the Petit Matin/Grand Soir duo (Good Morning/Good Night, more or less).

    I like Grand Soir a lot, but it doesn't suit me. Petit Matin, however, is one of my favorites... but Petit Matin is a totally different scent. It's sparkly and fresh, as a morning scent, whereas Grand Soir is a big fun amber, as a big night out type of scent.

    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolu Pour Le Sour are superb, but they're not my style at all! They're way more challenging, especially the absolu! It's daaaaark and animalic. The cologne is too, but it's much more tame. I'm glad I have samples, but I can't really wear that stuff.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
    Castile
    Royal Oud
    Rose 31
    Curve
    1725 Casanova
    Noir De Noir
    Tom Ford Extreme
    Prada L'Homme
    Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne
    Hanae Mori H.M. (EDT)
    Pomelo Paradis
    Aqua Universalis

  8. #8
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13,104

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Agree with the above points and what Oriane mentioned.

    Rum - i own both and absolutely love them. The CPLS although is just cologne in name - it is strong and can last 6+ hrs. As for APLS, one of the best from the last 10 yrs. I wouldn't call it dark though, the honey in it does help a bit. I was told by MFK when I met him in Toronto, that they were discontinuing APLS but will have CPLS in production and I told him point blank that he needs to make up the stoppage of production of APLS by releasing another nice animalic - he smiled and said he'll work on it
    Currently wearing: Idole de Lubin by Lubin

  9. #9
    Basenotes Institution L'Homme Blanc Individuel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    I'm on the interwebs. And you are too? What a coinkydink!
    Posts
    13,964
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Absolu Pour Le Soir and Cologne Pour Le Soir are both listed for sale on MFK's online shop. They also sell samples, and though those two aren't listed on the samples page, if you get in touch with customer service, they'll probably let you buy samples. I've done that to buy samples of things not listed. Come to think of it, that may be how I got samples of Cologne Pour Le Soir & Absolu Pour Le Soir.

    I'm a big fan of MFK's online shop. 4 packs of samples are a great deal, especially since they come with a coupon to take the price of the samples off the price on a full bottle.

    I'll echo badarun's comment about the strength of Cologne Pour Le Soir. Even though it's an EDC, I got excellent performance from it. On my skin, I think it easily lasted 10 hours, and the Absolu version lasted until I took a shower the next day.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
    Castile
    Royal Oud
    Rose 31
    Curve
    1725 Casanova
    Noir De Noir
    Tom Ford Extreme
    Prada L'Homme
    Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne
    Hanae Mori H.M. (EDT)
    Pomelo Paradis
    Aqua Universalis

  10. #10
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    261,473

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    I wanted to ask what you think of each, which is your favourite and why?
    As an owner of three, all of which I like, I would say Absolue Pour Le Soir is my preferred as it smells nicer to me.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  11. #11
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13,104

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    I use CPLS in summer and APLS all other times
    Currently wearing: Idole de Lubin by Lubin

  12. #12
    Newbie
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    13,248

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    All different fragrances IMO, and not true flankers either. APLS is the best of the lot, and a little goes a long way. CPLS gets cloying after a while but lasting power is insane. Grand Soir is OK but kinda lackluster but some people love it. I have decants of all 3 but cherish the APLS the most even if I found it a challenging wear in the given climate.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Last i remembered, APLS was exclusive in the US to Neiman Marcus.

    Everything else is available to any retailer that is authorized to carry MFK. As such, Europerfumes price sheets (I scoured these back when I was seriously considering opening a fragrance store of my own before deciding to pursue other challenges) do not have APLS.
    It's really quite pleasant, except for the smell (...)
    -"Mama", My Chemical Romance

    Vintage Dior Leather Oud for sale (US only)

  14. #14
    Basenotes Member High Barnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    Absolu Pour Le Soir and Cologne Pour Le Soir are both listed for sale on MFK's online shop. They also sell samples, and though those two aren't listed on the samples page, if you get in touch with customer service, they'll probably let you buy samples. I've done that to buy samples of things not listed. Come to think of it, that may be how I got samples of Cologne Pour Le Soir & Absolu Pour Le Soir.

    I'm a big fan of MFK's online shop.

    I'll second this! At least from the US, the MFK site is clearly the best way to purchase their perfumes. (just click "International" when getting to their site).
    Absolue Pour Le Soir is only available through MFK.
    It is not discontinued, just now an MFK exclusive.

    There are a couple threads lauding this site too...great.

  15. #15
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,021

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Apologies for my late reply people... but better late than never I guess

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolue Pour Le Soir are two versions of the same scent, just like Aqua Universalis and Aqua Universalis Forte. Imagine if Aqua Universalis had been named Aqua Universalis Cologne. You could consider Absolu Pour Le Soir to be Cologne Pour Le Soir's flanker.

    Grand Soir is a totally different scent that's unrelated to the other two. Grand Soir was released as part of the Petit Matin/Grand Soir duo (Good Morning/Good Night, more or less).

    I like Grand Soir a lot, but it doesn't suit me. Petit Matin, however, is one of my favorites... but Petit Matin is a totally different scent. It's sparkly and fresh, as a morning scent, whereas Grand Soir is a big fun amber, as a big night out type of scent.

    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolu Pour Le Sour are superb, but they're not my style at all! They're way more challenging, especially the absolu! It's daaaaark and animalic. The cologne is too, but it's much more tame. I'm glad I have samples, but I can't really wear that stuff.
    Thanks for the clarification. I intend on trying them all out. Luckily Cologne and Grand Soir are easy to get samples of in the UK and I hope to get a sample of APLS from another source.

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    Rum - i own both and absolutely love them. The CPLS although is just cologne in name - it is strong and can last 6+ hrs. As for APLS, one of the best from the last 10 yrs. I wouldn't call it dark though, the honey in it does help a bit. I was told by MFK when I met him in Toronto, that they were discontinuing APLS but will have CPLS in production and I told him point blank that he needs to make up the stoppage of production of APLS by releasing another nice animalic - he smiled and said he'll work on it
    I'm finding it hard to see where the 'honey' comes in to an animalic scent. The only thing I can think of that has this structure based on the description is vintage Kouros. Are these any similar to that? I have and love Kouros vintage.

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    Absolu Pour Le Soir and Cologne Pour Le Soir are both listed for sale on MFK's online shop. They also sell samples, and though those two aren't listed on the samples page, if you get in touch with customer service, they'll probably let you buy samples. I've done that to buy samples of things not listed. Come to think of it, that may be how I got samples of Cologne Pour Le Soir & Absolu Pour Le Soir.

    I'm a big fan of MFK's online shop. 4 packs of samples are a great deal, especially since they come with a coupon to take the price of the samples off the price on a full bottle.

    I'll echo badarun's comment about the strength of Cologne Pour Le Soir. Even though it's an EDC, I got excellent performance from it. On my skin, I think it easily lasted 10 hours, and the Absolu version lasted until I took a shower the next day.
    Yup I noticed they have APLS there and ship to the UK for free. In fact they are the only place that sell it that I have found. It might be an option worth pursuing as I can get all the samples together (in theory). Price is quite reasonable. £ and € exchange rate though has been terrible lately.

  16. #16
    Super Member oudaddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Manchester, England
    Posts
    186

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolue Pour Le Soir are two versions of the same scent, just like Aqua Universalis and Aqua Universalis Forte. Imagine if Aqua Universalis had been named Aqua Universalis Cologne. You could consider Absolu Pour Le Soir to be Cologne Pour Le Soir's flanker.

    Grand Soir is a totally different scent that's unrelated to the other two. Grand Soir was released as part of the Petit Matin/Grand Soir duo (Good Morning/Good Night, more or less).

    I like Grand Soir a lot, but it doesn't suit me. Petit Matin, however, is one of my favorites... but Petit Matin is a totally different scent. It's sparkly and fresh, as a morning scent, whereas Grand Soir is a big fun amber, as a big night out type of scent.

    Cologne Pour Le Soir and Absolu Pour Le Sour are superb, but they're not my style at all! They're way more challenging, especially the absolu! It's daaaaark and animalic. The cologne is too, but it's much more tame. I'm glad I have samples, but I can't really wear that stuff.
    I agree with this, except Grand Soir is my favourite out of these four mentioned, definitely FBW and blind-buy. The translation is Grand Soir (Big Night), Petit Matin (Little Morning), Pour Le Soir (For the Night/Evening).

  17. #17
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,021

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Following up on a few that I've tried now gents, as promised.

    APLS. Wow! What an opening! The opening is literally very hard to stomach. This isn’t just urine but a very bad toilet - one of those they had in the 80s on the tube (underground/subway) in London. Literally I can see the syringes on the floor when I close my eyes! But it really changes for the better after about 40 mins and I LOVE it! Don’t ask me why but it is really one to make people turn around. After a while I'm getting cinnamon and cloves, warmed by some sort of note in the mid, before it sweetens towards the end. This really must have been revolutionary at the time but I can see why this is a love it or hate it scent. The wife loved it too and she can’t stand strong smells. That says plenty...

    Grand Soir was a disappointment. The first few seconds were good but what I get after that is cheap, sweetened washing-up detergent. If it wasn’t so oily or greasy on skin, I’d be washing it off but I’m thinking that might be a waste of an entire bottle of hand wash. In the end I stuck with it and I still didn't think much of it towards the end. It became just about 'ok' in my books, but nothing I would rush to buy there and then.

    CPLS I've not had a chance to try yet. There is a place doing samples and I intend to get a small sample soon. Will report back.

    Meanwhile I need to give APLS another good wearing to see if I still like it.

  18. #18
    Super Member oudaddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Manchester, England
    Posts
    186

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    Following up on a few that I've tried now gents, as promised.

    APLS. Wow! What an opening! The opening is literally very hard to stomach. This isn’t just urine but a very bad toilet - one of those they had in the 80s on the tube (underground/subway) in London. Literally I can see the syringes on the floor when I close my eyes! But it really changes for the better after about 40 mins and I LOVE it! Don’t ask me why but it is really one to make people turn around. After a while I'm getting cinnamon and cloves, warmed by some sort of note in the mid, before it sweetens towards the end. This really must have been revolutionary at the time but I can see why this is a love it or hate it scent. The wife loved it too and she can’t stand strong smells. That says plenty...

    Grand Soir was a disappointment. The first few seconds were good but what I get after that is cheap, sweetened washing-up detergent. If it wasn’t so oily or greasy on skin, I’d be washing it off but I’m thinking that might be a waste of an entire bottle of hand wash. In the end I stuck with it and I still didn't think much of it towards the end. It became just about 'ok' in my books, but nothing I would rush to buy there and then.

    CPLS I've not had a chance to try yet. There is a place doing samples and I intend to get a small sample soon. Will report back.

    Meanwhile I need to give APLS another good wearing to see if I still like it.
    What do you mean 80s? Nothing has changed, LOL.

  19. #19
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,021

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by oudaddict View Post
    What do you mean 80s? Nothing has changed, LOL.
    Lol, true!

  20. #20
    People of Zee Wurl, Relax
    IsoESuperman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    3,779

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    APLS. Wow!

    Grand Soir was a disappointment.

    CPLS I've not had a chance to try yet.
    Whittled down to reflect how I feel Except for CPLS I guess since I've tried it. More or less one of the few cases where a "cologne" version actually smells like a lower concentration of it's parent process. To me it's a little more powdery, less intense opening, overall not as fun or pleasing.

    I experience APLS as primarily a raw honey/benzoin fragrance. If you've ever smelled raw unfiltered honey, still with bits of flowers and honeycomb in it, there's something animalic smelling about it, almost in a leathery way. APLS is on the powdery side of things for me too, the same kind of 'benzoin powdery' that I find in Midnight in Paris. There's some spices and incensey resins (labdanum isn't listed but it smells like there's some) on a cedar-ish/sandalwood-ish base, which also reads as sort of powdery.

    Some Atlas cedar oil can smell pretty pissy to me, compared to Virginia and other cedars, which seems might account for the many of the urinous impressions regarding APLS, and there are many. The whole cedar thing is kind of confusing - Atlas cedar is a totally different genre (Cedrus) than Virginia (Juniperus) cedar, which also happens to produce juniper berries, so some people call them juniper trees. And if you have a cedar shake siding or roofing, it's probably from the genre Chamaecyparis. Anyway enough with the Dendrology.

    I'm on the same page about the latter stages being more enjoyable than the opening. I wear it quite a bit in cooler weather, but if I'm not in the mood for it, I don't even want to think about smelling the cap. A pretty killer entry in the quasi-amber category, my favorite from Kurkdjian's own house.

    It's been a while since I smelled Grand Soir but from the get-go I found it to be a pedestrian tonka overload. I'm willing to give a nicely done amber some leeway if there's a bit of a tonka issue, but it just smells cheap and ham-fisted to me. I smell way more tonka than anything else, just way too sweet for my tastes. Something kind of scratchy about it too.

  21. #21
    Dependent Beck's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    where the wind makes the curve
    Posts
    5,592

    Default Re: Understanding the 'Le Soir' scents of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    I tried Cologne and Grand Soir briefly. Liked Grand Soir better. But my favorite is still Absolue. Find it the most bold MFK fragrance and in a good way.
    Currently wearing: Hindu Grass by Nasomatto




Similar Threads

  1. [USA] Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir
    By bigjakeriz in forum Items for Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12th December 2017, 04:40 AM
  2. Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
    By Hovo in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 14th June 2016, 02:23 PM
  3. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue pour le Soir
    By Oslo-Fjord in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 9th November 2011, 10:44 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000