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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    I was super lucky this past trip to Tokyo..got to smell real, genuine orris butter.
    Additionally, observed it`s use in some fabulously high end perfumes.
    The difference between real orris butter, and the ionons that I use - Isoraldeine 95
    Is staggering.

    Real orris butter from Europe has fresh green top notes (before it`s put in ethanol)
    A 10% solution of real orris butter is way waaaaayyyyyy more creamy, and much more powdery than Isoraldeine 95. It`s like night and day.

    Anyone going to Tokyo, should check out Osawa-san`s shop.
    Her powder-type perfume accords are the best I`ve come across.
    http://parfum-satori.com/en/about/

    Question:
    I understand that Methyl ionone iso super is a pretty darn good substitute.


    Does anyone have any suggestions for making a super creamy ionone accord?
    One that comes close to real orris butter? Is Methyl ionone iso super the highest quality next to real orris butter?

    Thanks so much
    Matt
    Long, dark Vancouver winters

  2. #2

    Default Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    Thanks for the recommend - I see CP has that. Do you have it yet?
    Wouldn't you be then qualified to tell us?

  3. #3
    Super Member
    xii's Avatar
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    Default Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    The difference between real orris butter, and the ionons that I use - Isoraldeine 95
    No wonder. The odour of orris butter is primarily due to the presence of irones not ionones.
    α-Irone is a pretty damn good substitute. Or better yet some synthetic orris butter like Charabot's 252482 Iris Beurre Reinforce 8% which looks and smells like the real thing.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Junkie

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    Default Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    I'm agree with Xii for excellent smell quality of Charabot beurre 8% reinforce, a very good reco....and,attention, the smell of iris is not only based on ionones, but many many myristic and palmitic acid and cedar aspects and others...ionones are only a face in many other faces....and some productors they make de-myristic proceedings with good results for essential oil : iris only with a fresh/fruity/floral aspect (for ex. iris of Primavera/Flora,a deutsch/italian label, i think have this process, i suppose but i'm not sure) ....i know 2 type of iris scent butter and oil: "creamy/buttery" and "fresh/fruity/floral" , and both types are very very good...

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    Quote Originally Posted by xii View Post
    No wonder. The odour of orris butter is primarily due to the presence of irones not ionones.
    α-Irone is a pretty damn good substitute. Or better yet some synthetic orris butter like Charabot's 252482 Iris Beurre Reinforce 8% which looks and smells like the real thing.
    thanks for the help!
    M
    Long, dark Vancouver winters

  6. #6

    Default Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    In my quest for powder a la Dior Homme, I know that it uses methyl ionone gamma 50% (127-51-5), which is evidently more orris and powdery than the other isomer blends (the 95% isn't as orris focused, yet is powdery). It also has orris absolute and possibly added alpha irone.





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