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  1. #1
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    Default patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    hello
    liaison carbone has a strange item: patchouli absolute.
    anyone tried it?
    what is it?
    thank you

  2. #2

    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    I just got it and have not have had a chance to evaluate it properly but on first pass it smells like a much cleaner version of patchouli. It is woodier in the dry down and does not have as much of a earthy opening. It has that traditional fruity/boozy patchouli opening minus the earthy notes. And the dry down is much cleaner. Like I said I have not thoroughly evaluated it yet, I have been more focused on the Vetyver rather than the patchouli. But those are my initial impressions.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    do you have the vetiver too? i would purchase it, can you tell me something about it?
    thank you

  4. #4
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    I imported 1kg each of Vetiver Absolute and Green Patchouli Absolute from the manufacturer in Indonesia. What do you want to know?

    They are both the best of the best.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I imported 1kg each of Vetiver Absolute and Green Patchouli Absolute from the manufacturer in Indonesia. What do you want to know?

    They are both the best of the best.
    How would you describe them in general and how would you compare them to the essential oils?

  6. #6

    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pobepto View Post
    do you have the vetiver too? i would purchase it, can you tell me something about it?
    thank you
    I have been evaluating vetiver for the last 30 odd hours, so these are my initial impressions and I have not really tried many Indonesian vetivers so there is that. With that being said it has an interesting smoky top note that dominates for around 6 hours and then it mellows out into a smoky papery woody note. It is an interesting ingredient and smooth compared to other vetivers but the papery note is a little off putting and might have to be hidden.

    A while back liaison carbone was kind enough to send me a sample of vetiver Indonesia also by IFF but that was much more darker in color and did not have as much of a pronounced papery note. I liked that one a lot more. It had an interesting opening with with the smoky note blending with everything else to give almost a coffee note to it. And it had more depth to it compared to the current one and it was a lot more smoother. But I think that sample has been sitting around for a while, so it might have aged and aged vetiver tends to change and improve over time so that might be the reason for the difference and this current one might also improve with time.

    So in summary, the vetiver is an interesting ingredient to have around for its smokey top note and it is a lot smoother than other vetivers but I do not see myself using this one heavily, more in small doses to dirty up something like say a floral perfume.

    One thing about the Patchouli, evaluating it, it seems to not last as long as the normal 5 year aged patchouli I use. It had kind of died out by day 3 where as my normal patchouli I get 5 + days

  7. #7
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    The Green Patchouli Absolute is in fact green colored, vs. brown that is the EO.
    This abs smells grassy greener too, and has none of that hippy vibe going on. (Which is my very least favorite bit to whatever Patch EO has going for it...) It is very thick/viscous, and no doubt has a high amount of Patchouli alcohol content. (I've not had it analyzed.)

    The Vetiver Absolute is the closest material that I've found, to a sample of 40 yr old polymerized vetiver EO that I've smelled... This odor profile has been sought out by myself for several years, and I am very pleased to find a supplier for the Abs. I think that needaname is testing out mainly Vetiver EO's, as this vetiver Abs, while from Indonesia, is not smoky, like Indo Vetiver EO's are. Indo Vetiver EO's are almost toasted / burnt, when distilling, so that is why they are inherently smoky.

    Absolutes always have much less toppy bits, and much more of the baser notes, for any naturals processed.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  8. #8

    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    The Vetiver Absolute is the closest material that I've found, to a sample of 40 yr old polymerized vetiver EO that I've smelled... This odor profile has been sought out by myself for several years, and I am very pleased to find a supplier for the Abs. I think that needaname is testing out mainly Vetiver EO's, as this vetiver Abs, while from Indonesia, is not smoky, like Indo Vetiver EO's are. Indo Vetiver EO's are almost toasted / burnt, when distilling, so that is why they are inherently smoky.

    Absolutes always have much less toppy bits, and much more of the baser notes, for any naturals processed.
    That sounds so very interesting. I seem to spend most of my time trying to cover up the top notes when using vetiver. It would be awesome to find a vetiver that had less toppy notes. Any chance you plan on getting Christine some to list for sale? Or by any chance would you be willing to ship some half way around the world?

    I always thought the smoky note in Indon vetiver was because of the way they harvested it where they burnt the top leaves part before extracting the roots from the ground. Or am I misremembering? Does the method of distillation of the essential oil cause the smoky note?

  9. #9
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by needaname View Post
    That sounds so very interesting. I seem to spend most of my time trying to cover up the top notes when using vetiver. It would be awesome to find a vetiver that had less toppy notes. Any chance you plan on getting Christine some to list for sale? Or by any chance would you be willing to ship some half way around the world?

    I always thought the smoky note in Indon vetiver was because of the way they harvested it where they burnt the top leaves part before extracting the roots from the ground. Or am I misremembering? Does the method of distillation of the essential oil cause the smoky note?

    I was able to convince the MFR to sell me just 1kg of stock, because subsequent orders need to be 5kg MOQ. I sold off a whole lot of 15ml bottles, in hopes of convincing other perfumers to buy in with me for more stock, but no one bit. Christine declined to go in with me on it. I have a standing order with another seller in the USA for 2kg, and I can buy one. But that leaves 2kg that people need to step up and buy. That's not happened. So for the time being, I am hoarding the Absolute that I currently possess, as I am now using it in perfumes.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  10. #10

    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I was able to convince the MFR to sell me just 1kg of stock, because subsequent orders need to be 5kg MOQ. I sold off a whole lot of 15ml bottles, in hopes of convincing other perfumers to buy in with me for more stock, but no one bit. Christine declined to go in with me on it. I have a standing order with another seller in the USA for 2kg, and I can buy one. But that leaves 2kg that people need to step up and buy. That's not happened. So for the time being, I am hoarding the Absolute that I currently possess, as I am now using it in perfumes.
    That is unfortunate.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I was able to convince the MFR to sell me just 1kg of stock, because subsequent orders need to be 5kg MOQ. I sold off a whole lot of 15ml bottles, in hopes of convincing other perfumers to buy in with me for more stock, but no one bit. Christine declined to go in with me on it. I have a standing order with another seller in the USA for 2kg, and I can buy one. But that leaves 2kg that people need to step up and buy. That's not happened. So for the time being, I am hoarding the Absolute that I currently possess, as I am now using it in perfumes.
    Is the vetiver absolute a SCO2 extract?

    Are most absolutes SOC2 extracts nowadays or are a lot still made
    through EtOH extraction?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Absolutes are mostly made with Hexane. Florals produce a concrete, that is washed with alcohol, to remove the solids, and what's left after evaporation is the absolute.

    I'm not sure if other materials produce a concrete that gets washed again, or not.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Absolutes are mostly made with Hexane. Florals produce a concrete, that is washed with alcohol, to remove the solids, and what's left after evaporation is the absolute.

    I'm not sure if other materials produce a concrete that gets washed again, or not.
    I often see SCO2 extracts labeled as absolutes although that I'm not entirely sure that is an accurate use of the term.... at least historically speaking.

    I have some interesting SCO2 extracts of both vetiver and patchouli I have been playing with.

    So the vetiver absolute that you have is a hexane extraction followed by ethanol?

  14. #14
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    Quote Originally Posted by ajsanch View Post
    So the vetiver absolute that you have is a hexane extraction followed by ethanol?
    Yes, I am fairly certain of that, let me check...
    This is on the website:

    " Obtained by solvent extraction of botanical biomass, absolutes contain highly concentrated aromatic oils of the source."
    This is not exact confirmation, but I read it as such.

    AND, it doesn't smell like a CO2 extraction that I have. The CO2's smell more like a steam distillation product from say, India (not Ruh Khus though) or South America.
    Ruh Khus smells more like the Absolute.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    The patchouly absolute from Liaison Carbone is molecularly distilled with IPM as codistillate. So it shares some features with other molecular distillates; it is colourless with clean yet deep odour. It's more fruity and less earthy-woody than the essential oils I've sampled, aged or not. Some such material must've been used in the fruity punch accord (gorgeous but a bit too much DHM to my taste) of Baldessarini by Baldessarini.

  16. #16

    Default Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    I finally had time to properly test this patchouli absolute out and I must say, it is my new favourite patchouli. It is what I imagined clearwood would be. It is clean like clearwood but has more depth to it and does not have the earthy top notes that clearwood has, I always felt the earthy notes got in the way with clearwood especially when used with something like vetiver. So all in all a really nice patchouli. Although on it is on the pricey side.




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