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  1. #1

    Default Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    On a typical perfume testing trip at john lewis I smelt a few Channels, Frederic malles and MFK.

    Something did strike me, that there are certain signature perfume house accords that are great and others that completely put me off a house.

    What is your most favourite signature house accords and also most disliked?

    Mine has to be Amouage (love frankincense) and least favourite Chanel, can't describe why, there is something there that puts me off the whole line, anyone else experience the same?
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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    The ambergris in Creed. For many of their fragrances it blends in well at the base.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    I am a fan of Tom Ford's, though that 'backbone' is not used in all of his creations.

    I like the stuff in most of the 'darker' creations.
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Creed and Annick Goutal - love the way they use citrus notes.
    Guerlain - No one does vanilla like Guerlain
    by Kilian - Their oud may be synthetic, but I really love it.
    Armani - the Amber accord in their Privé line is something I love.
    Zegna - The king of Bergamot
    Creed - Cedar done right.
    Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Enjoy their oud and dark wood notes.
    Chanel - Sandalwood stands out with their releases.
    Current Summer Favorites:

    1. Xerjoff - Nio
    2. Tom Ford - Rive d’Ambre
    3. Dior - Homme Cologne 2013
    4. The Different Company - De Bachmakov
    5. Armani - Code Sport Athlete
    6. Montale - Aoud Legacy
    7. Dior - Homme Sport 2008
    8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    9. Ermenegildo Zegna - Sicilian Mandarin
    10. Creed - Pure White Cologne

  5. #5

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Mediterranean notes and fine citrus in general from Aramani and Xerjoff, Guerlinade from Guerlain, barbershop style and/or EDC notes from houses like ADP

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Creed ambergris
    Avon amber
    Chanel "Polgewood" sandalwood compound
    Guerlinade
    Kenneth Cole cypress/grapefruit note
    oh look, I have a signature
    Currently wearing: Green Irish Tweed by Creed

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Quote Originally Posted by Aerandir4 View Post
    What is your most favourite signature house accords and also most disliked?
    Perhaps Montale or Creed. Can't think of any specific house dislikes.
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  8. #8
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    -Guerlinade
    - AdP citrus
    - Xerjoff citrus
    - Serge Lutens resins
    - I really like the dark, plush opulence of the florals in many of Tom Ford’s fragrances.
    - Creed ambergris

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    The incense in Tom Ford fragrances.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    The basenotes(that dry smell, incense, whatever it is) in Tauerville and Andy Tauer fragrances.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Sonoma Scent Studio’s amber-labdanum

    Chanel’s iris-violet

    AbdesSalam Attar’s patchouli-vetiver

    Areej Le Dore’s oud-musk

    Fragrance Du Bois’s oud base
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  12. #12

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Guerlainade, for sure.

    The underlying 'powdered iris' leaning 'Prada-ade' that Daniela Andrier uses in a lot of the Pradas is terrific for me - very distinctive.

    The 'Bois' and sometimes 'Bois + dried fruit' accords that run through a lot of Lutens / Sheldrake's earlier works is quite unique.

    I actually quite like the 'Champagne Aldehydes' up front of a lot of the Chanels - also a signature that says 'Chanel'.

    There is also a very distinctive 'herbal garrigue' accord running thru a lot of Santa Maria Novella EdC's that's unique to them, cool stuff.
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    the Guerlainade
    CdG's incense & synthetic sandalwood
    Narciso Rodroguez's dirty musk

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Creed's ambergris and musk drydowns.

    Tom Ford's use of "ouds". From M7 to Oud Wood to Tobacco, Minerale, Fleur and Japonais I like them.

    Amouage Frankincense and resins.

    Tauerade creosote.

    Matriarch's use of woods. Big. Powerful.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Favourites : Etro vetiver-patchouli-etc in the base, Comme des Garcons incense+woods, Guerlainade
    Least favourites : Lutens dried fruit, Chanel aldehydes, the dark, burnt, sour base in some Tom Fords and Armani Prives
    Summer rotation : Guerlain Vetiver; Etro Palais Jamais and Shaal Nur; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Prada Infusion d'Iris EdP.
    Summer obsessions : Knize Knize Ten; Etro Gomma; Mona di Orio Cuir; Andy Tauer Lonestar Memories; Caron Yatagan
    Currently wearing: 17/17 Irisss by Xerjoff

  16. #16

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Least liked: The accord contained in Nasomatto Black Afgano, Duro and, to a lesser degree, Pardon. Not sure what it is.
    Currently wearing: Habit Rouge by Guerlain

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Houses definitely have them.

    4160 Tuesdays has a dry raspberry smell (raspberry leaf?) in a bunch of their fragrances.

    Chanel's often have a distinctly Chanel smell, but that can change periodically. When they changed the exclusive line from edt's to edp's, they took away a nice signature chord that was in the bases of several of them. I kind of miss it. It made several of them smell almost the same in the deep base, but it lasted for a long, long time, and it was nice.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Ambergris in Creed and Bond no.9

  19. #19

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    There is an accord running through the Prada 'Infusions' that I'm not that keen on

    The very early Comme Des Garcons fragrances had a sort of cold but transparent quality that I loved

  20. #20

    Default Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Guerlainade
    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Guerlinade
    Quote Originally Posted by broguesforsir View Post
    -Guerlinade
    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Guerlainade, for sure.
    Quote Originally Posted by slickadam View Post
    the Guerlainade
    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    Guerlainade
    Guerlainade.

    ~~

    Also +1 on Comme des Garconsade and Prada-ade.
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