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  1. #61

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Club Design:

    Begins with an astringent, acrid leather note, then a jammy leather reminiscent of TF Tuscan Leather with its raspberry leather accord. As it dries, it reminds me a bit of Galop, which I enjoy a lot. But it’s not a bright fruit like Galop; it’s a darker berry accord. Maybe mulberry.

    Eventually there is tonka, tabacco, and maybe Ambroxan.

    Plushy boot leather plus cedar and amber are in the drydown.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  2. #62

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Interesting. I love Club design and I love galop, though I don't get similarities. But I'll be smelling again...

    cacio

  3. #63
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Back to Louis:

    Once again, with feeling!

    This is much different on skin. The first spritz features a blinding note with a lot of cumin, but thankfully all that dissipates quickly. After that, it’s kind of a modern rose/spices chypre, complete with Bergamot, rose, cinnamon, clove, cumin, and a generalized floral heart note with something fruity in there, too. Reminds me of Pour Monsieur EDP here. A few minutes later, the rose and spices are mostly gone, replaced with some WACs and a celery seed/tomato leaf note. The overall effect as it settles is of a modern aromachemical riff on Egoiste.

    The drydown after an hour or so is disappointingly faint and smells sweet.

    Edit: I see that it’s orange blossom, not rose. But I swear there are moments I smell a supporting rose such as the rose in Knowing or Egoiste: understated and even vegetal.
    "WACs" ?
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  4. #64
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Club Design:

    Begins with an astringent, acrid leather note, then a jammy leather reminiscent of TF Tuscan Leather with its raspberry leather accord. As it dries, it reminds me a bit of Galop, which I enjoy a lot. But it’s not a bright fruit like Galop; it’s a darker berry accord. Maybe mulberry.

    Eventually there is tonka, tabacco, and maybe Ambroxan.

    Plushy boot leather plus cedar and amber are in the drydown.
    Did you get a rubbery accord early on?

    I consider this the best one from the set. A very nice dark rugged leather scent fused with woods and musk.
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  5. #65

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting. I love Club design and I love galop, though I don't get similarities. But I'll be smelling again...

    cacio
    It’s only for about 20 minutes that they remind me of each other. Then the woody/musky elements come out in Club Design. I love Galop. I might need it.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    "WACs" ?
    Woody aromachemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Did you get a rubbery accord early on?

    I consider this the best one from the set. A very nice dark rugged leather scent fused with woods and musk.
    My favorite, too, though I have one more to sniff.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  6. #66

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Re Le Galop, perhaps I am very sensitive to the notes, but I get the rotten fruit note that Nagel does so well, but I don't get it in Club design.

  7. #67
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    It’s only for about 20 minutes that they remind me of each other. Then the woody/musky elements come out in Club Design. I love Galop. I might need it.



    Woody aromachemicals



    My favorite, too, though I have one more to sniff.
    I love Galop d'Hermes. I want a bottle *bad*

    Woody aromachemicals. Gotcha!
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

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  8. #68

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Re Le Galop, perhaps I am very sensitive to the notes, but I get the rotten fruit note that Nagel does so well, but I don't get it in Club design.
    You’re right; the fruit isn’t rotten in Club Design. I do prefer Galop for the rotten fruit. Slightly off-topic perhaps, but Mr. Kotori has never been a big fan of Diorella, which I adore. I’ve decided not to replace the bottle when the time comes for that reason. But I’ve decided that of its many agreeable qualities, my favorite is the rotten melon accord, when combined artfully with a citrus chypre. I’m wondering if a good rotten fruit perfume like Galop might scratch the itch without offending Mr. Kotori’s sensibilities.
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  9. #69

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    Fig My Love

    How I ended up saving this for last, I am not sure. You all know I’m no friend of fig fragrances. But this one is really bright and green and even the drydown isn’t very sweet. I don’t think this fig is ripe! But perhaps all the better.
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  10. #70

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Scent of Oger by Creed

    This is perhaps a riff on the classic Eau de Cologne genre. We have here a very naturalistic sweet orange and lemon opening with maybe some Bergamot and maybe some petitgrain. Then a fierce underbelly of what smells like Clary Sage. At this point, it reminds me of a much more skillful and long lasting version of something I once whipped up from essential oils. Eventually the Creed-ade comes out, whatever that base is. But this one, like Angelique Encens, really does smell vintage. Kind of what I’d imagine the dandies of another time spraying on their handkerchiefs.
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  11. #71

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    To check, I am wearing Galop today. If one looks for it, I can see how the opening of Galop does have a bit of the sharpness of Club design. But I have to look for it. Left to its own, I'm enveloped in Nagel's fruity world.

    Did Mr Kotori smell the Nagel sample pass? I think that most people would have agreed that Le Galop was the mildest rotten fruit of the lot (relative to Archives, at least). Speaking of rotten fruit, I recently smelled vintage, discontinued Grain de sable, which was praised by Luca Turin somewhere. The Diorella melon is there. But more in another thread.

    cacio

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Fig My Love

    How I ended up saving this for last, I am not sure. You all know I’m no friend of fig fragrances. But this one is really bright and green and even the drydown isn’t very sweet. I don’t think this fig is ripe! But perhaps all the better.
    I consider this a bitter darker alternative to Diptyque Philosykos. It's nice but I need a fig that is more aromatic.
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  13. #73
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Scent of Oger by Creed

    This is perhaps a riff on the classic Eau de Cologne genre. We have here a very naturalistic sweet orange and lemon opening with maybe some Bergamot and maybe some petitgrain. Then a fierce underbelly of what smells like Clary Sage. At this point, it reminds me of a much more skillful and long lasting version of something I once whipped up from essential oils. Eventually the Creed-ade comes out, whatever that base is. But this one, like Angelique Encens, really does smell vintage. Kind of what I’d imagine the dandies of another time spraying on their handkerchiefs.
    Spot on! That's exactly how I view Scent of Oger. It feels more like a eau de cologne if anything. Initially I was concerned that the potpourri would be overpowering but it blends in really well with the citrus and spice notes.

    You're in for a real treat with Angelique Encens and Vintage Tabarome, Verveine Narcisse, Bayrhum Vetiver in the Rouge Perfumery pass.
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  14. #74

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    En route to Juxtapozbliss!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
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  15. #75

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    The eagle has safely landed. Will begin sampling tonight. Thanks, Kotori (and N.Cal)!
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  16. #76
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    The eagle has safely landed. Will begin sampling tonight. Thanks, Kotori (and N.Cal)!
    Looking forward to reading your impressions
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  17. #77

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    I love these large samples. You can get good sprays out of them. Ok, here we go:

    Caree Blanc

    Opens like a cleaning product trying to scrub out B. O. The worst of this passes and then the green comes forward but not a particularly pleasant green. I feel thrown into a pile of lawn grass that's been moldering for a while. The grass is sour or that could be a tint of grapefruit clashing with the grass. There's also some sweetness struggling against the sourness, which could be the orris but it's not floral, at least not in the opening. The green is going strong, it's quite astringent. I have to say, it's so acidic there is something urinous here. It changes little at this point for hours and hours. In a nutshell, Carree Blanc is what you might get if Ninfeo Mio spoiled and went bad.
    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
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  18. #78
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    I love these large samples. You can get good sprays out of them. Ok, here we go:

    Caree Blanc

    Opens like a cleaning product trying to scrub out B. O. The worst of this passes and then the green comes forward but not a particularly pleasant green. I feel thrown into a pile of lawn grass that's been moldering for a while. The grass is sour or that could be a tint of grapefruit clashing with the grass. There's also some sweetness struggling against the sourness, which could be the orris but it's not floral, at least not in the opening. The green is going strong, it's quite astringent. I have to say, it's so acidic there is something urinous here. It changes little at this point for hours and hours. In a nutshell, Carree Blanc is what you might get if Ninfeo Mio spoiled and went bad.
    You verbalized my thoughts about this fragrance precisely. Did not work for me at all.
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  19. #79

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Hazel5 View Post
    You verbalized my thoughts about this fragrance precisely. Did not work for me at all.
    Excellent! Starting out strong. :-)
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  20. #80

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Funny how what's interesting for some (me) is bad for others. My issues were with the drydown, but I loved the top of carre blanc.

  21. #81

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Funny how what's interesting for some (me) is bad for others. My issues were with the drydown, but I loved the top of carre blanc.
    I’m convinced that people have very distinct olfactory senses. Things just smell differently to different people. I know for myself, cade always smells like burnt meat. For others, it’s smoky or tobacco or resinous...etc, depending on the concentration and context of ingredients around it.


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  22. #82
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    I love these large samples. You can get good sprays out of them. Ok, here we go:

    Caree Blanc

    Opens like a cleaning product trying to scrub out B. O. The worst of this passes and then the green comes forward but not a particularly pleasant green. I feel thrown into a pile of lawn grass that's been moldering for a while. The grass is sour or that could be a tint of grapefruit clashing with the grass. There's also some sweetness struggling against the sourness, which could be the orris but it's not floral, at least not in the opening. The green is going strong, it's quite astringent. I have to say, it's so acidic there is something urinous here. It changes little at this point for hours and hours. In a nutshell, Carree Blanc is what you might get if Ninfeo Mio spoiled and went bad.
    Grapefruit can easily smell urinous so I'm sure that's what that is
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  23. #83
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Hazel5 View Post
    You verbalized my thoughts about this fragrance precisely. Did not work for me at all.
    I didn't like this one either, it's just felt really strange for me.
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  24. #84

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Club Design

    Strong leather in the opening. In fact, it's the most clear leather scent I've ever smelled. It's so leathery it's like bondage night at a leather bar. Then I get a little fruit. IS THIS A PUN?!?! I can recognize it as black currant, included in the notes. Subtle and a nice touch. A little musk comes in at the heart. There's some gentle spices here like pink pepper. It's taking shape as cedarwood but not aggressively more of a background accent. The black currant is thickened by the musk making it syrupy. Overtime, it's becoming more like elderberry syrup. I'm finding it too sweet at this stage although the opening was remarkable. The drydown eases up on the sweetness and syrupy thickness. It becomes a powdery musk at this point with hints of the fruit. It trailed off after about 3 hours.

    Community

    A strong citric-neroli opening. A hint of that sourness that I sometimes get from neroli. Some might read it as tart, but I get a slightly unpleasant sourness. Then I get more recognizable Mandarin coming through. Some creamy woods here, possibly sandalwood but not wholly obvious. I don't find the wood and the citrus too complementary at this stage. They blend but awkwardly. They feel contradictory. The woods ease up and the citrus becomes stronger. The sourness is almost bitter for me now. Against the citrus, the wood strengthens again...they've been dancing with each other. It's become quite tasty at this point. Some cedar, very dry. The bergamot peeks out with hints of musk and spice in the drydown. The drydown was my favorite part.
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  25. #85
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    Club Design

    Strong leather in the opening. In fact, it's the most clear leather scent I've ever smelled. It's so leathery it's like bondage night at a leather bar. Then I get a little fruit. IS THIS A PUN?!?! I can recognize it as black currant, included in the notes. Subtle and a nice touch. A little musk comes in at the heart. There's some gentle spices here like pink pepper. It's taking shape as cedarwood but not aggressively more of a background accent. The black currant is thickened by the musk making it syrupy. Overtime, it's becoming more like elderberry syrup. I'm finding it too sweet at this stage although the opening was remarkable. The drydown eases up on the sweetness and syrupy thickness. It becomes a powdery musk at this point with hints of the fruit. It trailed off after about 3 hours.

    Community

    A strong citric-neroli opening. A hint of that sourness that I sometimes get from neroli. Some might read it as tart, but I get a slightly unpleasant sourness. Then I get more recognizable Mandarin coming through. Some creamy woods here, possibly sandalwood but not wholly obvious. I don't find the wood and the citrus too complementary at this stage. They blend but awkwardly. They feel contradictory. The woods ease up and the citrus becomes stronger. The sourness is almost bitter for me now. Against the citrus, the wood strengthens again...they've been dancing with each other. It's become quite tasty at this point. Some cedar, very dry. The bergamot peeks out with hints of musk and spice in the drydown. The drydown was my favorite part.
    These were my favorites from the set. Club design I didn't pick any sweetness or syrupy feel whatsoever. Leather and woods were the main contenders that I got from this. The scent itself lasted a long time. It reminded me of a rugged leather jacket that you could wear on a night out in town, this makes this scent very appealing. Community was also a nice citrusy green aromatic combined with a woody base making this appealing for the warm weather.
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  26. #86

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    These were my favorites from the set. Club design I didn't pick any sweetness or syrupy feel whatsoever. Leather and woods were the main contenders that I got from this. The scent itself lasted a long time. It reminded me of a rugged leather jacket that you could wear on a night out in town, this makes this scent very appealing. Community was also a nice citrusy green aromatic combined with a woody base making this appealing for the warm weather.
    Club Design definitely had the most realistic leather that I've ever smelled. Very impressive in that regard. And Community had a wonderful drydown.
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  27. #87
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    In a nutshell, Carree Blanc is what you might get if Ninfeo Mio spoiled and went bad.
    Intriguing. I think a rotted/spoiled version of Ninfeo sounds like it could be very good!

  28. #88

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Intriguing. I think a rotted/spoiled version of Ninfeo sounds like it could be very good!
    You hooked me on Ninfeo. This can't live up to it. But you should judge for yourself!


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    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com
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  29. #89

    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    I wanted to try Fig My Love last night, but decided to postpone it. I had worn Royal Oud yesterday...applied it in the morning, and wow...I forgot how potent it is. Spice for days. I didn't want to taint my evaluation given how much the Royal Oud had affected me. Should be getting to it this evening.
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    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com
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  30. #90
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    I wanted to try Fig My Love last night, but decided to postpone it. I had worn Royal Oud yesterday...applied it in the morning, and wow...I forgot how potent it is. Spice for days. I didn't want to taint my evaluation given how much the Royal Oud had affected me. Should be getting to it this evening.
    Have you tried Philosykos? If so, I'd be curious if you can identify differences between this and Fig My Love.
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