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  1. #1

    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Sorry for starting the thread so late this month, folks! l have no excuse, it just slipped my mind in all the New Year excitement/hangover.

    Anyway, l look forward to another year of reading your impressions of whatever you're trying.

    l'm planning to sample something myself today, so l'll update this post later on...
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  2. #2
    violent violet vamp

    HouseOfPhlegethon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    I was going to message you, to let you know, we needed a new thread for sampling. Of course, I forgot! I suppose I could have started it but, I didn't want to step on your toes.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

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    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    LOL, HoP! l wouldn't have minded.

    The Actress by St Giles. This line consists of five perfumes created by Bertrand Duchaufour for Roullier White, the London perfumery store, to represent "different aspects of our character". l chose this one to try, because it sounded like the kind of big white floral that l enjoy.

    Lemon & bitter orange combine with lily in the opening to produce a rich, orange blossom-like accord. This is given an edge of freshness with basil & tomato leaf, so that the whole effect is crisp & green with a creamy undertone. The green notes become sharper around thirty minutes in, before slowly taking a back seat. At the two hour mark, l get a whiff of woodsmoke, perhaps from the patchouli, followed by a dry vanilla, & another crisp, papery note rather like papyrus. Later still, l get a mineral note in the base, a little like wet stones. The projection is pretty big for the first couple of hours; six hours in it's faded considerably.

    The notes list & the description on the website make this sound like a thoroughly feminine perfume, but l'm going to channel Luca Turin here & say that l think it would make a great masculine. My skin does tend to amplify green notes, but these along with the smoky, papery & mineral notes prevent this one from smelling overly feminine. l'd say if you're a guy who likes florals, you might want to check this out, if you can ignore the name.
    Last edited by teardrop; 9th January 2019 at 10:32 PM.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Member ClockworkAlice's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Black Opium Nuit Blanche by Yves Saint Laurent
    Bash my taste all you want, but I really like Black Opium EDP, the smell of its sweet orange blossom vanilla syrup with a pinch of coffee just makes me happy. And what is the best quality for a fragrance if not making you happier? I just always secretly wished - if Black Opium was a tiny bit less sugary, a bit more spicy and a bit less flowery, and the coffee was a bit more prominent, then it would be just perfect.
    And today, I found perfect.
    Black Opium Nuit Blanche by Yves Saint Laurent is exactly what I wanted - it's all creamy vanilla latte, it has less flowers (only some orange blossom), more coffee, more vanilla, more pepper (or at least I feel it more), it's still very sweet, but its sweetness isn't the loud berry-ish (idk where the berries come from, they aren't in the notes?) sweetness of Black Opium (and not the totally unbearable sugar dose of EDT and Floral Shock!), but the creamy and soft sweetness of vanilla and latte foam.
    The first 20-30-40 minutes are overwhelmed by vanilla and it seems even sweeter than Black Opium EDP, but you actually feel coffee all the time. And it's not black coffee or coffee beans, this is creamy foamy milky latte in all its glory. As vanilla gets softer, the latte comes out more and more, and its smell covers you like a cosy blanket and makes you feel all warm and happy.

    I can't stop sniffing my wrists because they smell like vanilla latte and a cinnamon roll (okay, there's no cinnamon in the notes, but it almost seems like there is), or maybe pepper cookies.
    Now I know how happiness smells, at least for me. For me it smells like creamy vanilla latte and pepper cookies, or like Black Opium Nuit Blanche by Yves Saint Laurent.

  5. #5

    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    ClockworkAlice, welcome to the thread, l enjoyed reading your post! You make that one sound delicious, l'll have to try it if l see it in a store.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

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    Basenotes Member ClockworkAlice's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    ClockworkAlice, welcome to the thread, l enjoyed reading your post! You make that one sound delicious, l'll have to try it if l see it in a store.
    Thank you!
    Well, it is delicious to me, but it might not be that delicious to you Anyway, I'll be interested in your impressions on how delicious, crappy, superb or mediocre it seems to you

  7. #7
    violent violet vamp

    HouseOfPhlegethon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Prada Olfactories: Pink Flamingos... Rose. Lots of rose. Hints of bergamot, plastic, iris, cherry, and violet.

    This is the first rose-centric perfume I've sampled in months. Wear have all the roses gone? I must subconsciously be picking things that don't feature rose.

    I digress. Pink flamingos is nice - not worth hiring a marching band for celebrating.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  8. #8
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Una Tira L'Altra by Hilde Soliani. Cherry. Cherry cola. Almond. Tonka. Boozy later. Yummy stuff! Heliotrope vibe, too.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  9. #9
    Super Member thekelleybelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by HouseOfPhlegethon View Post
    Una Tira L'Altra by Hilde Soliani. Cherry. Cherry cola. Almond. Tonka. Boozy later. Yummy stuff! Heliotrope vibe, too.
    HoP, I wore Blossom Love by Amouage for the first time yesterday, and I could use your first impressions on Una Tira word for word. Yummy indeed.

    I tried Bracken Woman last night, and it's bracing. I like it. Lots of sharp green with a little bit of salt, and I get the chamomile coming through as well. I see why this one can be polarizing, but I'm starting to gravitate toward green fragrances that really slap you in the face - the kind of slap that leaves a welt. I'll have to give it a full and proper wearing soon, maybe the next time Texas temps get above 60F.

  10. #10
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by thekelleybelle View Post
    HoP, I wore Blossom Love by Amouage for the first time yesterday, and I could use your first impressions on Una Tira word for word. Yummy indeed.

    I tried Bracken Woman last night, and it's bracing. I like it. Lots of sharp green with a little bit of salt, and I get the chamomile coming through as well. I see why this one can be polarizing, but I'm starting to gravitate toward green fragrances that really slap you in the face - the kind of slap that leaves a welt. I'll have to give it a full and proper wearing soon, maybe the next time Texas temps get above 60F.
    Una Tira... also reminded me of a cherry flavored liqueur whose name escapes me. I smelled some vanilla and I swear, sandalwood, too. I really enjoyed it but I am not gong to seek a FB or even a decant. I am REALLY trying for discipline this year, in buying perfume. I have 5 more Zoologist travel sprays, (then I'll have them all) that I am saving for, maybe a full bottle of an Oriza L. Legrand then THAT'S IT! Always chasing the dragon...

    Bracken woman, is one I've not tried. I do enjoy Amouage. They have some great scents.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  11. #11
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Les Heures De Cartier: L'Heure Mysterieuse XII. A resinous, somewhat balsamic oriental with lovely patchouli - the type I always fall for. I thought I smelled jasmine. I'm still not sure. Sweet spices here. Becomes powdery after awhile. As much as I love this I won't spring for a full bottle because of its price and the fact that I own so many similar to this.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  12. #12
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Le Vestiaire des Parfums: Caftan by YSL. One of the best orientals released by a fashion house. Sweet, juicy citrus, with rosy pink pepper on top. The heart and base meld together fairly quick. Rich, resinous, ambery, musk, dark, deep, m'm good stuff. If you can find a sample get one - it's a massive oriental.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  13. #13

    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by HouseOfPhlegethon View Post
    Le Vestiaire des Parfums: Caftan by YSL. One of the best orientals released by a fashion house. Sweet, juicy citrus, with rosy pink pepper on top. The heart and base meld together fairly quick. Rich, resinous, ambery, musk, dark, deep, m'm good stuff. If you can find a sample get one - it's a massive oriental.
    This one sounds nice, HoP! Plus the name is very much my style. On the test list it goes!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  14. #14
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    This one sounds nice, HoP! Plus the name is very much my style. On the test list it goes!
    If you love oriental perfumes, you should try to find a sample. It's good enough to gnaw off your hand! I'm going to savor my sample for years...
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  15. #15
    Super Member thekelleybelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    I tried Amber Kiso by D.S. & Durga for the first time last night, and I'm giving it a proper wearing today. I actually expected to prefer Amber Teutonic, but that one is a twinge too synthetic on my skin and caused a minor rash (I have extremely sensitive skin, so I doubt it would cause the same reaction on a wide swath of users). Amber Kiso is pleasant and just complex enough to not be completely boring. I really like the incense and cypress notes - they're not the loudest, but they add an interesting contrast to the amber accord that, say, VC&A's Ambre Impérial lacks. This one is an earthy amber thanks to the patchouli and various woods, and iris adds a bit of softness that doesn't scream "IRIS!" but rather softens the harsher edges of some of the more synthetic tones. A lot of people get a strong leather...I don't, but I think the iris + incense might read as leather to some (or I could just be missing it completely). In the far dry down, 12+ hours in, it gets sweet as if there's some surprise vanilla hiding underneath everything, but I think it's just the patchouli. It's a skin scent after about 6-8 hours, depending on your skin of course.

    Amber Teutonic by D.S. & Durga - I don't have much to say about this one due to the aforementioned rash. It reminded me a lot of Tolu by Ormonde Jayne, but even more synthetic. I actually like these brash, chemical-driven pine and fir notes in other perfumes, but they were a little relentless here. I appreciated the dash of cardamom, but with the addition of orange it also reminds me of Dior Addict (not one of my faves). This also lasts and lasts and lasts, but unfortunately I won't be able to test it again.

  16. #16
    Super Member thekelleybelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Sylvaine Delacourte:

    Dovana - a musky neroli that quickly gives way to a musky iris. The neroli remains present but slips into the background. Sweet, a bit soapy, and then slightly powdery with a vintage makeup vibe. Somehow also modern, and definitely feminine.

    Fiorentina - It starts peppery, which I didn't expect. Purple flowers galore, though something greenish and bitter underpins the heliotrope/iris/violet/vanilla, maybe violet leaf. Musky and powdery, as you might expect.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Serge Lutens L’Innomable - starts off loud with the typical SL sweet oriental stew, then turns into nearly pure immortelle on me. Pass.

  18. #18
    Basenotes Member ClockworkAlice's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Wood pour Femme by Dsquared2,

    Was given a spray tester vial from the shop. They say it's "Floral-Woody" on tester's package, but all I was able to smell the first several hours was sweet light floral with a touch of fruits. (notes written on package: mandarin, muguet, osmanthus / magnolia, jasmin petale, raspberry leaves / ambrox, cedarwood, white woods.) I didn't like this at all during those two first hours. Smell is indistinctive and uninteresting, smells like anything you'd get as a gift from relatives through your teenage years and just wear mindlessly because, well, you have it on your shelf (at least I think I had some similar fragrances or tester vials to this through the years). After 2,5 hours it gets less sweet/flowery and the woody base starts showing up and it's getting more pleasurable (for me), but not enough to want to wear it some time again. The smell is very very light, I had to spritz it on my wrists several times to be able to smell it, and I have to practically dig my nose into my wrists to smell it on me, too.

    Not recommending this. Though it might be a nice light summer scent for a teenage girl, especially as a casual scent when you want to feel fresh, as it's very very light. I think I'll try this out some time in May or June, as I suspect it might be better during warm weather and sunshine, but so far it looks like I'll be giving away this spray tester vial to some friend or colleague who might like this type of scent.

  19. #19
    Basenotes Member ClockworkAlice's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    My second sample of the day was Kenzo World EDT (the pink bottle), another spray vial given me by the shopkeeper.

    Top note: Pear, Middle: Peony and Almond flower, Bottom: Orris (according to the packaging of the vial).

    And what a horror show this thing was! I had to scrub it off after an hour because I really started thinking this might make me sick. I think its staying power is also quite good, since after all the soap and water I STILL get small hints of the stuff from my skin. Now this had a MUCH better sillage than poor Wood pour Femme, and this almost drove me nuts. It was sweet, flowery and fruity in the worst way imaginable to my nose. I'm not saying the scent itself is bad, but I'm staying away from anything pear, peony and almond flower related for a looong time (since I'm not sure which one was the worst for me, most probably pear). I'm hiding this one where I can't see it until I can find someone who'd like to take the poor thing from me.

    So the thing I learned today about myself is that I enjoy sweet fragrances when their sweetness comes from vanilla, but I truly hate it when their sweetness comes from the combination of fruits and sweet flowers.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Today I'm sampling Purple Heart by Map of the Heart. The company has marvelous bottles and 6 fragrances. https://mapoftheheart.com Each fragrance has it's own video. The marketing is fantastic. The scent is a strange rubbery ink/licorice/cherry/violet concoction. Here's what they say about it on the website:

    "Purple Heart v.5 inverts the olfactory pyramid by opening darker and then brightening. Heralded by bittersweet black fruits, its dark heart of salty liquorice, purple roses and intense violet rises to soar with the optimism of tonka bean awash in ink: the teller of tales. It is ultimately sumptuous on the skin."

    It's interesting, but I'm not sure how often I would wear it.
    “The unnatural and the strange have a perfume of their own”
    ― Fernando Pessoa

  21. #21
    Super Member thekelleybelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Sylvaine Delacourte:

    Smeraldo - The least musky of the collection. I get a bright, crisp, green opening with angelica, lime, and the tiniest bit of sweetness from yuzu fruit. A creaminess appears once the perfume dries, which may be from the mastic as there is a light, resinous quality underneath the floral notes here. I detect white flowers that remind me of the black locust note in Donna Karan Gold, which could also add to the creaminess factor.

    The vetiver is detectable from the first spray and provides a solid base to support the more delicate top and heart notes. Delicate is the most apt descriptor, I think, beautifully balanced, with quiet projection and moderate (borderline poor) longevity. Reminiscent of Eau de Cartier, but a bit more refined. Unisex leaning feminine.

    Helicriss - Quite an aromatic opening with sage and rosemary alongside an indistinguishable citrus accord (the pyramid says grapefruit, lemon, and bergamot which sounds about right). The immortelle kicks in a few seconds later. Immortelle is a weird note for me, sometimes I love it and sometimes I hate it, but right now I like it. Resinous notes enhance the citrus, and so far it's pretty linear. The patchouli picks up speed over time, but it never overwhelms. I really like this citrus + benzoin vibe. It perfectly complements the immortelle and has an almost incensy feel. The whole thing remains light and airy, surprisingly. Straight-down-the-middle unisex, maybe skewing a bit masculine.

    So far, I really like this house. I've only tried one of the new fragrances in her vanilla collection, Virgile, which is a lovely aromatic, non-sweet vanilla. I'm undecided on the full-bottle worthiness of any of these, but every perfume is carefully and skillfully composed. I hope I have enough of each sample left to give them a full and proper wearing.

  22. #22
    violent violet vamp

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by Hazel5 View Post
    Today I'm sampling Purple Heart by Map of the Heart. The company has marvelous bottles and 6 fragrances. https://mapoftheheart.com Each fragrance has it's own video. The marketing is fantastic. The scent is a strange rubbery ink/licorice/cherry/violet concoction. Here's what they say about it on the website:

    "Purple Heart v.5 inverts the olfactory pyramid by opening darker and then brightening. Heralded by bittersweet black fruits, its dark heart of salty liquorice, purple roses and intense violet rises to soar with the optimism of tonka bean awash in ink: the teller of tales. It is ultimately sumptuous on the skin."

    It's interesting, but I'm not sure how often I would wear it.

    You could always take it with you, if you're attending the Chicago meet-up. I'm sure someone there hasn't tried it yet. Just a thought.
    "Anything is an art if you do it at the level of an art" ~~ Richard Avedon

  23. #23

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - January 2019

    Today I sampled Versace Eros for the second time. I liked it better on this second go round, but I don't think it's full bottle worthy for my limited budget collection.

    It may be due to inexperience, but I feel this smells kind of like JPG Le Male. Kinda like it could have been a flanker for it. I think Le Male smells like clean laundry. It's a nice scent, but not that exciting to my nose. The performance was good though. Eros, to me, smells like Le Male with added notes. I like it better, and I do find it more interesting than Le Male, but it doesn't "wow" me. Performance on this was ok the first time I wore it, but it fared better today for whatever reason. Not full bottle worthy for me (I don't feel Le Male is either FWIW), but I do like it. I'll certainly enjoy the rest of my sample.




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