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  1. #481
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Hi, everyone -- I'm not participating in the pass, but you guys hooked me on trying the line, so I ordered the sample set, and NCal asked for my opinions, so here they are.

    First out of the box was Champs Lunaires. I agree 100% with the comparisons to Tubereuse Criminelle and earlier formulations of Fracas. On my skin, Champs Lunaires is all about tuberose and gardenia and not of the sweet variety. (Thankfully, the gardenia isn't one of the variations that gives me a screaming headache, which is often the result for me and the reason I simply cannot wear Fracas.) In addition to the camphorous opening, which I LOVE, there is definitely a high pitch to these florals, but they aren't screechy. It's more that they're "dressy"/formal vs beachy. To borrow from opera, Champs Lunaires is a soprano aria with a leading-lady commanding presence. I don't smell any jasmine or orange blossom, at least not in the opening (but that may be just my nose). About 30 minutes in, the pitch drops to a purring alto level, with sandalwood and musk really quieting things down and warming up the fragrance. The tuberose and gardenia seem to disappear, but it's really a relativist's trick: compared to what they were, they're almost gone. But when I pull my nose back from my wrist just a bit, I can tell that at this stage, the tuberose, gardenia, sandalwood, and musk are just perfectly balanced. This is my favorite stage of the fragrance. At this point, I can pick up a bit of jasmine and rose, but I don't think I'll ever spot any orange blossom. Overall, Champs Lunaires is really lovely, but it's a bit too serious for me. I like my BWFs with a bit of side-eye and a wink.

    Le Canotier ... I am DYING to like this one because it feels like the kind of sophisticated I want to be. (This may never happen; see prior paragraph. ) I'm hoping that if I work with it, it'll be like me and IPAs -- I couldn't drink them at all until one day, I could. The problem is not with Le Canotier. The problem is my struggle with vetiver. I wear and enjoy fragrances that highlight the citric aspects of vetiver. I struggle with all of the other presentations, except for whatever Onda Voile d'Extrait is (besides fabulous). I appreciate the opening 30 minutes of Le Canotier a lot; I start to enjoy wearing it as it warms up and loses the sharpest edges and corners of vetiver's bitterness. Le Canotier is something I could see myself growing to love as my evolution with vetiver continues. High-level, I don't find this to be an overly smoky kind of vetiver. For me, the green, bitter aspects are highlighted, with a wisp of smoke winding its way through the first 30 minutes. The smoke gradually fades as vetiver smooths out and warms up. I don't get any bitter orange at all, and very little violet. I definitely get tobacco (it's tobacco smoke, though, not tobacco leaf) and ambergris. The ambergris and vetiver play off each other in a way that's just mesmerizing to my nose, and ultimately, that's what Le Canotier is for me: a gentle swirling of vetiver and ambergris.

    Fougere L'Aube ... I have no idea what's happened here, but there is absolutely something in it that does not play well with my skin. From the moment I put it on, all I could smell was an overwhelming spoiled/sour note and a sharp lavender. I'm not going to spend any more time reviewing Fougere L'Aube because, based on the reviews above, I'm convinced the problem is with my skin and not with the fragrance. Sometimes that happens, and it's not the perfumer's fault.

  2. #482
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    I like my BWFs with a bit of side-eye and a wink.
    ^^ Superb descriptive phrase.

  3. #483
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    And now I've tried Mousse Illuminee. This is simply beautiful. Apart from some soapiness in the opening that I don't understand but vanished quickly, Mousse Illuminee is a damp forest floor, with a bit of dappled sunlight, clumps of small white flowers, downed trees in various stages of decay, and shoots of new green growth -- grass, shrubs, small trees. Illuminee, indeed. This fragrance has a gentle glow and just a bit of smokiness (incense, not campfire), suffusing all that green, with the perfect touch of bitterness from the oak moss and whatever form of artemisia the perfumer used (tarragon? mugwort?) and a hint of clean pepper from the laurel.

    This puts me right in the middle of a cool Northwest forest in the summer, and I never want to leave. While I understand the allusions to Polo, Polo was *never* as evocative as this.

    Mousse Illuminee is stunning.

  4. #484
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    thekelleybelle - Thanks for reading! It's a pleasure having you on the site.
    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Brilliant!
    Well, thank you! Y'all are making me blush. I'm having a blast. There's no way I'd have smelled as much or learned as much over the past year without this fine group of fellow perfume nuts.

  5. #485
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Le Canotier
    Unlike the others I've tried, I'm not sold on the opening. One the one hand, I get fresh bergamot and a the dry, grassy vetiver that my fellow vetiver-lovers detect, but on the other, there's something that reeeally wants to turn into pee. It never quite does, thank goodness. I think it's the violet leaf, which rarely works on me (I'm looking at you, Vio-Volta) and which is the strongest note throughout alongside the vetiver, to my nose. I think I can pick up a light tobacco note, but it could just be because I'm looking for it. N. Cal, I can definitely see how one could get a ginger accord from this; sometimes, it almost smells like ginger ale. Maybe like a ginger ale mixed with grapefruit juice? Diamondflame, I can totally see some Isfarkand in this!

    Sniffing up close during the early drydown, it's almost sour. Not like a sour candy, but closer to overripe citrus fruit, just on the verge of molding. This sounds awful, but I actually find it compelling. I find it funny that Kotori got a Dr. Pepper vibe from Derviche, because I actually smell Dr. Pepper here! It's strange--I catch fleeting whiffs of fizzy Dr. Pepper from a distance, but when I go to sniff up close, it's all violet leaf and vetiver. I'm not sure what could be giving off that sweetness. Maybe the melon accord others picked up?

    Further into the drydown, the ambergris makes an appearance. It's a lovely, salty/sweaty musk smell that adds something resembling Eau de Merveille Bleue to the existing drydown.

    If all of this seems a bit nonsensical, it is. A citrussy yet dry vetiver with a Dr. Pepper back and touches of rotting fruit and salty, mineral skin musk. I'm drawn to sniffing it in the same way I'm drawn to sniffing the weird satin accord in L'Orchidee Terrible by Imaginary Authors. I could definitely see a small bottle of this in my collection (Cook.bot, Zephyr, and me makes 3 for the ladies!). Like L'Orchidee, it'd probably last me a lifetime, but I don't think I'd ever own anything else quite like it.

  6. #486
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    I made the following notes by blind sampling (I may have skim-read this thread, but so many different frags are being reviewed by different people that I lost track and am none the wiser), and then seeing what the listed notes were when I could not name/ID them.

    Derviche, using a dabber to swipe forearms.

    Opening seems familiar, somehow. It reminds me of a scented candle, something like "citrus and 'black' amber". Nicer than the average scented candle, though. The opening citrus tones down after minute or so. At the very start, there is a fleeting burning plastic note - what is this ? (wtf is wrong with my nose, I also got this with CdG Parfum in the blind sample pass?).

    Guessing bergamot, with vanilla+labdanum for the amber accord - and is there oud in this ? A dark, dirty note but with something high-pitched at the same time - if not oud (having read the notes), is this the civet and saffron ? A bit boozy (similar note/combo to Bentley for Men Intense ? in my mind - have not done a side by side comparison)

    ....After the initial drydown, I'm getting leather and booze/rum with the amber. A bit of incense. It's reminding me of Bel Ami Vetiver, but lighter and not quite as 'burnt', which is a very good thing. What makes the boozy note ?

    ....Now it's quietened down a bit, I get a floral I can't ID but it's probably a white floral (jasmine, according to the list of notes).This jasmine is very pleasant (non-indolic ???), unlike the L'Heure Bleue jasmine that I found skanky.

    ....Then another note that freshens / lightens the overall feel (geranium would be my first guess; but perhaps mint or clove? - none of these are listed - Manny, what is this cooling/freshening note ?.

    A bit later on, the scent is lighter again, but still with the dirty dark underpinning. Just recognised a sweet pipe tobacco accord (vanilla, tonka?, and a tobacco note I guess). This is not like the tobacco note in Aramis Havana, which is greener and more sour - cigar tobacco rather than pipe ? Interested to try Tabac Vert by comparison.
    Later... sudden whiff of honeyed floral. The dark stuff still lurks at the very deepest base of the honey. Where's the civet gone ?
    Far drydown is sweetish vanilla tobacco with that deep base, which is also woody? (could be the sandalwood, going by the notes).
    By this point (5-6 hours), it's a faint skin scent. But I did dab. Longevity and strength are less than I expected. Perhaps I did not apply enough ?

    I need to try this again, because I find the opening a bit much (though I did enjoy it), but the drydown is faint, though quite pleasant.
    This is a scent I would not otherwise have sampled because of the stated notes of jasmine and civet. I'm glad I did, and glad I sampled semi-blind. It's interesting, and I don't hate it. The civet+saffron give it presence/form. I think it is a scent that would take several wearings to grow to love, that its complexity would repay persistence.
    I found Derviche to be quite addicting to smell especially once the sweet oriental amber/vanillian accord kicks in. In general I'm not a fan of civet or castoreum. I'm quite sensitive to animalistic notes so this civet note in Deviche concerned me initially. Thankfully it's subdued by the other notes so that the civet note isn't a problem. Jasmine is another note that some have concerns about but not for me. I will say that Derviche does take some time getting used to.
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  7. #487
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Great notes on this one. I liked it. The opening is a bit over the top, but I like it, and the heart and base are great. It fades in about six hours on me too, which is fine. I like how it performs. I like how it develops and gets soft. I smelled it coming off other people this weekend, and it was strong about an hour into the wearing and smelled very good. It holds the heart notes longer on clothing.

    I got about 6-8 hours before it was gone. I'd be interested to see if a higher concentration would have an improvement in performance.
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  8. #488
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    And now I've tried Mousse Illuminee. This is simply beautiful. Apart from some soapiness in the opening that I don't understand but vanished quickly, Mousse Illuminee is a damp forest floor, with a bit of dappled sunlight, clumps of small white flowers, downed trees in various stages of decay, and shoots of new green growth -- grass, shrubs, small trees. Illuminee, indeed. This fragrance has a gentle glow and just a bit of smokiness (incense, not campfire), suffusing all that green, with the perfect touch of bitterness from the oak moss and whatever form of artemisia the perfumer used (tarragon? mugwort?) and a hint of clean pepper from the laurel.

    This puts me right in the middle of a cool Northwest forest in the summer, and I never want to leave. While I understand the allusions to Polo, Polo was *never* as evocative as this.

    Mousse Illuminee is stunning.
    A very description. I do get the impression of being in a damp forest or wilderness when i wore it.
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  9. #489

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Champs Lunaires is a white floral (tuberose), with a slight waxy feel. The opening is not overbearing, but the sillage is such that I can smell it faintly on my forearms when typing. btw, tuberose is not a flower I have smelled IRL, and the only tuberose scent I have sampled (on card in-store) is Hermes Twilly. Champs Lunaires is far more grown-up.

    Now there's a smell of metal polish (Silvo, Brasso, Duraglit, that sort of thing), that provides an airy lift and freshness, which is different to the freshness in Derviche but serves the same purpose. This ushers in a milky, creamy note, almost white chocolate, and a hint of PVC. Two hours later, and there's something fleetingly salty and a bit weird with the original floral notes, and then something else floral in common with Etro Dianthus (either rose or geranium, or one of the aromachems that make a carnation accord). And woody - that'll be the sandalwood at last. If this is the drydown, I like it, but it is a skin scent on me, after only 2-3 hours. A hour later, I can smell coconut and tuberose.

    White florals are not my bag, so I wouldn't want to wear Champs Lunaires myself. Nevertheless, this is very pleasant and nicely balanced/weighted, with an interesting development. Good work !

    ETA : still going strong as a skin scent 9 hours after application.
    Last edited by incense+heliotrope; 16th April 2019 at 07:52 PM.
    Spring/early summer rotation : Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge L'Eau; Etro Palais Jamais, Shaal Nur, Dianthus and Gomma; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling and Blenheim Bouquet; Comme des Garcons Zagorsk and Avignon; Dior Fahrenheit; and L.T. Piver Heliotrope
    Currently wearing: Gomma by Etro

  10. #490
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    Hi, everyone -- I'm not participating in the pass, but you guys hooked me on trying the line, so I ordered the sample set, and NCal asked for my opinions, so here they are.

    First out of the box was Champs Lunaires. I agree 100% with the comparisons to Tubereuse Criminelle and earlier formulations of Fracas. On my skin, Champs Lunaires is all about tuberose and gardenia and not of the sweet variety. (Thankfully, the gardenia isn't one of the variations that gives me a screaming headache, which is often the result for me and the reason I simply cannot wear Fracas.) In addition to the camphorous opening, which I LOVE, there is definitely a high pitch to these florals, but they aren't screechy. It's more that they're "dressy"/formal vs beachy. To borrow from opera, Champs Lunaires is a soprano aria with a leading-lady commanding presence. I don't smell any jasmine or orange blossom, at least not in the opening (but that may be just my nose). About 30 minutes in, the pitch drops to a purring alto level, with sandalwood and musk really quieting things down and warming up the fragrance. The tuberose and gardenia seem to disappear, but it's really a relativist's trick: compared to what they were, they're almost gone. But when I pull my nose back from my wrist just a bit, I can tell that at this stage, the tuberose, gardenia, sandalwood, and musk are just perfectly balanced. This is my favorite stage of the fragrance. At this point, I can pick up a bit of jasmine and rose, but I don't think I'll ever spot any orange blossom. Overall, Champs Lunaires is really lovely, but it's a bit too serious for me. I like my BWFs with a bit of side-eye and a wink.
    Wonderfully written, thanks for sharing these reviews Perhaps give Champs Lunaires another wear to see if you feel differently about it. It might be a bit challenging to wear as like the rest of the scents they do carry a dated feel to them. If you're more use to modern scents it might be more challenging to enjoy as oppose to those who've developed an appreciation for vintage scents.

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post

    Le Canotier ... I am DYING to like this one because it feels like the kind of sophisticated I want to be. (This may never happen; see prior paragraph. ) I'm hoping that if I work with it, it'll be like me and IPAs -- I couldn't drink them at all until one day, I could. The problem is not with Le Canotier. The problem is my struggle with vetiver. I wear and enjoy fragrances that highlight the citric aspects of vetiver. I struggle with all of the other presentations, except for whatever Onda Voile d'Extrait is (besides fabulous). I appreciate the opening 30 minutes of Le Canotier a lot; I start to enjoy wearing it as it warms up and loses the sharpest edges and corners of vetiver's bitterness. Le Canotier is something I could see myself growing to love as my evolution with vetiver continues. High-level, I don't find this to be an overly smoky kind of vetiver. For me, the green, bitter aspects are highlighted, with a wisp of smoke winding its way through the first 30 minutes. The smoke gradually fades as vetiver smooths out and warms up. I don't get any bitter orange at all, and very little violet. I definitely get tobacco (it's tobacco smoke, though, not tobacco leaf) and ambergris. The ambergris and vetiver play off each other in a way that's just mesmerizing to my nose, and ultimately, that's what Le Canotier is for me: a gentle swirling of vetiver and ambergris.
    I think your impression Le Canotier is quite the opposite to mine. The first 30 minutes are the worst part of the scent. It's very off putting for me with the combination tobacco, citrus, violet leaf notes with a ginger accord that I detect that isn't listed in the notes. The vetiver I do enjoy although I do prefer my vetiver in the form of Sycomore as well as Guerlain and Dior Vetiver - dry, green, earthy. This was my least favorite from the pass and the only one I give a thumbs down on.
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  11. #491
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    Champs Lunaires is a white floral (tuberose), with a slight waxy feel. The opening is not overbearing, but the sillage is such that I can smell it faintly on my forearms when typing. btw, tuberose is not a flower I have smelled IRL, and the only tuberose scent I have sampled (on card in-store) is Hermes Twilly. Champs Lunaires is far more grown-up.

    Now there's a smell of metal polish (Silvo, Brasso, Duraglit, that sort of thing), that provides an airy lift and freshness, which is different to the freshness in Derviche but serves the same purpose. This ushers in a milky, creamy note, almost white chocolate, and a hint of PVC. Two hours later, and there's something fleetingly salty and a bit weird with the original floral notes, and then something else floral in common with Etro Dianthus (either rose or geranium, or one of the aromachems that make a carnation accord). And woody - that'll be the sandalwood at last. If this is the drydown, I like it, but it is a skin scent on me, after only 2-3 hours. A hour later, I can smell coconut and tuberose.

    White florals are not my bag, so I wouldn't want to wear Champs Lunaires myself. Nevertheless, this is very pleasant and nicely balanced/weighted, with an interesting development. Good work !

    I found Champs Lunaires challenging to wear as well. Tuberose isn't a floral that I'm comfortable wearing in general but I don't find anything repulsive or negative about it. Despite my reservations about it, I thought it was a great scent.
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  12. #492
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    blood

    interesting take on Chypre Siam. For most, the chypre accord is just a note unto itself, it's not that one is picking moss, labdanum and what else separately. The elegant citrus, leather and animalic is probably the chypre accord when the bergamot is still very noticeable. Later who knows, unless it's the indescribable part.

    cacio
    Thanks !
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  13. #493

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Tabac Vert

    Goodness, this sample pack is impressive. Of all the releases I've tried so far, this one smelled closest what I was expecting, and was probably the most immediately attractive at a gut level. It opens with a dry tobacco leaf and a zippy citrus, herbs (can't ID) and pepper accord, with a dry/resinous backbone, likely cedar and moss. Simple and rather serious in nature, but beautifully executed. The tobacco at this point is clearly the star, and it's a great tobacco note, though it may feel "thin" to those accustomed to big, fat, wet, sweet pipe tobacco scents. It's not that. This is dry tobacco leaf, aging in some kind of sauna-like wooden room. Spare at to the point, but highly satisfying.

    The base accord has a soapy and somewhat sharp sandalwood note is slightly ambery/powdery, and importantly has a significant moss component which prevents tabac Vert from evolving into a common sweetened amber-tobacco situation. This is a tobacco cyphre with a very slight soapy layer, smooth and chewy but not "thick". There's a certain modernity to it, despite a preponderance of traditional notes. The deep base increasingly smells like moss and a high quality sandalwood soap to me - the tobacco has mostly left the premises.

    This was an incredibly easy, comforting, and satisfying wear for me. Projection was close but longevity was all-day, and the wafts kept making me smile. The dryness makes a good option for wear in almost any condition, and it isn't so traditional as to be too stuffy for casual wear. I haven't smelled Creed Tabarome, so I can't speak to that comparison that has been made by others.

    Tied for pass favorite so far. Wearing again today!
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 17th April 2019 at 07:14 PM.
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  14. #494
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Tabac Vert

    Goodness, this sample pack is impressive. Of all the releases I've tried so far, this one smelled closest what I was expecting, and was probably the most immediately attractive at a gut level. It opens with a dry tobacco leaf and a zippy citrus, herbs (can't ID) and pepper accord, with a dry/resinous backbone, likely cedar and moss. Simple and rather serious in nature, but beautifully executed. The tobacco at this point is clearly the star, and it's a great tobacco note, though it may feel "thin" to those accustomed to big, fat, wet, sweet pipe tobacco scents. It's not that. This is dry tobacco leaf, aging in some kind of sauna-like wooden room. Spare at to the point, but highly satisfying.

    The base accord has a soapy and somewhat sharp sandalwood note is slightly ambery/powdery, and importantly has a significant moss component which prevents tabac Vert from evolving into a common sweetened amber-tobacco situation. This is a tobacco cyphre with a very slight soapy layer, smooth and chewy but not "thick". There's a certain modernity to it, despite a preponderance of traditional notes. The deep base increasingly smells like moss and a high quality sandalwood soap to me - the tobacco has mostly left the premises.

    This was an incredibly easy, comforting, and satisfying wear for me. Projection was close but longevity was all-day, and the wafts kept making me smile. The dryness makes a good option for wear in almost any condition, and it isn't so traditional as to be too stuffy for casual wear. I haven't smelled Creed Tabarome, so I can't speak to that comparison that has been made by others.

    Tied for pass favorite so far. Wearing again today!
    Great impression. I'm in the minority to say that I do see similarities to this and Vintage Tabarome. TV does feel it bit more modern of the two while VT has a heavier and richer oakmoss accord.

    Which ones are you eyeing for a bottle of?
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  15. #495
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Wonderfully written, thanks for sharing these reviews Perhaps give Champs Lunaires another wear to see if you feel differently about it. It might be a bit challenging to wear as like the rest of the scents they do carry a dated feel to them. If you're more use to modern scents it might be more challenging to enjoy as oppose to those who've developed an appreciation for vintage scents.
    It's true I tend to prefer modern fragrances on the whole. But when it comes to green or leather fragrances, I much prefer chypres and other vintage styles. I love how uncompromising they are and already do appreciate them. I do not, however, feel compelled to chase down true vintage fragrances. I only have so much time, energy, and money.

    I understand Champs Lunaires and appreciate the approach the perfumer is taking with it. Truth be told, I don't find it "dated" or vintage at all; rather, I think Champs Lunaires cants quite modern in feel compared to some of the other Rogue fragrances.

    It's just so damn SERIOUS for a few hours, and serious white florals aren't my cuppa. For me, the power of those BWFs doesn't need the additional weight of a serious approach. I like them balanced with self-awareness or ironic distance or humor. So while Champs Lunaires gets a thumb's up from me for being extraordinarily well done for the kind of white floral it is, it won't be joining my collection.

  16. #496
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Derviche ... wow. OK, NCal, you called it. Both my husband and I love it -- but it's MINE! It's a fantastic cherry tobacco fragrance and one of the few that incorporates both tobacco leaf and tobacco smoke. It has a warm soft, glow, like how lit tobacco looks in the pipe bowl when it's being puffed: shots of warm embers glowing under dark tobacco. It's mesmerizing. And teardrop, if you don't love this one, I'll fall right out my chair!

    I don't get any Dr. Pepper, but I can see how the cherry could take that turn for some people. The only weirdness I get is a wonderful whiff of something rubbery (but not plastic) about 10 minutes in. I suspect it's the opening interplay of the civet and jasmine, and I freaking LOVE it. There's a part of me that wishes the jasmine were fully indolic and the civet were let loose, but I know that's not what Derviche is about. They just add depth, texture, and great interest to a fragrance that's already fantastic.

    I gave Derviche a full wearing today, and it lasted a good 8-9 hours dabbed. I can't wait to see what it does sprayed. This is my 2nd favorite of all of the Rogue fragrances, behind Mousse Illuminee and just edging out Chypre Siam.

    I should add, I've never liked Tobacco Vanille. I always loved Phaedon Tabac Rouge and SSS Tabac Aurea. Derviche is the best of the bunch. And it's not close.

  17. #497
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    Derviche ... wow. OK, NCal, you called it. Both my husband and I love it -- but it's MINE! It's a fantastic cherry tobacco fragrance and one of the few that incorporates both tobacco leaf and tobacco smoke. It has a warm soft, glow, like how lit tobacco looks in the pipe bowl when it's being puffed. Kind of shots of warm embers glowing under dark tobacco. It's mesmerizing. And teardrop, if you don't love this one, I'll fall right out my chair!

    I don't get any Dr. Pepper, but I can see how the cherry could take that turn for some people. The only weirdness I get is wonderful whiff of something rubbery (but not plastic) about 10 minutes in. I suspect it's the opening interplay of the civet and jasmine, and I freaking LOVE it. There's a part of me that wishes the jasmine were fully indolic and the civet were let loose, but I know that's not what Derviche is about. They just add depth, texture, and great interest to a fragrance that's already fantastic.

    I gave Derviche a full wearing today, and it lasted a good 8-9 hours dabbed. I can't wait to see what it does sprayed. This is my 2nd favorite of all of the Rogue fragrances, behind Mousse Illuminee and just edging out Chypre Siam.

    I should add, I've never liked Tobacco Vanille. I always loved Phaedon Tabac Rouge and SSS Tabac Aurea. Derviche is the best of the bunch. And it's not close.
    Perhaps take turns wearing it? lol

    Manny did say he's going to make it available in larger bottles - 100ml in addition to the 30 & 60ml bottle sizes.

    It's my second favorite behind Chypre-Siam, I was bummed that the larger 60ml was sold out so I had to settle for the 30ml bottle. I don't get the Dr. Pepper feel when wearing it. I thought it was a much better quality of Ambre Narguile as to me they were fairly similar. In Derviche, the depth and richness was there where as in Ambre Narguile it remained linear before fading into nothing.

    Mousse Illuminee offended people around me when I wore it so I won't be considering it. Too many people called me out for smelling like weed.

    teardrop is next in line so it won't be long now. I predict she'll be a believer in Rouge as well. A little bit of encouragement from Jon will also help too.
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    It's true I tend to prefer modern fragrances on the whole. But when it comes to green or leather fragrances, I much prefer chypres and other vintage styles. I love how uncompromising they are and already do appreciate them. I do not, however, feel compelled to chase down true vintage fragrances. I only have so much time, energy, and money.

    I understand Champs Lunaires and appreciate the approach the perfumer is taking with it. Truth be told, I don't find it "dated" or vintage at all; rather, I think Champs Lunaires cants quite modern in feel compared to some of the other Rogue fragrances.

    It's just so damn SERIOUS for a few hours, and serious white florals aren't my cuppa. For me, the power of those BWFs doesn't need the additional weight of a serious approach. I like them balanced with self-awareness or ironic distance or humor. So while Champs Lunaires gets a thumb's up from me for being extraordinarily well done for the kind of white floral it is, it won't be joining my collection.
    I'm in the same boat as you for giving a thumbs up in approval while unable to purchase a bottle for myself. It's not something I could see myself reaching for often if not at all.
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    ExtremeK, l'll be surprised if l don't enjoy Derviche, too! Would you say it bears any similarity to Chergui?
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.
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  20. #500

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Smelling Derviche right now. WOW. I'm getting vanilla and sandalwood floating on tobacco. Leather too though it's veering toward a gourmand at the moment. Maybe hints at a smoother, more luxuriant Egoiste. I enjoyed the craftsmanship in Mousse Illuminee and Chypre Siam but would not wear either. Derviche on the other hand...hmmm...it's really nice, almost soothing in a way...

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    Smelling Derviche right now. WOW. I'm getting vanilla and sandalwood floating on tobacco. Leather too though it's veering toward a gourmand at the moment. Maybe hints at a smoother, more luxuriant Egoiste. I enjoyed the craftsmanship in Mousse Illuminee and Chypre Siam but would not wear either. Derviche on the other hand...hmmm...it's really nice, almost soothing in a way...
    A very nice impression and I'm glad you enjoy Derviche. This one will be second bottle from Rouge.
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    ExtremeK, l'll be surprised if l don't enjoy Derviche, too! Would you say it bears any similarity to Chergui?
    For me it didn't quite relate to Chergui. However they are both sweet and share an oriental feel particularly the ambery vanillan accord. They both share a tobacco note so you might be find some similarity there when you try it.
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  23. #503
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Mousse Illuminee offended people around me when I wore it so I won't be considering it. Too many people called me out for smelling like weed.
    OUCH. That’s too bad. Weed is banned here so most of the people I hang with don’t even know what weed smells like. Anyone else here got the weed reference?
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  24. #504
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    OUCH. That’s too bad. Weed is banned here so most of the people I hang with don’t even know what weed smells like. Anyone else here got the weed reference?
    Thanks to some of the students at my university, I am very familiar with the smell of weed wafting from people and clothing, but I didn't get a weed note from Mousse Illuminee. It does have vivid oakmoss, pine, and frankincense so I could see how some might interpret these notes in that way.
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Thanks to some of the students at my university, I am very familiar with the smell of weed wafting from people and clothing, but I didn't get a weed note from Mousse Illuminee. It does have vivid oakmoss, pine, and frankincense so I could see how some might interpret these notes in that way.
    No weed note for me either.

  26. #506
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    ExtremeK, l'll be surprised if l don't enjoy Derviche, too! Would you say it bears any similarity to Chergui?
    Chergui and Derviche are very different to my nose, with Chergui being more hay-focused with a touch of tobacco, while Derviche is all about tobacco. It seems to be primarily about amber and vanilla for NCal, but that's not my experience. On me, it's first and foremost a tobacco scent -- a warm, rich, sweet cherry leaf tobacco with a bit of tobacco smoke winding through it to lighten it and give it lift. It's more like Phaedon Tabac Rouge but not as dry. It's sort of like Tobacco Vanille, but, for me, Derviche stays focused on the tobacco while TV ends up being a vanilla gourmand. And Derviche is just better.

    I would categorize Derviche as a tobacco fragrance with a gourmand structure. Your mileage may vary.

    For Mousse Illuminee, I don't get a weed note at all, and neither did my husband. The people who mentioned it to NCal may be reacting to the combination of the vivid greenness and the smoke.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Thanks to some of the students at my university, I am very familiar with the smell of weed wafting from people and clothing, but I didn't get a weed note from Mousse Illuminee. It does have vivid oakmoss, pine, and frankincense so I could see how some might interpret these notes in that way.
    Agree 100% with this.

  27. #507

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Great impression. I'm in the minority to say that I do see similarities to this and Vintage Tabarome. TV does feel it bit more modern of the two while VT has a heavier and richer oakmoss accord.

    Which ones are you eyeing for a bottle of?
    Thanks! So far, Mousse Illumine and Tabac Vert are pretty likely purchases. Both would stand apart in my collection.

    Le Cantolier is great stuff, but as much as I enjoyed it, there are simply other things in that genre I think I prefer. Same with Cyphre Siam.

    On repeated sniffing, Fougere L'Aube is a little too sharp for my tastes, and it has such relentless power. I'll give Derviche another go...the base was lovely, warm, smooth, but I had trouble with that massive candy syrup fruity-jasmine opening.

    Excited to wrap up with Champs Luniares...it'll be a challenge to review, as I haven't been exposed to many tuberose soliflores for comparison. I do like the note - it's just not one I wear often.

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    No weed note for me either.
    Me neither. I suppose both aromas have that kind of full/sweet approach to green, but otherwise no.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  28. #508

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Chypre-Siam
    Opening smells like lime powder (dried and ground, as opposed to a fresh lime), and perfumey. Then fruity in a different way. 1960s hair salon, with smells of setting lotion, perming agents. Cinnamon, then cloves. Something ammoniac from time to time. Do I like this or not ?

    Le Canotier
    I get an opening of (1970s) floral gums, the really tiny perfumed kind, citrus and violet, slightly soapy, geranium, artemisia/tansy. This is not what I was expecting. I don't get the vetiver, but there is a green tobacco. The violet note lasts throughout, and is what lightens this scent.
    Spring/early summer rotation : Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge L'Eau; Etro Palais Jamais, Shaal Nur, Dianthus and Gomma; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling and Blenheim Bouquet; Comme des Garcons Zagorsk and Avignon; Dior Fahrenheit; and L.T. Piver Heliotrope
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  29. #509
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    Do I like this or not?
    You do.

  30. #510

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    You do.
    Certainly I like it more than my brief wearing of

    Mousse Illuminee : The opening was stunning, and I found it interesting, but then it became too much. The projection was considerable (through heavy sweater, wool overcoat and gloves). This is not as I remember Polo (a smoother mix) or oakmoss (not as high-pitched). I had to wash it off, with soap, and still it lingered. What remains a few hours later is much smoother and more wearable. I might give this one a full wearing over a day to see how long it takes to get to that (after-wash) drydown. I detect no weed either.

    Le Canotier is my favourite so far, with Derviche runner-up.

    ETA : The far drydown of Chypre-Siam is pretty nice, is there a leather note ?
    Spring/early summer rotation : Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge L'Eau; Etro Palais Jamais, Shaal Nur, Dianthus and Gomma; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling and Blenheim Bouquet; Comme des Garcons Zagorsk and Avignon; Dior Fahrenheit; and L.T. Piver Heliotrope
    Currently wearing: Gomma by Etro




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