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  1. #181

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Creed Vintage Tabarome

    Leathery, musky, animalic opening. Reminds me of vintage Anteaus. This has some real character. It's bold. There's a touch of subtle citrus in the background. Hints of patchouli and sandalwood in the heart. I can barely detect tobacco if any. I recognize a bit of crisp ginger in the drydown and modest fruit. Very nice scent. You asked my comparison to Tabac Vert, I get much less tobacco in Tabarome, and it's both stronger and more complex. I haven't been a big fan of tobacco in general, so much prefer the Creed.
    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
    daviddavid.net
    And my art store on Etsy

    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com

  2. #182

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Fresh from the press a brand new release (Coming Soon) called Fougere L’Aube

    https://rogueperfumery.com/2019/01/3...a-cool-spring/

    https://rogueperfumery.com/2019/02/0...-laube-update/
    I'm looking forward to this one as well! I've been hoping Manny would do a fougere

  3. #183

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Back to the Rogue Perfumery scents.

    Derviche

    Opens very nicely. I get labdanum and vanilla. It's creamy with hints of caramel. The bergamot is tart in the background. I didn't find much evolution through the heart or drydown, but it was lovely. Great longevity. I smelled it the next morning (10 hours after application.)
    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
    daviddavid.net
    And my art store on Etsy

    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com

  4. #184
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    Back to the Rogue Perfumery scents.

    Derviche

    Opens very nicely. I get labdanum and vanilla. It's creamy with hints of caramel. The bergamot is tart in the background. I didn't find much evolution through the heart or drydown, but it was lovely. Great longevity. I smelled it the next morning (10 hours after application.)
    I enjoyed this one a lot. It had a nice oriental feel. I made the comparison of it smelling similar to Ambre Narguile particularly in the later stages. Would you consider a bottle?
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
    Currently wearing: Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

  5. #185
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    Creed Vintage Tabarome

    Leathery, musky, animalic opening. Reminds me of vintage Anteaus. This has some real character. It's bold. There's a touch of subtle citrus in the background. Hints of patchouli and sandalwood in the heart. I can barely detect tobacco if any. I recognize a bit of crisp ginger in the drydown and modest fruit. Very nice scent. You asked my comparison to Tabac Vert, I get much less tobacco in Tabarome, and it's both stronger and more complex. I haven't been a big fan of tobacco in general, so much prefer the Creed.
    I didn't get much tobacco with VT either. The oakmoss was the dominating note in the scent but I did pick up on some bergamot, pepper spices, amber, and wood notes as well. IMO VT is by far the better of the two but I felt that Tabac Vert would be a nice alternative.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
    Currently wearing: Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

  6. #186

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I enjoyed this one a lot. It had a nice oriental feel. I made the comparison of it smelling similar to Ambre Narguile particularly in the later stages. Would you consider a bottle?
    It was a nice fragrance but didn't tip the scales for me to want a bottle.

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I didn't get much tobacco with VT either. The oakmoss was the dominating note in the scent but I did pick up on some bergamot, pepper spices, amber, and wood notes as well. IMO VT is by far the better of the two but I felt that Tabac Vert would be a nice alternative.
    They didn't seem very similar to me, but then again, I think I just don't like tobacco scents although Vintage Tabarome lists tobacco, but I hardly get any from it, and I liked it quite a bit. Perhaps I only like tobacco when you can't smell it.
    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
    daviddavid.net
    And my art store on Etsy

    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com

  7. #187

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Mousse Illuminee

    Mossy incense counterbalanced by sharp florals in the opening. The incense is dense like a cloud of pollen while the moss is dark green and alive like algae on a pond. A unique combination that I haven't come across before, and I've explored quite a few incense frags. Something sweet and candied comes out in the heart that could be the laurel leaves or the white flowers. The green then becomes coniferous in the heart, almost like pine. Drydown is a gentle musk and woods 10 hours later. Potent projection, the strongest of the set. Very nice fragrance and definitely my favorite.
    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
    daviddavid.net
    And my art store on Etsy

    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com

  8. #188

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Fougere L'Aube now available... already ordered a sample

  9. #189

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyboi View Post
    Fougere L'Aube now available... already ordered a sample
    Nice, just ordered a sample myself, along with one of Derviche.

  10. #190

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Notes on the last two vintage Creed's that N.CAL included in the pass:

    Creed Bayrhum Vetiver

    Very rich pepper opening. Fragrant bay leaves that actually do remind me of rum. Well done there. The vetiver enters in the heart, it's on the green side. Pleasant. A bit herbal but not rooty. It doesn't evolve much beyond those base notes, but a nice fragrance.

    Creed Verveine Narcisse

    A green lemony opening. Definitely verbena. Aquatic notes like a briny ocean water enter next. The drydown is mildly mossy/musky. It became a skin scent quickly for me. Found it to be rather modest.

    Thanks again to N.CAL for organizing this and allowing me to participate. The package has been mailed on to Zephyr1973 and should arrive on Tuesday.


    A Greater Monster, The Kickstarter Letters & Death by Zamboni
    daviddavid.net
    And my art store on Etsy

    > Gold Medal for "Outstanding Book of the Year" in Independent Publisher Book Awards
    > National Indie Excellence Book Award finalist
    > A Greater Monster named a "Top 10 Book of 2012" by Common Ills blog
    > Listed in "10 Hot Chicago Reads for Chilly Nights" on Refinery29.com

  11. #191
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Thanks to N.Cal for setting this up, Manny for making these, and Jux for holding down the fort with the reviews for the past week or so. I've been sitting on the samples for at least two weeks now but haven't had time for BN as of late. But I did give everything a few wears and take some notes, finally got around to consolidating everything today:

    Chypre Siam

    CS is very much a throwback classic chypre, in a fairly uncomplicated form which I very much appreciate. There surely are other "old chypre done today" examples out there, some neoclassical (aka updated) some classical - Bogue's Maai and new 07738, Chypre Palatin, Au Dela/AD Narcisse, Dryad, etc. all of which I think are very nice (abs love ADN)but all are adorned in one form or another that takes them beyond (what I consider) the basic chypre, aside from maybe the original Au Dela. Chypre Siam is more what I consider a stripped-down chypre.

    I've long had a desire to travel back in time and smell vintage perfumes when they were first bottled and sold. I have a little 7ml spray of Givenchy III extrait from the late 70's, and it smells great, but I have to imagine some top notes are gone, and while it, to me, has aged gracefully, I'm not under the impression that it smells exactly as it did 40 years ago, well before I was a twinkle in my parents eye.

    While I also don't know if Chypre Siam smells like a freshly bottled from the 70's, I can pretend it does and that is plenty enjoyable for me. Well done.

    Derviche

    Perhaps the most modern of the lot. I'm not sure if anyone else made the connection, but the first 20 seconds of the opening salvo remind me of Leather Oud (Dior not Floris), that intense "black and sparkly" carnal woodiness that makes Leather Oud Leather Oud. Anyone else get that? I'm not sure if Manny uses animalics in his stuff, but if he does, they're probably in here.

    Overall it smells like the most oriental in the line up. Woody (sandal or cedar), slightly sweet and resinous (labdanum maybe), very slightly/just barely floral (jasmine or something like it), and musky. Not funky musky, but warmly animalic and inviting. I like this but have others in this realm that I prefer.

    Tabac Vert

    A mix of old school and new, with definite green/herbal overtones throughout. I could see this being something from the early 80's with notes like clary sage, artemisia, cistus, oakmoss, tobacco, leather, etc. It doesn't smell like clary sage and artemisia exactly, but smells like something from that era that is green, herbal, and virile.

    Overall I wasn't super jazzed by this but I think it is a solid outing. It smells a little like a vintage leather a la Creed Tabarome (vint.), which, while I also appreciate that for what it is, I am not all that jazzed by the Creed either.

    I don't get a ton of tobacco here, which is par for the course with most tobacco scents I've tried. The two that really scratch the tobacco itch for me are SSS Tabac Aurea and Slumberhouse Baque. Perhaps it's not fair to compare them to Tabac Vert, because I don't think TV was intended to be that style of blonde pipe tobacco.

    Champs Luniares

    To the surprise of no one, myself included, this tuberose cannon came to me having the most full vial. A little tuberose goes a long way, and this has loads of it. I'd say 90% of the time, I am absolutely enamored by tuberose-heavy fragrances, and this case falls within that percentile. Tuberose to the gills in all it's salicylate/slightly minty and intoxicating white floral glory. I don't know when it started or with what perfume, but tuberose (when I like it) has always conjured tropical scenery for me, and a slow-paced carefree environment. It's quite exotic smelling.

    I don't have much more to say about it. I really don't get much beyond a giant white floral wave lead by tuberose. I'm so used to gardenia fragrances just being tuberose-heavy white florals that I sort of mentally use the two flowers interchangeably, but since I think I maybe smelled gardenias in the wild (not literally, at a wedding and maybe in HI once) once or twice, I associate this smell with tuby.

    Perhaps not quite as luxurious and exotic as Dusita's Le Melodie de Amour, which I find absolutely eye-rolling, this is among the nicest tuby solos I have tried. I'm curious to try Kiler's tuberose now.

    Le Cantonier

    This was my least favorite, even though the first time I sniffed it in passing on a strip I kind of liked it. I find it quite angular and harsh, almost high-pitched - which isn't to say I think it's a "bad perfume" it's just that this style/genre just isn't my bag, so there's really no way to get me to enjoy this or anything similar to it. This had almost just as much left as Champs Luniares, so perhaps others felt similarly. As with nearly all fragrance, 5-10 minutes into the wearing it tightens up and settles down, but it remains too high-pitched for me to enjoy.

    What I picked up note wise was interestingly a mix of stuff I really like, primarily violet leaf of something like it and a mossy accord, but for me, things like this are the olfactory equivlant to having really dry eyes and having to blink a lot. Pass for me.

    Mousse Illuminee

    Saved the best for last. The barbershop entry and it is excellent. This was my favorite from the pass.

    Summed up, I found it to be a chock-full-of-coumarin version of a cross between vintage Polo and Patrick Ireland, although really MI is entirely its own thing and the better for it. It is richly soapy, coniferous, soft and spaciously floral (Lyral), coumarin sweet (as in, not very sweet but earthy-sweet), and just smells awfully f***ing good. The only other modern scent that I've smelled this level of delicious coumarin in is, interestingly now that I think about it, another Dusita - Issara. If you loved Issara but hated the price tag, I strongly recommend checking this out. They don't exactly smell the same, and the openings are way different, but the bases satisfy a similar urge that I have for unhindered coumarin.

    Since Manny took the time to learn perfumery and make this, I gave him a sneak peek of my thoughts. C&P below with some minor edits:

    Being a long-time vintage fan (-removed-) I immediately jumped for Mousse. Instant like. One hell of an opening, taking the green conifer/soapy deal to a place somewhere between Polo and Patrick Ireland, but with an overtly natural and non-spiky feel. The base, wonderful. I'm by no means interested in attempting to make perfume myself, but I've a load of natural and synth materials that I like to dilute and sniff just to find my way around actual fragrance that I'm sniffing, and one of my favorite smells is coumarin - is it just me or is MI absolutely loaded with the stuff? I know hay abs. is also quite coumarinic, but this smells like the real deal and lots of it. So good man, it's outstanding.

    Also noteworthy in MI is the development. While I do wish the top stuck around, I'm always pleased to smell something that is practically totally different in the opening than it is in the base. I'm more engaged with obvious evolution. I don't really smell that coumarinic vibe in the top that strongly amongst the mossy conifers, I totally lose the soapy piney aspect in the base. I'm a fan. I don't know if you've tried any of the Dusita line, but the tasty base of yours reminds me of the base of Issara. If you haven't tried it, that's a compliment
    All in all I enjoyed quite a bit. I'll definitely be going for a sample of the new fougere and surely any and all future releases.

    Will post thoughts on the Creeds tomorrow and send to the next recipient on Tuesday or Wednesday.

  12. #192
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyboi View Post
    Fougere L'Aube now available... already ordered a sample

    Quote Originally Posted by SmellYouLater View Post
    Nice, just ordered a sample myself, along with one of Derviche.
    I do look forward to hearing both of your thoughts on Fougere L'Aube. Let's add this one to the Basenotes Directory.

    Manny made a new post on this fragrance a few days ago, fresh from the press:
    https://rogueperfumery.com/2019/02/1...now-available/

    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

    Fragrance Reviews:http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/13373062

    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
    Currently wearing: Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

  13. #193
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Thanks to N.Cal for setting this up, Manny for making these, and Jux for holding down the fort with the reviews for the past week or so. I've been sitting on the samples for at least two weeks now but haven't had time for BN as of late. But I did give everything a few wears and take some notes, finally got around to consolidating everything today:

    Chypre Siam

    CS is very much a throwback classic chypre, in a fairly uncomplicated form which I very much appreciate. There surely are other "old chypre done today" examples out there, some neoclassical (aka updated) some classical - Bogue's Maai and new 07738, Chypre Palatin, Au Dela/AD Narcisse, Dryad, etc. all of which I think are very nice (abs love ADN)but all are adorned in one form or another that takes them beyond (what I consider) the basic chypre, aside from maybe the original Au Dela. Chypre Siam is more what I consider a stripped-down chypre.

    I've long had a desire to travel back in time and smell vintage perfumes when they were first bottled and sold. I have a little 7ml spray of Givenchy III extrait from the late 70's, and it smells great, but I have to imagine some top notes are gone, and while it, to me, has aged gracefully, I'm not under the impression that it smells exactly as it did 40 years ago, well before I was a twinkle in my parents eye.

    While I also don't know if Chypre Siam smells like a freshly bottled from the 70's, I can pretend it does and that is plenty enjoyable for me. Well done.

    Derviche

    Perhaps the most modern of the lot. I'm not sure if anyone else made the connection, but the first 20 seconds of the opening salvo remind me of Leather Oud (Dior not Floris), that intense "black and sparkly" carnal woodiness that makes Leather Oud Leather Oud. Anyone else get that? I'm not sure if Manny uses animalics in his stuff, but if he does, they're probably in here.

    Overall it smells like the most oriental in the line up. Woody (sandal or cedar), slightly sweet and resinous (labdanum maybe), very slightly/just barely floral (jasmine or something like it), and musky. Not funky musky, but warmly animalic and inviting. I like this but have others in this realm that I prefer.

    Tabac Vert

    A mix of old school and new, with definite green/herbal overtones throughout. I could see this being something from the early 80's with notes like clary sage, artemisia, cistus, oakmoss, tobacco, leather, etc. It doesn't smell like clary sage and artemisia exactly, but smells like something from that era that is green, herbal, and virile.

    Overall I wasn't super jazzed by this but I think it is a solid outing. It smells a little like a vintage leather a la Creed Tabarome (vint.), which, while I also appreciate that for what it is, I am not all that jazzed by the Creed either.

    I don't get a ton of tobacco here, which is par for the course with most tobacco scents I've tried. The two that really scratch the tobacco itch for me are SSS Tabac Aurea and Slumberhouse Baque. Perhaps it's not fair to compare them to Tabac Vert, because I don't think TV was intended to be that style of blonde pipe tobacco.

    Champs Luniares

    To the surprise of no one, myself included, this tuberose cannon came to me having the most full vial. A little tuberose goes a long way, and this has loads of it. I'd say 90% of the time, I am absolutely enamored by tuberose-heavy fragrances, and this case falls within that percentile. Tuberose to the gills in all it's salicylate/slightly minty and intoxicating white floral glory. I don't know when it started or with what perfume, but tuberose (when I like it) has always conjured tropical scenery for me, and a slow-paced carefree environment. It's quite exotic smelling.

    I don't have much more to say about it. I really don't get much beyond a giant white floral wave lead by tuberose. I'm so used to gardenia fragrances just being tuberose-heavy white florals that I sort of mentally use the two flowers interchangeably, but since I think I maybe smelled gardenias in the wild (not literally, at a wedding and maybe in HI once) once or twice, I associate this smell with tuby.

    Perhaps not quite as luxurious and exotic as Dusita's Le Melodie de Amour, which I find absolutely eye-rolling, this is among the nicest tuby solos I have tried. I'm curious to try Kiler's tuberose now.

    Le Cantonier

    This was my least favorite, even though the first time I sniffed it in passing on a strip I kind of liked it. I find it quite angular and harsh, almost high-pitched - which isn't to say I think it's a "bad perfume" it's just that this style/genre just isn't my bag, so there's really no way to get me to enjoy this or anything similar to it. This had almost just as much left as Champs Luniares, so perhaps others felt similarly. As with nearly all fragrance, 5-10 minutes into the wearing it tightens up and settles down, but it remains too high-pitched for me to enjoy.

    What I picked up note wise was interestingly a mix of stuff I really like, primarily violet leaf of something like it and a mossy accord, but for me, things like this are the olfactory equivlant to having really dry eyes and having to blink a lot. Pass for me.

    Mousse Illuminee

    Saved the best for last. The barbershop entry and it is excellent. This was my favorite from the pass.

    Summed up, I found it to be a chock-full-of-coumarin version of a cross between vintage Polo and Patrick Ireland, although really MI is entirely its own thing and the better for it. It is richly soapy, coniferous, soft and spaciously floral (Lyral), coumarin sweet (as in, not very sweet but earthy-sweet), and just smells awfully f***ing good. The only other modern scent that I've smelled this level of delicious coumarin in is, interestingly now that I think about it, another Dusita - Issara. If you loved Issara but hated the price tag, I strongly recommend checking this out. They don't exactly smell the same, and the openings are way different, but the bases satisfy a similar urge that I have for unhindered coumarin.

    Since Manny took the time to learn perfumery and make this, I gave him a sneak peek of my thoughts. C&P below with some minor edits:



    All in all I enjoyed quite a bit. I'll definitely be going for a sample of the new fougere and surely any and all future releases.

    Will post thoughts on the Creeds tomorrow and send to the next recipient on Tuesday or Wednesday.
    Superb job IsoE! Well done I look forward to hearing your thoughts on Creed
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

    Fragrance Reviews:http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/13373062

    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
    Currently wearing: Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

  14. #194
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Ponyboi View Post
    Fougere L'Aube now available... already ordered a sample
    Nice! I’m excited. I ordered a sample as well!
    It’s tragic to think that heroic man’s great destiny is to become economic man, that men will be reduced to craven creatures who crawl across the globe competing for money, who spend their nights dreaming up new ways to swindle each other.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  15. #195

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I do look forward to hearing both of your thoughts on Fougere L'Aube.
    I shall report back will my findings after sampling

  16. #196
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    UPDATE 02/18/19: I have spoken to Manny. To confirm, Fougere L'Aube will be part of the Rogue Perfumery Sample Pass in the form of an extended package. Everyone will get a chance to sample this new release!
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

    Fragrance Reviews:http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/13373062

    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
    Currently wearing: Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

  17. #197
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    I'm looking forward to sniffing these!

    I've enjoyed reading the reviews

  18. #198

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Thanks to N.Cal for setting this up, Manny for making these, and Jux for holding down the fort with the reviews for the past week or so. I've been sitting on the samples for at least two weeks now but haven't had time for BN as of late. But I did give everything a few wears and take some notes, finally got around to consolidating everything today:

    Chypre Siam

    CS is very much a throwback classic chypre, in a fairly uncomplicated form which I very much appreciate. There surely are other "old chypre done today" examples out there, some neoclassical (aka updated) some classical - Bogue's Maai and new 07738, Chypre Palatin, Au Dela/AD Narcisse, Dryad, etc. all of which I think are very nice (abs love ADN)but all are adorned in one form or another that takes them beyond (what I consider) the basic chypre, aside from maybe the original Au Dela. Chypre Siam is more what I consider a stripped-down chypre.

    I've long had a desire to travel back in time and smell vintage perfumes when they were first bottled and sold. I have a little 7ml spray of Givenchy III extrait from the late 70's, and it smells great, but I have to imagine some top notes are gone, and while it, to me, has aged gracefully, I'm not under the impression that it smells exactly as it did 40 years ago, well before I was a twinkle in my parents eye.

    While I also don't know if Chypre Siam smells like a freshly bottled from the 70's, I can pretend it does and that is plenty enjoyable for me. Well done.

    Derviche

    Perhaps the most modern of the lot. I'm not sure if anyone else made the connection, but the first 20 seconds of the opening salvo remind me of Leather Oud (Dior not Floris), that intense "black and sparkly" carnal woodiness that makes Leather Oud Leather Oud. Anyone else get that? I'm not sure if Manny uses animalics in his stuff, but if he does, they're probably in here.

    Overall it smells like the most oriental in the line up. Woody (sandal or cedar), slightly sweet and resinous (labdanum maybe), very slightly/just barely floral (jasmine or something like it), and musky. Not funky musky, but warmly animalic and inviting. I like this but have others in this realm that I prefer.

    Tabac Vert

    A mix of old school and new, with definite green/herbal overtones throughout. I could see this being something from the early 80's with notes like clary sage, artemisia, cistus, oakmoss, tobacco, leather, etc. It doesn't smell like clary sage and artemisia exactly, but smells like something from that era that is green, herbal, and virile.

    Overall I wasn't super jazzed by this but I think it is a solid outing. It smells a little like a vintage leather a la Creed Tabarome (vint.), which, while I also appreciate that for what it is, I am not all that jazzed by the Creed either.

    I don't get a ton of tobacco here, which is par for the course with most tobacco scents I've tried. The two that really scratch the tobacco itch for me are SSS Tabac Aurea and Slumberhouse Baque. Perhaps it's not fair to compare them to Tabac Vert, because I don't think TV was intended to be that style of blonde pipe tobacco.

    Champs Luniares

    To the surprise of no one, myself included, this tuberose cannon came to me having the most full vial. A little tuberose goes a long way, and this has loads of it. I'd say 90% of the time, I am absolutely enamored by tuberose-heavy fragrances, and this case falls within that percentile. Tuberose to the gills in all it's salicylate/slightly minty and intoxicating white floral glory. I don't know when it started or with what perfume, but tuberose (when I like it) has always conjured tropical scenery for me, and a slow-paced carefree environment. It's quite exotic smelling.

    I don't have much more to say about it. I really don't get much beyond a giant white floral wave lead by tuberose. I'm so used to gardenia fragrances just being tuberose-heavy white florals that I sort of mentally use the two flowers interchangeably, but since I think I maybe smelled gardenias in the wild (not literally, at a wedding and maybe in HI once) once or twice, I associate this smell with tuby.

    Perhaps not quite as luxurious and exotic as Dusita's Le Melodie de Amour, which I find absolutely eye-rolling, this is among the nicest tuby solos I have tried. I'm curious to try Kiler's tuberose now.

    Le Cantonier

    This was my least favorite, even though the first time I sniffed it in passing on a strip I kind of liked it. I find it quite angular and harsh, almost high-pitched - which isn't to say I think it's a "bad perfume" it's just that this style/genre just isn't my bag, so there's really no way to get me to enjoy this or anything similar to it. This had almost just as much left as Champs Luniares, so perhaps others felt similarly. As with nearly all fragrance, 5-10 minutes into the wearing it tightens up and settles down, but it remains too high-pitched for me to enjoy.

    What I picked up note wise was interestingly a mix of stuff I really like, primarily violet leaf of something like it and a mossy accord, but for me, things like this are the olfactory equivlant to having really dry eyes and having to blink a lot. Pass for me.

    Mousse Illuminee

    Saved the best for last. The barbershop entry and it is excellent. This was my favorite from the pass.

    Summed up, I found it to be a chock-full-of-coumarin version of a cross between vintage Polo and Patrick Ireland, although really MI is entirely its own thing and the better for it. It is richly soapy, coniferous, soft and spaciously floral (Lyral), coumarin sweet (as in, not very sweet but earthy-sweet), and just smells awfully f***ing good. The only other modern scent that I've smelled this level of delicious coumarin in is, interestingly now that I think about it, another Dusita - Issara. If you loved Issara but hated the price tag, I strongly recommend checking this out. They don't exactly smell the same, and the openings are way different, but the bases satisfy a similar urge that I have for unhindered coumarin.

    Since Manny took the time to learn perfumery and make this, I gave him a sneak peek of my thoughts. C&P below with some minor edits:



    All in all I enjoyed quite a bit. I'll definitely be going for a sample of the new fougere and surely any and all future releases.

    Will post thoughts on the Creeds tomorrow and send to the next recipient on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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  19. #199

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    IsoESuperman - Thank you for your write up and impressions (Post #191). Very insightful and appreciated.

  20. #200
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Not part of the pass, but did order a couple samples of Siam and Mousse, and as promised will share some thoughts...

    Siam- The very first thought at initial whiff was Roja Dove. It offers that high quality ingredient aura of many Rojas that I’ve tried. It also has the same baby wipe background scent I get from Roja Haute Luxe and Diaghilev. It’s a nice softer scent with florals that don’t overwhelm it.

    Mousse- This is also very nice! If you like the clean of Patrick and moss aspect of Trumpers Eucris, you will love this. There is also a nice slightly woody/spicy drydown that I find very appealing.

    Mousse would be my favorite, but they are both FB worthy to me


    Update: The Siam drydown is phenomenal! Even better than the Mousse drydown!
    Last edited by Cheetah1919; 19th February 2019 at 10:10 PM.

  21. #201
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    The fougere just got delivered. I shall test it later on or tomorrow.

  22. #202

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheetah1919 View Post
    It also has the same baby wipe background scent I get from Roja Haute Luxe and Diaghilev.
    Probably isomethyl ionone. Very good quality ones too (most likely the alpha variety, they are the smoothest type IMO), gives a creamy lift at the beginning and dries down woodier compared to other ionones that can vary in fruitiness. Back in the day methyl ionone was extremely popular ever since it replaced violet flower enfleurage.

  23. #203
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by HauteParfumGourmand View Post
    Probably isomethyl ionone. Very good quality ones too (most likely the alpha variety, they are the smoothest type IMO), gives a creamy lift at the beginning and dries down woodier compared to other ionones that can vary in fruitiness. Back in the day methyl ionone was extremely popular ever since it replaced violet flower enfleurage.
    Thanks for that info! I’ve always wondered why I smell that in these obviously high quality Rojas and other fragrances.

  24. #204
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    And last but not least, the older Creeds:
    ______

    Verveine Narcisse

    Just plain pretty. A fresh citrus, herbal, and floral opening with bits of the old-school Creed base already peeking through. Bright and happy, a really tight accord that seems executed with great care and attention to detail. Kind of lemony/orangey, maybe petitgrain and a touch of white citrus florals (like orange blossom, but not as intense/heady). The base reminds me most of Chèvrefeuille Original and Sélection Verte (and also MPeG Fraîche Badiane, which I think smells surprisingly like Selection Verte espcially in the base).

    Outside of smelling other products that are verbena scented (like Myers Lemon Verbena hand soap) I'm not sure I've smelled it in the wild and now that I think about it, have no idea what it is supposed to smell like. Perhaps that is what this floral is. It kind of reminds me of honeysuckle a little bit (sweet and slightly fruity, but clean and light), funny enough much more so than Chèvrefeuille Orig. Whatever it is, it smells really nice. This, as has nearly every older creed I've tried, smells great.

    On paper it stays green and herbal for a really long time, getting almost minty, but on my skin it it mainly floral then that good old Creed base. On paper it reminds me of the same rather natural bright/happy/clean/fresh yet distinctive and original feel that Aubépine-Acacia had (also really liked that). I wonder if they shared the same perfumer. Nikoli Tesla's dad maybe? I think it came out around them.

    Oh and I don't smell narcissus here but I do like what I can smell, very much. Up there with Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare for excellent floral outings from the house. I mean...I almost want to call this flawless. I won't, and I don't throw that around, but this is really

    Vintage Tabaróme

    Tabaróme is one of those classic vintage leather fragrances, I'd put it in the same, and very general, category as things like Bel Ami, Fendi Uomo, Gomma, Knize Ten, etc., and to a much lesser extent, Moschino pour Homme. It doesn't smell like them exactly, but that same style of oriental spiced and/or ambery masculine leather. Tabaróme, whether just from the smoothing over that Creed is fond of, or from actual composition, smells like one of the most stripped back and simplistic examples in that sub-genre. Not a bad thing in my book, just an observation.

    I find it fairly linear, starting out with just a louder and more robust version of what the base holds. It smells nice throughout so I don't not mind the lack of twists and turns. I'm not smitten, but I think it's a solid effort. This has a touch of Victorian dandy flair to it, I'm not exactly sure why I think that, but that's the impression it gives. Bel Ami also has it, to a less obvious degree. Fendi Uomo does not, and the vibe of Gomma and Knize Ten are fairly different.

    And whether the power of suggestion or not, I went to Fragrantica to see of anything I thought it smelled like got marked as being similar and to my surprise I saw Onda there as the one with the most affirmations - at first I wrote it off as another case of the notes and/or smells likes being way, way off over there, but after sniffing Tabaróme on my arm a few times, there is the slightest bit of something that does indeed remind me of the ultra weird (to me) yet captivating Onda, in Volie d'Extrait form at least. That kind of airy/spicy coriander and ginger thing that is going on in Onda is a little bit present in the Creed. Now whether I'd have made that connection on my own or not...I kind of doubt it, but maybe.

    Bayrhum-Vetiver

    Does what it says in the name, at least for the bay rum part. Vetiver I do not smell outright, but after smelling this a few times I can see vetiver playing a backing role with the herbal/spicy and nigh funky salvo in the background. I actually think this might be my favorite of the three, in terms of what I'd wear most often.

    Another one that behaves moderately differently on skin and paper. I like it better on me. On paper, this has a well-heeled funk that never lets up. Spiced bay rum, heavy on the bay, not so much on the rum, and this weird half-herbal, half-animal funk that makes it smell like something that belongs in an ancient battlefield poultice. On skin, this is a throwback bay rum scent with plenty of cloves, bay, and, well, that bay rum smell. I practically never wear bay rum but like to douse my pillow with it in the summer when it's humid.

    I really like this one. While still having an unusually polished and rounded yet still pungent vintage quality, it smells the 'least Creed' of the trio, which is another neutral observation, because if it wasn't clear by now I am a fan of the older Creed and of non-Creed vintage stuff.
    ______

    Thanks again to N.Cal for throwing these in there. When I first discovered Baie de Genièvre and started digging into older Creeds, I was quite positive that I'd never get to smell Bayrhum Vetiver, and I'm not even sure I knew Verveine Narcisse existed - so colored me pleased to have been able to sniff and enjoy them. Cheers N.Cal and again cheers to Manny for his work Looking forward to trying the new fougere.

  25. #205
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheetah1919 View Post
    Not part of the pass, but did order a couple samples of Siam and Mousse, and as promised will share some thoughts...

    Siam- The very first thought at initial whiff was Roja Dove. It offers that high quality ingredient aura of many Rojas that I’ve tried. It also has the same baby wipe background scent I get from Roja Haute Luxe and Diaghilev. It’s a nice softer scent with florals that don’t overwhelm it.

    Mousse- This is also very nice! If you like the clean of Patrick and moss aspect of Trumpers Eucris, you will love this. There is also a nice slightly woody/spicy drydown that I find very appealing.

    Mousse would be my favorite, but they are both FB worthy to me


    Update: The Siam drydown is phenomenal! Even better than the Mousse drydown!
    Thanks for sharing your impressions

    I prefer Chypre-Siam over Mousse Illuminee.
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  26. #206
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Deleted - wrong thread - Sorry a third time.
    hednic since you posted 3 times, I recommend you give Rouge Perfumery a try. You might enjoy it
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  27. #207
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    And last but not least, the older Creeds:
    ______

    Verveine Narcisse

    Just plain pretty. A fresh citrus, herbal, and floral opening with bits of the old-school Creed base already peeking through. Bright and happy, a really tight accord that seems executed with great care and attention to detail. Kind of lemony/orangey, maybe petitgrain and a touch of white citrus florals (like orange blossom, but not as intense/heady). The base reminds me most of Chèvrefeuille Original and Sélection Verte (and also MPeG Fraîche Badiane, which I think smells surprisingly like Selection Verte espcially in the base).

    Outside of smelling other products that are verbena scented (like Myers Lemon Verbena hand soap) I'm not sure I've smelled it in the wild and now that I think about it, have no idea what it is supposed to smell like. Perhaps that is what this floral is. It kind of reminds me of honeysuckle a little bit (sweet and slightly fruity, but clean and light), funny enough much more so than Chèvrefeuille Orig. Whatever it is, it smells really nice. This, as has nearly every older creed I've tried, smells great.

    On paper it stays green and herbal for a really long time, getting almost minty, but on my skin it it mainly floral then that good old Creed base. On paper it reminds me of the same rather natural bright/happy/clean/fresh yet distinctive and original feel that Aubépine-Acacia had (also really liked that). I wonder if they shared the same perfumer. Nikoli Tesla's dad maybe? I think it came out around them.

    Oh and I don't smell narcissus here but I do like what I can smell, very much. Up there with Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare for excellent floral outings from the house. I mean...I almost want to call this flawless. I won't, and I don't throw that around, but this is really

    Vintage Tabaróme

    Tabaróme is one of those classic vintage leather fragrances, I'd put it in the same, and very general, category as things like Bel Ami, Fendi Uomo, Gomma, Knize Ten, etc., and to a much lesser extent, Moschino pour Homme. It doesn't smell like them exactly, but that same style of oriental spiced and/or ambery masculine leather. Tabaróme, whether just from the smoothing over that Creed is fond of, or from actual composition, smells like one of the most stripped back and simplistic examples in that sub-genre. Not a bad thing in my book, just an observation.

    I find it fairly linear, starting out with just a louder and more robust version of what the base holds. It smells nice throughout so I don't not mind the lack of twists and turns. I'm not smitten, but I think it's a solid effort. This has a touch of Victorian dandy flair to it, I'm not exactly sure why I think that, but that's the impression it gives. Bel Ami also has it, to a less obvious degree. Fendi Uomo does not, and the vibe of Gomma and Knize Ten are fairly different.

    And whether the power of suggestion or not, I went to Fragrantica to see of anything I thought it smelled like got marked as being similar and to my surprise I saw Onda there as the one with the most affirmations - at first I wrote it off as another case of the notes and/or smells likes being way, way off over there, but after sniffing Tabaróme on my arm a few times, there is the slightest bit of something that does indeed remind me of the ultra weird (to me) yet captivating Onda, in Volie d'Extrait form at least. That kind of airy/spicy coriander and ginger thing that is going on in Onda is a little bit present in the Creed. Now whether I'd have made that connection on my own or not...I kind of doubt it, but maybe.

    Bayrhum-Vetiver

    Does what it says in the name, at least for the bay rum part. Vetiver I do not smell outright, but after smelling this a few times I can see vetiver playing a backing role with the herbal/spicy and nigh funky salvo in the background. I actually think this might be my favorite of the three, in terms of what I'd wear most often.

    Another one that behaves moderately differently on skin and paper. I like it better on me. On paper, this has a well-heeled funk that never lets up. Spiced bay rum, heavy on the bay, not so much on the rum, and this weird half-herbal, half-animal funk that makes it smell like something that belongs in an ancient battlefield poultice. On skin, this is a throwback bay rum scent with plenty of cloves, bay, and, well, that bay rum smell. I practically never wear bay rum but like to douse my pillow with it in the summer when it's humid.

    I really like this one. While still having an unusually polished and rounded yet still pungent vintage quality, it smells the 'least Creed' of the trio, which is another neutral observation, because if it wasn't clear by now I am a fan of the older Creed and of non-Creed vintage stuff.
    ______

    Thanks again to N.Cal for throwing these in there. When I first discovered Baie de Genièvre and started digging into older Creeds, I was quite positive that I'd never get to smell Bayrhum Vetiver, and I'm not even sure I knew Verveine Narcisse existed - so colored me pleased to have been able to sniff and enjoy them. Cheers N.Cal and again cheers to Manny for his work Looking forward to trying the new fougere.
    A job well done IsoE
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  28. #208

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    lsoE, "ancient battlefield poultice" is a phrase l've never seen before in a perfume review, but what an inspired description, thanks for this!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  29. #209
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Mr N.Cal, I was wondering if I could perhaps partake in the pass around? I'm a Europe'er, specifically UK, and Rogue Perfumery has recently caught my eye! Let me know if there are any issues.

    P.s. keep up the good reviews chaps/chapettes, they're a fantastic read!

  30. #210
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Anybody have any first impressions of Fougere L'Aube? I'm pretty excited to try it.
    It’s tragic to think that heroic man’s great destiny is to become economic man, that men will be reduced to craven creatures who crawl across the globe competing for money, who spend their nights dreaming up new ways to swindle each other.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain




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