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  1. #1

    Default Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    I'm a newbie - been at this for 8 months - and I seem to be trapped by ambrox and iso e. No matter what new fragrance I create, it always seems to dry down to the same old smell. I can't seem to escape it. I've bought a few ouds to switch things up but I'm not a big fan. Iso e, ambrox and sandalwood! There has to be something nicer lol.

    Does anyone have any good suggestions of nice, balsamic base notes for my fragrances? I definitely lean more towards gourmand scents so I'm looking for a nice, sweet and complex base note to build my fragrances around. To be honest though, I just want something different, anything to get me away from the same old dry down. I use a lot of vanilla, tonka, benzoin and coumarin so a nice, complex and balsamic basenote which combines with them would be perfect.

    I've been looking at attars but I don't really know much about them. So does anyone have any good ideas? I'm putting in an order from perfumers apprentice this week so any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    At one time I too had the 5 base note problems lol I had to make a concerted effort to get more and still have to make an effort to use more things. As has been said here before. The magic happens outside of your comfort zone. Even gourmands and orientals have more things in them than balsamic! You will make better formulas when you have the materials to design better.

    I love every robertet material I've ever tried. Bois D' Encense, beeswax, black tea, Bois des Landes, Olibanol.

    I like creating perfumes aldehydic accord and I dilute it to 10% I love using this and especially recommend it to beginners when using other aldehydes by themselves is overwhelming. It also has subtle base note effects.

    c-14 undeclactone gamma, c-18 gamma decalactone, apritone, butyl anthranilate, c-16 strawberry glycidate, damscones, and damascenones B and D, Dulcinyl, maltol, nectaryl, raspberry ketone, strawberry furanone, valencene.

    Aldinyle, Aurantia, citronwanile, lemonile, magnolan, oranger, vetiver, pamlefleur, paradisamide, peomosa, farnesol, lyral, rose acetate, allyl cyclohexyl glycolate, Cylabute.

    Calone, Scentenal, benzyl benzoate, ambroxan, butyl undecylenate, ethyl laurate, ethyl oleate, Benzyl salicylate and sakura salicylate, musks of all kinds.

    Cedryl acetate, Fir absolute is lovely, guaiyl acetate, guaiene, javanol, myrrh, norlimbanol, okoumal, oak extract, clearwood, trimofix
    oakmoss, terranol vetiver.

    castoreum, labdanum, civet, tonquitone, hydrocarboresin, indole, para cresyl phenylacetate, cinnamic alcohol, ginger root eo/co2, isoeugenol acetate, dimethyl phenyl ethyl carbinol, phenyl acetaldehyde, syringa aldehyde.
    Last edited by RSG; 16th January 2019 at 07:05 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    I've been using Imortelle for a nice caramellic note recently. For balsamic notes do a search in TGSC, there are a lot.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    Wow! That's a huge list! Thank you so much for posting.

    It's nice to know it's not just me that has hit a wall - it happens to lots of people you are right, I've just got to get out of my comfort zone. Iso e and ambrox smell so nice on their own its easy to see why it's used so much.... Just gotta resist using them lol.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    I still use them almost every time but I use smaller amounts so I can fit more things in. One perfume I did bespoke was a modern recreation of Perry Ellis. Plenty girly and heavy on the surface. Rose, jasmin, Carnation. But then I added base notes that showed through to the top, leather, pineapple, oak co2, okoumal, iso e super, Bois dencens, oakmoss abs, and ambroxan. The base just absolutely makes it. Fir tree having sex with an oak tree wearing leather in the middle of a throng of nubile nymphs.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Junkie mattmeleg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017

    Default Re: Trapped by iso e and ambrox

    "Even gourmands and orientals have more things in them than balsamic!"
    Totally agree.

    It`s nice trying to make a thick, oriental starting from the thinnest, top materials down.
    Conversely, It`s nice trying to make a thin, masculine cologne from the base notes up.
    When I do this "opposites," type approach I end up with a more balanced accord.

    Thick perfume? Start thin
    Thin perfume? Start thick

    It`s important to know where an accord has become to thick, too thin
    It`s important to know where an accord has become to sweet, too dry

    But if you try to make something perfectly balanced it can be boring.
    So I think when making linear perfumes, it`s important to use really good materials.
    Long, dark Vancouver winters

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