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Thread: Musk Mapping

  1. #1

    Lightbulb Musk Mapping

    I have been working on mapping Musks used in perfumery over the last year. I use Mind Mapping software daily to give me a visual representations of subjects.
    This was an exercise to visualize the categories of Musks, the variations and related qualities.It is offered as a gift my fellow perfumers on your journey to learning this fine craft.

    As this is a work in progress, I gladly accept any observations or edits. If you see where there needs to be correction please post or PM me and I will continue to update the map.

    Enjoy

    ~ Julian

    Updated Link
    Last edited by julian35; 12th February 2019 at 08:45 PM. Reason: New Version and updated material

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    I apologize ahead if you've seen the graphics I have, and references I've made...
    Natural Musky Elements small.jpg

    Nitro and Old Old Musks Graph.jpg

    Classification of Musks Graph.jpg
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    This is a great visualizer. I will enjoy working it out in my brain... ;-)

    I think I see one typo, on immediate first reading, I think Exaltonene is transposed, and should be Exaltenone.
    But I do see Exaltenone in a different place, than Exaltonene, so maybe it is is because I've not heard of or noted the existence of Exaltonene...
    Unless they are synonyms, or an industry misspelling that you found and relayed...??? Don't know...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    This is a curious one Paul, and exactly the reason I put this out to other perfumers. There are a few "anomalies" with the information I researched and perhaps we can solve them.

    The only mention of Exaltonene that I came across is from Arcadi Boix Camps (ABC):
    excerpt from P86- Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution 2000
    Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone): If muscenone δ is the unsaturated chemical related to muscone, exaltonene is the unsaturated chemical related to exaltone. It is incredibly strong, animal and smells of deer musk powder. It can be applied in the same elements mentioned with muscenone δ. Its animal note is more remarkable and beautiful than that of muscenone δ. Mixtures of muscenone δ, exaltonene, exaltone, habanolide, exaltolide and muscone are the holy sancta sanctorum of the musky subgroup. I believe the research in this area has approached perfection, and we can now say that we know that the meaning of musk, today, that it is not at all like galaxolide®.New products coming from research are the so-called helvetolide® and vulcanolide®, which have applications similar to muscenone δ and exaltonene. Small traces of them increase the power of products like habanolide, exaltolide or exolide super to a high degree. Accords made in the past with p-cresol, p-cresyl phenylacetate, maritima®, galaxolide® and musk ketone seem to me today very outdated. The future is coming in a new direction, and this direction will be extremely important in the perfumery of the next decade.
    Exaltonene is also metioned 2 more times in his book, in passing.

    Now, Cyclopentadecenone = CAS 502-72-7 = Exaltone. ABC does in fact state that Exaltonene is the unsaturated chemical related to Exaltone.

    Exaltenone (Firmenich) aka Musk Z4 (IFF) = CAS 14595-54-1 ,
    and is listed on my Musk Map in the MCM Ketone branch, along with Muscone, Civetone, Exaltone, Muscenone, Velvione, and Isomuscone .

    So, the ONLY mention of this Exaltonene is by ABC. No mention in any other books or internet resources. However, I do NOT believe it is Exaltenone he is referring to.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    So, At TGSC, Exaltenone is AKA (4Z)-cyclopentadec-4-en-1-one, and Cyclopentadecenone, aka Exaltone is obviously very similar in name.
    But also: " Techniques in Evolution 2000 Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone)".
    Many times, when reading the notations, the 4 in the first example is ignored.
    But all three citations use the very same (Cyclopentadecenone) word spelling, except for the added numbers or Z.

    Honestly, I don't know what to say, except that I've caught a LOT of spelling errors, (and mistakes) in ABC's book.
    I suppose the way to clear it up, is to ask ABC.
    I get only a few questions replied back to me per period of time with ABC, so, I'll save my request for when I need something more urgent. But please don't let me stop you from trying to communicate with ABC on this topic.

    Through the years, we have been able to clear up some of the issues with ABC's book, maybe this one will also get cleared in time too.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    This is absolutely wonderful. THANK YOU!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueHillsgal View Post
    This is absolutely wonderful. THANK YOU!
    Avec Plaisir . I am pleased you find it useful.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    thank you so much for sharing that julian! cheers to you!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post


    Now, Cyclopentadecenone = CAS 502-72-7 = Exaltone. ABC does in fact state that Exaltonene is the unsaturated chemical related to Exaltone.

    Exaltenone (Firmenich) aka Musk Z4 (IFF) = CAS 14595-54-1 ,
    and is listed on my Musk Map in the MCM Ketone branch, along with Muscone, Civetone, Exaltone, Muscenone, Velvione, and Isomuscone .

    So, the ONLY mention of this Exaltonene is by ABC. No mention in any other books or internet resources. However, I do NOT believe it is Exaltenone he is referring to.
    CAS 502-72-7 or Exaltone is actually cyclopentadecanone, not cyclopentadecenone, as there is no unsaturation in the ring.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Quote Originally Posted by ajsanch View Post
    CAS 502-72-7 or Exaltone is actually cyclopentadecanone, not cyclopentadecenone, as there is no unsaturation in the ring.
    Thank you ajsaunch . Right you are, ...what a difference a vowel makes. LOL

  11. #11

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    This is really cool and useful, I love MindMap. Thanks Julian! One suggestion, maybe orient the parent item layout (or it's children) as horizontal, it seems like they may fit the screen better that way. Just the first expanded level though, the other items work well vertically stacked as is.


  12. #12

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    I have reformatted the Musk Map and added material information

    Musk Map 2.11.19

  13. #13

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    I have reformatted the Musk Map and added material information

    Musk Map 2.11.19

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Amazing job. Thank you Julian for sharing this, this is great education... This map is definitely a musk-have

  15. #15

    Default Re: Musk Mapping

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Paris View Post
    Amazing job. Thank you Julian for sharing this, this is great education... This map is definitely a musk-have
    I am so pleased that you find this useful Ben Paris. It was a good exercise to allow me to see the span of Musk materials and get them into my head.
    Musk-Have... good pun btw.
    I think when I get a moment I will see if I can work on the formatting a bit. I like editorinscent suggestion of formatting the Parent page as Kanban.




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