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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hello TheLadyMay! And Benz3ne, apologies for continuing to send your thread down this Chant d'Aromes path! How did you like your samples of Armani for Women, Zibeline, and Mitsouko?
    Thanks for asking Grayspoole - apologies for the delay in my response. I looked a little less when my thread became a little 'sidelined'.

    The Mitsouko EdC is really gorgeous. It's light and, as per my thread title, diffuse, but it isn't without some longevity and the definite feel of an aged wear. It sits close to the skin with 'definite oakmoss' after the initial peach-fuzziness tends towards nothing. I mentioned elsewhere that I then put some Imperial Oud Mysuru Ambur (a hearty ambergris-sandalwood tincture) on, during the dry-down stages of Mitsouko. The sea-saltiness and woodiness really complimented the airy oakmoss which remained, and garnered some strong compliments from my other half.

    The Armani is more 'typically' oakmoss-floral, which I would retrospectively associate with the '80s. Not that I was around then, but it is familiar with friends and family friends during my growing up in the '90s. It lasts reasonably well, and seems to creep into the periphery just when you think it's given up the ghost. Nice, but I prefer the Mitsouko, I think.

    I've also tried some Paco Rabanne La Nuit EdP - it's a strongly dirty-civet, flora-oakmoss affair. I'm yet to try Kouros (I know, I know) but it was likened by a friend to a more floral Kouros. Whereas Mitsouko and Armani are more delicate, this is formulated to be noticed. It bounces off the skin and is, for want of a better word, loud. I absolutely loved it but haven't a clue under what circumstances I would wear it!

    I'm yet to try the Mitsouko EdT or Zibeline, but I'm certainly looking forward to them. I'll perhaps sport one a little later and review it briefly here thereafter.

    I've been pointed in the direction of a basenotes member (David - I'm sure he won't mind the mention) who grew up near where I live currently. He has a striking collection of vintage perfumes and decants for reasonable cost, so I'll be sure to procure something from him soon enough. My list currently stands at;

    Jicky EdT (I've recently procured approx 8mL of the current EdP to try).
    Patou Joy EdP.
    No.5 EdP.
    No.19 EdT.
    Guerlain Derby.

    Plus, he has available a number of extraits. Of course, these are at an understandably significant increase in cost but I'm tempted to try Mitsouko Ext., Samsara, Shalimar, Djedi, No.5 and No.19... All in due course.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Thank you for sharing your beautifully-worded thoughts on these lovely perfumes! I'm especially intrigued by the combination of ambergris-sandalwood tincture with Mitsouko's base. It sounds wonderful! I'm reminded of Dioressence which also combines mossy chypre with ambergris.
    Currently wearing: Agartha by April Aromatics

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post
    Thank you for sharing your beautifully-worded thoughts on these lovely perfumes! I'm especially intrigued by the combination of ambergris-sandalwood tincture with Mitsouko's base. It sounds wonderful! I'm reminded of Dioressence which also combines mossy chypre with ambergris.
    Very kind words, thank you StellaDiverFlynn. I was having a rummage around and thought to myself 'you know what, this could work'! Lo and behold, it had my OH grabbing my wrist, bringing it up to her nose and repeating 'well, this is nice', and 'this smells really good, sweet but not too much y'know?'.

    Thanks for the point towards Dioressence! I see no Ambergris in the lineup but I can imagine some feeling of ambergris with the aldehydes (fatty/waxy, albeit bright) and orris root for that increased 'fattiness'. Certainly another to add to my 'to try' list!

  4. #34
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    It sounds like you are having a wonderful time, Benz3ne.

    With StellaDiverFlynn, I have to agree that the combination of vintage Mitsouko EDC with the Imperial Oud attar sounds heavenly, and I say this as a perfume purist who never, ever layers scents. I hope you can try some vintage Mitsouko extrait eventually: the density of the incense-y base would probably make you very happy. By the way, that attar looks amazing and is unfortunately out of stock...

    Armani for Women is mourned by so many who loved it in its day, but it hasn't won my heart, not entirely sure why. It resembles some other 80's perfumes that I enjoy more, so I reach for them instead (and I was around in the 1980's so I have a strong affection for the general style). It may be that Armani seems to include a little of everything--spice, flowers, green notes, moss, balsamic notes--without adding up to a truly distinctive composition. And then there is that problematic marigold note...one of the few floral notes that I don't enjoy.

    I share your feelings about Paco Rabanne La Nuit EDP. I find it very exciting to wear, but only in private! The pissy, honeyed animalic base and the electronic rose are quite a combination. It's like vintage Shocking turned up to 11. I made the mistake of wearing it to work once. No one commented but I felt very out of place indeed.

    I look forward to your thoughts on Zibeline, The vintage extrait has gradually become a favorite of mine, although it is initially hard to understand, since it doesn't smell very much like any contemporary scent. And while all of the samples on your To Do list are great perfumes, vintage No. 19 EDT is the standout for me. The original composition (which does not resemble the current EDT or EDP or that Poudre thing) has some of the best iris I've ever smelled, but the iris is surrounded by a complementary, beautifully calibrated structure of galbanum, rose, and vetiver. A word of caution: I've realized that my love for vintage No.19 EDT has made every contemporary iris-centric scent that I try feel a bit dough-y and tedious. And then there is vintage No. 19 parfum...
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty

  5. #35

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Very kind words, thank you StellaDiverFlynn. I was having a rummage around and thought to myself 'you know what, this could work'! Lo and behold, it had my OH grabbing my wrist, bringing it up to her nose and repeating 'well, this is nice', and 'this smells really good, sweet but not too much y'know?'.

    Thanks for the point towards Dioressence! I see no Ambergris in the lineup but I can imagine some feeling of ambergris with the aldehydes (fatty/waxy, albeit bright) and orris root for that increased 'fattiness'. Certainly another to add to my 'to try' list!
    I didn't know about its inclusion of ambergris either, until I read Claire Vukcevic's article on basenotes:

    http://www.basenotes.net/features/33...nd-half-truths

    Whether it's included in my bottle, there's a certain salty warmth and softly stony iodine coolness hiding underneath that complements the floral chypre and cinnamon pretty well in it.
    Currently wearing: Agartha by April Aromatics

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    It sounds like you are having a wonderful time, Benz3ne.

    With StellaDiverFlynn, I have to agree that the combination of vintage Mitsouko EDC with the Imperial Oud attar sounds heavenly, and I say this as a perfume purist who never, ever layers scents. I hope you can try some vintage Mitsouko extrait eventually: the density of the incense-y base would probably make you very happy. By the way, that attar looks amazing and is unfortunately out of stock...
    I was very pleased with how well it worked. Surprised, in fact. I'm not keen on layering myself, but I thought one had dissipated (largely) and made room for something else. I'll definitely replicate it.
    Unfortunately, yes. I bought a split off a friend (1 of the 3mL he purchased). He then wanted to make some room so sold me the remaining (almost) 2mL! I also have a sandalwood-ambergris tincture from eBay which is surprisingly good and a shaving set from Australian Private Reserve called 'The Santal'. It's a shaving soap, aftershave and EdP of the owners' private stash of ambergris and sandalwood and it is beautifully creamy. I've been fortunate procuring sandalwood/ambergris things over the last year. I've also some Mysore Sandalwood oil and know of someone selling a small quantity of ambergris, so I might combine the two and let steep!

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Armani for Women is mourned by so many who loved it in its day, but it hasn't won my heart, not entirely sure why. It resembles some other 80's perfumes that I enjoy more, so I reach for them instead (and I was around in the 1980's so I have a strong affection for the general style). It may be that Armani seems to include a little of everything--spice, flowers, green notes, moss, balsamic notes--without adding up to a truly distinctive composition. And then there is that problematic marigold note...one of the few floral notes that I don't enjoy.
    I can see exactly what you mean. The individual notes unfortunately don't equal the sum of their parts. That is, that individually (the bright fruitiness to start) is too waning, the oakmoss is 'too typical' if there is such a thing and doesn't offer much in the way of distinction from other very similar fragrances of the era (or styles of fragrances of that era). There are others which are focussed, and sing more to the likes of you and I who want that individuality from the fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I share your feelings about Paco Rabanne La Nuit EDP. I find it very exciting to wear, but only in private! The pissy, honeyed animalic base and the electronic rose are quite a combination. It's like vintage Shocking turned up to 11. I made the mistake of wearing it to work once. No one commented but I felt very out of place indeed.
    I wore mine after work one day. 'One spray, that'll do', on the back of my hand. Safe to say it exuded to every corner of the room and it became very apparent, very quickly, that it is no slouch. I smelled it throughout the dogs' agility class and deep into the night... along with some remanence of it the following morning.

    I look forward to your thoughts on Zibeline, The vintage extrait has gradually become a favorite of mine, although it is initially hard to understand, since it doesn't smell very much like any contemporary scent. And while all of the samples on your To Do list are great perfumes, vintage No. 19 EDT is the standout for me. The original composition (which does not resemble the current EDT or EDP or that Poudre thing) has some of the best iris I've ever smelled, but the iris is surrounded by a complementary, beautifully calibrated structure of galbanum, rose, and vetiver. A word of caution: I've realized that my love for vintage No.19 EDT has made every contemporary iris-centric scent that I try feel a bit dough-y and tedious. And then there is vintage No. 19 parfum...
    I'll be sure to let you know. I'll have to see whether this suits me, and if so I'll then hunt for the extrait. I think that's a common theme, the lack of correspondence to 'today' scents. I'm certainly going to get in touch with David, he's been a gentleman in our correspondence so I should really make the most of his offerings. Lord only knows when I'd find them again, if ever!
    As for the 'doughy' Iris, I can't help but sing the praises of Xerjoff Irisss here. I know N.Cal Fragrance Reviewer is a fan, too, and it's a step above that of other readily-available iris-featuring perfumes. That being said, I do love the likes of Dior Homme Parfum and Valentino Uomo Intense. Xerjoff Pikovaya Dama also features a beautiful iris masked by some neroli and much aldehydes.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post
    I didn't know about its inclusion of ambergris either, until I read Claire Vukcevic's article on basenotes:

    http://www.basenotes.net/features/33...nd-half-truths

    Whether it's included in my bottle, there's a certain salty warmth and softly stony iodine coolness hiding underneath that complements the floral chypre and cinnamon pretty well in it.

    Wonderful! I'd read this previously but completely forgotten about it, so thank you again. Yup, you've sold it, I'll need to try that as well!

    Well then! Grayspoole, StellaDiverFlynn, it turns out I'm not the pioneer in adding ambergris to Mitsouko!

    Quote Originally Posted by ClaireV
    Abdul Samad Al Qurashi Sweet Blue Amber is a very true interpretation of grey or brown (standard) ambergris. It is very funky and halitosis-like at the start, but it eventually mellows out into a warm, salty, skin-like scent that is very sensual in an organic way. I like to layer this under certain Western scents like Shalimar or Mitsouko to give their notes a fuzzy, warm radiance and a funky animal touch that is missing from the modern versions.
    I guess this can be construed as 'great minds think alike'?

  8. #38

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post

    I guess this can be construed as 'great minds think alike'?
    Aha, indeed!
    Currently wearing: Agartha by April Aromatics

  9. #39

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Vintage Guerlain Chant D’Aromes. Any concentration. Older vintage preferred. Sampled 1960s edc. Superb. Patient but persistent. Ain’t nuttin’ in above quote I didn’t already know, or found helpful. Amused at the essay though.
    Have you been looking for this fragrance on Etsy?

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Etsy doesn’t work for me. 1. You need to open an account, and 2. Their return policies aren’t that good, so I’ve heard. The pictures of those bottles make me a little crazy, but I won’t fall for that.
    I’m happy being an eBay “guest” shopper, but finding a decent Guerlain on eBay has its challenges here in the U.S. because of LVMH, so I’ve heard and seen for myself.
    “You are the bait. The bait is you.” ~Trick or Treat (1986)
    “Have a good time, all the time. That is my philosophy.” ~This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
    “Thrrrow yourselves into the river, dahlings!” ~Withnail and I (1987)

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Innocently sidelined, my presence on this thread won’t be rudely ignored. *nods head in firm confirmation of the fact*

    I don’t care. I won’t buy anything new or niche at this time. I will visit high-end department stores and boutiques for a sniff, but that’s all I plan on doing. I will not be deterred, or have my attention diverted onto lesser things.

    I specifically want to acquire an older vintage of Guerlain Chant D’Aromes in any concentration, and L’Heure Bleue items (of course!!), as requested on my Visitor Messages board. I also have a testlist that comprises mostly of vintages, many of them unattainable, I realize, but not all.

    I won’t budge. I won’t be bumped off either. No sirees.
    Kudos if/when you stick to the game plan. Setting a budget has always worked for me for high(er) end perfumes (read: more expensive perfumes). For example, putting a set amount of money aside on a monthly basis allows me to quantify how far I am off a goal. I.e. if I wish to procure something costing £300, and I put aside £50/mo, it'd take 6 months (obviously) so I have quantified it. If I decided to sell something in the meantime, it'd only reduce the time spent waiting.

    For the record, not that it requires explanation, I never stipulated that it wasn't innocently sidelined. As for the 'rudely ignoring', it's more a case of 'casually omitting' given the topic of Chant d'Aromes doesn't apply to me in any way/shape/form, and has not been suggested by myself at any point during this thread. I guess my 'ignoring' of a topic which doesn't involve me, on a thread I took the time to start, is in a similar vein as ignoring someone who might wilfully pester, to coin a phrase. Of course, I mean no offence here, it can just be distracting to have irrelevant posts where my question has been 'casually omitted' for someone else to voice their own queries, as I'm sure you'll appreciate.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Etsy doesn’t work for me. 1. You need to open an account, and 2. Their return policies aren’t that good, so I’ve heard. The pictures of those bottles make me a little crazy, but I won’t fall for that.
    I’m happy being an eBay “guest” shopper, but finding a decent Guerlain on eBay has its challenges here in the U.S. because of LVMH, so I’ve heard and seen for myself.
    If you have a good idea of what you're looking for, or ask around regarding reputable Etsy sellers, you might be able to pick up something that requires no returning?
    Same goes for eBay - regardless of the individuals' return policies, if you suspect something to be unsavoury/faked then you can submit a complaint and eBay will usually side with the buyer in that case. In effect, this bypasses the returns policy.

  13. #43
    Dependent Shemelimelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Benz3ne, thank you for your courteous reply. No longwinded explanations required. No misunderstandings. I understand. You understand. We are in full understanding of the pleasures and potential pitfalls of this shared hobby of ours.

    Nope. Not a gambler. I trust no one when it comes to a “no returns policy.” I like to set aside a strict budget because I am not the Bank of America, and I have other hobbies that require my having to set aside a budget for.
    “You are the bait. The bait is you.” ~Trick or Treat (1986)
    “Have a good time, all the time. That is my philosophy.” ~This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
    “Thrrrow yourselves into the river, dahlings!” ~Withnail and I (1987)

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Soliciting sales outside of the Marketplace forum is not allowed. Several posts have been removed.
    "The cure for boredom is curiosity.
    There is no cure for curiosity."
    - Dorothy Parker

  15. #45
    Dependent Shemelimelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Okay. I will take note of this rule. I’m sure the “casual omission” of my posts will help cleanse humanity of its prevailing evils.
    “You are the bait. The bait is you.” ~Trick or Treat (1986)
    “Have a good time, all the time. That is my philosophy.” ~This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
    “Thrrrow yourselves into the river, dahlings!” ~Withnail and I (1987)

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Checking in again!

    Weil - Zibeline.
    Well. Wow. This stuff is absolutely exquisite. Musky, fat, round, smooth, sweet and dirty. Completely full of character and flavour. Femme but I'd gladly wear it if it wasn't akin to hen's teeth. I'll gladly use this sample up, sparingly.

    Mitsouko - EdT, late '80s/early '90s.
    Far woodier than the EdC, and giving more of it's presentation towards top notes, too. It's fuller than the EdC but doesn't detract from the beauty of 'earlier' Mitsouko as I experienced with the EdC. I'd love to try this with the Mysuru Ambur, but it doesn't need it like the EdC might. I think I prefer Toilette over Cologne, but they're both stellar. Again, I'll enjoy using up this sample.

    To summarise - Mitsouko in any variation is fantastic. La Nuit EdP is brilliant but obnoxious, loud, nose-catching (as opposed to eye-catching). Armani Armani has the makings of something spectacular, but falls marginally short for me. Weil Zibeline is outstanding.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Thank you Benz3ne for sharing your expriences with these perfumes! I share your enthusiam in Zibeline, what a beauty it is! I especially love its buttery, even fatty musk characteristics, like a sumptuous fur coat wrapping around a chypre body. It's a pity that it's not very easy to find, but if you happen to come across the bath oil version of Zibeline, it's probably worth investigating as it mostly retains the musky aspect of the Parfum, although simultaneously rendered more spicy as well.

    I too find Mitsouko EDT from early 90s surprisingly woody.
    Currently wearing: Agartha by April Aromatics

  18. #48
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Hello again Benz3ne and StellaDiverFlynn-

    I think we are in complete agreement on all points regarding these vintages.

    Zibeline is such a spectacular, opulent, deep blend of floral, herbal, and resinous notes. A modest application of the extrait lasts 12 hours, easily, and develops and morphs in fascinating ways. The experience of perfumes like this one is why I treasure my vintage bottles.

    So what do you make of the whole concept of “parfums de fourrure” or fur perfumes? (The House of Weil was a furrier first, then launched perfumes as accessories to the furs.) It's a fascinating concept that seems to rely on two, very different ideas. One the one hand, you might have perfume with a fur note--a specific kind of animalic note. In our house, we all think our cat's fur smells lovely. She keeps herself scrupulously clean, so her fur smells dry and sweetly musky--which is my idea of a good fur note.

    Alternatively, a parfum de fourrure is said to mask the smell of a fur. (So coats made up of the skins of dead animals can have unpleasant odors? You don’t say! And to solve this, you slapped on some Zibeline?) With no direct experience of how a fur coat smells, good or bad, I’ve been wondering how Zibeline would improve it. It is often described as an animalic perfume but I think a strong, skanky animalic blend would have defeated the purpose. And to me, my Zibeline is not overtly animalic, in the skanky, dirty sense of that term. Zibeline has a soft musky base that is not at all skanky, along with creamy powderiness and a definite herbal feeling. It’s deeply musky but dry, an aromatic blend that I believe would blend with, and take the edge off, the fur smell rather than accentuating it or trying to mask it. Or so I imagine.


    Meanwhile, I rewatched Stage Door (1937) last night...a perfectly wonderful film about young actresses with Katherine Hepburn, Ginger Rogers, Lucille Ball, Gail Patrick, Eve Arden trading wisecracks at their absolute best. Furs are a visual and plot theme. Anyone with a part in a play, or family money, or a wealthy boyfriend has a fur...ermine, fox, sable. Eve Arden wears her cat (living) around her neck, like a joke stole. I wonder what perfume they all wore with them.
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty




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