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  1. #1
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    Default Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Shwmae pawb! That's "alright all!" in Welsh.

    There's something of a non-directional question that has been rolling around in my head of late, surrounding none other than Vintage perfumes.
    The initial thought for me is that, for a generous proportion here, there are fragrances which people reminisce over, having nabbed them from ma's, pa's, grandmama's etc.'s cabinets, or that they wore to school for the first time in the '70s, but this doesn't hold true for me. My 'vintage' reminiscence is largely Acqua di Gio on my dad while I grew up and something perhaps not dissimilar to Yardley English Rose on my Great Aunt. As I'm sure you're noticing, I'm of the *dun dun duuun* younger generation (early '90s for reference).

    I digress.

    I'm looking to venture lightly towards Vintage perfumery. However, for someone 'like me' where do I begin? I'm thinking along the more 'remarkable' fragrances which were doctored by IFRA (yes, I know there are some available now which buck trends), such as Mitsouko EdT which seems to have a good reputation as a vintage perfume. Are there suggestions for fragrances which may not be readily available now, or drastically formulated, or are totally unlike others which can be had for a *ahem* reasonable price? If so, what are good aspects to look out for?

    Sorry for the lack of knowledge before starting out this sort of question. It's really been kick-started by my recent procurement of a bottle of Trumper Eucris EdP, which I absolutely love.

    Thanks a lot! Diolch yn fawr!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Are you looking for vintage perfumes that can be had on ebay or the like for reasonable prices, or currently available perfumes that are either reasonably close to vintage ones or to vintage style?

    For vintage ones, not sure about Europe. Here in the US, vintage perfumes in styles not available now that can be had for reasonable prices (with some patience) include
    - Joy. Jasmine and civet galore. It appears that many US women had it in their drawers, but never ended up using their most expensive perfume. So now ebay seems to have many of them.
    - Shocking: musks overload. This also appeared to have been pretty popular in the US. Unfortunately, vintage bottles of this are often off.
    - Lanvins like Arpege and My Sin: perhaps not as unique as the two above, but still the musks are notable.

    The Guerlains, Chanels, Carons, and Diors are usually out of budget for me. I got lucky once with vintage Bandit, but that was a stroke of luck.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Are you looking for vintage perfumes that can be had on ebay or the like for reasonable prices, or currently available perfumes that are either reasonably close to vintage ones or to vintage style?

    For vintage ones, not sure about Europe. Here in the US, vintage perfumes in styles not available now that can be had for reasonable prices (with some patience) include
    - Joy. Jasmine and civet galore. It appears that many US women had it in their drawers, but never ended up using their most expensive perfume. So now ebay seems to have many of them.
    - Shocking: musks overload. This also appeared to have been pretty popular in the US. Unfortunately, vintage bottles of this are often off.
    - Lanvins like Arpege and My Sin: perhaps not as unique as the two above, but still the musks are notable.

    The Guerlains, Chanels, Carons, and Diors are usually out of budget for me. I got lucky once with vintage Bandit, but that was a stroke of luck.

    cacio
    Firstly, thanks for the prompt reply cacio!

    Perhaps the former. I'd be happy to hear of the latter, but the former is where my interests are, albeit loosely, directed. I think I've mostly seen the likes of the Diors, Guerlains, Chanels so they're where my eye have been caught. I'd assume, under the same breath, that finding the likes of Mitsouko (aforementioned), L'Heure Bleu, Shalimar, No.5, No.19, etc. is where prices have crept up. On this note, I'd be out of my depth assuming whether something along these lines is legitimate or not - I would currently look towards batch codes for a DOM but wouldn't know where else to look (generally speaking). e.g. in the case of certain labels being altered alongside reforms, sprayers being altered alongside reforms. etc.

    On another note, I've heard nice things about Paco Rabanne La Nuit. Though 'founded' in 1985, I can't see when it was discontinued*. Apparently a husky-musky, honeyed perfume.

    *Are there archives of when specific, discontinued fragrances were discontinued?

    Edit: I'm guessing you'd mean Jean Patou Joy.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Right! Updates: I've scoured t'interwebs and found a bottle of Mitsouko EdT going on 'the bay'. Seller has a couple of perfumes up and some other bits 'n' pieces, good number (several hundred) of good reviews. It has a batch code of 4J01 which comes up on 'checkfresh' as 2014, but the seller advises it was purchased at least 11 years ago. Unfortunately without a box which throws a red flag in my direction... Are there any other telltale signs from the bottle which I can use to date the fragrance? It's a 30mL bottle and the 'Eau de Toilette' and 'Guerlain' writing isn't as light as photos I've seen of more current bottles, i.e. appears a darker print.

    Thoughts? It's as an auction so I wouldn't want to post a link but I'm sure the seller would be happy to discuss a buy-now price. It's listed cheaply currently.

    Screenshot 2019-02-20 at 11.05.59.jpg

    Above, the label on the front of the bottle.

    I wasn't sure whether this would be better placed here or in a perfume appraisals section.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Hi Benz3ne-

    Now that you have been bitten the vintage bug, there's much to discuss and I will reply to your original post at length soon, but since you are watching an auction, here are some quick tips.

    Checkfresh and similar sites are absolutely useless for dating vintages and will often provide misleading information.

    You will want to familiarize yourself with the information provided the invaluable Raiders of the Lost Scent blog, as in the post:

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-perfumes.html

    The batchcode of the bottle you are considering is from 2004, which aligns with the seller's information. Not super vintage, but probably better than current.
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi Benz3ne-

    Now that you have been bitten the vintage bug, there's much to discuss and I will reply to your original post at length soon, but since you are watching an auction, here are some quick tips.

    Checkfresh and similar sites are absolutely useless for dating vintages and will often provide misleading information.

    You will want to familiarize yourself with the information provided the invaluable Raiders of the Lost Scent blog, as in the post:

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-perfumes.html

    The batchcode of the bottle you are considering is from 2004, which aligns with the seller's information. Not super vintage, but probably better than current.
    Thanks for this, Grayspoole! Funnily, I came across that precise website earlier whereby I deduced it was a 2004 bottle. From what I can see, the major reformulation in the 2000s was approx 2006, so this would just precede that. There's a few days left on the auction so I'll await with bated breath.

    Thanks for the prompt reply, it's much appreciated!

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    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Thanks for the prompt reply, it's much appreciated!
    You're welcome!

    And another quick suggestion.. For a number of years, I focused most of my vintage Guerlain collecting on the parfum and PDT formulations, with the occasional vintage EDT. Thanks to Bavard's Blind Sample II pass, I tried vintage Mitsouko EDC, and I now have quite a good supply of that as well, and I'm also collecting other vintage Guerlain EDC's. In the vintage EDC, Mitsouko still lasts all day, and it has a lighter, fresher and very enjoyable presence. Older Guerlain EDC's, often presented in the lovely "montre" flacon, can be quite affordable on Ebay.

    Happy vintage hunting...
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Happy vintage hunting...
    Uh oh...

    In all seriousness, I'm sure it'll go fine! I'm pretty reserved (for the most part) with how I spend and I never spend above my means, so I'm sure I'll eventually come across some bargains which warrant a little, or larger, spend. Good call with the Mitsouko EdC - knowing that EdC's of the era perform reasonably gives me more scope for hunting, rather than solely focussing on EdT, EdP and Parfum which seem to creep up in price for successive iterations. Thanks again!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    In general about vintage, my principle is always to allow for the possibility that what one buys is not good. Most stuff I've bought was good enough, but there are always a minority of dud (either ruined, or altogether faked-it's not uncommon to get a bottle filled with yellow cleaning stuff).

    Re: the classic brands, I'd say current Shalimar is close enough to vintage that it's not necessary to go that route-but then, perhaps for this reason, shalimar is the only vintage Guerlain that can be bought for good prices. Unlike, say, things like Apres l'ondee.

    Rabanne La Nuit is certainly worth trying (in fact, by chance I am wearing it today). Musky overload. It's not in the classical styles, this is more a child of the 1980s (ie those of big, in your face, neon perfumes). This was never much sought after, so you should be able to find it for reasonable prices.
    Yes, by Joy I mean Patou Joy. It might still be in production, but vintage contained 100 times the jasmine of whatever IFRA allows nowadays.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    In general about vintage, my principle is always to allow for the possibility that what one buys is not good. Most stuff I've bought was good enough, but there are always a minority of dud (either ruined, or altogether faked-it's not uncommon to get a bottle filled with yellow cleaning stuff).

    Re: the classic brands, I'd say current Shalimar is close enough to vintage that it's not necessary to go that route-but then, perhaps for this reason, shalimar is the only vintage Guerlain that can be bought for good prices. Unlike, say, things like Apres l'ondee.

    Rabanne La Nuit is certainly worth trying (in fact, by chance I am wearing it today). Musky overload. It's not in the classical styles, this is more a child of the 1980s (ie those of big, in your face, neon perfumes). This was never much sought after, so you should be able to find it for reasonable prices.
    Yes, by Joy I mean Patou Joy. It might still be in production, but vintage contained 100 times the jasmine of whatever IFRA allows nowadays.

    cacio
    Diolch, cacio.

    Again, rather bizarrely, I've heard about PR La Nuit and I currently have my eye on a bottle on eBay. Interestingly, I can't seem to find when it was discontinued, just that it was. I've heard it being referred to as 'honey and dirty underwear', so obviously that sparked some interest for me... I think. I do feel like I should try it, however, and it does come across as inexpensive from what I've seen.

    Good to know re: the Guerlain's. I'm sure there are more than the fair share of cases where people have bought doctored fragrances, and I'm hoping that doesn't happen to me. If, however, it does, it's a case of once bitten, twice shy.

    I'll keep an eye out for the Patou Joy. I believe I may have tried a minute sample of it when I first started off with perfumes a couple of years ago. From what I remember it was bright and powdery, but for sure my tastes have adapted as has my outlook on specific notes so I'm excited to try most things nowadays, regardless of their composition. I'll see whether I can find any blog posts, or similar, on dating Patou bottles as this would certainly help the search party!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Not sure when La Nuit was discontinued, perhaps in the '00. But by then it didn't sell much, so probably what happened is that Rabanne stopped producing it long before, and perfume stores just kept selling what they had until the stock was depleted. Unlike department stores, which clean up shelf space, smal perfume stores just keep what they have on the shelves.

    I think Joy was good until the '00, when IFRA regulations on jasmine kicked in. So most of what's around is vintage, especially parfum concentration. As far as I know, there is little or no post-IFRA parfum, it might have been produced once or so, but never in large quantities.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Diolch, cacio.

    Again, rather bizarrely, I've heard about PR La Nuit and I currently have my eye on a bottle on eBay. Interestingly, I can't seem to find when it was discontinued, just that it was. I've heard it being referred to as 'honey and dirty underwear', so obviously that sparked some interest for me... I think. I do feel like I should try it, however, and it does come across as inexpensive from what I've seen.

    Good to know re: the Guerlain's. I'm sure there are more than the fair share of cases where people have bought doctored fragrances, and I'm hoping that doesn't happen to me. If, however, it does, it's a case of once bitten, twice shy.

    I'll keep an eye out for the Patou Joy. I believe I may have tried a minute sample of it when I first started off with perfumes a couple of years ago. From what I remember it was bright and powdery, but for sure my tastes have adapted as has my outlook on specific notes so I'm excited to try most things nowadays, regardless of their composition. I'll see whether I can find any blog posts, or similar, on dating Patou bottles as this would certainly help the search party!
    Raiders of the lost scent (the site grayspoole mentioned) has a very thourough post about dating Patou bottles.
    Currently wearing: Agartha by April Aromatics

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Not sure when La Nuit was discontinued, perhaps in the '00. But by then it didn't sell much, so probably what happened is that Rabanne stopped producing it long before, and perfume stores just kept selling what they had until the stock was depleted. Unlike department stores, which clean up shelf space, smal perfume stores just keep what they have on the shelves.

    I think Joy was good until the '00, when IFRA regulations on jasmine kicked in. So most of what's around is vintage, especially parfum concentration. As far as I know, there is little or no post-IFRA parfum, it might have been produced once or so, but never in large quantities.
    I've found an auction for La Nuit EdP and another for La Nuit EdT. Currently, they're both cheap (the EdT is a half-used bottle and has been re-listed twice for lack of bidders). I've also found a seller whom has a Shalimar EdT from '92 and Samsara Parfum (7.5mL, plastic red cap and bottle 'sheath') from either '95 or '85 as it's without a box, with my guess lying on '95 as nothing short of a guesstimate. I'll keep an eye on these because if they're inexpensive enough, there's no harm taking a punt.

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post
    Raiders of the lost scent (the site grayspoole mentioned) has a very thourough post about dating Patou bottles.
    That's great! Fortunately, I found it under my own steam but the guidance is much appreciated.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    I'd say avoid splash bottles now as well as ones where the liquid is darker than it should be, unless you don't care about the first half hour or so and are only interest in the base notes. I started selling some vintage on ebay recently and it's gone well. I'd rather sell on BN but people here tend to want to swap or they're looking for a super low price (so am I! LOL). Also, there is often protracted negotiations only to end with no transaction, whereas on ebay the buyer either pays or doesn't, and if it's the latter you just relist, no more than a few seconds wasted. There are still some good deals to be had on ebay, such as vintage Quorum, but you need to have patience and do research to know what to look for. Advice that will benefit you will depend upon what you want, how much time and effort you want to expend, etc.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I'd say avoid splash bottles now as well as ones where the liquid is darker than it should be, unless you don't care about the first half hour or so and are only interest in the base notes. I started selling some vintage on ebay recently and it's gone well. I'd rather sell on BN but people here tend to want to swap or they're looking for a super low price (so am I! LOL). Also, there is often protracted negotiations only to end with no transaction, whereas on ebay the buyer either pays or doesn't, and if it's the latter you just relist, no more than a few seconds wasted. There are still some good deals to be had on ebay, such as vintage Quorum, but you need to have patience and do research to know what to look for. Advice that will benefit you will depend upon what you want, how much time and effort you want to expend, etc.
    Thanks Bigsly. Absolutely, don't want anything that's spoiled or particularly oxidised. I unfortunately missed all the auctions I was keeping an eye on - was distracted by the Wales vs England rugby game. What an atmosphere there was, too!

    Fortunately, I've a good friend who's kindly decanting some vintage fragrances for me. They're 1-2mL of each but the following to give me a taste;
    Armani Armani Pour Femme.
    Zibeline Weil.
    Mitsouko EdC ('60s) and EdT ('80s).

    I'll be sure to report back my findings!

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    Super Member Le vagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Hi Benz3ne, welcome on the vintage perfume journey There is a lot to say on the subject but my tip would be to purchase some decants to get an idea of the smells that appeal to you. A well-known member of BN, David, has a Facebook group selling vintage decants for reasonable prices from Europe. It's called 'Rare perfume decants'.

    If you need any tips on what might be good to start with feel free to ask.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Le vagabond View Post
    Hi Benz3ne, welcome on the vintage perfume journey There is a lot to say on the subject but my tip would be to purchase some decants to get an idea of the smells that appeal to you. A well-known member of BN, David, has a Facebook group selling vintage decants for reasonable prices from Europe. It's called 'Rare perfume decants'.

    If you need any tips on what might be good to start with feel free to ask.
    Merçi le Vagabond. That is a great pointer, thank you. It's good to know someone is actively sharing the love, so to speak, with regards to vintage perfumery. I've sent a request to join the group so hopefully that'll be approved and I'll make myself known.

    I'm sure I'll have more than my fair share of questions before too long. Diolch eto! Thanks again!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    I, too, am going to send my request to join the vintage lovers group. I thought I was supposed to join All Hail Guerlain, since Guerlain is the one house I’d like to focus on the most. (As far as other houses go, I want a sample, if it’s possible, to satisfy my curiosity, and to put my nagging mind at ease.) I feel I missed out badly on a lot of great Guerlains because I didn’t dare step inside Bergdorfs, Saks, and the like, during a time when I should have but couldn’t. Right now, I want vintage Chant D’Aromes. I purchased a 1ml edc vial, dated from the ‘60s, off an eBay seller, vivientreasures. One word to describe it: SUBLIME! I overlooked this one in its more current state: unremarkably boring and forgettable. Not even “bad”, but practically invisible! I’m not looking for an extrait. Any concentration will do fine by me. My only rule with all my fragrances is no decants. If I really want something, I’ll buy it in its original bottle because the bottle matters to me.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Leave it to me to look in the wrong places. I searched the basenotes groups again, inattentive reader that I am, especially without having drank my morning coffee. I don’t do facebook or twitter or instagram. I don’t care to.���� It’s Basenotes or bust for ME!��

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    I see my emojis didn’t pass. Ok again!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Merçi le Vagabond. That is a great pointer, thank you. It's good to know someone is actively sharing the love, so to speak, with regards to vintage perfumery. I've sent a request to join the group so hopefully that'll be approved and I'll make myself known.

    I'm sure I'll have more than my fair share of questions before too long. Diolch eto! Thanks again!
    The decant group isn't very active so if you don't get a reply you could try contacting David here on Basenotes: http://www.basenotes.net/members/1130-david

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Le vagabond View Post
    The decant group isn't very active so if you don't get a reply you could try contacting David here on Basenotes: http://www.basenotes.net/members/1130-david
    Thank you, yet again, Le Vagabond.

    Shemelimelle - give us a chance! I'm not sure unfortunately as I'm not US-based. By all means start another thread and ask there? What I've noticed is search first, thread later. Therein, you get some notice on your own thread, whereas joining in intermittently won't yield the results you're after - the title will be converse to the thread content if you see where I'm coming from!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    But I don’t know how to begin a new thread. I don’t know how to highlight a relevant statement in someone post, to which I can follow up with a question that might arise, again, in my own nagging mind. I don’t know lots of things. I didn’t know how to upload a pic without it coming up sideways or upside down! All I know is that for every one thing I know about fragrances, there’re ten things I don’t know.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Little update, I've procured a number of samples from a good, generous friend. She's kindly gifted me some difficult-to-obtain samples and I've tried a few out already. Posted my thoughts elsewhere but here they are, below;

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Guerlain Mitsouko EdC. - utterly unisex, but with a floral, fuzzy-peachy element to it. Lovely clean oakmoss in droves towards the dry-down but unfortunately, as to be expected with the concentration, didn't last a huge amount of time. Dry down did stick close to skin for approximately 6 hours, but was very much a skin scent. Worked well with the Imperial Oud Mysuru Ambur I sported after the dry down, which garnered an unsolicited compliment from the other half. EdC sample is from the '60s.

    Armani Armani. - Another vintage 'femme' but has a sweet, light, diffuse pineapple note which remains prominent. Again, sporting a typical 'femme' oakmoss, concurrent with the era. Not projecting a huge amount but a nice skin scent. I'm getting the feeling that some of these vintage femme fragrances were tailored towards close contact. Seen before smelled and smelled up-close. Intimate.

    Paco Rabanne La Nuit EdP. - Guess what, another vintage 'femme'. This time is a large blast of florals and pissy-sweet civet (I don't typically get much in the way of 'pee' notes from civet, but I can appreciate the angle). This is far more brash, brazen and in-your-face. La Nuit, as the title suggests, is perhaps tailored more towards evening wear, the disco scene. I very much like this one but can't imagine where I'd wear it, or under which context.
    I also have samples of '80s Mitsouko EdT and Weil Zibeline to try out! Exciting times. The Armani has now lost all of it's fruitiness approximately an hour and a half in so sits on the skin as a floral-oakmoss melange to my nose.

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    There's a seemingly inexhaustible supply of well-priced Mitsouko extraits on the Bay, so don't give up!

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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    But I don’t know how to begin a new thread. I don’t know how to highlight a relevant statement in someone post, to which I can follow up with a question that might arise, again, in my own nagging mind. I don’t know lots of things. I didn’t know how to upload a pic without it coming up sideways or upside down! All I know is that for every one thing I know about fragrances, there’re ten things I don’t know.
    I hope that I will phrase this well so that you understand it is not meant unkindly or as any sort of snark. Let me start by saying I am an older lady who has the great advantage (when vintage shopping) of having lived during the time many of these vintages were new/current as well as having been mentored in fragrances that I'd otherwise know nothing of by working as a housekeeper in the late 70s to mid 80s for a wealthy & generous perfumista with an incredible collection of both moderns and what were already at the time vintages. And yet, even with those assets and the further luxury of being retired early, thus having all the time in the world to access the internet, I have learned that two things you will absolutely need in order to successfully acquire vintages are patience and research. I have five children and was a single parent working at menial labor most of my adult life so buying perfumes beyond my absolute favorites wasn't an option but once my last baby went out into the world and I remarried a man with a good job I was excited to finally be able to go buy perfumes beyond my stashed vintages. I quickly spent way too much on the most popular moderns and realized I would need to buy vintage or forget a perfume collection as even most niche is just not up to my standards (and the few that are were generally priced higher than much better vintages) And I'm not dirt poor anymore but I am on disability and quite frugal/far from rich - I don't care to waste money and don't want to buy things I can't wear. I want things to be easy, at this age what brain cells didn't die during the 70s and 80s are tired. I seriously hate trying to learn new stuff like how to use a snipe program or where to find out how to be sure my Chanel is the proper age and not counterfeit or likely to be turned..and I am chronically ill and honestly don't have the iq or quickness I did decades ago. But there's no way around it. You can't expect to just decide "I wanna buy Chant d'Aromes" and go throw it in your basket like you can with La Vie Est Belle. You need to learn how/where to date or distinguish what it is you do want from what you don't, and you may want to consider learning how to successfully win an eBay auction, what buyers to avoid there and what warning flags to look out for (such as sellers who have 10 vintage open but full with no evaporation bottles of Shalimar or Sortilege - refilling empty vintage bottles with modern edp is a thing and higher priced does not at all always mean better - some of your best vintage buys can come from a.estate sellers and b.general antique people). Vintage CdA (a personal favorite) is not one of the most easy to find though it's definitely available but you probably won't get any just logging onto a random vintage Basenotes (or other forum) thread and saying "I want some". Searching on eBay is super easy and Google is your friend; you can get great information from this forum as well as maybe some on Facebook. If you're trying to buy something you want a buying thread here or a buying forum elsewhere (Facebook has many) or eBay or Etsy or Mercari or Goodwill or all of the above; same with swapping.

    I also will add that for Chant d'Aromes you may be a little more likely to find extrait than to find good bottles of the pre-80s cologne or pre-90s eau de toilette though those are definitely available as well. The extrait ages better though both of the other varieties mentioned can be excellent if they've been stored well. If you don't want watered down blah avoid anything post 2005, though for myself I'd go no younger than 1998ish. Avoid half filled bottles, any thing non-extrait that's either very dark or very light. Google "Guerlain flacons" and one of the first few searches it returns will be an excellent blog that has lists and graphics of all the sizes and styles of Guerlain bottles for each fragrance through the ages so you will know which eau de toilette is the better vintage etc or how much is in a bottle that a seller only lists the dimensions for and so on. Google "Raiders Lost Scent Guerlain" for how to date almost any Guerlain. Both sites are invaluable. If you want Chant d'Aromes eau de toilette start some eBay searches for chant d'aromes and save them - have them email you results every day even. For things that give you millions of results like say Shalimar learn to exclude things = Search for "Guerlain Shalimar -sample -samples -ad -extrait -light -souffle" and so on.

    Good luck. Eventually it can become a snap more or less except that the need for patience will remain (unless you don't mind being burned or you're wealthy and are okay with paying way more than you need to :P)

    Last edited by theladymay; 16th March 2019 at 05:43 PM. Reason: duh
    Currently wearing: Chunga by Weil

  27. #27
    Dependent Shemelimelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    theladymeh, I hope, in return, that I will phrase this well, so that you understand it is not meant unkindly, or as any sort of snark. Firstly, I refuse to have myself thrown off the site because someone unsavory and with low IQ put you up to this for costless kick. The fragrance hobby is equally mine to enjoy, and to indulge in. I belong here, as much as the rest of you, and now that I’m here, I have no plans on leaving. I did not sign up to pick pointless battles about things whether these are irrelevant, directly related or unrelated to the subject of perfumery, or of no business of mine (and yours, for that matter.) I did not sign up to entertain you or anyone else. This hobby is entertainment enough for me. Secondly and lastly, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! I WANNA BUY CHANT D’AROMES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by Shemelimelle; 16th March 2019 at 06:29 PM. Reason: In response to duh.
    “You are the bait. The bait is you.” ~Trick or Treat (1986)
    “Have a good time, all the time. That is my philosophy.” ~This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
    “Thrrrow yourselves into the river, dahlings!” ~Withnail and I (1987)

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Vintage Guerlain Chant D’Aromes. Any concentration. Older vintage preferred. Sampled 1960s edc. Superb. Patient but persistent. Ain’t nuttin’ in above quote I didn’t already know, or found helpful. Amused at the essay though.
    TLDR: Check out Number 4 in the list below this hilarious essay for a great vintage quality crimp sealed fairly priced non-extrait Chant d'Aromes Flacon de Voyage EdC made between 1962 - 1967 that I would buy for myself or someone I cared a lot for if I didn't already have too much.


    The "duh" in the reason for editing was a duh at myself for a string of serious typing errors & some poor spelling due to neurological hand damage that gives me tremors and the fact that I'm just a crappy typist anyhow. It's pretty much always my edit reason though I probably have also used "bc I'm a crappy typist" and the always popular "derp" too. I would never be rude to someone I don't even know in a forum post. If I thought poorly of you for some reason I wouldn't have used my hands to type as it's very diffiicult for me with palsy nor would I have stopped to spend any time to try to communicate with you. It was, like I said, meant only to possibly be of some help. I love Chant d'Aromes and hope you get some. Persistence is wonderful. And while I'm sorry that nothing was helpful - I don't see how you got the idea that I was being somehow vicious or battling about anything. Even though writing isn't one of my strong suits, you had to reach deep to get anything mean or insulting to you out of what I wrote. Goofy, dated - sure. I don't use emoticons well and have an old school uncool formal grammar style that I am beyond unlearning so whatever; while it really did feel surprisingly bad to be mocked on this forum for my amusing essay at least you had one positive response to an amount of typing I now wish much more than you that I hadn't bothered with. I had just read the whole thread and got the idea that you're new-ish (possibly misunderstood, I am waiting for new glasses and like I said I'm not so sharp since I got older and sicker and no longer take my adhd meds) and was honestly 100% sincerely hoping to possibly help a little since I have a closet full of vintages but no spare full bottles of CdA in anything but extrait and again I would be surprised if anyone here had what you're hoping to find in a whole bottle To clarify for myself, in this post (which I somehow missed in reading the so much funner "ladymeh" one earlier ho ho ha ha) you say any concentration but I think earlier in the thread you said not extrait if I'm correct? And you want a bottle not a decant, right? Because if that's wrong, either of those I could and would offer.

    For a good vintage non-extrait at a fair price you might want to look at these 7 that are on eBay - they're ones I would consider if I needed another bottle of edt or cologne or if one of my close friends was looking right now, from my permanent eBay CdA search returns this morning. I may have missed something about no eBay or maybe you specifically want one from a Basenoter in which case of course it's nothing to me - like my wordy and hilarious old lady vintage type post, and everything else I ever would post here or anywhere, please take what is worth anything to you and leave everything else. I don't know much about anything at all except babies, how and where to find pre 90s perfume, and some kinds of music. I come here because I am housebound and no longer physically able to work; it's nice to be among others who love and appreciate vintages and on BN I often hear more about attars and masculines too which I am interested in than one other forums. Occasionally I am able to help people by stuff like giving them decants or bottles of various things they want to know if they like since there's no Sephora for old Carons or helping them find a true vintage Paloma Picasso on eBay that isn't over priced and that's a nice thing for me and them. I need to pass things along before my time to shuffle off this mortal coil arrives and the price of vintage decants (not to mention the iffyness) would make it impossible for me to try them out if I was young and trying to make a living. Maybe its like a mom/grandmother thing. I had a very generous employer who shared many small vintages with me and allowed me to try everything she had. I mean she gave me 1/4 ounce of Joy in 1977 and my first BaV when I was poor as dirt and couldnt have gotten near them otherwise! I would never have known vintage No 22 or Sortilege or Chant d'Aromes while raising my 5 kids on minimum wage without her kindness. She also taught me so much. So I like to pay it forward whenever I can. I don't get joy from being rude or mean to people online or in person. I spent a life being tough by necessity and have been online daily since the early 90s (former rpg gamer and mudder) so I'm not new to trolls in certain places and situations. I'm not a born yesterday snowflake crybaby but I don't get any joy from conflict, rudeness, or arguing with strangers so I don't put myself in places like some political comment threads or reddit subs where that's a feature. I find it pretty shocking and hard to shake off having someone insult, mock and be full on nasty mean to me without cause in a place like BN where I come to listen and occasionally reach out to other people who share the love of fragrance (esp vintage) like you did today. It's never happened to me or anyone I've seen before here and I feel like it's probably not a place that I belong in now but otoh that's stupid. So I'm still posting these listings I had already culled after seeing all of your posts looking for it on the off chance that you or someone else can use one - that voyager bottle especially is a nice vtg non-parfum CdA find that I would grab myself if I could justify another backup lol, someone should get it. I get it that you will probably learn nothing you don't already know and that's fine.

    @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

    Here are the current best non-parfum vtg CdA options available in my opinion (which is not necessarily abd) considering wearable quality and value etc. They're all on eBay. I think I just now saw that you don't care for non capped testers so that will exclude at least one probably more. I'm okay with cap-less full tester sprays if boxed and well stored, I wrap them all in teflon tape and parafilm and since everything I own lives in a large dark closet it doesn't matter to me if they look awkward as long as they are beautiful to wear though I do love beautiful bottles like the Chant d'Aromes extrait bottles, but it's understandable to want caps for everything for sure. The travel bottle has one of those wonderful crimped on caps underneath the actual screw on cap that Chanel used for a time in the 50s/early 60s and those are really great to find, they really help with the freshness aspect. Anyhow I'm off to annoy someone else

    *I'm not affiliated with any of the sellers listed though I do know the one as I have disclosed in my notes/essay *

    1. EDT (50 ml tester, juice looks fine) Batch code = 1996 50$ BIN

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cha...4AAOSwIxVcYSru


    2. A 1992 tester EDT also 50 ml - I know this seller and they are excellent. 1992 will quite likely be more full bodied than 1996 as the IFRA reformulations probably started hardcore for Guerlain around 1995 so it may be worth 20$ more, the fact that it has a box is a plus as it means it did not sit in the sunlight over the years too.
    This one however is an auction that starts at 48$ish and has around 9$ shipping. Its of the first two the one I would prefer, so I'd pick my highest bid and queue it up in gixen which is a great and totally legal eBay snipe program, free unless you want to contribute and get the benefit of a backup server - you really don't need it. I'd probably bid 56.77 as thats a fair price but tbh you'll probably be the only bidder and get it for the opening price as its been up several times with no bids and CdA just isn't that popular in vtg edt

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Guerlain-Ch...IAAOSwW4dbsjN9


    3. A 95$ BIN 100ml Watch bottle of cologne made somewhere between 1967 - 1976 (cant get more accurate without box but those are great years for Guerlain colognes which are as strong or stronger than modern edts and edps) It seems to be still sealed with minor evaporation though no box means it may have sat out. The color looks fine.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/GUERLAIN-Ch...AAAOSwpfdcfYX1

    4. A 100 ml "Travel Bottle" of Cologne made between 1962 - 1967, little to no evaporation, sealed at the neck with a crimped seal which means its definitely never been opened and comes with the box. Probably hands down the best quality of the four so far - it does come from Israel, people who have used this seller says shipping time is reasonable. This was from the first five years of CdA when it was as good as it gets and the cologne from this period just like the extrait is top notch when stored well as this clearly has been. With shipping 120$ If I was going to buy any of the edts or colognes on eBay
    atm this would be the one (or number 6 if it weighs enough...)


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Chant-...IAAOSw5rxZzsEC


    5. The next one worth considering is a 6 oz watch bottle, opened, not entirely full, very faded label which indicates a high probability that it sat out in the sun (which is horrible for vintages esp light florals), pretty dark gold juice which is generally good but with an aldehydic like CdA is also going to indicate a strong chance of lost top notes (which if you're not an aldehyde freak you'll probably be fine with, but I think I read that you like aldehydes; I love them so would skip this one} It's a lot of juice, and is probably okay - more expensive than #4 at 134.98 and 7.51 shipping but of course per ounce it's much less pricey.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Gue...wAAOSwZjpcczrz

    6. There's another 6 oz watch bottle of cologne (I asked the height to find the size as the seller didnt have it listed and those bottles don't say their size without a box) which is definitely sealed and in slightly better condition as far as color, bottle condition and evaporation but it's 180$ inc shipping

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Chant-...IAAOSw5rxZzsEC


    7.Lastly, If you really seriously love CdA and think you could use 6 ounces of it there's one other option - it's a black spray edt tester bottle, priced around 229$, the type that they used in the gorgeous "Sucrier de Madame" dispenser thingys in Guerlain boutiques for a time. It's definitely a good vintage year etc. I would imagine you don't want or need that much and since it was for a sucrier tester it has no cap so I'm not putting the url here but if you do consider it you'd want to write the seller and ask for the weight of the bottle (NOT the volume but what the bottle weighs if they sit it on a scale like it is, no box) because the testers are opaque and I dont know this seller - they could sell half a bottle and you wouldnt know but I have what the full weights should be in my files, and will be happy to get that info for you if you do want it. (If you ever decide to do decants which you can sell and swap on Basenotes and FB forums you could easily make a LOT of decants and still have a lot of juice for you too!) Because its an aluminum container the bottle weighs like nothing and the juice inside will be about as fresh as a vintage can get since no light or air can reach it (Which is a big plus for those ugly but great smelling Rive Gauche cans and the aluminum Montales, any others like them too) I've had a couple with Parure and Vol de Nuit in them and they are ugly without the Sucriers but boy the juice was awesome.
    Currently wearing: Chunga by Weil

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Hello TheLadyMay! As soon as the topic Chant d'Aromes came up, I thought of you. You are going to have us all wearing Chant d'Aromes at this rate.

    And Benz3ne, apologies for continuing to send your thread down this Chant d'Aromes path! How did you like your samples of Armani for Women, Zibeline, and Mitsouko?
    Currently wearing: Muse by Coty

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    theladymay, thank you for the eBay listings you provided, though all of them totally useless to me. (I won’t purchase from overseas, or from a seller that does not accept returns, and I cannot bid or leave feedback, since I chose to remain a “guest” buyer, after opening and closing 3 or 4 eBay buyer accounts over the years for unrelated hobby purchases.) I think it prudent for me to wait for vivientreasures, the eBay seller I bought the SUPERB 1ml ‘60s edc sample from, to put up a listing. Not to change the subject or repeat myself ad nauseum like a broken record, it’s like I said, I didn’t sign up here to pick fights, so if ever I type something that comes off “wrong”, I apologize in advance to all the members here. We’re all adults here. I do not hold grudges, but I will readily “ignore” someone who willfully pesters me.
    “You are the bait. The bait is you.” ~Trick or Treat (1986)
    “Have a good time, all the time. That is my philosophy.” ~This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
    “Thrrrow yourselves into the river, dahlings!” ~Withnail and I (1987)




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