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  1. #1

    Default Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    Hello all , first post here. I just want to say what a great site this is. I have been looking through the site and itís great to see such a community and wealth of accessible information. I recently purchased some concentrated perfume oil and some fractionated coconut oil. The problem Iím finding is that when I mix 20% concentrated fragrance oil to 80% 10ml total the resulting mixture smells very weak nor does it last long when patch tested on my skin. Could this be due to a poor quality concentrated oil or does the perfume mixture Iíve made need to age at all?

    Sorry to be a newb, I did search the forums first but couldnít find exactly what I wanted to know.

    Any information would be much appreciated

    Regards

    Pete

  2. #2

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    I'm sorry that I don't have an answer, but I too am having the exact same problem. The fragrance oils I blend in my test vial smell nice and strong but as soon as I put them in a roller and add fractionated coconut oil the scent all but disappears ...very frustrating :/

  3. #3

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    Welcome Plogik and Miakoda,

    This is an easy question to answer: the problem is the oil. Coconut oil is heavy and non-evaporating, so instead of lifting the scent into the air the way volatile, fast-drying perfume alcohol does, instead oil weighs it down and traps the scent on your skin. It's not impossible to make a strong oil-based perfume, but you would have to design your recipe from scratch for that purpose, and pre-blended perfume concentrates that you buy are probably not designed for that.

    Most of us here on the board use an alcohol base because it's easier to work with. However there are some other neutral-smelling bases that might work for roller-balls: isopropyl myristate, triethyl citrate, coco caprylate, or hemi-squalane.
    Last edited by Septime; 20th August 2019 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Oh right, I forgot to mention triethyl citrate!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    There's limited value to my post, because I've used hemisqualane and coco caprylate only in cosmetics and have never tried them as fragrance carriers.

    These are both very nice (sensorially speaking) materials that I'd be glad to work with in a non-ethanolic fragrance application, but it must be kept in mind that one must formulate beginning to end in the material, judging from my experience with FCO and a very good Perfumer&Flavorist article in bio based hydrocarbon fragrance carriers. You cannot copy the proportions of alcohol formulas nor can the development of the fragrance over time come out the exact same, and longevity will generally be less. To me this is not bad, it is different and a nice thing is not so many people and companies are doing fine work in oils or bio based hydrocarbons as they are in alcohol.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    How long after adding the FCO are you waiting to test it?
    I would wait several days at minimum before judging strength and longevity.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  6. #6

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    I make natural, mostly oil, based perfumes. Yes - coconut oil (MCT or FCO) can reduce both the sillage and tenacity of scents.
    Here is what I have learned.

    1) if you are open to using synthetics (the fragrance oil you have sounds synthetic) this should not be an issue as there are many synthetic additives to extending the scent and increasing its presence

    2) For oil-based scents, I've had to experiment and find a mix of oils that increased the longevity on the skin but also immediate dispersion. This requires time and practice. I moved away from FCO as I could not successfully use it and a lot of folks have nut allergies and are afraid of using coconut products even if they have no nut allergy impact. I now use a needlessly complicated blend of oils that I let 'mix' for over a year which includes sandalwood and frankincense. I also have tried to remove all jojoba oil as the main base as I have found this to have the same issue as FCO.

    3) I generally now make all concentrations at a minimum of 30%, unlike when selling ETOH mixes where I can reduce easily to 20%.

    4) I test in the actual final oil concentration rather than the full concentration. What this means is all my oils are diluted based on scent concentration already, so if Frankincense is mild, I'll dilute it to a 25% concentration, if violet leaf oil is very strong then I will dilute it to a 1% concentration, patchouli to 9% and so forth until I get an equivalent level of concentrations. When I concoct my scents, they end up being in their final concentrations as if they were already diluted, which lets me plan them much better.

    5) Fragrances need to sit inside their binder and base until they combine. Your scent may smell both stronger as well as better after sitting for a while together with the FCO. Not always the case, but usually improves.

    6) The formula itself needs to be constructed in a way the works with oils, this is very different from ETOH. When I make a scent for both, I have to change the ingredient concentrations. For example, for a solid perfume, I add the most amount of top notes, especially citrus, which is hard to maintain in that format. For an oil, slightly less citrus than a solid, and for an ETOH, even less, as in the alcohol case the citrus/top notes are both vibrant and sparkly to start so they do not need to be enhanced.

    I have so many more but fried for the day. Will add later.
    Last edited by mewmew; 30th August 2019 at 02:01 AM. Reason: Added Text

  7. #7

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    Something I haven't seen anyone mention is surface area of application. For some reason most people don't apply enough when using roller balls.

    Think about the area covered when spraying an alcohol based perfume -- you're covering about a 4-6 inch radius circle.

    Roller ball application seems to be 1-3 inch area.



    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  8. #8

    Default Re: Concentrated perfume oil + FCO = weak perfume ? -_-

    Very important point.




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