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  1. #1
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Need the thoughts of your fine minds this Saturday morning about Roja Dove's Diaghilev...

    - If $$ was not an issue, will you buy it?


    - Which others out there, excluding Misuoko, are close to this Roja creation?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post

    If $$ was not an issue, will you buy it?
    If it were a house I collected, I'd personally buy it as I think it's quite nice. Cost would not be an issue.
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  3. #3
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    Need the thoughts of your fine minds this Saturday morning about Roja Dove's Diaghilev...

    - If $$ was not an issue, will you buy it?


    - Which others out there, excluding Misuoko, are close to this Roja creation?
    I have the same question.

    If you buy, I'd request to buy a 5 ml split from you.
    Currently wearing: Yatagan by Caron

  4. #4

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    Need the thoughts of your fine minds this Saturday morning about Roja Dove's Diaghilev...

    - If $$ was not an issue, will you buy it?

    - Which others out there, excluding Misuoko, are close to this Roja creation?
    The collector part of me would love to own it, for no other reason than the presentation. The bottles and boxes in Roja's "imperial collection" are lovely. Particularly Nuwa and Diaghilev.

    However the practical enthusiast part of me (which is all of me), sees zero reason to own it. I don't like owning fragrances I have to force myself to wear. At my age, the only appropriate places to wear it would be museums or the theater. If I did buy a bottle, it would last me till the day I died and even then I'd have 60ml of the 100ml left over to pass on to a child.


    As for your question regarding alternatives, perhaps I should tell you the words of a Russian colleague of mine when I asked her opinion. Directly compared smelling one wrist with Roja Diaghilev, and the other wrist with Areej Koh-i-Noor. She says "I prefer Koh-I-Noor. It's more Diaghilev than Diaghilev".

    Use that interpretation as you wish. Good luck.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: Bonheur by Bortnikoff

  5. #5

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    No I would pass on this even if it was priced the same as a designer. The dominant oakmoss and civet in this comes across as something from another age. It smells very stuffy to me, I could imagine opening a Egyptian sarcophagus in a museum and taking a sniff at the mummies embalmed corpse and smelling this scent. lol
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

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    Currently wearing: Dewaniya by Sultan Pasha

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    ^^^ Nice analogy there Jack!!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    The dominant oakmoss and civet in this comes across as something from another age. It smells very stuffy to me, I could imagine opening a Egyptian sarcophagus in a museum and taking a sniff at the mummies embalmed corpse and smelling this scent.
    ... which is EXACTLY why I personally love this scent. My bottle was well worth the purchase.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    No I would pass on this even if it was priced the same as a designer. The dominant oakmoss and civet in this comes across as something from another age. It smells very stuffy to me
    Pretty much. In my opinion, you can accomplish the exact same "fragrance mood" by wearing Chanel No.5 Eau de Toilette or Areej Le Dore Koh-i-Noor. Both purchases are of very nice quality and will leave you several hundred additional dollars.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: Bonheur by Bortnikoff

  9. #9

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    For those chasing the vintage Chypre rush, I wouldn't recommend diaghilev honestly. For all the "baroque" and "orchestrated symphony" references, while true, is misleading. You do get a big oakmoss accord, but it is a very static one. Pretty banal compared to other Chypres you can find, i.e. Chypre Siam and Russian Musk, that are constructed in a truer "Chypre" fashion. When proper materials are used you feel far more tactile and complex results, so more character. Although diaghilev declares "look how big and baroque I am!", when you sit with it over time, and especially when you study it alongside fragrances like the above, its almost like all talk and no show. You showed up to the Ballet Russes two hours late, the civet also feels like it has had pinholes stuck through it. That's not to say it should be loud, since extraits soften nicely, but if it was able to use proper bergamot or oakmoss, amongst other things, then it might've actually been worth the hype.

    And for those that think about price (I'm not against aspirational pricing in most cases), £795 for a dissapointing chypre experience, or ~£55 for an EdT (not parfum concentration but it has exceptional character and richness) that uses heyday levels of nitromusks, eugenol, lily odourants, ionones, on top of unadulterated bergamot, oakmoss and lime. If you look in the right place you can really find supreme quality chypre perfumes designed on a vintage level.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by HauteParfumGourmand View Post
    For those chasing the vintage Chypre rush, I wouldn't recommend diaghilev honestly. For all the "baroque" and "orchestrated symphony" references, while true, is misleading. You do get a big oakmoss accord, but it is a very static one. Pretty banal compared to other Chypres you can find, i.e. Chypre Siam and Russian Musk,
    I think Diaghilev, Mitsuko, Chanel No.5, and Koh I Noor can all go into the vintage "Baroque / Orchestrated Symphony" mood of fragrances.

    Russian Musk doesn't smell remotely vintage to me. It's too fresh and wearable (lol) to my nose. A far cry from that "old museum / attic / stuffy" character that are found in the others.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: Bonheur by Bortnikoff

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    As much as I like Diaghilev I doubt if I’ll ever get a lot of wears out of it. But that readily applies to just about any fragrance in a large wardrobe of collection. If I were to have a wardrobe of just 10 bottles I’d probably get it.

  12. #12
    Dependent saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    The closest to Diaghilev is Rochas Femme, in my opinion - vintage but not too vintage (has to be the version with the nice sweaty cumin).

  13. #13

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    I really enjoy Diaghlev and I just waited for a partial bottle to pop up as 100ml is just too much for me


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  14. #14

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by wood&leather View Post
    I think Diaghilev, Mitsuko, Chanel No.5, and Koh I Noor can all go into the vintage "Baroque / Orchestrated Symphony" mood of fragrances.

    Russian Musk doesn't smell remotely vintage to me. It's too fresh and wearable (lol) to my nose. A far cry from that "old museum / attic / stuffy" character that are found in the others.
    What is very surprising when you smell Chypre at the osmotheque is how fresh and tropical it is at first, almost banana tropical as strange as it sounds. The only thing I would find challenging about Coty's Chypre would be quinolines and the green leatheriness they give out, but I have grown to like them a fair bit. I think the idea of a Chypre being stuffy / old fashioned came from the descendants of Chypre that wanted to add their twist, particularly by overdosing on leather accords in the 30-60's or engineering overtly mossy accords 70's-90's. Nitromusks can give a very "old" feel if you have certain associations with them I'd imagine, but I don't. For what it's worth Coty Chypre feels very wearable, but spin-offs like Cabochard Gres or Rochas Femme are more challenging by comparison. This is what I mean when I refer to Russian Musk in particular being very Chypre, the really old kind that feel timelessly wearable.

    But with diaghilev, although nice, it just misses the mark for me, it has big accords sure but they grow static and lack character or real depth. This is even more evident when you compare it to Chypre style perfumes that have a lot more depth, tactile feel, and most importantly the feeling of being pulled from top to base (maintaining the chypre abstraction and balance) throughout the development. I guess there wouldn't be this issue without restrictions, but even other companies that have to comply by regulatory standards can still do a great job in delivering a Chypre composition.

    Also if you get your hands on a properly preserved vintage Mitsouko there is a great deal of freshness, probably even more when it was freshly blended, even after taking into account that 50% of the formula was allegedly bergamot, the fresh fruitiness lasts quite a while. Fantastic amount of spices and a little anise feel too.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    My only concern is the animalistic civet present in the fragrance.
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  16. #16
    Dependent MELVCMS01's Avatar
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    I bought mine last year, and have absolute no regrets at all.

    I also don't agree with most of the guys statements above..

    Try it for yourself and decide.

    In my top 10 of all time without question.
    Such an intoxicating fragrance, and that comes at an intoxicating cost.

  17. #17
    Super Member yoshimi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    I own Jubilation 25 (for Woman) from Amouage and thanks to a generous member here I had the opportunity to test a small decant of Roja Dove's Diaghilev.
    To my nose, they are close, in the same vein. However Diagilev is more refined, impressive and extremely powerful.
    I just had a sniff of my empty vial...if money would not be a problem, I would buy it on the spot.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    I have a 7.5 ml that will last a very long time. When the time comes I will be seeking a way to replenish the supply but unless I win a lottery or cut my collection a full bottle is unlikely. Diaghilev is one of a half dozen Roja I would have full bottles of if money was not an issue.
    Currently wearing: Herod by Parfums de Marly

  19. #19

    Default Re: Roja Dove Diaghilev - buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by HauteParfumGourmand View Post
    What is very surprising when you smell Chypre at the osmotheque is how fresh and tropical it is at first, almost banana tropical as strange as it sounds. The only thing I would find challenging about Coty's Chypre would be quinolines and the green leatheriness they give out, but I have grown to like them a fair bit. I think the idea of a Chypre being stuffy / old fashioned came from the descendants of Chypre that wanted to add their twist, particularly by overdosing on leather accords in the 30-60's or engineering overtly mossy accords 70's-90's. Nitromusks can give a very "old" feel if you have certain associations with them I'd imagine, but I don't. For what it's worth Coty Chypre feels very wearable, but spin-offs like Cabochard Gres or Rochas Femme are more challenging by comparison. This is what I mean when I refer to Russian Musk in particular being very Chypre, the really old kind that feel timelessly wearable.

    But with diaghilev, although nice, it just misses the mark for me, it has big accords sure but they grow static and lack character or real depth. This is even more evident when you compare it to Chypre style perfumes that have a lot more depth, tactile feel, and most importantly the feeling of being pulled from top to base (maintaining the chypre abstraction and balance) throughout the development. I guess there wouldn't be this issue without restrictions, but even other companies that have to comply by regulatory standards can still do a great job in delivering a Chypre composition.

    Also if you get your hands on a properly preserved vintage Mitsouko there is a great deal of freshness, probably even more when it was freshly blended, even after taking into account that 50% of the formula was allegedly bergamot, the fresh fruitiness lasts quite a while. Fantastic amount of spices and a little anise feel too.
    Cheers for this post, very informative. A few things in here I will seek out to research.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: Bonheur by Bortnikoff




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