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  1. #1

    Angry Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    A house I'd always wanted to dip into and explore more HOWEVER I now see that some of the more interesting fragrances (e.g. Fille en Aiguilles) have been shifted into the 'skyscraper' bottle with a truly crazy price of (£260) for 100mls (Hard to believe? see Liberty website et al.)

    Looks like Lutens has all of a sudden become out-of-reach for many fragrance enthusiasts.

    Serge Lutens - where the bottles as well as the prices are shooting up like skyscrapers.

    p.s. those new bottles look like a gear stick from some heavy duty agricultural vehicle.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I was a late adopter to this house as it started with only 50ml offerings, but a few years ago relaunched many of the classics in 100ml sizes which I was personally happy with (I think about 17). The design of the latest 100ml black bottles doesn't bother me and happy that more of the great fragrances are available. For me, better later than never.
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I agree with you that it is very disappointing that prices have gone up. But the point is, all other houses, often inferior, are now peddling ridiculously priced perfumes, so Lutens (ie Shiseido) has followed suit.

    I still remember when the bell jars were talked about like a superexpensive luxury. Now they'd be average price for niche.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by ION-ONE View Post

    p.s. those new bottles look like a gear stick from some heavy duty agricultural vehicle.
    I lol'd. that is hilariously specific.



    as for the price. meh:

    MFK 540 Extrait - $425 for 70ml.
    Tom Ford FFabulous - $320 for 50ml.
    Creed Viking - $495 for 100ml (lol)

    100ml for $375... that pricing actually isn't too offensive when you factor in what some of the aforementioned brands are charging. if the quality is there I don't mind.



    ...that said, I agree. bottle design is quite ridiculous.
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  5. #5
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I would be more interested in Lutens if:

    1. He hadn't reformulated so many of his classics (MKK, Fumerie Turque, Iris Silver Mist, etc.).
    2. His current/most recent offerings were as good as his older scents.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by wood&leather View Post
    I lol'd. that is hilariously specific.



    as for the price. meh:

    MFK 540 Extrait - $425 for 70ml.
    Tom Ford FFabulous - $320 for 50ml.
    Creed Viking - $495 for 100ml (lol)

    100ml for $375... that pricing actually isn't too offensive when you factor in what some of the aforementioned brands are charging. if the quality is there I don't mind.



    ...that said, I agree. bottle design is quite ridiculous.
    I have to second your sentiment. It's not "truly crazy prices" when we compare with Stephane Humbert, Xerjoff, Henry Jacques, Roja Dove, MDCI, Widian, Creed, Ex Nihilo, Amouage, Tom Ford etc etc. I could go on forever.

    Serge is niche and I think it's very reasonably priced when viewed as such. It is a pity about rising prices but they are really not that shocking, to put it mildly. I myself find it startling that you'd find that price shocking when nestled around everything else on the Liberty website. I would've thought those prices would seem an absolute steal compared to everything else on offer there.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    My assumption is that it's a "Jumping on the bandwagon" thing.

    Both with prices, and with weaker reformulations.

    Not liking the trend of those dark bottles though. Same with the dark bottles of L'Artisan. Being able to see the color of the juice was "fun" as far as I was concerned, but with rising prices I guess everything's supposed to be much more serious now. And projection is seen as an intrusion.
    Currently wearing: Daim Blond by Serge Lutens

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I agree with you that it is very disappointing that prices have gone up. But the point is, all other houses, often inferior, are now peddling ridiculously priced perfumes, so Lutens (ie Shiseido) has followed suit.

    I still remember when the bell jars were talked about like a superexpensive luxury. Now they'd be average price for niche.

    cacio
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    He could have retained a 50-ml option for those not wanting to spend almost $400. But, you know ... greed.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Guess we'll have to wait until these flush out onto eBay like all the others.
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  11. #11

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I agree with you that it is very disappointing that prices have gone up. But the point is, all other houses, often inferior, are now peddling ridiculously priced perfumes, so Lutens (ie Shiseido) has followed suit.

    I still remember when the bell jars were talked about like a superexpensive luxury. Now they'd be average price for niche.

    cacio
    the good old days...
    Currently wearing: Samsara by Guerlain

  12. #12

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I don't think the pricing itself is strictly the issue, as there are many brands that have similar pricing and a similar qualiy of scents. However, the issue is that SL's regular line used to be a very affordable entry to niche, which it isn't really is anymore. The price change was way too drastic and quick, and pretty much a slap to the face for people who started off with the brand years ago.

    Also, having 5 different lines (Noire, L'or, Paris Exclusive aka Bell Jars, Gratte Ciel and new the Cologne range) is really confusing and redundant.

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentMemory View Post
    He could have retained a 50-ml option for those not wanting to spend almost $400. But, you know ... greed.
    The regular collection has become available in 50ml bottles a few months after launch, albeit with a 'new and improved' price.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Is he even in control of the prices anymore? Not even sure what is happening but noticed I’m back getting offers every fortnight. When I discovered the house people were discussing only a handful of the fragrances frequently. Personally I fell in love with so many of them and thought the prices were very good compared to others I was looking at. Knowing what happened to farouche by Nina Ricci I just stocked up on everything. My father loved this house so I could dabble with MKK, F Turque Rose de Nuit and many others and think ‘these are gorgeous’. When favourites like sa majesty de rose and Serge Noir were discontinued I went hunting everywhere and there were good deals around. As I did with Sahara Noir and others.

    The prices are crazy compared to what they were ( and the zillion presents they sent like the little miniatures) but I would still buy the new formulations If I ran dry ( and that’s highly unlikely given at one point I was out of control and would order 15 bottles of FeA as an example ) and still buy the new releases. What I don’t like is the disharmony of how I store them. Love the straight lines of the earlier bottles and the bell jars on their shelf.
    "For the wise it is easy to go anywhere. Because the whole world is home to a good soul"....Democritus 470-370BC

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Lutens tested the market with Section d’Or back in 2014 to see how the market respond to stratospheric prices for fragrances of similar quality. Apparently people were still willing to part with their money even at those ridiculous prices. The inflated pricetags of the Gratte Ciel look like bargains in comparison.

    Personally, I’m done with this house. Sheldrake’s departure left a big hole IMO.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Lutens tested the market with Section d’Or back in 2014 to see how the market respond to stratospheric prices for fragrances of similar quality. Apparently people were still willing to part with their money even at those ridiculous prices. The inflated pricetags of the Gratte Ciel look like bargains in comparison.

    Personally, I’m done with this house. Sheldrake’s departure left a big hole IMO.
    Didn’t even know Sheldrake left. That’s very sad ��His creations were incredible. My money will just go to the areej, sultan pasha and more from Salam (abdesdessalaam ) he’s the last person in greed and magnificent scents. Pierre Guillaume and Sarah McCartney another two stars who could have doubted their prices but have an ethos of affordability. Xerjoff and MFK I adore so I’m going to stick with them as well.
    "For the wise it is easy to go anywhere. Because the whole world is home to a good soul"....Democritus 470-370BC

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    The price gouging doesn't bother near as much as the fall-off in quality and apparently any interest in creating quality fragrances anymore. And this has been an ongoing problem for Serge Lutens for the last decade. That's the real loss of plot, imo.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    The price gouging doesn't bother near as much as the fall-off in quality and apparently any interest in creating quality fragrances anymore. And this has been an ongoing problem for Serge Lutens for the last decade. That's the real loss of plot, imo.
    Of course, this is all subjective, but I don't think the quality has fallen that much. If anything, it has picked up lately.

    Section d'Or - whilst overpriced - is high quality, and Bapteme de Feu, Dent de Lait and Le Participe Passe from the regular range are all very good and a return to form in my opinion.

    The only ones truly mediocre that came out were before that: Laine de Verre, L'Eau de Paille, L'Orpheline and La Religieuse were really not up to par with usual standards and too conceptual for my liking. And once again, before this, you had De Profundis, La Fille de Berlin, Jeux de Peau, Un Voix Noire and Santal Majuscule, which in some ways were rather innovative and great.

    It seems that it is all about peaks and troughs with this brand, and hopefully, they're on the way up.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    Of course, this is all subjective, but I don't think the quality has fallen that much. If anything, it has picked up lately.

    Section d'Or - whilst overpriced - is high quality, and Bapteme de Feu, Dent de Lait and Le Participe Passe from the regular range are all very good and a return to form in my opinion.

    The only ones truly mediocre that came out were before that: Laine de Verre, L'Eau de Paille, L'Orpheline and La Religieuse were really not up to par with usual standards and too conceptual for my liking. And once again, before this, you had De Profundis, La Fille de Berlin, Jeux de Peau, Un Voix Noire and Santal Majuscule, which in some ways were rather innovative and great.

    It seems that it is all about peaks and troughs with this brand, and hopefully, they're on the way up.
    The only ones I've liked, of the half dozen or so that I've tried from those listed, have been Le Fille de Berlin and Santal Majuscule. Some of the others I've just outright dismissed without even bothering to wear.
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    Currently wearing: Patchouli by Réminiscence

  19. #19

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    Also, having 5 different lines (Noire, L'or, Paris Exclusive aka Bell Jars, Gratte Ciel and new the Cologne range) is really confusing and redundant.
    This is a really good point. The brand is falling into the trap of spewing out redundant releases at an incredible rate, hoping something will stick. One of them might be good, but who's still sampling all of them? This used to be a hot, hot brand on Basenotes. Releases were big news. Now it's rarely mentioned save for some of the classics, most of which are deceased or only sold in France, and thus entirely unknown to many members.

    The pricing is distasteful but not unexpected; trying pull that off while diluting your brand and alienating fans is just not smart.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    "Has Serge Lutens lost the plot..?"...is that the same as "jumped the shark?" I never fully got that expression but I still think it's funny! XD

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I wouldn’t mind the price hikes if he hadn’t reformulated and ruined most of the scents I loved.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by LadyDragonFire View Post
    "Has Serge Lutens lost the plot..?"...is that the same as "jumped the shark?" I never fully got that expression but I still think it's funny! XD
    Henry Winkler, aka The Fonz, explains:

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  23. #23

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    To a large extent I think, yes. It's understandable that some are re-formulated due to EU regs / IFRA etc. - and I guess most brands 're-package' from time to time. That said, I picked up 50ml back-ups a while ago so not too concerned. The 100ml versions are a bit tame (a generalisation, I admit).

    I have spent a year dropping into the Serge counter here trying the 'Parfum' line - most of which come in at around USD 700 / 800. I think - and, try as I might, I can't find even one that I would happily own at USD 100 . . . go figure.

    The 'Eau' series is also a bit weird. I bought the first one (Lemon Pledge) because I thought he was being ironic and I wanted the large re-fill bottle (I use it for Granville these days) but the subsequent releases, while obviusly having some thought put into them, just seemed a bit pointless.

    I hope he's making money from these new concepts - given his (and Sheldrake's) contribution to modern perfumery he certainly deserves it - but I'm not really a customer anymore and I'd be wary about recommending my faves in their current incarnations unless I could try them before telling a friend to try / buy.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Henry Winkler, aka The Fonz, explains:

    Oh thanks Scarce! XD I think I had heard before that it referred to the water-ski jump (over a shark.) Literally. lol But the expression seems to get used to refer to things like, when TV shows start to suck, for example! XD (Or I've heard it used that way anyway.) So, maybe the term just gets mis-used, or taken out of context a lot? (Or maybe it was supposed to mean if you do something stupidly risky, like, something that will kill your TV show ratings or something.) That seems hugely like hyperbole to me though! But yeah..basically..I think the OP meant "jumped the shark." XD

  25. #25

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Thanks for letting me know. I'll have to raise the prices of the Lutens bottles I'm selling on ebay. LOL.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    Thanks for letting me know. I'll have to raise the prices of the Lutens bottles I'm selling on ebay. LOL.

    I lol'd at that one!

    Thank you kindly.

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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    Thanks for letting me know. I'll have to raise the prices of the Lutens bottles I'm selling on ebay. LOL.
    Scalper alert. Get the pitchforks and torches.
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I thought Fille arguille was discontinued .Ive always tried to find a bottle but couldn't.
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  29. #29

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Quote Originally Posted by debussychopin View Post
    I thought Fille arguille was discontinued .Ive always tried to find a bottle but couldn't.
    It was a limited release in the old 50ml format years ago, but is now part of the 'Gratte Ciel' collection.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Half the strength, double the price... The Lutens Way!




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