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  1. #1
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    Default Very simple accords for newbies

    Hi there!


    I've been looking in the forum for very very simple accord formulas for newbies, like me! But couldn't find any.

    So, I've just started studying AC and I'm wondering if there is any accords made of 2-3 classical AC I should know.

    Maybe something like allyl amyl glycolate + ethylbutirate (6:4) = pineapple ?


    Please share !

    Thank you

  2. #2

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    e.g.: very classic rose accord: phenyl ethyl alcohol + citronellol + geraniol. try to bring the first two in balance, and then start adding the third one. you'll learn a lot about your materials doing it that way.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Thank you pavomi, this is exactly what I'm looking for! Lets start with this one

  4. #4

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    i also want to recommend the book 'The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics, Fragrances and Flavors' by Louis Appell. its a fantastic resource for formulas.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Raspberry Accord:
    Raspberry Ketone, alpha-ionone, beta-ionone

    Source:
    Larsen and co-workers identified raspberry ketone and α- and β-ionone as the most important aromas in the 10 different raspberry varieties investigated (Rubus idaeus cv. Camenzind, Chilcotin, Glen Prosen, Glen Moy, Glen Clova, Meeker, Rutrago, Skeena, Vaten and Zenith) [15]. They confirmed that pure raspberry aroma was highly dependent on raspberry ketone content, while α- and β-ionone were found to be important for the overall aroma. α-Ionone in raspberry is known to be present in the (R)-enantiomeric form [33,34,67], which is reported to produce a violet-like, fruity, raspberry-type, floral odor [68], while β-ionone is described as “fragrant” and “floral”
    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6272157/

    I haven't personally tried this one, but its partially based on science, so I trust it somewhat.

    I know, 3 chemicals seems simple, but when your adding numerous Accords in a blend you might get some additive effects from other Accords. Especially if they are similar scented. So this would be a good starting point and maybe the Maltol, Coumarin, Vanillin, etc. that you may use for another note in the blend helps smoothen it out or something.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    My dark pineapple accord by drops small sample size: (All 100% non diluted)

    Fructone---------------------------8 Great rounding tropical fruit note
    Pharaone--------------------------6 Metallic pineapple
    Allyl Cyclohexyl Propionate---2 Provides lift and watery nuances
    Fruitate-----------------------------2 Adds some sparkle and lift
    Allyl Amyl Glycolate-------------1 Adds depth and rounding effects
    Ethyl Caproate-------------------1 The bulk of the juicy pineapple aroma we all know
    Hexalon----------------------------1 Waxy galbanum effect adds sugary sweetness

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by pavomi View Post
    i also want to recommend the book 'The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics, Fragrances and Flavors' by Louis Appell. its a fantastic resource for formulas.
    I've been trying to get that one but it seems imposible from Spain, found one online for 650 € lol. I'll keep trying


    Quote Originally Posted by d r e View Post
    Raspberry Accord:
    Raspberry Ketone, alpha-ionone, beta-ionone

    .....

    I haven't personally tried this one, but its partially based on science, so I trust it somewhat.

    I know, 3 chemicals seems simple, but when your adding numerous Accords in a blend you might get some additive effects from other Accords. Especially if they are similar scented. So this would be a good starting point and maybe the Maltol, Coumarin, Vanillin, etc. that you may use for another note in the blend helps smoothen it out or something.

    Definetly will try today! And I'll let you know, thank you for your input.



    Quote Originally Posted by SharpLess View Post
    My dark pineapple accord by drops small sample size: (All 100% non diluted)

    Fructone---------------------------8 Great rounding tropical fruit note
    Pharaone--------------------------6 Metallic pineapple
    Allyl Cyclohexyl Propionate---2 Provides lift and watery nuances
    Fruitate-----------------------------2 Adds some sparkle and lift
    Allyl Amyl Glycolate-------------1 Adds depth and rounding effects
    Ethyl Caproate-------------------1 The bulk of the juicy pineapple aroma we all know
    Hexalon----------------------------1 Waxy galbanum effect adds sugary sweetness
    Sadly I dont have almost any of these, but I'll get them eventually, so thank you for your input.


    So far I've tried pavomi suggestion, and modified it by adding rose oxide, alpha ionone and Hedione as I find PEA a little bit too sulfure-like.


    Thank you all!!

  8. #8
    Basenotes Member elivasiliou's Avatar
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    The Grosjman accord is a great one - Hedione, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Methyl Ionone
    New explorer into DIY perfumery. I blog my fragrant ramblings at Nose Dives.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    True, I've been reading about that one, but everyone seems to discuss actual AC and % of it. Do you have any advice of % based on experience ?

    Thank you!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by zerlotus View Post
    True, I've been reading about that one, but everyone seems to discuss actual AC and % of it. Do you have any advice of % based on experience ?

    Thank you!
    You really need to experiment in this game. Try equal parts iso and hedione then begin to add methyl ionone to taste. Musk etc. You cant break anything you know haha
    Currently wearing: Dunhill Icon by Dunhill

  11. #11
    Basenotes Member elivasiliou's Avatar
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    There's a thread on here called 'grosjman accord' (can't link to it, sorry), and that has some %s including some suggestions from Pkiler.
    I've used it to build my own 'male cuddle' and 'female cuddle' accords , and generally I've gone heavier on the Galaxolide and more equal on the others - then added musks, ambroxan, cedramber etc.
    New explorer into DIY perfumery. I blog my fragrant ramblings at Nose Dives.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    The Grosjman accord is unusual because for once you don't need to be precise. All of the materials are so mild that a bit more or less won't hurt, it will still work. 'Roughly equal portions' is what people usually say. I'd suggest trying it three ways: a) without methyl ionone, b) with it, and c) with methyl ionone but replace the Iso E Super with phenyl ethyl alcohol.

    I shook out my notes file for accords that came with measurements. Note, I haven't personally tried them all.

    9 benzyl salicylate : 2 eugenol is the beginning of the carnation accord in many classic fragrances.

    20 benzoin : 5 labdanum : 1 vanilla is Mandy Aftel's all-botanical amber.

    Philip Kraft's FB page is full of freebie accords and formulae:
    White violet: 30 dihydro-beta-ionone : 10 alpha-ionone : 3 beta-ionone
    More orris-like variation: 10 dihydro-beta-ionone : 1 alpha-ionone : 5 beta-ionone
    Nonspecific light floral: 1 nerol : 1 nerolidol : 1 Hedione
    Ditto: 5 Hedione : 2 linalool
    From one of Kraft's students, honey: 4 Azabre : 1 methyl phenylacetate.

    J. Sparla shared his Creed-type cologne accord: 10 ambroxan : 2 dihydromyrcenol : 1 allyl amyl glycolate : 1 ambergris 3% tincture (if you can afford it!)

    6 linalyl acetate : 5 linalool, or better yet 13 : 12 = the perfumer's preferred grade of lavender. (Note that just about any possible proportion of those two components is found somewhere in nature, e.g. roughly 2 : 1 in bergamot, 4 : 1 in clary sage, 5 : 2 in Mentha citrata.)

    Rose = phenyl ethyl alcohol : citronellol : geraniol from most to least or even in equal portions, this is another nonspecific 'adjust to taste' one.

    Arcadi Boix Camps says 4 isomuscone : 1 ethylene brassylate or 1 : 4 are both somehow stronger than either musk alone.

    David Ruskin's tuberose: 2 Aurantiol : 1 methyl tuberate : 1 gamma-octalactone

    From Askinson's Victorian formulary: 3 patchouli : 1 rose
    Last edited by Septime; 12th April 2019 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Fixed some punctuation to make meaning clearer, and corrected a typo

  13. #13

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by zerlotus View Post


    So far I've tried pavomi suggestion, and modified it by adding rose oxide, alpha ionone and Hedione as I find PEA a little bit too sulfure-like.

    good! and now go on with the classic rose accord ingredients and add traces of eugenol or eugenol-related materials and see where it takes the accord
    when the accord is done to your likings, combine it with the grojsman accord and you'll have a very basic but finished perfume. fun & satisfaction guaranteed.


    btw: there are affordable reprints of the appell book. but many of those formulas are anyways published at http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by zerlotus View Post
    Definetly will try today! And I'll let you know, thank you for your input.

    So far I've tried pavomi suggestion, and modified it by adding rose oxide, alpha ionone and Hedione as I find PEA a little bit too sulfure-like.


    Thank you all!!
    Your welcome! Looking forward to the results.

    The Rose Accord you got going on seems great.

    Alongside what pavomi mentioned,
    beta-ionone, rose oxide, beta-damascone & beta-damascenone were all said to be very important for the rose aroma (Rose oil, Wikipedia).

    beta-ionone & alpha-ionone may be somewhat interchangeable so you pretty much got it going on I guess. The Damascones might be important but I'm pretty sure the use is IFRA limited to like ~0.05% or so, maybe you get a similar aspect from one of the other chemicals your using.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by Septime View Post
    The Grosjman accord is unusual because for once you don't need to be precise. All of the materials are so mild that a bit more or less won't hurt, it will still work. 'Roughly equal portions' is what people usually say. I'd suggest trying it three ways: a) without methyl ionone, b) with it, and c) with methyl ionone but replace the Iso E Super with phenyl ethyl alcohol.

    I shook out my notes file for accords that came with measurements. Note, I haven't personally tried them all.

    9 benzyl salicylate : 2 eugenol is the beginning of the carnation accord in many classic fragrances.

    20 benzoin : 5 labdanum : 1 vanilla is Mandy Aftel's all-botanical amber.

    Philip Kraft's FB page is full of freebie accords and formulae:
    White violet: 30 dihydro-beta-ionone : 10 alpha-ionone : 3 beta-ionone
    More orris-like variation: 10 dihydro-beta-ionone : 1 alpha-ionone : 5 beta-ionone
    Nonspecific light floral: 1 nerol : 1 nerolidol : 1 Hedione
    Ditto: 5 Hedione : 2 linalool
    From one of Kraft's students, honey: 4 Azabre : 1 methyl phenylacetate.

    J. Sparla shared his Creed-type cologne accord: 10 ambroxan : 2 dihydromyrcenol : 1 allyl amyl glycolate : 1 ambergris 3% tincture (if you can afford it!)

    6 linalyl acetate : 5 linalool, or better yet 13 : 12 = the perfumer's preferred grade of lavender. (Note that just about any possible proportion of those two components is found somewhere in nature, e.g. roughly 2 : 1 in bergamot, 4 : 1 in clary sage, 5 : 2 in Mentha citrata.)

    Rose: phenyl ethyl alcohol : citronellol : geraniol from most to least or even in equal portions, this is another nonspecific 'adjust to taste' one.

    Arcadi Bois Camps says 4 isomuscone : 1 ethylene brassylate or 1 : 4 are both somehow stronger than either musk alone.

    David Ruskin's tuberose: 2 Aurantiol : 1 methyl tuberate : 1 gamma-octalactone

    From Askinson's Victorian formulary: 3 patchouli : 1 rose

    What a great selection of simple accords.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    What a great selection of simple accords.
    Why thank you
    I try to be the kind of resource I needed a year ago

  17. #17
    Super Member Faceless void's Avatar
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    great post !
    my simple sugar accord : 100 parts
    ethyl vanillin 10% - 30
    vanillin 10% - 50
    ethyl malton 10% - 15
    heliotropex 15% - 5
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Very simple accords for newbies

    I didn't expect that much input! Thank you all, I'm growing a lot from this, just trying and knowing each individual material.

    Loved Grojsman accord and loved few other trials from your suggestion.

    I came up with a fruity fig accord:

    1% stemone 1,013 45%
    1% ald. c18 0,423 19%
    10% iso e super 0,216 10%
    10% hedione 0,197 9%
    10% coumarin 0,168 7%
    100%habanolide 0,083 4%
    1% ethyl butirate 0,078 3%
    1% cis 3 hexenol 0,047 2%
    10% alpha damasc 0,021 1%
    10% ebanol 0,015 1%

    What do you think?

    Greetings!




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