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  1. #1

    Default Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    I seem to remember at least one user here - his name escapes me - who had an extensive collection of vintage Russian leather fragrances, almost all from brands I had never heard of. I was fascinated to find out that this was actually an entire subcategory of leathers. On old tester bottles of Givenchy Gentleman they sometimes printed a simplified pyramid and I distinctly remember Russian leather in the base. I always thought that GG had an interesting take on leather, very different from the heavier birch tar based leather you started to see towards the end of the 70s. Although Gentleman at the end of the day isn't what I'd call a leather fragrance, I'd be interested to know whether that accord was a faithful representation of Russian leathers available at the time.
    Currently wearing: Deep Forest by Bogner

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    Interesting, I don't know vtg Givenchy Gentleman, so I'm curious as well.

    Older, traditional Cuir de Russie leathers, as you point out, had birch tar (which is the "de Russie" part-supposedly in Russia they used birch tar to tan leather), balanced by tons of flowers. As in Chanel Cuir de Russie and Knize Ten vintage (butcher, but still very floral). I don't think GG was floral.

    cacio

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    Iím at a loss on this one. I have an original release bottle of GG. Not a tester, so no note pyramid on the bottle. The leather in this is very subdued and not reminiscent of what I know of as being Russian leather. In fact, itís so subdued that itís barely perceptible due to the main note... patchouli. It may indeed have a Russian leather accord. However for anyone wishing to experience a nice Russian leather, GG is not the place to look as there are far better options. Curious to see feedback from others though.
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    Aren't those old Russia leathers rich in birch tar? If so, that's not what GG is about.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    Aren't those old Russia leathers rich in birch tar? If so, that's not what GG is about.
    This is my thinking as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting, I don't know vtg Givenchy Gentleman, so I'm curious as well.

    Older, traditional Cuir de Russie leathers, as you point out, had birch tar (which is the "de Russie" part-supposedly in Russia they used birch tar to tan leather), balanced by tons of flowers. As in Chanel Cuir de Russie and Knize Ten vintage (butcher, but still very floral). I don't think GG was floral.

    cacio
    The floral notes in GG are not insignificant to my nose and can be quite "perfumey" on certain days - rose, orris, and faint jasmine. So it sort of fits your description of a Cuir de Russie style leather. What makes Gentleman so damn hard to classify is that, as Diddy pointed out, literally everything plays second fiddle to the patchouli.

    Thanks all for the replies, so far looks like more of a marketing claim from Givenchy than a faithful rendition. I will have to find that old Russian leather thread.
    Currently wearing: Deep Forest by Bogner

  6. #6
    Dependent
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    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    I definitely get birch tar in vintage GG. It's definitely not as big as the patchouli, but it's there enough to ward me off. (I don't like birch tar unless in microdose just to dirty things.)

  7. #7

    Default Re: Russian leather aficionados - how accurate is the "Russian leather" accord in vtg Gentleman?

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    I definitely get birch tar in vintage GG. It's definitely not as big as the patchouli, but it's there enough to ward me off. (I don't like birch tar unless in microdose just to dirty things.)
    I'll have to wear it one day soon and try to focus on the leather note.




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