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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    The paired fragrances also have nothing to do with each other. Danger Femme and Danger Homme are as different as Egoiste and Platinum Egoiste, or Velvet Orchid and Heritage. It's odd. Why not have them paired by more than name?

    If they're up for it, I would send Cook.bot (1) Enslaved Femme, (2) Mischief Femme, (3) Fetish Homme, (4) Vetiver Homme, and (5) Creation-E Homme and PerfumedLady (1) Creation-E Femme, (2) Danger Homme, (3) Danger Femme, (4) Beguiled Femme, and (5) Reckless Femme.
    Last edited by Bavard; 7th May 2019 at 05:53 PM.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    The paired fragrances also have nothing to do with each other. Danger Femme and Danger Homme are as different as Egoiste and Platinum Egoiste, or Velvet Orchid and Heritage. It's odd. Why not have them paired by more than name?
    Xerjoff Homme and Xerjoff Elle would be another example. Homme smells something like Fahrenheit while Elle smells like a body spray found at Bath and Body Works or Victoria's Secret.

    Perhaps you would consider a sampling with Xerjoff?
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  3. #63
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    @ZealotCrusader. Spot on observation on the ‘density’ factor. It’s a construction style popular in the 70s and 80s iirc though Roja seems to have toned it down to cater to current tastes and prevalent climate on fragrancewear.

    Incisive post btw, @Abu. You probably saved me $$$. That’s also the route I’ve taken, with travel sizes. My wardrobe is already extensive - I don’t need 50 ml of anything. I’m with you on Sultanate of Oman. And I’m deliberately avoiding Haute Luxe as I fear the temptation may prove too great for me to resist...




    I read somewhere about Roja ‘calling dibs’ on these evocative/ innuendo-laden names, registering them(?) for his fragrances. I suppose in the old tradition of Lanvin’s My Sin or Schiaparelli Shocking?
    I've smelled 70's and 80's density, and I was more referring to the "note wall" density of vintage Guerlains and Cotys from the 1910's and 1920's moreso than the sharp bitey or musky density of the 70's/80's. It feels like Roja is targeting that kind of kitchen sink Jacques Guerlain or base-heavy Ernest Daltroff feeling
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  4. #64
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    If they're up for it, I would send Cook.bot (1) Enslaved Femme, (2) Mischief Femme, (3) Fetish Homme, (4) Vetiver Homme, and (5) Creation-E Homme and PerfumedLady (1) Creation-E Femme, (2) Danger Homme, (3) Dange Femme, (4) Beguiled Femme, and (5) Reckless Femme.
    I would most gratefully accept your generous offer, but on one condition: that you wouldn't be offended if I in turn choose to pass them on to someone else (possibly Purecaramel).

    Your descriptions have led me to believe that these aren't exactly going to enflame me with enthusiasm -- with the possible exception of Mischief.

    One never knows though, does one?

  5. #65
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    I look forward to reading both your and PL's reviews and possibly Purecaramel.
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  6. #66
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Your descriptions have led me to believe that these aren't exactly going to enflame me with enthusiasm -- with the possible exception of Mischief.

    One never knows though, does one?
    I'm guessing you'll also like Enslaved Femme and Vetiver Homme, at least a little.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    While I feel much the way Cook.bot does after reading your reviews (just goes to show how well we know and trust you!), I am excited as ever to try a house with which I have no experience. And you do have me intrigued about Beguiled! Grateful for the opportunity; thank you, Bavard!

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Thank you Bavard and everyone else who contributed to this awesome thread! Just last night I watched an hour+ of Roja Dove videos on YouTube, finding him equally irritating and fascinating. He has really put as much effort, or more judging from the opinions here, into his branding as he has into his fragrances. He has a handful of personal stories, oftly repeated, that he uses as narrative to draw people into his world of exorbitantly priced luxury fragrance. It’s quite entertaining, for however you’re deriving entertainment from it.

    I’m definitely curious about his perfumes, especially the ones he talks about frequently like Great Britain, Roja Haute Luxe, Aoud, Sweetie Aoud, and Chypre Extraordinnaire. Ooh, and Lakme, the one he just made in collaboration with the Royal Opera House Muscat.

    About the Fetish name: I remember in one video he explained the name for Fetish came from the sacred objects that are worshipped for magical or mystical reasons, and when one wears this fragrance they smell good enough to be worshipped... something like that.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by PeachieOs View Post
    He has really put as much effort, or more judging from the opinions here, into his branding as he has into his fragrances.
    Marketing is a fascinating field. I try to avoid it by doing things like moving to a state with no billboards.

    I thought the Roja Dove women's fragrances were ok, but they smell surprisingly mainstream for the prices. I don't like the men's fragrances as much.They're too driven by modern aroma chemicals that don't click with me.

    Approximate order of preference:

    Thumbs Up
    1. Beguiled Femme
    2. Mischief Femme
    3. Enslaved Femme
    4. Danger Femme
    5. Vetiver Homme

    Neutral
    6. Reckless Femme
    7. Creation-E Femme
    8. Fetish Homme
    9. Danger Homme
    10. Creation-E Homme

  10. #70

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    My group of samples has arrived! Everything in perfect condition; thank you so much, Bavard. These are extremely generous.

    I'll be back with some impressions next week! I'm itching to sniff Beguiled Femme even more, now that it came out your (approx.) #1!

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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    My group of samples has arrived! Everything in perfect condition; thank you so much, Bavard. These are extremely generous.

    I'll be back with some impressions next week! I'm itching to sniff Beguiled Femme even more, now that it came out your (approx.) #1!
    My pleasure! I'm so looking forward to your smelling notes.

    Approximate number one does sound superlative, I agree. There's no way it can possibly live up, I fear. *chuckling*

    Ah, this is fun. I'm equally curious for your notes on Danger Femme.

    The generous sample sizes are courtesy of Osswald, who also shipped quickly.
    Last edited by Bavard; 11th May 2019 at 11:33 AM.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    An interesting observation I happen to share. I noticed it while sampling Great Britain. Not sure how I feel about these subtly synthetic ‘bleeps’.
    I've thought about it, and I don't like them. Once I get a glimpse of the leather glitching out to synthetic woods, it soon becomes the predominant smell. It becomes harder for the leather smell to come back at all.

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Liz B View Post
    The thread reminded me that sampling and decants can be just as fun as a fb.
    What a compliment! I love sampling and have so much fun with it.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Hothamwater View Post
    minus Mischief and Beguiled, which are of course discontinued
    The "of course" prompts me to admit I had no idea these were discontinued.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by PeachieOs View Post
    About the Fetish name: I remember in one video he explained the name for Fetish came from the sacred objects that are worshipped for magical or mystical reasons, and when one wears this fragrance they smell good enough to be worshipped... something like that.
    Goodness gracious. You're a trooper to watch that.

  16. #76

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Sample 3 of 10 - Beguiled Femme. A nice rose and iris, or is it jasmine and violet? This is in the ballpark of something such as 31 Rue Cambon and 1932, I think. There's a heavy dollop of syrup on top. It could almost read as artificial, but I think it's just a strong floral.

    This is more like the first sample, Mischief, than Enslaved. There's something in the Chanel Les Exlusifs mold with Beguiled, but maybe not done quite as well. But close. I could almost give this a neutral, even if it feels competent. Maybe it's Chanel Boy that it's reminding me of.

    PerfumedLady might like this one. I might start a second care package.

    As I give this more time, it's a thumbs up. So yummy. It's like the floral part of Chanel Cuir de Russie. The supporting structure holding this up smells light on fixatives, which I like. I think the perfume fades more quickly, but in exchange smells better and more natural.

    I think Chanel did something similar in the change from the edts to the edps of Les Exclusifs, and in the reformulation of Edition Blanche to edp - they ditched fixatives, or at least noticeable ones, and they're just sacrificing longevity. I think I like it better this way, although I liked the base fixatives Chanel used (yum).

    Nevermind about this smelling natural. I'm getting a load of laundry musks, sort of Frederic Malle style, in the sillage of this. Chanel just went crazy with musks with 1957, musks are the whole thing.
    Reposting Bavard's review because smelling Beguiled now, I can see he made lots of excellent points. And I also think between the two of us, we have this one pretty well nailed down.

    It's a pin-up scent! Feather boa sold separately. Yes, I love this style, as Bavard noted. I definitely see why you were getting Chanel-esque vibes; the orris here has a similar clean-skin-with-just-a-twang-of-salt feel as Chanel's.

    The abstract florals here are great, definitely ylang and rose, probably jasmine and I think the answer to the violet or iris question is "both". I suspect some ionones as well as orris. Up close, the flowers read powdery to me; in the air around me, I get a soapier floral. Overall, it reads as a proper feminine bouquet of the Art Deco period through the 1950s. The florals are always my favorite part of these retro dressing table type scents and no exception with Beguiled. The floral materials used here are just stunning and the bouquet well-executed. Yes, I would wear this for the flowers alone.

    I wouldn't buy Beguiled, however; floral perfection aside, the parts I don't like are deal breakers. I find the citruses in the top sour and the base thin. The sandalwood is of the dry, papery variety, not the rich and creamy sort for which a scent like this begs. I give the base some points back for pepperiness though, which is needed to provide some cheekbones for all this fluffy femininity.

    Overall, I find the quality no better or worse than most other niche houses. There are a great many scents in Beguiled's category, spanning decades, so it is natural that one will be reminded of some of them. For me, the two that keep coming to mind are ELdO's Putain des Palaces and HdP 1889 Moulin Rouge. If I were to compare it to a Chanel, I might think it most like Misia, though I need to sniff my Misia decant again to be sure. I'll do just that while I still have Beguiled on hand. I haven't decided yet if epapsiou is going to get Beguiled, I definitely want to wear it some more! In spite of a few parts of the development that are clunky for my nose, those flowers are addictive.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Reposting Bavard's review because smelling Beguiled now, I can see he made lots of excellent points. And I also think between the two of us, we have this one pretty well nailed down.

    It's a pin-up scent! Feather boa sold separately. Yes, I love this style, as Bavard noted. I definitely see why you were getting Chanel-esque vibes; the orris here has a similar clean-skin-with-just-a-twang-of-salt feel as Chanel's.

    The abstract florals here are great, definitely ylang and rose, probably jasmine and I think the answer to the violet or iris question is "both". I suspect some ionones as well as orris. Up close, the flowers read powdery to me; in the air around me, I get a soapier floral. Overall, it reads as a proper feminine bouquet of the Art Deco period through the 1950s. The florals are always my favorite part of these retro dressing table type scents and no exception with Beguiled. The floral materials used here are just stunning and the bouquet well-executed. Yes, I would wear this for the flowers alone.

    I wouldn't buy Beguiled, however; floral perfection aside, the parts I don't like are deal breakers. I find the citruses in the top sour and the base thin. The sandalwood is of the dry, papery variety, not the rich and creamy sort for which a scent like this begs. I give the base some points back for pepperiness though, which is needed to provide some cheekbones for all this fluffy femininity.

    Overall, I find the quality no better or worse than most other niche houses. There are a great many scents in Beguiled's category, spanning decades, so it is natural that one will be reminded of some of them. For me, the two that keep coming to mind are ELdO's Putain des Palaces and HdP 1889 Moulin Rouge. If I were to compare it to a Chanel, I might think it most like Misia, though I need to sniff my Misia decant again to be sure. I'll do just that while I still have Beguiled on hand. I haven't decided yet if epapsiou is going to get Beguiled, I definitely want to wear it some more! In spite of a few parts of the development that are clunky for my nose, those flowers are addictive.
    Histoires de Parfums 1899 Moulin Rouge is an interesting comparison. I think that is one their best fragrances. I've never worn the ELdO. I've had some great moments wearing Moulin Rouge and I had some with Beguiled.

    I kept cards with each of the fragrances. Pulling Beguiled out now and re-smelling it, I still like it. Nothing mindblowing, but very nice. It has some sweet floral, and a light hint of sharp white floral.

    Your post is helping me understand it, and I'm so glad to have the card. I can identify what you're calling sour citrus, and I think it works for me.

  18. #78

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Oh, I agree about Moulin Rouge, one of their best! Putain de Palaces has an interesting rice powder accord, among many other lovely qualities.

    The cards are such a good idea; kicking myself for not thinking of that during some past sample passes!

    I think I was wrong about sour citrus. Having clearly detected raspberry leaf (thank you, 4160 sample pass) in the base, I bet that's what I was picking up. Raspberry and its leaf often are sour/funky to me. I'll pay more attention next time and see if I can sort it out for sure.

    Your post helped me to know what I think, too! The light treatment of the white florals combined with that peppery patchouli in the base really do recall 31 RC and 1932. Lots of Chaneliness here. After that, it does go in a more synthetic, indistinct direction in the far drydown as you said. Still, a definite like for me!

  19. #79

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    On to the one masculine in my group, Danger Homme. Heritage by Guerlain. That is all.

    In seriousness, I guess I can say a little more, but not much. This reminded me so strongly of Heritage straight away that I do not even need to spray Heritage for comparison. This is pretty much a straight up dupe, unlike Beguiled, which referenced a whole category of scents while adding its own twist on an old idea.

    I love Heritage and therefore love this, too. I think of Heritage as a rarity, sort of a woody floriental for men (or me). It's always hard for me to come up with any scent to compare to Heritage; not many masculine orientals are so floral. JPG was a genius with florals. I have tons of respect for Heritage and also just love the way it smells. Liking Danger as well is simply too easy for me. epapsiou definitely has to smell this one.

    Danger does have some fantastic lavender, must give it that. If my hubs were wearing Danger, I'd snuggle up to him and I'm enjoying it on myself. But I do think the woods read more harshly synthetic here than in Heritage. A Guerlain is such a lovely thing to own and Heritage is accessible; I'd recommend it over Danger every time, if it's between the two. If you just love the style and can afford both, I'd say go for it.

  20. #80
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    There's something in the Heritage/Danger Homme formula that unsettles me. It's a curious reaction, especially knowing almost everyone else likes it.

    I call Fetish a Bel Ami "tribute" and Danger a/an Heritage "clone."

    Someone could get a bunch of vintage Heritage for the price of Danger Homme, so I would have to second the no vote if someone were asking me about buying it.

  21. #81

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Someone could get a bunch of vintage Heritage for the price of Danger Homme, so I would have to second the no vote if someone were asking me about buying it.
    And this is what it comes down to for me as well. Given the harshness of the woods in Danger (they really are kind of itchy and scratchy, could this be the unsettling thing?), I even think modern Heritage is a bit better than Danger. Vintage is a bargain, if you ask me!

  22. #82
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    And this is what it comes down to for me as well. Given the harshness of the woods in Danger (they really are kind of itchy and scratchy, could this be the unsettling thing?), I even think modern Heritage is a bit better than Danger. Vintage is a bargain, if you ask me!
    The itchy/scratchy woods are a problem, and the Roja Dove men's fragrances seem to feature them. That is, of course, unsettling, but I think there's an effect even in original Heritage that may strike me as having gone too far. Heritage was a 1992 release, I believe, and Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree had come out not long before, in 1989. Heritage, to my nose, is sort of an over-the-top niche-smelling fragrance inspired by Pour Monsieur Concentree. Interesting and ambitious, but not quite right for me.

  23. #83

    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Ah, I see! Just not one that works for you. I figure those kind of scents serve their purpose too; they leave our noses, skin and wallets free for something that does work.

  24. #84
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Mischief Femme

    This skipped all the promised citrus top notes on me, and went straight into a wall of jasmine and orange blossom. Big, big white flowers. I think the Dior that Bavard might have been reminded of is Diorissimo, even though that's a wall of muguet, the head-banging attack style is similar. Both the jasmine and the orange blossom are more sweet than indolic. As it wore on, I did get some of the fruit Bavard mentioned (maybe peach), but it didn't seem especially rotten to me. It was getting headachey for me, so I didn't wait for the drydown.

    It's hard for me to judge this style of scent because I don't like loud white florals, but I have to admit it seems very well constructed, with good materials, so I couldn't in fairness give it a negative just because it doesn't suit my taste. Fans of Fracas and Diorissimo might be enchanted with it.

    After my head clears I'll try the Vetiver Homme, which seems a little more promising sniffed from the vial.
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 15th May 2019 at 04:43 PM. Reason: the bad spells

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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Mischief Femme . . . Fans of Fracas and Diorissimo might be enchanted with it.
    Things like Fracas and Diorissimo grow on me. I'm much more into white flowers than synthetic woods. White flowers are loud and interesting, and can have a vintage smell without being in violation of IFRA or EU restrictions.

    I think you'll get on better with Vetiver Homme.

  26. #86
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I think you'll get on better with Vetiver Homme.
    How right you were!

    Vetiver Homme

    Oh, this is quite nice. Opens like a sanded-down version of Guerlain Vetiver, a little more sweet and a lot less sharp and soapy. My general taste in vetivers runs toward the dark, smoky stuff (like MPG's Route du Vetiver), but this is a delectable presentation of a crowd-pleasing vetiver. The vetiver note itself here is soft and grassy, no smoke or leather in sight.

    I especially like the way the citruses are handled. They're creamy, rather than sour or sharp. I had to look up "Litsea cubeba", and it seems to be the lemon-scented leaves of a shrub, used to make an essential oil called "May Chang". I'd like to smell that some time.

    This is a much more complex scent than most vetivers; in the heart there's some light florals (a teasing stroke of jasmine) and galbanum that sort of thickens everything, and the drydown brings warm spices and woods (I really like spices with vetiver), making the base a little more masculine than the rest of it, but generally I find this wearable as a women's scent, too. It has lots more texture than most vetiver fragrances.

    On the whole I enjoy this from top to bottom. But... $6+ per milliliter for the EDP? And I understand there's an even pricier extrait version? I can't help doing the math: I could get 200mls of Chanel's Sycomore for the price of 50mls of this. But you can bet I'll give this one another wearing before I ship the samples away.

    Edit: I had to add a little epilogue here. After 6 hours, when I thought Vetiver Homme had faded away, it suddenly made a huge comeback and started projecting like crazy, for no good reason like an increase in temperature or sweat. The only other perfume that's ever done that on me was Theorema.

    Further edit: It's been 14 hours since I put this on, and I can still clearly smell it on my arm. I didn't even think it was possible for a vetiver scent to last that long. And it still smells like vetiver, not just base notes.
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 16th May 2019 at 04:42 AM. Reason: epilogue

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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    I'm glad there was a winner in your set, just for the joy of getting in a couple (or more) nice wearings. You might like Enslaved, and maybe even Fetish. This is fun!

    Breaking out the cards:

    Danger Homme - The cards are doing a good job of keeping some top notes, I think. They're stored in a plastic holder. It's nifty. This one is interesting on the card, but it flickers between Heritage (70% of the time) and Windex (30% of the time). From the card, it smells challenging.

    Mischief Femme - I still like it the same. It smells perfectly wearable to me.

    Vetiver Homme - On paper, or at least smelling it this time, it's more in the direction of a darker (to me) vetiver such as Dior or Le Labo. I don't really like that style, and the Roja Dove barely goes there, so I like it more than those two. It's one of the better vetiver perfumes I've smelled.

  28. #88
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Breaking out the cards:
    Your card trick is brilliant. I'm going to use it for every future pass I'm in.

  29. #89
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Your card trick is brilliant. I'm going to use it for every future pass I'm in.
    It’s a holder for business cards.

    6C9F1E46-EA1E-418B-8097-91A4559DF9A2.jpg

  30. #90
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    Default Re: Roja Dove Sampling

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Itís a holder for business cards.
    Clever. And could come in handy for massive sniffathons, too, like the upcoming Chicago meetup.




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