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  1. #1

    Exclamation NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Lustre is a new perfume by Hiram Green for women and men and was released in 2019


    Perfumer

    Hiram Green Fragrance Notes

    Bulgarian rose, Citric notes, Iris, Frankincense

    I've been impressed by this perfumer's work. I would like to hear from anyone who has experience with this new scent of what impressions you have of it.
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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  3. #3

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Thanks for this, Zilpha. I’d be interested to hear from anyone who’s been able to sample it, too. I love HG’s work.

    No reviews that I’ve been able to find yet...
    Chypreish”:
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  4. #4

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Wohooo! I've been waiting for Hiram to do a rose. Now excuse me while I'm off ordering a sample...

  5. #5

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Don’t forget to report back!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  6. #6

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Will do. I pre ordered a sample that will ship May 6th, I can't wait!

  7. #7
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    cazaubon's Avatar
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Very much looking forward to this one.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    are citric notes citrus?

    I'm curious about citric notes.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    What a great name!



    Off topic: I just saw that his Hyde won the Art & Olfaction Award several days ago. I *have* to sample that one.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

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    Currently wearing: Bois de Mysore by Mizensir

  10. #10
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Off topic: I just saw that his Hyde won the Art & Olfaction Award several days ago. I *have* to sample that one.
    Birch tar.

    If you're a fan of things like Patchouli 24 by Le Labo, Lonestar Memories by Tauer, Black by CdG, you might like it a lot. It manages, somehow to be quite soft after a bit of a sledgehammer opening, as these things are wont to do.

    I think it's really good but I would wear it infrequently.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  11. #11

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Birch tar.

    If you're a fan of things like Patchouli 24 by Le Labo, Lonestar Memories by Tauer, Black by CdG, you might like it a lot. It manages, somehow to be quite soft after a bit of a sledgehammer opening, as these things are wont to do.

    I think it's really good but I would wear it infrequently.
    Yup, well said. I love all the ones you mentioned as was revolted by Hyde the first couple of times I tried it on paper - I just had to suck it up and test it on myself. The problem for people living in the Bay Area is that it might be too reminiscent of the smoke we had to endure from the fires last summer.

  12. #12

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Quote Originally Posted by HORNS View Post
    Yup, well said. I love all the ones you mentioned as was revolted by Hyde the first couple of times I tried it on paper - I just had to suck it up and test it on myself. The problem for people living in the Bay Area is that it might be too reminiscent of the smoke we had to endure from the fires last summer.
    ooh, I can kind of imagine that people will get that association with Hyde; that smoke is very intense for the first 30 minutes or so. It does soften drastically afterwards though. It's the one Hiram Green I feel I can't wear, even though I admire it for what it is.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Have yet to find a Hiram Green I want a full bottle of. Could Lustre be the one?
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  14. #14

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    I just got my sample and will give you my first impressions:

    It is definitely a rose soliflore, but unlike most rose centric fragrances I've smelled (I've been on a rose bender lately, trying One Rose, Sa Majeste la Rose, La Fille de Berlin, several different Tauer roses, Lipstick Rose, and so on) it smells of wild roses, rather than cultivated roses. So these wild roses.jpg rather than these cultivated roses.jpg.

    I'm very happy about that, because I find the smell of wild roses glorious. They may not look like much, but the smell that wafts of this wild and bushy looking shrubbery is simply divine; a type of rose scent that is, in my opinion, underrepresented in perfumery. It's a fresh, natural rose that is dense and voluptuous without going in the rich, velvety direction.

    The rose note is lifted by a citrus that is not at all juicy, but dry and slightly bitter. It reminds me of one of those hybrid citrus fruits I tried once when visiting Turkey, something between a lemon and grapefruit. I think the dryness is in part attributable to the olibanum, as I detect a touch of tree resin in the bitterness. It gives the scent a tremendous brightness without ending up in the light, refreshing, innocent rose/citrus corner occupied by, let's say Diptique's Eau Rose, or Rosine's Un Zeste de Rose. It's more serious and substantial than that. It's also not at all a soapy or cosmetic rose (no powder puffs or boudoirs in sight), or a dark and heady oriental rose (no patchouli, oud or vanilla in sight either). I find it difficult to place, but perhaps I need to wear it longer.

    So far, I adore the rose note, but I find the dry and bitter citrus a bit distracting. Let's see how it develops...

  15. #15
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Thank you so much yellowtone, I love the smell of wild roses. However, the dry citrus note is worrisome, as it’s not my preference either. Still looking forward to trying it very much.

  16. #16

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Thanks Yellowtone for the thoughtful feedback. Great insight. Looking forward to trying this when I can.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  17. #17

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Sounds awesome, thank you yellowtone! I have been extremely impressed with this house.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Halston 1-12 by Halston

  18. #18
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    I wonder when they will start offering it at Luckyscent

  19. #19

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    ^Twisted Lily has it now.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Halston 1-12 by Halston

  20. #20
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    They also throw in the discovery set if you buy a full bottle.


    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  21. #21

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    I recently got my sample too, and my first impression is very similar to yellowtone's evoctive, eloquent review: "definitely a rose soliflore", "fresh, natural rose that is dense and voluptuous without going in the rich, velvety direction", and also with a "tremendous brightness".

    While the floral rosy sweetness is present throughout Lustre's development, the herbal, even slightly spicy, citronella-like aspect of the rose is more prominent to my nose in the opening, as well as a mouthwatering lemony tartness. I too find the citrusy component has a dry, powdery texture, evoking lemon candy and grapefruit at different times, which I find is not uncommon among natural perfumes with prominent citrus notes.

    As the lemony tartness and herbal aspect of rose mellow with time and become peripheral, decorative notes, the honeyed floral sweetness of rose takes over from now on. Smelt from afar, it does come pretty close to the scent of some pink damask roses that I once smelt. But when smelt in proximity to the skin, the scent is actually quite intense, especially its honeyed tonality, sometimes even veering into being jammy during the first 2 or 3 hours. I personally can't stand the ubiquitous raspberry-rose jam accord in many rose-oud or woody rose perfumes, which fortunately is not the case here. In fact, it reminds me of a Rose de Mai jam that I once tried, which is like the redolence of these fragrant roses in a concentrated form. This honeyed sweetness will gradually tone down with time, and the fragrance will become a velvety rose skin scent in the dry down. I don't particularly detect olibanum if I don't look for it, but I do get glimpses of its ethereal herbal and citrusy nuances complementing those of rose.

    The closest rose perfumes that I can think of are Diptyque Essence Insensée 2016 Rose de Mai and the opening phase of Lancôme Parfait de Rôses, as both evoking the honeyed Rose de Mai jam association to me like Lustre does. But Lustre's texture is obviously different from these two, having this charmingly rough texture like many natural perfumes do. It also reminds me of Slowdive, not smell-wise of course, but in terms of their overall style and vision to represent their respective theme: both are solinote perfumes (rose for Lustre and honey for Slowdive) focusing on the bright sweetness of their subjects, eliciting the kind of optimistic, joie de vivre spirit, while omitting their respective dark, troubling facets (such as the dark woody fruity facets of rose and the animalic, even "urine"-like aspect of honey).
    Currently wearing: Club Design by The Zoo

  22. #22

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    ^Awesome review. I’m not exactly a rose connoisseur, but a tart, fresh, pure, non-jammy rose sounds attractive.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Halston 1-12 by Halston

  23. #23
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    I received my bottle that I ordered from Holland.

    It is a rose soliflore in the way that Slow Dive is a honey (or beeswax) soliflore. It’s not really one. But it seems like it is. That is the magic signature of Hiram Green. It’s one note but really dimensionalized and brought through various facets that each seem different.

    This one starts a little citrusy and then settles down into a really cool Rose rose rose no mistaking it rose. Which I love. Exactly how I thought it would smell like.

  24. #24

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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Sample on the way. I enjoy this House quite a bit, and I'm a rose lover - can't wait.

  25. #25

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Please let us know your thoughts when it arrives.

    I had a sample on the way from Twisted Lily along with a full bottle order, but the bottle was oversold with no restock date, so I ended up cancelling. Second or third time it’s happened to me recently. Oh well, there’s always next time...!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  26. #26
    Basenotes Member alan1's Avatar
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    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Quote Originally Posted by Zilpha View Post
    Lustre is a new perfume by Hiram Green for women and men and was released in 2019


    Perfumer

    Hiram Green Fragrance Notes

    Bulgarian rose, Citric notes, Iris, Frankincense

    I've been impressed by this perfumer's work. I would like to hear from anyone who has experience with this new scent of what impressions you have of it.
    I met Hiram, and smelled Lustre, at Esxence — it’s a really bright juicy rose. Like with a morning dew.

  27. #27

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Wearing my sample for the first time today.

    As others have mentioned, there’s a brightness to it that sets it apart from other Rose soliflores. There’s a distinct Bulgarian damascene profile to it, and it’s unquestionably a Rose absolute or Otto of high quality. High citronellol content to my nose, as I think StellaDiverFlynn noticed also. Too much for me without something more to balance it. The citronellol leans sharp and a little bitter on my skin, and is likely responsible for the tart/dry citric/herbal element on others. It sounds like this is much more successful on others. I’m struggling to get past the mosquito repellent association which high citronellol rose varietals can produce on my skin. Hoping this will reduce a little over time, but I suspect this particular rose might not agree with me as well as others.

    Lustre is notable for its total absence of (noticeably) supporting players, in the opening phases at least; it’s all about the rose. HG’s skill is of course in blending all the supporting elements seamlessly and with an infinitely light touch. There’s complexity in the resulting ‘simplicity’. I love this ability, and it’s a signature all by itself. For me (for my preferences and on my skin), Lustre needs a little more to balance the bitter rose. I can appreciate it’s quality and construction, but its challenging for me in the opening.

    I can see it gaining spiciness and depth as it dries down. It’s moving into a musty, musky, territory that I like better, but am finding quite puzzling at present. I’d swear I’m smelling costus, but I don’t know if that’s a phantom effect, or an overlay from something else? Hm. Interesting.

    I’ll give it more time, but my initial impression is that this is probably not for me. I’ve said that before only to have something really grow on me though, so we’ll see!
    Last edited by Lellabelle; 13th June 2019 at 05:26 PM.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  28. #28

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Wearing my sample for the first time today.

    As others have mentioned, there’s a brightness to it that sets it apart from other Rose soliflores. There’s a distinct Bulgarian damascene profile to it, and it’s unquestionably a Rose absolute or Otto of high quality. High citronellol content to my nose, as I think StellaDiverFlynn noticed also. Too much for me without something more to balance it. The citronellol leans sharp and a little bitter on my skin, and is likely responsible for the tart/dry citric/herbal element on others. It sounds like this is much more successful on others. I’m struggling to get past the mosquito repellent association which high citronellol rose varietals can produce on my skin. Hoping this will reduce a little over time, but I suspect this particular rose might not agree with me as well as others.

    Lustre is notable for its total absence of (noticeably) supporting players, in the opening phases at least; it’s all about the rose. HG’s skill is of course in blending all the supporting elements seamlessly and with an infinitely light touch. There’s complexity in the resulting ‘simplicity’. I love this ability, and it’s a signature all by itself. For me (for my preferences and on my skin), Lustre needs a little more to balance the bitter rose. I can appreciate it’s quality and construction, but its challenging for me in the opening.

    I can see it gaining spiciness and depth as it dries down. It’s moving into a musty, musky, territory that I like better, but am finding quite puzzling at present. I’d swear I’m smelling costus, but I don’t know if that’s a phantom effect, or an overlay from something else? Hm. Interesting.

    I’ll give it more time, but my initial impression is that this is probably not for me. I’ve said that before only to have something really grow on me though, so we’ll see!
    Thank you for this lovely review! I can see why some might struggle with the "mosquito repellent" association. I'm fortunately not bothered by its dry citric/herbal aspect, but it's indeed fairly present in the opening. And I definitely agree with you about its almost deceptive simplicity resulting from harmonious blending and balance of its complexity. While I enjoyed Lustre right from the start, I thought of it slightly lacking in depth. But after wearing it for a few more times, I've come to realise its skillful blending and it's grown much on me.
    Currently wearing: Club Design by The Zoo

  29. #29

    Default Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    HG perfumes do have a tendency to give you something new with each subsequent wearing. I’ve said this before, with Dilettante, but it applies to all of them. I’m a deep admirer of his work and his immense skill as a perfumer.

    Lustre reminds me somewhat of the rose in Papillon’s Tobacco Rose, obviously without the tobacco. Lustre is cleaner, fresher and brighter, but there are similar qualities to the rose used that I think will appeal to anyone who enjoyed TR.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”




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