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  1. #1

    Default Formula for Criticism

    Hello everyone, here is a formula I've been working on for a little while. The idea was to compose some kind of fougère, but with a twist in the notes, with rhubarb, strawberry and vetiver being the most prominent ones. While this formula does work as is, it needs some work to be even better. I have a few ideas already but I figured I might as well see what you think about it.


    Styrallyl acetate 50
    Vertenex 100
    Vetival 10
    Floropal 35
    Cyclamen aldehyde 5
    Hedione HC 100
    Rhubofix 5
    Amyl salicylate 100
    Iso e super 100
    Ethylene brassilate 50
    Damascenone total @10% 10
    Strawberry glycidate 1 30
    Isoambretollide 10
    Scentenal 20
    Zenolide 130
    Vetiveryl acetate 20
    Ethylmaltol @10% 5
    Aldehyde C12 @10% 5
    Vertofix Coeur 50
    Vetiver Haiti EO 20
    Evernyl @10% 100
    Sweet basil leaf oil Egypt 10
    Bergamote EO 30



    The formula is sorted by substantivity, except the last 2 materials. Total is 1000.

    Any advice?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    EDIT just saw EM is at 10%. So at 0.05% it's probably not too strong if you want that sweetness.

    To me, styrallyl acetate & rhubofix (acidic citrus rhubarb), cyclamen aldehyde (green floral), and evernyl (not as much as the others) are high. Also, in my experience, Vertenex at levels over 5% can start to stick out and cheapen the fragrance or smell too wood chip like. Maybe cut those in half and see what your blend smells like, unless you like those intensities. The acidic/green/mossy elements are probably helping balance the intense sweetness coming from the EM, but may be stifling the vetiver. Replace the void with Iso E super since it's your main builder w least odor impact, or if you want more wood/cedar, increase the Vertofix.

    Iso-ambrettolide is very powerful and expensive, you may be able to reduce it as well and still have the same effect. In Dior Homme Intense, it is at 0.1% along with 0.05% natural iso-ambrettolide from ambrette seed abs (Galaxolide @~5% is the other musk used). Up to you though!

    In the end, it's up to you. What do you like about it so far? What do you dislike? Increase/Decrease accordingly. If you don't know how to identify what you dislike, then you need to study your materials individually more. I try to do that before adding new materials to a blend.


  3. #3

    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    Did you build with a purpose in mind for everything? I am looking at ald c-12 , diluted, and wondering is it a helper for the strawberry or rhubarb.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    Quote Originally Posted by Thea in Fl View Post
    Did you build with a purpose in mind for everything? I am looking at ald c-12 , diluted, and wondering is it a helper for the strawberry or rhubarb.
    C-12 Lauric may not a bad choice...
    very green and bright at low doses.
    C-12 MNA on the other hand... probably not.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    One very simple, simple idea could be this.

    Construct a classic fougere accord with powerful, thick naturals;

    tonka bean
    lavender absolute
    oakmoss
    bergamot oil

    And add this high quality, complex, thick natural fougere accord....
    Slowly, slowly into your existing accord to give it complexity.
    Just ONE way to skin a cat.


    Modern synthetic materials definitely make a perfume diffusive,
    But they sometimes lack the complexity and depth of natural materials.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    The following, a simple vetiver base.

    Galaxolide 8
    Timberslik 3
    Vetiver 3
    Coumarin .5

    Play around with the proportions.
    Last edited by mattmeleg; 7th June 2019 at 06:11 AM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    C-12 Lauric may not a bad choice...
    very green and bright at low doses.
    C-12 MNA on the other hand... probably not.
    I see it now... plus I was thinking of peach aldehyde which did not help.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    If I were you I'd try to blend around rhubarb and vetiver first:

    Styrallyl acetate
    Floropal
    Vetiveryl acetate
    Vetiver Haiti EO
    Vetival
    Evernyl
    Rhubofix.

    With these above making 15% of your formula you could try using traces of powerful galbanum/pineapple molecules like Pharaone or Spirogalbanone. Which makes even more sense if you include Scentenal and cyclamen aldehyde. Also Timbersilk might work better than IES.

    Then I'd work a bit more on the strawberry aspect. Your formula contains:

    Ethylene brassylate
    Zenolide
    Strawberry glycidate 1
    Damascenone total
    Ethyl maltol

    which could be improved using lactones, fructone, DMBCB, perhaps methyl cinnamate and something green, like Triplal. Also, strawberry furanone might harmonise with rhubarb and vetiver so I'd give it a go.

    I like the basil oil in this formula and would probably try to overdose it. For even more twist you could consider methyl salicylate.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    Thanks everyone for the replies, this helps a lot !

    @runstiles : I will definitely try and divide the materials you mentioned. As for goal, I'm trying to get to more freshness than currently, so I'm considering changing the strawberry aspect, with fraistone for example (more herbal/anisic/apple than glycinate which is a bit too jammy)

    @Thea : Yeah, C12 is not C18 xD. C12 is here to add a little sparkle on top, which it does very well.

    @matt : These advice don't seem very relevant IMO and would lead to a totally different feel which is not what I'm trying to do.

    @xii : I was indeed thinking about using some galbanum high impact material for top. I was also thinking about trace Hivernal NEO and/or Hydroxycitronnellal for freshness, do you think it could work?
    Also, yes, the strawberry aspect needs some work, it works as is (I've tried it on various people who like it which is always good) but it's not natural enough on the strawberry facets yet. Furaneol is on its way, hope the border patrols won't seize it

  10. #10

    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    You could definitely add Hydroxycitronellal, it will add body and light fresh floral aspects to the heart. You could also add some Hedione (not HC) to increase freshness, maybe do a 1:1 Hedione : Hedione HC and see if that helps.

    Great advice from everyone.


  11. #11
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    Default Re: Formula for Criticism

    Since it seems you wish to add freshness, I would look at Triplal, Stemone, a little bit of cassis base, or trace of buchu eo.
    And for the Vetiver, you could add freshness of methyl pamplemiousse, and paradisamide




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