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  1. #1

    Cool Dilution Weight by weight or weight by volume ?

    Hi all.
    I am a french apprentice perfumer and i have a problem with dilutions.

    When i mix my aromachemicals and test formulas, my dilution is 10 % weight by weight with 95 ethanol, 1 gr aromachemical for 9 g ethanol 95. But i find the odor level is poor, less than commercial EDT. I've read in appel book : for EDT it's 10 % with Ethanol 80 , weight by volume,
    for exemple 1 g of mix aromachemicals in 10 mL "ethanol 80 + aromachemical" volume. But it's not really the same thing. In this case, concentration weight by weight is higher than 10 %. So i don't know how to make a real good EDT or EDP with a high level of odor.
    Can someone help me ?. How do you do ?
    For testing, can i work with Eth80 or Eth95 ? And what kind of dilution ? weight by weight or weight by volume ? Is there another solvant in the mix , making the odor level higher ?
    Thanks for your answer and sorry for my poor english ...

    Nicolas

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Dilution Weight by weight or weight by volume ?

    Hi Nicholas,
    I answered this in your email to me just now... I will also answer the same text here, for other people to read, later, and learn from:

    I would use only 95 alcohol...


    I think a 10% solution is really just for learning to smell your materials, to test smell them, make your observations, etcetera. It is too low % for blending to make your perfumes, it will not be strong enough.


    *IF* you choose to dilute your materials because the cost is high, and you need to conserve, then you can create your blending dilutions at 20%, and that would be wear ready as a %, for the most part.
    I must tell you that as a rule, with exceptions, of course, I do not dilute my materials, to make my trial blends.
    Honestly, if I were to make 20% dilutions of all my materials, then instantly I would have to buy twice as many bottles as I have on the shelves, but also I would have the need of the space to put them on the shelves... my collection of raw materials is quite large, and duplicating its size would not be practical.


    I do dilute sticky and thick materials, for ease of blending, I dilute unusually strong materials down to a working intensity, and I dilute several absolutes due to both strength and stickiness/thickness.


    But as the rule. I blend my perfumes, undiluted, so that I can decide the perfume dilution ratio later, and also much easier.


    Powdered and crystalline materials, most often just get placed directly into the concentrate without dilution. They almost always easily dissolve into the concentrate, over a few minutes to a few hours/overnight. If I am in a little hurry, I might put a little heat to the blend to help them go into solution.


    I always use weight, and never volume...

  3. #3
    Basenotes Member Ivor Joedy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dilution Weight by weight or weight by volume ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kouros91 View Post
    weight by weight or weight by volume ?
    It may be that this helps you.

    I dilute almost all of my materials to 10% (per weight) for development of accords and perfumes. Then I make the final perfumes of ca. 20% (per volume) from undiluted materials.


    A. For the diluted material it does not matter, that using 10% by weight is less intensive as 10% by volume:

    Pure ethanol: 0.7893[g/ml]
    H₂O: 1.0000[g/ml]
    -> Alcohol-96: (96*0.7893 + 4*1)/100 = 0.798[g/ml]
    Jasminum Grandiflorum var. Moroccan: 0.910 - 0.980 = mid- 0.945[g/ml]

    10% dilution per weight:

    Jasminum: 10[g] : 0.945[g/ml] = 10.58[ml]
    Ethanol-96: 90[g] : 0.798[g/ml] = 112.78[ml]

    Total: 123.36[ml]
    10.58 : 1.23 = 8.6 %

    => So in the case of jasmine 10% dilution per weight equals ca. 8.6% per volume. This is sufficient for development.


    B. But for creating final perfumes, the difference between weight and volume matters.
    Here is a similar calculation for a draft chypre:

    - Citrus Aurantium ssp. Bergamia
    - Citrus Medica Limonum
    - Juniperus Communis

    - Abies Sibirica (Ledeb.)

    - Salvia Sclarea, EO + Abs, France
    - Rosa Damascena var. Bulgaria
    - Jasminum Grandiflorum, Egypt

    - Cedrus Atlantica, France

    - Santalum Album, Ceylon (aged 16Y)
    - Pogostem Cablin, old, France
    - Evernia Prunastri, South EU, non-IFRA

    Adding all the spec. gravities it summed up to 0.92 g/ml (of course the amount of each essence, which I have not listed here, goes into the calculation).


    Suppose, you create a 20% perfume (per weight) using a scale:

    20[g] : 0.92 [g/ml] = 21.74[ml]
    80[g] : 0.798[g/ml] = 100.25[ml]
    Total: 121.99 ml

    21.74 : 1.22 = 17.82

    It means, you end up with a perfume of only 17.82% per volume.

    For making this chypre of 20% per volume using a scale:

    20[ml] * 0.92 [g/ml] = 18.4[g]
    80[ml] * 0.798[g/ml] = 63.84[g]
    Total: 82.24 g

    18.4[g] : 0.82[g] = 22.38 %

    => So if you want to have a natural perfume of ca. 20% per volume, using a scale you have to make it of about 23 % per weight.
    Last edited by Ivor Joedy; 15th June 2019 at 12:28 PM.




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