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  1. #1
    Super Member junior_surgeon's Avatar
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    Default A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    I love coniferous fragrances and made a guide about them on Reddit a little while back. Posted this some time ago in the coneheads group, but here it is again for anyone curious to sample the genre. I'm always looking to expand it though, suggestions and feedback welcome!


    https://old.reddit.com/r/fragrance/c...ces_version_2/

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    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by junior_surgeon View Post
    I love coniferous fragrances and made a guide about them on Reddit a little while back. Posted this some time ago in the coneheads group, but here it is again for anyone curious to sample the genre. I'm always looking to expand it though, suggestions and feedback welcome!


    https://old.reddit.com/r/fragrance/c...ces_version_2/
    Very thorough and a good read. Hwyl smells like a Japanese forest, while Hinoki has a steam note and is meant to me inspired by Japanese hot springs with hinoki tubs. Or maybe Hwyl smells like the dry forest and Hinoki the same forest after a solid soaking with rain. Sorry to hear you don’t get great longevity from Sugi and Hinoki. They’re both pretty solid performers for me, and very evocative of the respective plants in their Japanese uses.
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
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  3. #3
    Super Member junior_surgeon's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    Very thorough and a good read. Hwyl smells like a Japanese forest, while Hinoki has a steam note and is meant to me inspired by Japanese hot springs with hinoki tubs. Or maybe Hwyl smells like the dry forest and Hinoki the same forest after a solid soaking with rain. Sorry to hear you don’t get great longevity from Sugi and Hinoki. They’re both pretty solid performers for me, and very evocative of the respective plants in their Japanese uses.
    Thanks! Since writing this I have actually changed my mind about Hinoki (having worn it quite a bit this spring), it does pretty well in the performance department. Sugi is still unfulfilled desire to me, because I really do love that crisp juniper note and I can't detect it after an hour.

  4. #4

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Nice list!

    I'd add Granville / Dior and Fou d'Absinthe / L'Artisan Parfumeurs.
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
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    Basenotes Junkie ClockworkAlice's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Thank you for this huge work, it was a very interesting read - and a lot of things to try in the future! I do enjoy the calming scent of evergreen forests and it would be a pleasure to find and try more fragrances with this scent, and guides like this help a lot.
    I somehow get the impression that coniferous notes aren't very popular in female-marketed fragrances, am I right?

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Awesome takes on these scents! Made me update my conifers-to-test list.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Coniferous Fragrances


    Fragrance Description Rating New entry since last guide?
    Aesop - Hwyl Beautiful hinoki forest; a very meditative and calming fragrance. A little biting, a bit astringent, and absolutely lovely. I get notes of juniper, hinoki, fresh pepper and traces of smoky vetiver. The brand also lists fresh thyme, frankincense and moss. Bears close resemblance to Hinoki by Comme des Garcons, and lasts around four hours on my skin. 8/10 new
    Alkemia - Falling Stars at Winter Solstice A quiet snow-covered road through the forest on a clear night. Falling Stars at Winter Solstice is a beautiful soft Christmas pine and myrrh with a touch of smoke. It's a bit on the feminine side, but anyone could pull this off. Being oil-based, the projection and longevity aren't fantastic, but fortunately it is not expensive. There are a handful of other coniferous Alkemia scents that are great, this one is my favorite. 7/10
    Alkemia - Mesnee d'Hellequin A deep forest blend with a raw edge, this is not the Christmas kind of fir. Mesnee is a potent blend of balsam fir, oakmoss and fungi. When you hear oakmoss it usually brings to mind the 80's powerhouses of pre-IFRA days, but this is not that kind of oakmoss, rather a quieter inflective moss. Also available only as an oil. 7/10 new
    Alkemia - Woods on a Snowy Evening "The chilly beauty of New England in the winter", this is a very camphorous pine. Other notes from the brand. include "powder snow", juniper berries, hemlock pine, white needle balsam pine, flat cedar, camphorous evergreens, and icy aquatic elements. Longevity is on par with the other two listed alkemia oils. 7/10 new
    Annick Goutal - Nuit Etoilee A cool fall night, not too cold and with the lingering mint freshness on a fleeting summer breeze. Almost more minty than pine, Nuit Etoilee is a calm, beautiful meditative scent. The citrus and mint wane in the first half hour, giving way to a soft pine and resin. Also Feminine leaning. Longevity is decent, but it doesn't really project much after 2 hours or so. 6/10
    Annick Goutal - Encens Flamboyant Smoky frankincense and fir(the notes listed on fragrantica are not right, frankincense is the star here). This is a harsh fragrance devoid of any kind of sweetness, a bleak alien landscape. Has a bit of a medicinal vibe to it. 3/10 new
    Apoteker Tepe - The Holy Mountain A transcendental hike to a remote Himalayan Monastery. The Holy Mountain features balsam fir, incense, labdanum, and guaiac wood. This one is very dry and medicinal, and while incense is listed as a note it comes across as more of a peat woodsmoke. The labdanum makes this one vaguely remind me of L'air du Desert Marocain in the drydown. Longevity and projection are decent, this one will project for around 4 hours on my skin. 9/10
    Areej Le Dore - Russian Musk Musk is the key word here. Areej le Dore prides themselves on using authentic legally-sourced deer musk in this blend and it is certainly the most full-bodied musk I've smelled. Other listed notes are lemon, oakmoss, galbanum, and Thailand oud. In a way, it shares some similarity to Dasein's Winter Nights, both featuring a heavy dose of musk. The pine is subdued, most evident in the early stages and slowly fading out. Russian Musk has something of a vintage vibe to it. It is an extrait and behaves as such lasting all day. 7/10 new
    Boadicea the Victorious - Green Sapphire A mountain lake in the late summer. Musky pine and raspberries, there may also be a bit of oud as well. It's a heavy scent, fairly sweet and long-lasting. Pine and sandalwood are especially present in the later hours. 8/10 new
    Bottega Veneta - Pour Homme A pine and leather blend modeled after some of the old powerhouse scents like Tsar and Quorum, though lacking the performance. The opening is harsh and a bit synthetic, but in the drydown the Canadian fir and Juniper become dominant and it's botanical and pleasant. Around 2 hours of projection, 4 hours of longevity. I like this one better than the extreme version, still not my favorite. 4/10
    Caron - Yatagan Animalic, oakmossy pine. It was released in the late seventies, though I feel it manages to maintain a modern vibe. Very masculine. This is a weird one to me, and I do like it, but the oakmoss can be a bit much. Lasts much of the day. 5/10
    Comme des Garçons - Hinoki I'd like to think that this is how a Japanese forest might smell. Hinoki is a green camphorous yet medicinal kind of pine. I'm not familiar with the smell of Hinoki wood itself, but the fragrances is reminiscent of a wooden sauna. Hinoki is beautiful, but it leaves much to be desired in terms of performance. Though recently I've begun to suspect that it lasts longer than I thought, I have gotten comments about it 6 hours after applying lightly. 7.5/10
    Comme des Garçons - Sugi Photo-realistic juniper, sharply green and intense, like the smell of good gin. The pine and pepper help to round it out. It's a wonderful smell for a few minutes but is almost completely gone within an hour. 6/10
    Comme des Garçons - Series 3 Incense: Zagorsk The smell of Russian monasteries placed in endless snowy Russian planes, the odor of light birch and dark pine tree woods.The main notes of Zagorsk are frankincense, pine, pimento, violet, cedar, iris, Hinoki and birch. This is a light scent, a very clean pine and incense. It was inspired by Orthodox Christianity and I think the incense is a good representation of churchy incense, though I'm not sure how the conifers come into play with that theme. Lasts most of the day, projection is barely above the skin. 7/10
    Dasein - Winter A deeply drifted mountain pass at the edge of the treeline after the passing of a light snow flurry. Winter is a blend of blue spruce, forest pine, cardamom and lavender. It maybe just that my nose is being conditioned by the name of fragrance, but this one really comes across as a chilly-smelling fragrance. It's almost gourmand-like in it's sweetness, the lavender being quite different from other lavender that I've come across in fragrance, and the spruce providing a deepness. Longevity for 5 or 6 hours, and decent projection. 9/10
    Dasein - Winter Nights The scent of sitting around a campfire in the mountains during the heart of winter. Heavy, natural, cozy, beautiful. Similar to Winter, but now the pine has been burned and replaced by a very musky smoke. Winter Nights is an appropriate name because it lasts for nights on end, and if you spray this black elixir on your clothes the scent may not come out. 9.5/10
    Demeter - Christmas Tree A nice little ephemeral holiday fir scent with a bit of sweetness. I like to liberally apply the splash-on bottle, and it would make a really nice room spray. 5/10 new
    DS & Durga - Amber Teutonic "Mahler’s hut, perched high above the valley of Alpine fir, horn echoes in the primeval forest. A Nibelungian hoard of precious emerald ambers". The notes from the website are alpine cedar, cardamom, green madarin, geranium, templin cone, Austrian pine, opoponax, and musk. Because amber wasn't listed in the notes I had assumed it wouldn't be prominent, but this is very much an amber fragrance. I get warm amber with a bit of musky fir needles, cones, and cedar. If I sniff closely I pick up a bit of floral note that I'm assuming is the geranium. Amber is often a base note, but in Amber Teutonic it really hits you at first spray and fades out slowly, this fragrance is most coniferous in the drydown. It shares a slight similarity to Hiram Green's Arbolé Arbolé, possibly owing to the common cedar note. 5.5/10 new
    DS & Durga - El Cosmico An ethereal transportive scent, a forest of stunted pinyon pines giving way to red canyon walls and sage brush desert. El Cosmico is a very dry creosote, khella and pine scent, just extremely different than anything else I've smelled. It's simultaneously dry, and fairly sweet as well. Lasts most of the day and projects a fair amount of that time. 8/10
    DS & Durga - Freetrapper Minimalistic mountain scent; a natural smelling citrus and pine. There is additionally a kind of underlying resin accord that can be smelled in many DS&D perfumes. Listed notes are cedar, pine, wild bergamot and snakeroot. Lasts half a day or so. 6/10 new
    Etat Libre d'Orange - Eloge du Traitre Aromatic fougere in the style of older fragrances, it reminds me of a slightly sweeter and fresher Yatagan. Bay leaves, moss and pine dominate this scent, has a very earthy vibe to it. Fairly masculine. lasts all day on my skin. 5/10 new
    Euphorium Brooklyn - Wald The opening is a fantastic explosion of soil, smoke, resin, fir and fungi, like laying on the forest floor after a light rain. As much as I love the opening however, it settles down into a musky vetiver and soil, which I find to be less interesting. It's opening is fairly similar to Olympic Orchid's Olympic Rainforest, which I would probably choose based on the price difference. Wald lasts all day on my skin, though the projection is fairly soft, a foot or two at most. 7/10
    Gallagher - Evergreen Dream Opens with a bitter and zesty citrus, settles down into a kind of traditional fougere. Notes are galbanum, lime, oakmoss, pine, tonka, patchouli, and musk. Not my favorite pine note. 4/10 new
    Guerlain - Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice Hot cider and fresh Christmas tree. Winter Delice contains notes of fir, pine, resin, opoponax, and vanille. It stays sweet throughout without quite being a gourmand, and gets sweeter in the drydown with the fir fading out. There is a bit of an alcohol sort of bite to the beginning but it thankfully burns off. The longevity is around 4 hours, and the projection is soft. 5/10
    Guerlain - Baiser de Russie A creamy carmel, sweet cranberry and pine blend, a very festive fragance. I'm not often a fan of bergamot but it's very subdued here.The notes from Guerlain are bergamot, plum, pine needle, absinthe, cranberry,caramel, tonka bean, & vanilla. Listed as a women's perfume, but could work for anyone. 7.5/10 new
    Hendley - Fume Camping in a bottle, a smoky fir, with fragrant pine cones. Fume is the most similar fragrance to Slumberhouse's Norne that I've smelled, though it is much more focused on smoke, and a bit less heavy. Sits fairly close to the skin, lasts all day. 8.5/10
    Heretic Parfums - Blood Cedar Fresh cut pine and turpentine. Extremely sharp and almost bitter at first spray, but it has a lovely balsam drydown with a bit of incense. Despite the picture on fragrantica, the liquid is a deep red. Smells very natural and lasts a long time. 7/10 new
    House of Matriarch - Future's Past The most realistic iteration of a fir tree out of any fragrance I've tried. When you want to smell the needles, the damp earth around the tree, and the green undergrowth growing up around the roots, this is the one. Future's Past is almost out the realm of being a perfume and wanders into the territory of being something of a "smellscape"; I'm in love with it. Notes are simply wood resin, larch and balsam fir. My only complaint is that of longevity, it's mostly gone after 2 or 3 hours. House of Matriarch emphasizes natural perfumery, and I suppose this is a trade-off. 9/10 new
    House of Matriarch - Sacre Noir The realistic fir accord from Future's Past with visions of dancing of dancing sugar plums. While pine is prominent to my nose, there are some swirling eddies of sweet plum and a touch of florals, incense and resin. Just a beautiful dark holiday fragrance. Leans a little feminine but don't let that scare you away from trying this quintessential Christmas scent. 8.5/10 new
    House of Matriarch - Sex Magic Mountain cabin bondage, or something. Leather, pine and cedar are present in equal doses throughout the life of the perfume, with a faint amount of moss and oud. Almost has a varnish-like quality to it, or maybe a hint of something animalic. Not complaints though, this is quite a unique fragrance. Longevity is respectable, better than others that I've tried from House of Matriarch. 8/10 new
    Imaginary Authors - Cape Heartache An old-growth forest, that for some reason I've brought the strawberry lip balm of my childhood into? The fragrance features fir, pine, hemlock, vanilla, and strawberry notes. I don't love the strawberry in this one, but after it fades in the opening, the pine-heavy drydown is fantastic. Lasts most of the day and projects most of it. 7/10
    Ineke - Idyllwild A sunny mountain clearing complete with rhubarb, wildflowers and a gurgling stream. Idyllwild contains pine, but it's not really a major player, I just think this is a lovely fragrance. Unfortunately it becomes a skin scent almost immediately. 6.5/10
    January Scent Project - Eiderantler Spring lavender and balsam fir. Eiderantler is described by the brand as an aromatic fougere which I guess is accurate, but it has a very different kind of lavender than I have come to expect from fougeres. When first applied there is a kind of mettallic facet to the scent, but it settles down fairly quickly and a pleasant hay note surfaces. Very reminiscent of spring. 6/10 new
    John Varvatos - Vintage A nice pine & tobacco fragrance, there's also a bit of pepper and sourness from rhubarb. It comes across as a little synthetic and doesn't last for more than a few hours, but it's a great budget choice. Getting a bit off-topic with this, but it was the fragrance that piqued my interest in conifers and got me looking into niche in the first place. 6/10 new
    La Curie - Incendo Smoke, smoke, smoke, and a trace amount of pine. Decent if you're into smoky fragrances, which I am, but this is even a little much. 4/10 new
    l'Artisan Perfumeur - Fou d'Asinthe Despite the name there is only a faint similarity to absinthe, both having anise-like aromas. The opening has an odd sweet creamyness to it, but the drydown is pleasant with fir, ginger, anise and nutmeg. Other listed notes are blackcurrant, wormwood(which I admit I'm not familiar with the smell of), incense, angelica, clove, and pepper. A bit masculine. Longevity is not incredible, a couple hours at most. 6.5/10 new
    Lvnea - Ghost Pine "A fall day rife with wet pine needles, moss, with a kind of medicinal herbal underbite. One of my favorite rainy-day scents. The notes from the website are crisp pine needles, crushed foliage, damp moss patches, and ancient woods. While I'm not as big of a fan of oil-based scents, I prefer the Ghost Pine oil over the edp, as the edp seems to fall apart a little bit in the drydown. 8/10 new
    Maison Margiela - Soul of the Forest Pine and a little blackcurrant & lemon, the pine comes across as somewhat synthetic, though it's still a pleasant linear scent. 5/10
    Memo - Russian Leather Seems to be tribute to vintage fougeres. Leather may be in the name, but they may as well have called it Russian Fir. I mostly smell pine and lavender with some mint, leather and herbs, though the brand lists these notes: basil, pine, rosemary, clary sage, fern, lavender, coriander, mint, patchouli, guaiac, cypress, tonka, nutmeg and Russian leather. It's not a bad fragrance but it seems like there are some out-of-place herbs in the mix, could be the basil or rosemary. Bears some semblance to Tom Ford's Vert Encens, though much less sweet. 4/10 new
    Olympic Orchids - Olympic Rainforest A dark loamy forest rife with moss, mushrooms and fresh dew. This scent has a kind of soft mustiness to it that also brings to mind a vintage bookstore. Olympic Rainforest has notes of cedar, fern, rhododendron, mushrooms, oakmoss, black spruce, and balsam fir. I often can't handle oakmoss in large doses, but this here it's blended so smoothly that I can't help but like the scent. Lasts all day and softly projects for most of it. 7/10
    Olympic Orchids - Woodcut A cozy glowing hearth in an alpine lodge, you're curled nearby with a steaming caramel drink. Woodcut features notes of cedar, oak, pine and the burnt-sugar caramel aroma of warm-fresh-cut wood. The caramel and wood combo is quite addictive and unique. Lasts most of the day and has moderate projection. 8/10
    Oriza L. Legrand - Reve d'Ossian Dense resins, incense and myrrh. (sharp)Pine is a more of a top note to the incense and benzoin base, and fades out a few minutes after application. A very dry scent. Lasts several hours. 5/10
    Penhaligon's - Juniper Sling Fizzy citrus and crisp juniper with a bit of a herbal vetiver. Juniper scents tend to not last long on the skin, this not an exception. I like the juniper note, but the composition seems to fall apart by the end of the first hour. Reminiscent of CDG Sugi, though I prefer Sugi. 5/10 new
    Phlur - Greylocke If you're looking for pine, look elsewhere. I find the written notes(pine and apple) to be very misleading, with this being almost entirely vetiver. -/10 new
    Profumum Roma - Arso A sap-encrusted pine log, smoldering in the remains of a dying fire. Arso is a powerful, beautiful scent with notes of incense, leather, Virginia cedar and pine, though resin is the dominant note to my nose. Leather is listed as a note, but I can't detect it. It's mostly linear, but no complaints here. Longevity and projection are all-day and enormous. 8.5/10
    Ralph Lauren - Polo (Green) Pine, leather and a bit of tobacco, this one is a classic for a reason. It's classy and lasts a long time. My dad used to wear this one though, I doubt I'd wear it much myself. (I have only smelled the more recent formulations) 6/10 new
    Robert Piguet - Oud "A huge dose of myrhh and resin with smaller amounts of pine and mild oud. Unfortunately it comes across as a bit stuffy to my nose, the myrhh really drowns out everything else. 5/10 new
    Serge Lutens - Fille en Aiguilles A freshly-cut Christmas wreath surrounded by the candied fruit and baked goods of holiday preparations. Notes of Fille en Aiguilles include pine needles, vetiver, bay leaf, spices, fruit and incense, though the pine needles are mostly gone after 30 minutes or so. I don't care for the drydown of stewed fruit quite as much, which is a shame because the opening is one of the most phenomenal out of any coniferous fragrance I've smelled. Longevity is only a couple hours at best, and it primarily projects in the first hour. 7/10
    Slumberhouse - Norne The primordial heart of Mirkwood forest, heavy, dank, and a bit scary. Norne is pretty simple in terms of notes, which are listed as fog-caked needle, lichen, moss, hemlock, incense. In the vial it is a thick, sticky dark green liquid. It's a fairly realistic fir scent, but I would say it's more the idealized scent of fir, what I think of when I imagine fir. I love this scent though I usually only consider wearing it in very cold weather. Legendary longevity, and the projection is moderate to heavy. (This entry is based the newer formulation of Norne [post-2012]). 9/10
    Slumberhouse - Grev A fresh blast of spicy clove and pine, Grev is a very far-removed gentlemanly cousin of Norne; Slumberhouse's interpretation of a fougere. The clove is most evident in the first 20 minutes of application, settling into more of a damp spring fir with a hint of powdery orris and eucalyptus(not listed in the notes). The notes from Slumberhouse are copaiba balsam, fir resin, clove, orris root and cedar. It doesn't last quite as long as other Slumberhouse offerings, but nothing to complain about either. 8/10 new
    Soivohle - Twelve Keys "A thick syrupy bottle-green extrait, Twelve Keys is a dense blend of balsam fir, anise, and orris. I can barely can stand to sniff the green stain that is Twelve Keys for the first half hour after I spray it; there's a very sharp and almost paint-like opening. Riding out the opening however, it turns into a gorgeously blended winter fir fragrance. Some of the best star anise I have smelled.----------------------------------------------------------As a side note, I think the inspiration for the name of this scent is interesting, it is named after a real book called ""The Twelve Keys of Basil Valentine"", an alchemical codex written by Johann Tholde in 1599. 8/10 new
    Solstice Scents - Russian Caravan A whistling tea kettle being made over the fire after a night of camping. Notes are amber, smoked black tea, leather, pine resin, smoke, and black currant. This is a really nice indie scent in EDP concentration, the black tea and leather accords really work well together in the drydown. Lasts around 3 hours, projection is fairly low. 7/10
    Svensk Parfym- En Starts off with a blast of black pepper, juniper berries and tobacco. Like other juniper scents it is very sharp upon initial spray, but settles down to a peppery pine kind of fragrance. From the website it is described as "a tribute to the Swedish juniper where all the aspects of this marvellous tree are interpreted", and I'd have to agree. Probably the longest lasting juniper I have tried, it lasts several hours. 7.5/10 new
    Thorn & Bloom - Evergreen "From the notes (fir cone, pine needle. guaiac wood, cedar, smoke, oakmoss, agarwood Vanilla) this sounded like my dream fragrance. Unfortunately I used up my whole 2ml sample trying to convince myself that I liked it, but it was not to be. I really can't put my finger on the culprit, but there is something in the mix that is off-putting to my nose, something that makes Evergreen smell dangerously similar to cleaning product. There are certainly pine cones & needles present, but the smoke and oakmoss and oud just are not evident to my nose. It is an extrait and lasts all day. 2/10 new
    Tom Ford - Vert Encens An almost faintly gourmand evergreen incense, this is one of my favorites from Tom Ford. There is definitely a vintage vibe to this one despite being released fairly recently and a kind of almost staleness in the opening, but that dissipates quickly. Very festive and classy fragrance. 7/10
    Tiziana Terenzi - Ecstasy The kind of ecstasy that you find in the solitude of a remote snowy wilderness; a sunny yet chilly winter wonderland fragrance. Ecstasy is an enigmatic blend of pine, spruce, incense, patchouli, and rose. The rose adds in a fair amount of sweetness to offset the dry incense, the pine is dominant and rounds it out. Because of the rose it leans a bit feminine, but I again I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from wearing it. It is available as an extrait and lasts all day. 8.5/10 new
    Vagabond Prince - Enchanted Forest A black currant bush with juicy berries surrounded by a springtime evergreen forest. It also reminds me of the smell of opening a fruit rollup or a bag of gummy bears. Enchanted Forest is a very jammy and sweet scent with notes of blackcurrant, honeysuckle, opoponax, oakmoss, fir balsam, and cedar. 8/10

    Recommendations:


    I want a festive Christmas-y fragrance:
    -Dasein Winter
    -House of Matriarch Sacre Noir
    -Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles
    -Guerlain Baiser de Russie
    -Demeter Christmas Tree

    I want to smell just like a realistic forest:
    -House of Matriarch Future's Past
    -Olympic Orchids Olympic Rainforest
    -Heretic Perfumes Blood Cedar
    -Svensk En
    -Alkemia Mesnee d'Hellequin

    I want to smell like a smoky forest:
    -Dasein Winter Nights
    -Apoteker Tepe the Holy Mountain
    -Hendley Fume
    -Profumum Roma Arso
    -Brooklyn Euphorium Wald
    -Olympic Orchids Woodcut

    I want to smell like a fantasy forest:
    -Slumberhouse Norne
    -Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest
    -Tiziana Terenzi Ecstasy
    -Lvnea Ghost Pine
    -Imaginary Authors Cape Heartache

    Calming and Meditative:
    -Comme des Garçons Hinoki
    -Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee
    -Aesop Hwyl
    -Comme des Garçons Incense Zagorsk
    -Alkemia Falling Stars at Winter Solstice

    A few favorites not categorized in these lists:
    -DS & Durga El Cosmico
    -Slumberhouse Grev
    -Soivohle Twelve Keys

    Bonus: Some of the players. Missing a lot of samples that I didn't get around to pulling out.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella


  8. #8
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by ClockworkAlice View Post
    I somehow get the impression that coniferous notes aren't very popular in female-marketed fragrances, am I right?
    Sadly, that does seem to be true. Many in this roundup seem to be unisex, though.

    Thanks for this massive effort, junior-surgeon. I see several here that need to go on my test list.

  9. #9

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by ClockworkAlice View Post
    Thank you for this huge work, it was a very interesting read - and a lot of things to try in the future! I do enjoy the calming scent of evergreen forests and it would be a pleasure to find and try more fragrances with this scent, and guides like this help a lot.
    I somehow get the impression that coniferous notes aren't very popular in female-marketed fragrances, am I right?
    I believe you are right.

    I love coniferous scents. Great list, and a couple to add to my test-list. Thanks for sharing.
    Chypreish”:
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    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  10. #10
    Super Member junior_surgeon's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Thanks for transcribing the post, Scarce. I'm not as familiar with Basenotes formatting.

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    This is really great, thanks Jr.S. Wide reaching list with concise and tangible descriptions, well done. And thanks to Scarce for posting in-thread. I'm mostly on the same page in terms of how I perceive those listed that I've tried. It seems smaller US houses have a propensity for creating coniferous &| smoky coniferous scents. I think Incendo, Fume, The Holy Mountain, and Norne are all outstanding examples. I recently tried Future's Past and indeed, crazy realistic pine forest vibe, forest floor and all. I'm not all that keen on HoM in general (although who can keep up these days?) but this is a nice one.

    Conifers definitely seem to be directed to male wearers when gender is denoted, but they of course smell great on anyone. I'd be curious to see someone do a more fem-leaning campfire conifer, maybe with a rose/jasmine/LotV accord. Maybe florals don't pair all that well with smoky bases or something. Smolderose starts to go there but strikes me as staunchly unisex. Plus, not especially coniferous.

    Aside from Polo, I can't think of too many classic/vintage fragrances that are as straightforwardly coniferous as stuff today is. Esencia Loewe kind of is, and...am I just having a brain fart or does the fir balsam conifer seem to be a fairly new thing? Many older scents are cedar heavy, but they don't evoke "forest" the way newer stuff does.

  12. #12
    Super Member junior_surgeon's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    This is really great, thanks Jr.S. Wide reaching list with concise and tangible descriptions, well done. And thanks to Scarce for posting in-thread. I'm mostly on the same page in terms of how I perceive those listed that I've tried. It seems smaller US houses have a propensity for creating coniferous &| smoky coniferous scents. I think Incendo, Fume, The Holy Mountain, and Norne are all outstanding examples. I recently tried Future's Past and indeed, crazy realistic pine forest vibe, forest floor and all. I'm not all that keen on HoM in general (although who can keep up these days?) but this is a nice one.

    Conifers definitely seem to be directed to male wearers when gender is denoted, but they of course smell great on anyone. I'd be curious to see someone do a more fem-leaning campfire conifer, maybe with a rose/jasmine/LotV accord. Maybe florals don't pair all that well with smoky bases or something. Smolderose starts to go there but strikes me as staunchly unisex. Plus, not especially coniferous.

    Aside from Polo, I can't think of too many classic/vintage fragrances that are as straightforwardly coniferous as stuff today is. Esencia Loewe kind of is, and...am I just having a brain fart or does the fir balsam conifer seem to be a fairly new thing? Many older scents are cedar heavy, but they don't evoke "forest" the way newer stuff does.
    Thanks for the kind words. Come to think of it, it does seem like more of an American smaller-house practice to make coniferous fragrances, and thank goodness they do. The balsam fir trend is relatively new, and I feel like a heretic for saying it, but I am not a big fan of many vintage fragrances, including those that feature pine. There are some on my list that I have been meaning to try such as Tsar and Quorum though, and I'd be interested in getting ahold of some cosmair-era Polo green as well.

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  14. #14

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Thank you for sharing this very detailed, extensive and throughly well documented list - enjoyed reading this so much to the point of considering a few, including blind, future purchases.

    A few fragrances would perhaps nevertheless add to this very generous and very inspired list for some (re) testing would be most likely a few affordable ones, namely Pino Silvestre and Krizia Uomo and pricier a one, although only slightly costlier if compared to its quality, its performance and the overall creativity of its particular house, namely Knize Forest-albeit more of a mossy, herbal, green rather than 100% full fledged coniferous one.
    Currently wearing: Citrus & Wood by Yardley

  15. #15

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Duplicate post
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 10th June 2019 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Most likely erroneous duplicate post, please delete and/or ignore
    Currently wearing: Citrus & Wood by Yardley

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Very informative guide. Adding stuff to my to-try list.

    Seconding Ken. I'd be happy to hear your opinions on some classics like Pino silvestre and Acqua di Selva. And coniferous aromatic Itaian stuff like Krizia Uomo (which used to be very cheap online).

    cacio

  17. #17

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    What a wonderful group of descriptions. Thanks for all your effort to put this together. I really appreciate the fact that you included so many lesser known niche brands. Euphorium Brooklyn is a great, little-known house. Also glad to see House of Matriarch and Imaginary Authors in there. Such a shame that Apoteker Tepe closed up shop. I have tiny decants of The Peradam and Karasu...I keep saving them for a special occasion because once their gone, their gone for good.
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Thanks for the guide! I'm also surprised to see alkemia up there as she doesn't get talked about alot on basenotes. She has a really good price to satisfaction ratio and a tremendous amount of reviews so thank you for mentioning her.

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Well done!

    Off hand, I can think of a couple of oddball but good additions: (1) Colorado by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for American Perfumer (unfortunately limited to 50 bottles) and (2) Voyager Spirit by Oriflame, strongly featuring the mastic evergreen from the Greek island of Chios.

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Thank you for sharing this.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by junior_surgeon View Post
    I love coniferous fragrances and made a guide about them on Reddit a little while back. Posted this some time ago in the coneheads group, but here it is again for anyone curious to sample the genre. I'm always looking to expand it though, suggestions and feedback welcome!


    https://old.reddit.com/r/fragrance/c...ces_version_2/
    Most excellent! Thanks so much for this. Arso by Profumum Roma is my next Pine resin sample adventure...
    Currently wearing: Cannibale by Serge Lutens

  22. #22
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Wonderful breakdown, thank you! I grew up in the Pacific Northwest and coniferous scents are ingrained in the deepest part of my memory, one of my absolute favorite notes.
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  23. #23

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Really great collection of short, punchy reviews.

    Glad to see some love for the Dasein Winter twins...they don't get much attention, poor things. Lots on this list I still need to smell!
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by ClockworkAlice View Post
    Thank you for this huge work, it was a very interesting read - and a lot of things to try in the future! I do enjoy the calming scent of evergreen forests and it would be a pleasure to find and try more fragrances with this scent, and guides like this help a lot.
    I somehow get the impression that coniferous notes aren't very popular in female-marketed fragrances, am I right?
    That's been my observation.

    I've been longing for a pine fragrance that is decidedly detached from masculine leanings or Christmas spices or winter forest connections. Someday maybe someone will simply use a green coniferous note in a delicate feminine composition.
    Currently wearing: New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

  25. #25

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    That's been my observation.

    I've been longing for a pine fragrance that is decidedly detached from masculine leanings or Christmas spices or winter forest connections. Someday maybe someone will simply use a green coniferous note in a delicate feminine composition.
    You should try Dasein Winter. The coniferous aspect is clear as a bell, but it's decidedly delicate and has a feminine edge with a softly sweet powdery backbone. My wife poaches my bottle all the time.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    I don't want to hijack this thread but, if it is appropriate to ask junior_surgeon and the assembled brain trust, what if any coniferous fragrances are best suited to hot weather? I have a mental ideal of a more airy, transparent coniferous perfume that plays in the upper register of that scent profile, omitting the earthiness, but I do not know that it exists. Opinions appreciated.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by schnozz View Post
    I don't want to hijack this thread but, if it is appropriate to ask junior_surgeon and the assembled brain trust, what if any coniferous fragrances are best suited to hot weather? I have a mental ideal of a more airy, transparent coniferous perfume that plays in the upper register of that scent profile, omitting the earthiness, but I do not know that it exists. Opinions appreciated.
    I like wearing Bottega Veneta PH in hot weather. It's mostly leather/pine but both are very light, and it's got some bergamot too so that keeps it fresh and airy. It's not super powerful in terms of performance either, so it won't be too heavy. It has a kind of old-school vibe, reminds me a bit of Barbasol shaving cream.
    "To 'give style' to one's character-- a great and rare art!" - Nietzsche

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  28. #28

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Quote Originally Posted by schnozz View Post
    I don't want to hijack this thread but, if it is appropriate to ask junior_surgeon and the assembled brain trust, what if any coniferous fragrances are best suited to hot weather? I have a mental ideal of a more airy, transparent coniferous perfume that plays in the upper register of that scent profile, omitting the earthiness, but I do not know that it exists. Opinions appreciated.
    I'd say CdG Hinoki, CdG Zagorsk, Slumberhouse Grev and L'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe are the best fits that I'm familiar with.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  29. #29
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Dior Granville is THE hot weather coniferous fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by schnozz View Post
    I don't want to hijack this thread but, if it is appropriate to ask junior_surgeon and the assembled brain trust, what if any coniferous fragrances are best suited to hot weather? I have a mental ideal of a more airy, transparent coniferous perfume that plays in the upper register of that scent profile, omitting the earthiness, but I do not know that it exists. Opinions appreciated.

  30. #30

    Default Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    +1 on Granville and grev




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