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  1. #1

    Default Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I'd love some advice from the experts on this forum regarding two directions of perfumery I'd like to sample in order to find my perfect scent.

    One is the rose/patch/oud combo. I own a 30ml decant of Montale's Black Aoud, which I've been working through. I love the way it smells but two things are keeping me from loving it. One is the very quick olfactory fatigue I experience (Why buy a perfume if you can't smell it after 30 minutes?) and two is that I wish it were a little more refined or interesting, rather than just loud. I've had a few people get up and change seats in the subway. I also have a sample of Portrait of a Lady, which I find to be more interesting than Black Aoud. I'm currently running through my 1.2ml and am really intrigued but perhaps it's 1) a little too "musty old woman" in the opening and 2) too synthetic, ambery in the base. I find it to be pretty transparent, and I prefer riches perfumes. What the two fragrances do well, though, is give me a sensation of feeling very clean and invigorated. I know people classify these as winter scents, but I love them in the summer, with bare skin, a simple t-shirt and jeans. I think it's the musk that's working underneath everything to give me that feeling of cleanliness.

    The other direction I'd like to try is the pungent/stinky oud direction. I own several oud oils, Dior's Leather Oud, and I really like Oud Ispahan as well. I recently sprayed myself at a Duty Free with Xerjoff's Oud Stars Malesia. I find the cheesy opening to be gorgeous but perhaps there's a little too much vanilla in the base for me to like it. The price is a bit prohibitive as well, though I'd be open to purchasing a decant. Currently, I have Ajmal's Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition on my radar that I'd like to try.

    If you could offer any suggestions, I'd much appreciate it!

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Welcome to you AOUD! Enjoy your time here at Basenotes!

    Two suggestions both from the same house, Montale:


    For your first wish - try Arabians
    For your second wish - try Aoud Cuir D'Arabie
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Thank you! I will definitely give both a try. Luckily, there are a few good places in NYC that stock Montale.

  4. #4
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by AOUD View Post
    Thank you! I will definitely give both a try. Luckily, there are a few good places in NYC that stock Montale.
    Please don't forget to share your thoughts if you do.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Welcome!

    Interesting that you put Oud Ispahan among the examples of stinky oud. For me, it would be a great example of western rose-oud (ie in your first category). Although it's true that it is not fresh.

    I think you are right in identifying a powerful synthetic woody amber in Portrait of a lady. That's part of the effect. Have you tried Amouage Lyric man? Not patch, but a rose plus woody and clean musky materials that feels fresh and even sporty, yet complex.

    cacio

  6. #6

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Thanks!

    Oud Ispahan is definitely easier on the nose that Leather Oud and my oud oils (I've so far only purchased in the 90-150 3ml range, so I get some that are pretty barnyard). I find its initial scent really addictive and perhaps in the dry down is when it begins to approximate Leather Oud with a similar kind of furry wood. I often layer OI with a Hindi Oud I have if I want to go toward the more fecal, or a Laotian Oud, if I want to get some gasoline-like and fruity notes. In general, I love the rose-oud combo. I picked up Abdul Samad al Qurashi's Taif Rose 500 oil, thinking it would be great for layering, but haven't had too much success. It smells pretty good but is a little heavy on the musk. In fact, it reminds me of Montale's Black Aoud sans the alcohol. It's similarly pitched.

    I have tried Amouage Lyric man! I have a spray sample. I tried it over a year ago and felt that it smelled too much like hairspray, but then I recently took my sample on a work trip and sprayed myself two on the chest every morning for five days. I started to like it, especially in the opening when it's most limey and piney. It's the drydown that feels a bit too vanillic and powdery—but overall of better quality than Portrait of a Lady's or Black Aoud's musky fresh bases. I've read good things about Lyric woman. It seems darker and perhaps more in line with Oud Ispahan than its masculine counterpart, which tempts me.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Oudh Infini by Dusita is good and real oud.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I suppose it depends on how much you want to spend and whether you want real oud or are satisfied with synthetic. I find the Montale's to be screechy and medicinal, so Black Aoud isn't my thing.

    If cost isn't a problem, these were suggested in another thread.

    Areej Le Dore Malik al Taif
    Bortnikoff Oud Maximus
    Sultan Pasha Al Hareem
    Rising Phoenix Perfumery Musk Rose


    If you don't want to spend that much, these are probably a little cheaper.

    Aramis Perfume Calligraphy
    Diptyque Oud Palao
    Atelier Rose Anonyme




    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garšons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella


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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I agree that towards the base Oud Ispahan and Leather oud converge. Lyric woman probably used to be dark, but the latest I have smelled was not good. Thin rose, without much depth.

    cacio

  10. #10

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Perhaps in the first direction (though the oud is minimal in these) - Habit Rouge EDP and/or Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, both by Guerlain

    In the second direction, maybe also Luxor Oud

  11. #11

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I'd love to sniff it but am afraid I'd never be able to afford a bottle.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    I suppose it depends on how much you want to spend and whether you want real oud or are satisfied with synthetic. I find the Montale's to be screechy and medicinal, so Black Aoud isn't my thing.

    If cost isn't a problem, these were suggested in another thread.

    Areej Le Dore Malik al Taif
    Bortnikoff Oud Maximus
    Sultan Pasha Al Hareem
    Rising Phoenix Perfumery Musk Rose


    If you don't want to spend that much, these are probably a little cheaper.

    Aramis Perfume Calligraphy
    Diptyque Oud Palao
    Atelier Rose Anonyme




    Some really nice suggestions here! I've been so curious about some of these high end ones.

    On the lower end, I've wanted to try Perfume Calligraphy because I've read such great things about it. I tried Oud Palao on paper both at a Diptyque store and at Barneys. It smells really similar to Oud Ispahan (as others have said) but perhaps has too much vanilla in the base for me. I don't know what's a matter with me but I've been really avoiding fragrances with vanilla. It might be because of my youth filled with designer frags of ambery bases or the fact that I find them too safe. I know Oud Palao is miles away from any of these connotations and scent profiles but my olfactory memory goes there...

  13. #13

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I agree that towards the base Oud Ispahan and Leather oud converge. Lyric woman probably used to be dark, but the latest I have smelled was not good. Thin rose, without much depth.

    cacio
    Why do formulations always seem to be for the worst? I've thought about giving up my search at times to just devote myself to Oud Ispahan but am afraid of what people are saying about its reformulation as well.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Perhaps in the first direction (though the oud is minimal in these) - Habit Rouge EDP and/or Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, both by Guerlain

    In the second direction, maybe also Luxor Oud
    Thanks for the recommendation! I hadn't heard of this one by Memo. I've only sampled Tiger's Nest from this house, whose vanilla also ruined it for me

  15. #15
    Dependent Cheetah1919's Avatar
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Oudh Infini by Dusita is good and real oud.
    This one is pretty hardcore, worth a try!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Hello friends, so I ended up pulling the trigger on a fragrance that wasn't recommended but which I've been eyeing for quite some time. Ajmal's Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition. I also have a 5ml decant of Aramis' Perfume Calligraphy Rose coming in the mail. Here's an excerpt of my review of Dahn Oudh Al Shams:


    Purchased on Ebay from an Omani seller for a hefty sum of 140 dollars for 30ml, Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition is an oud affair of the petrol, oak barrel variety. While reviews on other sites either exult or shrink from its supposed barnyard quality, I don’t get much funk. It’s neither fecal nor cheesy nor fermented. Brand new tires and alcohol fill the nose upon first spray and hang in the air with a kind of density only equaled by rich, resinous, amber-y orientals. To my delight, instead of vanilla’s pedestrianism or sandalwood’s familiarity, a primordial concoction of wood rot, fossil fuels, and marshland give the sensation that I’ve just atomized an attar.

    Whether synthetic or natural or more likely some brilliant combination of the two, this is the closest alcohol-based perfume I’ve smelled that approximates real oud oil. Its facets are similar to Xerjoff’s Oud Stars: Al-Khatt, except that equally pricey offering is cheesier and sweeter, undergirded by vanilla and topped off by jasmine. Dahn Oudh Al Shams reminds me of a Borneo oil from my collection because of its jammy-ness that lacks the fruit nuances of fig or date that’s typically associated with some oud oils.

    Unfortunately, I don’t get the greatest projection. Perhaps for better, the fragrance calms down around the hour mark and dries down to a woodier representation that still maintains its initial notes. My sense is that while the “ouddict” in me would prefer a powerhouse exulting its carnival-like complexity, for daily wear and public use, its dry down is much more appropriate, since a quieter intensity of its notes will exude from the skin in a more natural and attractive way that will have someone who hugs you or whispers in your ear guessing at what exactly it is they’re smelling.

    The high price and small bottle have me rationing my sprays much in the same way I cherish and space apart the days I apply my 3ml oud oils. One spray of Dahn Oudh Al Shams Special Edition and then two of Dior’s Leather Oud or Oud Ispahan (plus a swipe of oud oil or Abdul Samad Al Qurashi’s Taif Rose attar) fattens the olfactory range I’m working within and makes everyone weak in the knees.

  17. #17
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by AOUD View Post
    Unfortunately, I don’t get the greatest projection.
    Do you apply an unscented moisturizing lotion prior to applying fragrance? That might help.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Do you apply an unscented moisturizing lotion prior to applying fragrance? That might help.
    At the moment, I haven't been applying because it's been so hot and humid in NYC but I typically use unscented shea butter. I will have to try a bit on my chest!




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