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Thread: Iris Question

  1. #31
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    If you want ‘death by iris’, by all means seek out older vintages of Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. Roots, wet clay and earth. Nice in smaller doses but it tends to wear me out. The ‘one iris to rule them all’, definitely reference stuff.

    Xerjoff Irisss is indeed lovely but also a little too straightforward, and pricey for what it does.

    Chanel 28 La Pausa edt is a greener, fresher take, but far too fleeting. Not sure if the EDP is much of an improvement, esp. in terms of balance.

    Le Labo Iris 39 is quite a stunner, more floral but somehow feels artificially augmented. An iris ‘cyborg’ in a sense, lol. But it drew an unsolicited compliment from a female colleague.

    Francesca Bianchi Under My Skin uses a hefty dose of orris butter to underpin the leathery-musky and sensual composition. I’d be surprised if you haven’t tried this one yet as it seems right up your alley.

    My current reigning iris is Belles Rives by La Parfumerie Moderne. It’s a cool, powdery-airy combination of iris and apricot-suede of osmanthus. Gorgeous breezy iris.
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  2. #32
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Just curious, was the ISM you tried the vintage version or the new, reformulated one?
    It was a small decant from the Perfumed Court quite a few years ago (at least 5), so I’m guessing it may have been “vintage “.

    Edit - Tried to find where I originally posted, but too much of a hassle on my phone. I found a post from 2015 where I commented on ISM, and I’m pretty sure it had been at least 2-3 years since I sampled it when I made that comment. So I’d say I sampled it 7-8 years ago, and the decant would have been from a bottle at least a little older than that, but I have no way of knowing just how old the bottle was.

    around 2013 or thereabouts there was some technical development in the production of orris, leading it to be made more quickly and cheaply. There was a slew of releases featuring more iris around that time. I’m not sure how this new process compared to the traditional longer process, but there’s a good chance that many scents using iris would have switched to orris made with the new cheaper, faster process, so apart from IFRA this could be a cause of reformulation in iris scents.
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    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
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  3. #33
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    In my opinion, the holy grail iris is Xerjoff Irisss. I consider this a gold standard for iris based scents. Absolutely wonderful.

    Guerlain Iris Ganache is also really nice if you enjoy a gourmand take on iris.
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  4. #34
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    If you want ‘death by iris’, by all means seek out older vintages of Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. Roots, wet clay and earth. Nice in smaller doses but it tends to wear me out. The ‘one iris to rule them all’, definitely reference stuff.

    Xerjoff Irisss is indeed lovely but also a little too straightforward, and pricey for what it does.

    Chanel 28 La Pausa edt is a greener, fresher take, but far too fleeting. Not sure if the EDP is much of an improvement, esp. in terms of balance.

    Le Labo Iris 39 is quite a stunner, more floral but somehow feels artificially augmented. An iris ‘cyborg’ in a sense, lol. But it drew an unsolicited compliment from a female colleague.

    Francesca Bianchi Under My Skin uses a hefty dose of orris butter to underpin the leathery-musky and sensual composition. I’d be surprised if you haven’t tried this one yet as it seems right up your alley.

    My current reigning iris is Belles Rives by La Parfumerie Moderne. It’s a cool, powdery-airy combination of iris and apricot-suede of osmanthus. Gorgeous breezy iris.
    You know, I just read a ClaireV review of Belles Rives, so I'm adding that to my (ever-growing) sample list.

    I did try Under My Skin and found it a bit "gritty." That's the only way I can describe it: sort of "brown and sandy" and unappealing. Weird, I know.
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  5. #35

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Iris is my favorite note. My personal favorites are:

    Irisss (too rich for my blood at the moment)
    Infusion d’Iris Absolue (hard to get but a great value and gorgeous)
    No. 19 Poudre (iris/galbanum)
    31 Rue Cambon EDT (bergamot/iris/jasmine/patchouli)
    Infusion d’Iris EDP (iris/vetiver/galbanum)— my most worn
    28 La Pausa (used up my sample in one wear)
    L’Heure Promise (iris/carrot/clean laundry/sandalwood)
    Dior Homme Intense (iris/makeup/chocolate)
    Iris Ganache (iris/white chocolate)
    L’Attesa (need to revisit)
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  6. #36
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Because I think the value is there and any one could be unisex I'd encourage you to visit Bloomingdale's or it's ilk and try the whole Prada L'Homme line.

    They are all takes on an iris heart and you might go gaga for one of the variations. Plus, if you do get a nose boner™, it'd be at a price you can afford (even at retail) compared to the majority of what's being discussed so far.

    Cheers,
    /Acey

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Iris is my favorite note. My personal favorites are:

    Irisss (too rich for my blood at the moment)
    Infusion d’Iris Absolue (hard to get but a great value and gorgeous)
    No. 19 Poudre (iris/galbanum)
    31 Rue Cambon EDT (bergamot/iris/jasmine/patchouli)
    Infusion d’Iris EDP (iris/vetiver/galbanum)— my most worn
    28 La Pausa (used up my sample in one wear)
    L’Heure Promise (iris/carrot/clean laundry/sandalwood)
    Dior Homme Intense (iris/makeup/chocolate)
    Iris Ganache (iris/white chocolate)
    L’Attesa (need to revisit)
    Your passion for iris is equivalent to my passion for vanilla
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  8. #38
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Iris is my favorite note. My personal favorites are:

    Irisss (too rich for my blood at the moment)
    Infusion d’Iris Absolue (hard to get but a great value and gorgeous)
    No. 19 Poudre (iris/galbanum)
    31 Rue Cambon EDT (bergamot/iris/jasmine/patchouli)
    Infusion d’Iris EDP (iris/vetiver/galbanum)— my most worn
    28 La Pausa (used up my sample in one wear)
    L’Heure Promise (iris/carrot/clean laundry/sandalwood)
    Dior Homme Intense (iris/makeup/chocolate)
    Iris Ganache (iris/white chocolate)
    L’Attesa (need to revisit)
    Wow! I have a feeling I'm going to be following in your iris-y footsteps!
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Check out Iris Ghalia Pure Parfum by Ensar Oud

  10. #40

    Default Re: Iris Question

    I wholeheartedly agree with all recommendations, but would add a couple more
    SHL 777 Khol de Bahrain - iris done right. Kafkaesque has done a review.
    Iris Macchiato but auphorie. Coffee and Iris - is quite impressive
    Ormonde Jayne Vanille Iris. I think that one got 4 stars from LT

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    As I haven’t tried Irisss, Lutens Iris Silver Mist would probably be my ultimate iris, but it was a bit much for me. Intellectually stimulating to smell, but not something I could wear.

    Favorite iris scents are
    La Pausa (I’ve only tried the EdT) which is a breezy, clean iris. Infusion d’Iris is also very good and in a similar ballpark.
    Orris & Sandalwood by Jo Malone is a simple composition of iris, violet and sandalwood that I enjoy.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Iris lover here.

    Some not mentioned already

    SMN Iris a simple straight fragrance but so pretty

    Parfumerie Generale Iris Oriental a warm rich oriental style

    Instead of No19 try Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

    Miller Harris Terre d'Iris starts citrus then kicks down into a pretty iris.

    Ombre Mercure by Terry de Gunzburg there is also an extreme version which I have not tried.

    Parfums Del Rae Mythique

    L'Occitane also did a nice iris in their Flora range now discontinued but I am sure still around on eBay.
    DONNA

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Infusion d’Iris Absolue (hard to get but a great value and gorgeous)
    No. 19 Poudre (iris/galbanum)
    Infusion d’Iris EDP (iris/vetiver/galbanum)— my most worn
    Dior Homme Intense (iris/makeup/chocolate)[/b]
    Love both the Pradas, especially the Absolue. Dior Homme Intense is a beauty and Dior Homme Parfum is a much darker iris over smoked woods and dirty leather. I'm a fan of No.19 EDT personally.

    I'm also a massive fan of both Dior's Bois d'Argent and Van Cleef and Arpel's Bois d'Iris - quite similar in a lot of respects. I would probably say the Dior is my favourite but not by much and the latter is a lot more affordable. Both smell effortlessly classy (much as the Pradas above) and they're surprisingly persistent.

    Quote Originally Posted by AceyMan View Post
    Because I think the value is there and any one could be unisex I'd encourage you to visit Bloomingdale's or it's ilk and try the whole Prada L'Homme line.

    Cheers,
    /Acey
    Prada l'Homme is quality, I've also got the Intense which didn't click as much with me.

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Not mentioned yet - L'Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida. I found it cold, super-smooth, and interesting. Not sure how hard to find now.

    Lubin Bluff is also a nice one. High on my list.
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  14. #44

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Not mentioned yet - L'Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida. I found it cold, super-smooth, and interesting. Not sure how hard to find now.

    Lubin Bluff is also a nice one. High on my list.
    Oh yes, how could I forget L'Artisan Iris Pallida really lovely iris.
    DONNA

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I, too, own a decant of Irisss (and a mere dribble of Irisss attar) and both are stupendous. Gives much more volume than the typical 'iris' designer scents, which I also enjoy.
    Dior, Homme Parfum - a solid melange of iris, leather and cacao to my nose.
    Atelier des Ors, Iris Fauve - almost animalic, iris-centric with plenty of backdrop to the floral fore.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Just wanted to post and say good luck Starblind! I, too, got bit by the iris bug years ago. But that was back when Iris Silver Mist was non-reformulated. I went through a bottle fast!

    Please try Infusion d'Iris by Prada. It's very well done. Sort of a no-nonsense, daily driver kind of iris.

    And, yes, Irisss by Xerjoff is da' bomb!
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  17. #47

    Default Re: Iris Question

    I just wanted to say that I recently bought one of the Iris Silver Mist testers on Fragrancenet since I had a credit card offer and combined with some other coupons it was too cheap to pass up.
    The package I received was sealed with an original Lutens sticker and it was dated 2013.
    Maybe those more in the know can say if ISM was reformulated before or after this date? I haven't smelled the new bell jar bottles yet, so I don't have anything else to compare it to (but maybe I'll pick up a sample one of these days to say for sure). Also entirely possible it was just an old sticker !
    Just thought I'd offer that in case this is a rare case of a pre-reformulation being easily available.
    Currently wearing: Timbre by Chris Rusak

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Angélique by Papillon is another lovely iris - on the sweet side, but delicate and quite well done.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Anucci Femme, preferably the vintage, iris and balsamic flavor.

    Bruise Violet by Sixteen92 is another fabulous example.
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  20. #50
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mrmorel View Post
    I just wanted to say that I recently bought one of the Iris Silver Mist testers on Fragrancenet since I had a credit card offer and combined with some other coupons it was too cheap to pass up.
    The package I received was sealed with an original Lutens sticker and it was dated 2013.
    Maybe those more in the know can say if ISM was reformulated before or after this date? I haven't smelled the new bell jar bottles yet, so I don't have anything else to compare it to (but maybe I'll pick up a sample one of these days to say for sure). Also entirely possible it was just an old sticker !
    Just thought I'd offer that in case this is a rare case of a pre-reformulation being easily available.
    I just bought one of these, too. Hopefully, I will have forgotten what the original smelled like and be very happy with this version (whatever age it is).
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    Iris lover here.

    Some not mentioned already

    SMN Iris a simple straight fragrance but so pretty

    Parfumerie Generale Iris Oriental a warm rich oriental style

    Instead of No19 try Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

    Miller Harris Terre d'Iris starts citrus then kicks down into a pretty iris.

    Ombre Mercure by Terry de Gunzburg there is also an extreme version which I have not tried.

    Parfums Del Rae Mythique

    L'Occitane also did a nice iris in their Flora range now discontinued but I am sure still around on eBay.

    I just got a decant of the SMN iris. I'll have to seek out the others on your list.
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Another great iris is by Bruno Fazzolari, Feu Secret, which combines iris with turmeric. Very nice.

  23. #53

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Another great iris is by Bruno Fazzolari, Feu Secret, which combines iris with turmeric. Very nice.
    Ooh...this sounds neat.

  24. #54
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Another great iris is by Bruno Fazzolari, Feu Secret, which combines iris with turmeric. Very nice.
    I tried this when it first came out, but that was before my religious conversion to iris. :-) Which means I need to try it again.
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Starblind, send me a PM. I might be able to help you out on your iris quest.
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  26. #56
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    My girlfriend at the time who is now my wife got me hooked on this wonderful note(iris) with a slightly gourmand perfume she occasionally wore at the time called Le Femme Bleue by Giorgio Armani. You might not like it if you are not into semi-sweet/sweet perfumes but it’s definitely worth a try in my opinion. Good luck!

  27. #57

    Default Re: Iris Question

    If considering some (re) testing of affordable yet also good value iris fragrances might be an option (do not personally define the following admittedly as the ultimate, the most groundbreaking iris fragrances, however as the more fairly priced/good value for money in their category) Pierre Cardin Iris Sauvage and L'Erbolario Iris EDP are solid, effortlessly unisex options on the cleaner side, though neither completely devoid of a both citrus and also leathery complexity-in the clean, versatile, everyday type version of iris notes

  28. #58
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    You guys are amazing! You have given me an incredible roster of iris frags to try. Now all I have to do is seek them all out and sniff away. :-)

    If you had told me even a few weeks ago that I would become this obsessed over this particular note, I would never, ever have believed it. And yet, there's something so lovely and also "rooty" about Iris that I find completely compelling. It feels ethereal and earthbound, all at the same time. Wow.
    Currently wearing: Yendi by Roberto Capucci

  29. #59

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Some good scents with iris as a big note.

    Aedes Iris Nazarena
    Zegna Florentine Iris
    Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre
    Bruno Fazzolari Feu Secret
    Valentino Uomo Intense
    Dior Homme Intense
    Dior Homme Parfum
    Dior Homme Eau
    Prada L'homme L'eau
    Top Bottles: • costa azzurra acqua • black leather j-scent • unum Io non ho mani • terre d'hermes parfum • andree putman l'original • tonic blanc • xerjoff nio • no.9 bukhoor elixir • kosmala no. 4 apres l'amour • 19-69 capri • mandarino di amalfi acqua

  30. #60

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Your passion for iris is equivalent to my passion for vanilla
    Is it pretty obvious?

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Wow! I have a feeling I'm going to be following in your iris-y footsteps!
    Come with me
    And you’ll be
    In a world
    Of pure imagination
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.




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