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Thread: Iris Question

  1. #121

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Anyone else tried Iris Noir by ensar oud? I can smell the iris but I'm not sure if i can recommend it as an iris-prominent scent

  2. #122

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Valier View Post
    Anyone else tried Iris Noir by ensar oud? I can smell the iris but I'm not sure if i can recommend it as an iris-prominent scent
    Iris Nois isn't a typical warm iris that makes you swoon, I find it a little stark and asphalty. His Monsieur Oud on the other hand is a beauty and has so many layers to explore.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    I tend to wear one scent for quite some time, so having a fragrance I adore is worth quite a bit to me, and I am definitely in love with this one.

    I was talking to a BNer earlier who said that Irisss might have been reformulated. Do you know if this is true? If my bottle shows up and smells differently than the decant I currently have, I'm going to be fairly devastated.
    Xerjoff underwent a bottle redesign for all of their bottles back in 2017. My bottle is of the older style bottle and it smells great. There has been discussion of reformulations of their fragrances upon the release of their design bottles. I haven't smelled Irisss from the new bottles.

    If in any case you receive the newer bottle, there's a sample of older Irisss juice in that Iris sample package. You can definitely do a comparison.

    Please share your thoughts on Guerlain Iris Ganache, that is another beauty.
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mixerscent View Post
    The ones being sold on the Fragrance Vault site are definitely the older rectangle bottle, if you click on Irisss it says it in the description. I think Xerjoff changed their bottle shape some time in 2017 or 2018, so it will be at least this old. I've looked at the Jovoy site under their Terms and you can return it with 7 business days of receipt so there's nothing to be concerned about. Now if I could only press the checkout button on that Damarose
    I have to say that I love the old rectangular bottles way more. The newer bottles look rather ugly to be frank.

    You should get Damarose! That's a very beautiful chypre rose scent. If I had to buy another Xerjoff it would likely be this one. $650 is a bit pricey would you agree?
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  5. #125
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Thank you, mixerscent!

    After peering at both of these websites for a while, I see exactly what you mean. And, yes, it is definitely the older version of Irisss that I love. I've now sampled the newer version and have NO interest in purchasing it, so back to Jovoy my bottle will go.
    Will you be purchasing the one from Fragrance Vault?
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  6. #126

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mixerscent View Post
    Iris Nois isn't a typical warm iris that makes you swoon, I find it a little stark and asphalty. His Monsieur Oud on the other hand is a beauty and has so many layers to explore.
    He knocked that one right out of the park

  7. #127

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I have to say that I love the old rectangular bottles way more. The newer bottles look rather ugly to be frank.

    You should get Damarose! That's a very beautiful chypre rose scent. If I had to buy another Xerjoff it would likely be this one. $650 is a bit pricey would you agree?
    Up until 3 weeks ago I would have said yes to Damarose, then a Basenoter was kind enough to split 10ml of Henry Jacques Rose Galata spray. Rose Galata is a dewy, sweet, succulent and tangy rose. Completely spelbinding. It was gameover when it gelled up in the fridge. What's even better is it's a good deal less than Damarose.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mixerscent View Post
    Up until 3 weeks ago I would have said yes to Damarose, then a Basenoter was kind enough to split 10ml of Henry Jacques Rose Galata spray. Rose Galata is a dewy, sweet, succulent and tangy rose. Completely spelbinding. It was gameover when it gelled up in the fridge. What's even better is it's a good deal less than Damarose.
    On Fragrantica, saffron is one of the prominent notes featured. That's a difficult note for me to enjoy. Two that I did enjoy a lot are Shiseido Nombre Noire, one of the best rose fragrances that I've smelled thanks to your sample pass. Very very expensive and hard to find. The other is L'Arte di Gucci. Both have a nice aromatic rose chypre feel to them.

    I remember purchasing at least a dozen sample vials from Twisted Lily a couple years ago of Damarose, it was that good. It was featured as one of the 17/17 Xerjoffs in my Sample Pass along with Irisss and Richwood.
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    (A brand new sample of) Irisss - Yup, this has been horribly reformulated. :-( Where, oh, where, is that gorgeous, creamy orris and that beautiful dry down? I truly wouldn't even recognize this as the same fragrance. I am verklempt, to say the least.
    I would say this is maddening. My sample of Irisss was from 2013 or so, and I thought it was a beautiful perfume then. I can't think of any ingredient that would be in it that was restricted between then and now, so I have to wonder...what's the rationale for reformulation? And at these prices!

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I would say this is maddening. My sample of Irisss was from 2013 or so, and I thought it was a beautiful perfume then. I can't think of any ingredient that would be in it that was restricted between then and now, so I have to wonder...what's the rationale for reformulation? And at these prices!
    My husband asked me that same question, when I complained to him last night about how many beloved scents from the last decade have been reformulated for no reason other than apparently greed. There are scents that have no restricted ingredients to my nose that have been stripped of their richness. I can only assume it is to increase profit margins.

  11. #131

    Default Re: Iris Question

    I bought a vintage extrait of No. 19 and was bowled over by how the iris (after the galbanum blast) marched through the other notes like a platoon. The interplay of floral notes surfacing in between the banner of earthy, leathery iris is one of the great pleasures of No. 19. Still a bit harsh; I prefer the EdP.

    Lutens Iris Silver Mist is supposed to be excellent, but I haven't tried it.

  12. #132
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by cazaubon View Post
    There are scents that have no restricted ingredients to my nose that have been stripped of their richness. I can only assume it is to increase profit margins.
    Caz, here's an analogy I think you can relate to: I recently bought my favorite product from a favorite bakery, a vanilla-almond pastry filled with vanilla pastry cream. It was so unlike all previous versions that I took it back to the bakery and asked to speak to the owner. To his credit, he frankly told me that the global shortage of pure vanilla (which is a real thing that I had heard about) and resulting price hikes had so affected his profit margin that he had switched to a mixture of half real vanilla and half synthethic vanilla (vanillin). When I said I'd gladly pay a dollar or two more for it rather than buy this travesty, he said sadly that unfortunately most of his customers would not, and it was so popular he felt he couldn't take it off the menu.

    So when a perfume company has stockholders pressing for greater profit margins, it shouldn't surprise us that ingredient quality becomes one of the first economizing methods used.

  13. #133
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Caz, here's an analogy I think you can relate to: I recently bought my favorite product from a favorite bakery, a vanilla-almond pastry filled with vanilla pastry cream. It was so unlike all previous versions that I took it back to the bakery and asked to speak to the owner. To his credit, he frankly told me that the global shortage of pure vanilla (which is a real thing that I had heard about) and resulting price hikes had so affected his profit margin that he had switched to a mixture of half real vanilla and half synthethic vanilla (vanillin). When I said I'd gladly pay a dollar or two more for it rather than buy this travesty, he said sadly that unfortunately most of his customers would not, and it was so popular he felt he couldn't take it off the menu.

    So when a perfume company has stockholders pressing for greater profit margins, it shouldn't surprise us that ingredient quality becomes one of the first economizing methods used.
    Perfect analogy. This is why I've quit buying current bottles of anything. I might get Papillon's new one when it's released, but other than that I'm quite happy to spend the rest of my days enjoying the vintage treasures in my cabinet.

  14. #134
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I've decided to give up on Irisss, old or new.

    I simply cannot have another unicorn fragrance that I spend all my time and $$$ seeking out, as if on an endless search for the Holy Grail through the murky mists of time. I've done that too many times in the past with vintage Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles and Mitsouko and Onda and Rozy--scouring obscure internet sites and dating bottles and interrogating sellers and paying exorbitant sums for inferior iterations.

    Not saying I won't be compelled toward that behavior in the future (old habits die hard), but for now I'm simply going with Iris Silver Mist in its current form.

    *Although if you happen to have a vintage bottle of IRS lying around and you want me to interrogate you and pay you obscene amounts of cash, PM me. :-)

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Please don’t settle for anything less, Starblind. Get what you WANT! You know deep down what your heart desires.
    Now that I've been wearing ISM for a couple days, I actually think I enjoy it more than the Irisss. It's bit more stark and angular and green in a way that feels like "me." Believe me, I'm not the kind of person who "settles." I sometimes with I could be, but I'm WAY too selfish and I also adore perfume too much to not get exactly what I want.

  16. #136
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    I've decided to give up on Irisss, old or new.

    I simply cannot have another unicorn fragrance that I spend all my time and $$$ seeking out, as if on an endless search for the Holy Grail through the murky mists of time. I've done that too many times in the past with vintage Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles and Mitsouko and Onda and Rozy--scouring obscure internet sites and dating bottles and interrogating sellers and paying exorbitant sums for inferior iterations.

    Not saying I won't be compelled toward that behavior in the future (old habits die hard), but for now I'm simply going with Iris Silver Mist in its current form.

    *Although if you happen to have a vintage bottle of IRS lying around and you want me to interrogate you and pay you obscene amounts of cash, PM me. :-)
    Be sure to try the other iris samples from that sample package, there were 20 different iris samples I believe. You might find one that you really enjoy from them
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Be sure to try the other iris samples from that sample package, there were 20 different iris samples I believe. You might find one that you really enjoy from them
    Will do! (And thank you again!)

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Just thought I'd let any interested parties know: there is one bottle of the vintage version of Irisss left at the Fragrance Vault. I've seen the photos of the actual bottle and spoken to the owner, so here's your (perhaps last) chance to get this fragrance in its original version.

    (You can send me my finder's fee later.)

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I love Iris Silver Mist. I'm not surprised you're enjoying it immensely. I miss my bottle.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I love Iris Silver Mist. I'm not surprised you're enjoying it immensely. I miss my bottle.
    What happened to your bottle, Mike?

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    What happened to your bottle, Mike?
    I used it all up lol. Never replaced it. No reason. But I still compare all iris scents to that one.

    I do have a sample of Irisss that I haven't worn. I'll wear it tomorrow. WTH
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  22. #142
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I used it all up lol. Never replaced it. No reason. But I still compare all iris scents to that one.

    I do have a sample of Irisss that I haven't worn. I'll wear it tomorrow. WTH
    Wow. Impressive. It's rare that I hear anyone on BN talk about actually finishing a full bottle of anything!

    Is it the newer formulation of Irisss?

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Wow. Impressive. It's rare that I hear anyone on BN talk about actually finishing a full bottle of anything!

    Is it the newer formulation of Irisss?
    Iris Silver Mist is actually an alternative to Irisss. The similarities have been commonly mentioned in both the forums here and on Fragrantica whenever Irisss has been discussed. Irisss is a much more refined upgrade from ISM, that's something I can agree with.
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Just thought I'd let any interested parties know: there is one bottle of the vintage version of Irisss left at the Fragrance Vault. I've seen the photos of the actual bottle and spoken to the owner, so here's your (perhaps last) chance to get this fragrance in its original version.

    (You can send me my finder's fee later.)
    One individual here Zephyr1973 was in the hunt for a bottle not too long ago. Not sure if she wanted a backup bottle of this. At $725 adding California sales tax would make it close to $800, that's an expensive investment. Did you ask about Damarose and Richwood?
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    One individual here Zephyr1973 was in the hunt for a bottle not too long ago. Not sure if she wanted a backup bottle of this. At $725 adding California sales tax would make it close to $800, that's an expensive investment. Did you ask about Damarose and Richwood?
    I know, it's a major investment! I'm sorry to say that I didn't ask about those two. If you call them they are VERY helpful and offer to send you free samples.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Couronne de Violette View Post
    I bought a vintage extrait of No. 19 and was bowled over by how the iris (after the galbanum blast) marched through the other notes like a platoon. The interplay of floral notes surfacing in between the banner of earthy, leathery iris is one of the great pleasures of No. 19. Still a bit harsh; I prefer the EdP.
    A platoon of iris! Yes! The iris has a big presence in vintage No. 19, in both the extrait and vintage EDT. I don't think there is any hint of iris left in current No.19. EDT.

    Is the harshness you perceive in the vintage extrait due to the galbanum/leather, untempered by the powder/musk found in the EDP? Vintage No.19 is cool toned and green to me, but never harsh, but I regularly wear much more assertive leather chypres so my perceptions would vary.

  27. #147
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Wow. Impressive. It's rare that I hear anyone on BN talk about actually finishing a full bottle of anything!

    Is it the newer formulation of Irisss?
    It was my only bell jar I've ever owned from Serge Lutens. The scent of Iris Silver Mist haunted me for a while. So I have empathy for you and where you are in this search. If I remember correctly I also shared this scent with a bunch of BN friends so that's why I went through a bottle so quick.

    I am fairly certain that the Irisss sample I own is the original one - because I was gifted a whole bunch of Xerjoff samples when the line first came out. Back when no one knew about them.

    I don't see that anyone has brought this point up yet - unless I missed it above: The current listing of Irisss on Luckyscent's site says "Eau de Parfum" but the carded sample I own says "Parfum". Could this be at the root (pun intended!) of why it smells 'different' to you Starblind?
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  28. #148
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It was my only bell jar I've ever owned from Serge Lutens. The scent of Iris Silver Mist haunted me for a while. So I have empathy for you and where you are in this search. If I remember correctly I also shared this scent with a bunch of BN friends so that's why I went through a bottle so quick.

    I am fairly certain that the Irisss sample I own is the original one - because I was gifted a whole bunch of Xerjoff samples when the line first came out. Back when no one knew about them.

    I don't see that anyone has brought this point up yet - unless I missed it above: The current listing of Irisss on Luckyscent's site says "Eau de Parfum" but the carded sample I own says "Parfum". Could this be at the root (pun intended!) of why it smells 'different' to you Starblind?
    Wow. I don't know the answer to this question. I originally bought a partial refill on Ebay (they used to sell these at Parfums Raffy, so it was the original version), and it smelled DIVINE. It smelled very much like ISM, but slightly more rounded and creamy. Since then I purchased two samples that smell nothing like the original. They smell far more sweet and almost "malted" with a floral scent that reminds me of lilac. I'm currently wearing them side-by-side and I wouldn't even know they were supposed to be the same fragrance.

    That's so strange about the concentration since even the bottle that the Fragrance Vault has is an EDP.

  29. #149
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I can post a pic, if needed, of my carded sample which clearly states "Parfum". I am wearing Irisss today. OMG I forgot how good it is!!!
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  30. #150

    Default Re: Iris Question

    It may be galbanum, which is a note I don't know that well. It is intensely green and little bitter, but the leathery/earthy effect seems take over and intensify over the course of 2 hours, then dries down to be much softer. I don't get much powder, but I should try again. I get the same effect in the both the vtg parfum and EDP, but it's not as powerful in the EdP. I remember one of the first Chanels I ever bought was vintage No. 19 EDT, and it had an almost mint/white chocolate opening, then became very green and lasted forever. Must have been an 80s-era iteration.
    Last edited by Couronne de Violette; 17th June 2019 at 06:30 PM. Reason: removed word




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