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Thread: Iris Question

  1. #1
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    Default Iris Question

    Help!

    For some very strange reason, I have lost all interest in my typically animalic scents and have fallen in love with IRIS, a note I paid not one tiny whit of attention to in the past.

    This all started when I found an unmarked sample that I thoughtlessly applied and that sent me straight to scent-heaven. And, of course, as I mentioned, the sample was unmarked. Since then, I have read every review written about various and sundry iris frags, trying desperately to match up what I'm reading with what I'm smelling. Perhaps it is L'Attesa?

    I also invested (and 'invested' is definitely the right word here) in a decant of Xerjoff's Irisss. Whoo boy, is it gorgeous. I am spending today desperately trying NOT to grab my credit card.

    My questions are these:

    --has ISM been reformulated into a mere shadow of itself?

    --is L'Attesa a worthy replacement for the Irisss?

    --which iris fragrance do you think is the ultimate?

    Thank you in advance for any IRIS-related thoughts you might have!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Don't know anything about the two you mentioned, but I was the same way concernlng iris. It's been a love of mine only for about the last six years. Before that I wasn't interested.

    Here are my favorites (not in any order):

    Chanel's No.19 Poudre (I wear this the most)
    Malle's Iris Poudre. I received a bottle from a European friend and I swear it smells better than the 10 ml travel sizes I have. Gorgeous.
    Chanel's La Pausa: Very refined and breezy at the same time. Some complain about longevity, but I've not had that problem. A little goes a long way.

    What I love about these fragrances, as different as they are from one another, is that they are not as sweet or cloying as other floral notes can be. There is something more sporty and unisex about the iris note.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    ISM: it has been reformulated, but not to a shade of itself. The original was darker, almost menacing. The newer one is not as dark and has the bready note typical of modern iris. So still acceptable, though not what it was noted for.

    Irisss is intense but somewhat too simple for me, and the drydown wasn't as good. So for the price, I'd go for l'attesa.

    As for the ultimate, presumably $$$ (add a few more $) Iris de Fath, formerly known as Iris gris (not to be confused by what's now sold as Iris gris, a case of a trademarked name bought by someone else). I have not had the chance to smell that, but Luca Turin spoke highly of it. I have smelled the Osmotheque reconstruction of the parfum and it is indeed gorgeous. Deep and dark, but balanced by a bit of sweet peach (the Iris de Fath above did not use the Osmotheque formula, which cannot be divulged)

    Given the price of that, I am however happy with the irises I have, like Le Labo iris or some Chanels (La Pausa).
    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Iris Question

    ISM is different - but still good. Maybe not "as" good, but that's subjective. When I smell it, I can still immediately identify it.

    BTW - ISM is currently available in a "travel" spray. Much cheaper than the bell jar alternative.

    Other suggestions
    -Glossier "You" (very affordable)
    -Chanel 28 La Pausa (the most natural iris I've encountered)
    -Guerlain Apres l'Ondee (not toally centered on iris, but it's there)

    I've not tried, but apparently Aedes Iris Nazarena is a stunner. If you're into niche/artisinal stuff, the latest Guide by Turin & Sanchez has a lot of new iris scents that I had never heard of.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Iris Question

    T'is a moreish note - I never really consciously was aware of it until I tried Dior Homme. Addictive stufff!
    Currently wearing: Bel Ami by Hermès

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    For some very strange reason, I have lost all interest in my typically animalic scents and have fallen in love with IRIS, a note I paid not one tiny whit of attention to in the past.
    I am Onda, and I am holding out my welcoming arms in a gesture of sad, sympathetic understanding to Siberian Musk, Cuir de Russie, and Koh-i-Noor as they enter our little Corner of the Abandoned. Yes, my darlings, I too know how it feels to be cast aside like a squeezed lemon.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Thanks so much for these replies!

    I have samples ordered of Iris 39, L'attesa, and La Pausa. (I'm definitely intrigued by Iris Nazarena, but I can't find samples anywhere. Has it been discontinued?)

    I do have a sample of Iris Poudre, but it's just not quite "irisy" enough for me.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I am Onda, and I am holding out my welcoming arms in a gesture of sad, sympathetic understanding to Siberian Musk, Cuir de Russie, and Koh-i-Noor as they enter our little Corner of the Abandoned. Yes, my darlings, I too know how it feels to be cast aside like a squeezed lemon.
    HA!! I am sure I will someday return to my squeezed-out lemons. But for now, it is just iris and me--wheee!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Hermessence Iris Ukioye
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Irisoir by Sultan Pasha is the best iris I've ever encountered in my short fragrance career.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Iris Question

    i have never been that into iris fragrances. not that i dont like them, just havent given them a lot of attention. this spring when digging in my garden i accidentally chopped one one my iris rhizomes in half so i figured what the heck lets get a whiff of what raw iris root smells like. Wow - really nice actually. going to have to explore the note further i think.

    the two iris based fragrances i have tried - irisoir and sohan d'iris both by Sultan Pasha - were both ones that were nice but ultimately not something i would purchase. with sohan d'iris i got too much honey and irisoir was just a little to feminine for me to pull off i think. Actually gave the rest of that one to my wife as i think it will smell wonderful on her.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    To me, iris perfumes are either "straightforward" where it's mostly iris (example ISM) or "iris & more" where there are other stuff going on (example Dior Homme Intense or Cuir Ottoman). In general I much prefer the latter category because the former ones bore me. In the former category I'd say ISM or Iris Cendre are quite good, though I like Iris 39 as well (Iris 39 is probably more in the middle of the two categories). In the latter category some of my favourite are Prada's Infusion d'Iris Cedre, Dior Homme Intense, Bois d'Argent, Dzongkha (this one grew on me); though I doubt very much you'd like any of these.

    I'd suggest 31 Rue Cambon, Iris de Nuit (warning - somewhat weak, needs to be massively oversprayed like most others from Heeley), and Infusion d'Iris. I've tried Le Cri de la Lumiere (latter category) which got 5 stars from Luca Turin, but I didn't think much of it (review posted). La Pausa is a good one, I like it almost as much as 31 Rue Cambon but I think the latter is better.

    I haven't tried Irisss, Iris Nazarena or Iris Bleu Gris. I have a sample of Feu Secret somewhere but cannot find it.

    Edit: I forgot another top-shelf favourite in the "iris & more" camp - an earlier EdP (mid 2000s ?) bottle of L'Heure Bleue.
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Wow. Now I need to try Irisoir and Iris Cendre and Infusion d'Iris.

    What I really wish is that I could get my hands on some vintage ISM, but I think that's as likely as finding some Fath.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I assume there are no samples of Iris Nazarena because it is quite expensive and from a small brand.

    I tried it and it is indeed very good, not so much for the iris, but it's the combination of dry tobacco and iris. Surprisingly successful, sort of a dry, traditional masculine. Unfortunately, it doesn't last much on me, at least, not enough to justify the high price. But I should perhaps retest.

    cacio

  15. #15

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I assume there are no samples of Iris Nazarena because it is quite expensive and from a small brand.

    I tried it and it is indeed very good, not so much for the iris, but it's the combination of dry tobacco and iris. Surprisingly successful, sort of a dry, traditional masculine. Unfortunately, it doesn't last much on me, at least, not enough to justify the high price. But I should perhaps retest.

    cacio
    You can get a $5 sample of Iris Nazarena at Aedes.com
    How do you know what a French whorehouse smells like?

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    --which iris fragrance do you think is the ultimate?

    Thank you in advance for any IRIS-related thoughts you might have!
    One I very much enjoy is Iris Celadon by Armani Prive
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Iris and animalic notes actually go fantastically well together. Under My Skin by Francesca Bianchi features a combination of iris and subtle animalic notes that form a sensual and complex skin scent, and Slumberhouse New Sibet shares many of its notes but goes for a much more austere and ethereal effect. The tragically discontinued Auphorie Binturong isn’t iris dominant, but used iris to great effect to smooth out a heavy, animalic/oriental/gourmand base.

    DSH Memory & Desire no. 1 is a wonderful, quite unusual iris-forward fragrance that I rarely see discussed, one of my favorites thus far.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Help!.....
    I also invested (and 'invested' is definitely the right word here) in a decant of Xerjoff's Irisss. Whoo boy, is it gorgeous. I am spending today desperately trying NOT to grab my credit card.
    My questions are these:
    --has ISM been reformulated into a mere shadow of itself?
    --is L'Attesa a worthy replacement for the Irisss?
    --which iris fragrance do you think is the ultimate?

    Thank you in advance for any IRIS-related thoughts you might have!
    I also have a small amount of Irisss (wish I'd bought more, as it was half-price), which I hoard for special occasions.
    If you can find it (disco'd not too long ago), I recommend Prada Infusion d'Iris Parfum Absolue (gold-top bottle, gold label) as an acceptable Irisss substitute, for the opening, definitely, though the drydown is not quite the same.
    I would like to find a sample of the original ISM, or even a UK split of the current version. Testers crop upon Fragrancenet occasionally.
    Spring/early summer rotation : Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge L'Eau; Etro Palais Jamais, Shaal Nur, Dianthus and Gomma; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling and Blenheim Bouquet; Comme des Garcons Zagorsk and Avignon; Dior Fahrenheit; and L.T. Piver Heliotrope

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Another vote for 28 La Pausa, which - though the EDT doesn't have the longevity I'd like - is wonderful and smells like a gardenful of iris (I don't know what the EDP smells like). Cuir de Lancome is another gorgeous one with a generous amount of iris.

    I like Irisss, but it fades very quickly for me - not worth its enormous price. Maybe your decant was from a better-kept bottle.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Another vote for 28 La Pausa, which - though the EDT doesn't have the longevity I'd like - is wonderful and smells like a gardenful of iris (I don't know what the EDP smells like). Cuir de Lancome is another gorgeous one with a generous amount of iris.

    I like Irisss, but it fades very quickly for me - not worth its enormous price. Maybe your decant was from a better-kept bottle.
    I tend to spray onto my clothing, so I guess this is why I'm getting better longevity? (It's certainly not loud, though.)

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Is the La Pausa better in the EDT or the EDP?

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I would not recommend you any iris I didn’t knowingly love myself a gazillion times over.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    I tend to spray onto my clothing, so I guess this is why I'm getting better longevity? (It's certainly not loud, though.)
    Oh, okay...I'm going to try that.

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Starblind-

    I think I've been on an iris quest for years now. I've tried many iris perfumes, but my ultimate iris is still vintage No. 19 parfum and vintage EDT. Good luck with your search.

    I hate to say this, since it's discontinued, but is there any chance your unlabeled sample could be Te Peradam? It might be the best modern iris plus sandalwood that I've tried.

    I did not get much iris out of L'Attesa. It smelled like cardboard to me, and not at all like Irisss, which I thought was very beautiful but perhaps a bit too simple of a concept for the dizzying price.

    I've also enjoyed testing ISM, Feu Secret, MPG Iris Bleu Gris, Iris de Nuit, Iris 39, Impossible Iris

    Did not enjoy New Sibet, Iris Cendre, Bois de Iris, Terre d'Iris, No. 19 Poudre, Cuir Ottoman.

    La Pausa EDT and Hiris disappeared on me in minutes.

    I love Cuir de Lancome but I don't think of it as an iris perfume.
    Currently wearing: Diorling by Christian Dior

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I love Cuir de Lancome but I don't think of it as an iris perfume.
    It's saffron-heavy, with orris in the base - I detect a lovely iris note, but you're right that it's not an iris perfume, per se.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Irisoir by Sultan Pasha is the best iris I've ever encountered in my short fragrance career.
    This and Thebes 1&2, time to wave that credit card!
    Slumberhouse' New Sibet (may it's soul rest in peace) is a masterpiece Iris as well, and it's like sitting in a goat herders house in Scotland so you get the best of both worlds

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    I agree with grayspoole about the dearly departed The Peradam by Apoteker Tepe. Absolutely gorgeous iris sandalwood. I am also a fan of Iris Nazarena, Iris Cendre, ISM, Dzongkha, Cuir Ottoman, Cuir Velours, Iris Ganache, Bois d’Iris and many others. I didn’t care for L’Attesa as it smelled yeasty on me.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Starblind-

    I think I've been on an iris quest for years now. I've tried many iris perfumes, but my ultimate iris is still vintage No. 19 parfum and vintage EDT. Good luck with your search.

    I hate to say this, since it's discontinued, but is there any chance your unlabeled sample could be Te Peradam? It might be the best modern iris plus sandalwood that I've tried.

    I did not get much iris out of L'Attesa. It smelled like cardboard to me, and not at all like Irisss, which I thought was very beautiful but perhaps a bit too simple of a concept for the dizzying price.

    I've also enjoyed testing ISM, Feu Secret, MPG Iris Bleu Gris, Iris de Nuit, Iris 39, Impossible Iris

    Did not enjoy New Sibet, Iris Cendre, Bois de Iris, Terre d'Iris, No. 19 Poudre, Cuir Ottoman.

    La Pausa EDT and Hiris disappeared on me in minutes.

    I love Cuir de Lancome but I don't think of it as an iris perfume.
    Thank you so much for this comprehensive look at the irises you've tried!

    You know, I think I need to explore No. 19 again. I tried it once years ago before I really knew much, perfume-wise, and I somehow passed over it in my love for CdR and BdI.
    A vintage version of the extrait sounds really nice, right now. (And it surely couldn't cost as much as the Irisss!)

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Iris Question

    Quote Originally Posted by cazaubon View Post
    I agree with grayspoole about the dearly departed The Peradam by Apoteker Tepe. Absolutely gorgeous iris sandalwood. I am also a fan of Iris Nazarena, Iris Cendre, ISM, Dzongkha, Cuir Ottoman, Cuir Velours, Iris Ganache, Bois d’Iris and many others. I didn’t care for L’Attesa as it smelled yeasty on me.

    You know, I had one other Apoteker Tepe sample, so the iris one might also have been from them. Argh!

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    Default Re: Iris Question

    As I haven’t tried Irisss, Lutens Iris Silver Mist would probably be my ultimate iris, but it was a bit much for me. Intellectually stimulating to smell, but not something I could wear.

    Favorite iris scents are
    La Pausa (I’ve only tried the EdT) which is a breezy, clean iris. Infusion d’Iris is also very good and in a similar ballpark.
    Orris & Sandalwood by Jo Malone is a simple composition of iris, violet and sandalwood that I enjoy.
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    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
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