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  1. #1
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    I have too little experience with real oud to tell. So far all the "real" oud I've smelled are rather challenging, while Oud Ispahan is quite...smooth. Is it because Dior uses different oud, or didn't use natural oud at all?

    I have the same question about MFK's oud mood series. They're all very pleasant and smooth. Do they use the real thing?
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    My guess in both cases would be probably not. The smoothness you are experiencing is probably due to how it is has been blended with the other accords
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  3. #3
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    My guess in both cases would be probably not. The smoothness you are experiencing is probably due to how it is has been blended with the other accords
    That makes sense.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    i think in those cases they are blending a bunch of notes to give the imitation of oud. hence the smoothness. no expert but it definitely doesnt smell like authentic oud to me.

  5. #5
    Dependent crashtestbrummie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Oud can be smooth though - lush use real oudh [sic] oil in some of their products. Think it might depend on how the oud is used (as in method of extraction etc), but I'm no expert on this.

  6. #6
    Super Member oudaddict's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    It's highly unlikely that Dior uses real oud, the oud in OI angels of the generic synthetic type that you find in many designer oud fragrances.

    The oud in MFK's line smells more authentic especially Cashmere Mood which smells like low grade Thai plantation oud, but we all know of Francis' love of using synthetics. I think if they used real oud then they would use it as a big selling point and boast about it like Fragrances du Bois.

    Or, instead of speculating we could just ask Dior and MFK and see what they say. The problem is we will never know the quantity of the oud used even if they claim it is natural.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Check out Rasasi Boruzz Rooh Al Assam.

    Oud Ispahan on steroids...and more natural too.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Definitely a synthetic oud, though I can't test to see which one. I did like the firmenich one over the givaudan

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Likely synthetic due to the quantities they produce.
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  10. #10
    Super Member wildrnesxperienc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Seems like I have read the MFK claims to use real Oud. If it’s true the Oud accords in his fragrances are probably something like .001% real and 99.999% synthetic. One drop of real Oud in a 55 gallon drum and they can say they use real Oud.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Seems like I have read the MFK claims to use real Oud. If it’s true the Oud accords in his fragrances are probably something like .001% real and 99.999% synthetic. One drop of real Oud in a 55 gallon drum and they can say they use real Oud.
    I’ve seen this claim as well. Supposedly he uses Laotian oud in his own line and in the Oud he created for Elie Saab. But yeah, I would imagine it’s not in significant quantities.

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  12. #12
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    MFK is very synthetic.

    I will admit that Cashmere Mood does smell good though.

    There was a thread not too long back that mentioned the brands that are using real oud.

  13. #13
    Dependent saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Like others, I think it must be synthetic. What's more, to my nose it smells very close to (if not the same as) the oud accord used in Leather Oud. The latter is supposed to evoke the scent of burning oud chips rather than oud oil.
    Last edited by saminlondon; 13th June 2019 at 04:39 PM.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by crashtestbrummie View Post
    Oud can be smooth though - lush use real oudh [sic] oil in some of their products. Think it might depend on how the oud is used (as in method of extraction etc), but I'm no expert on this.
    Agreed - or Ensar Oud Dhul Q, or Xerjoff Kampuchea Noir.
    I believe Lush typically utilise oud as a fixative rather than to impart fragrance. At least with Cardamom Coffee, which I used to own a bottle of, there was no notable oudy fragrance despite it being listed in the notes.

    Edit: I'm with the majority; it's most likely synthetic but there could be some minute proportion of real oud added if they're claiming there's 'natural oud' involved.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by Benz3ne View Post
    Agreed - or Ensar Oud Dhul Q, or Xerjoff Kampuchea Noir.
    I believe Lush typically utilise oud as a fixative rather than to impart fragrance. At least with Cardamom Coffee, which I used to own a bottle of, there was no notable oudy fragrance despite it being listed in the notes.

    Edit: I'm with the majority; it's most likely synthetic but there could be some minute proportion of real oud added if they're claiming there's 'natural oud' involved.
    Yeah, I would agree that Cardamom Coffee isn't an oudy perfume. Wouldn't real oud oil be a rather expensive option to function solely as a fixative though? I know that Lush advertise Goddess as an "oudh perfume" specifically and it does have a more oudy feel to it.

    I think if Dior used real oud in any of their perfumes then they would be shouting about it. It's not necessarily a bad thing if a synthetic option is used, of course - after all, how many rose or iris fragrances use naturals for the note?

    Boss Bottled Oud claims to use 100% natural oud but then says it's combined with "saffron, cinnamon and virile woody notes" and I'm assuming that the woody notes are providing most of the '"oud" flavour.

  16. #16
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    It has been a while since I’ve smelled it, but IIRC it uses the same “oud” as leather oud, which is Givaudan’s Black Agar
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...ivco-2152.aspx
    This is a resinous, woody accord, almost reminiscent of patchouli because of its earthiness. It tried to simulate the smell of the resin, or of agarwood chips or agarwood chips being fumigated. It’s very noticeable as a common note in Oud Wood, Songe d’un Bois d’Ete, and Leather Oud, amongst others.

    The other major oud accord is firmenisch’s, which approximates the smell of oud oil, with its medicinal, petrol like aspects. Pretty much all perfumes use this, with other notes added to try and make them seem more real or more like a certain type of oud (by adding skanky notes, etc. ). Sometimes they are blended with some real oud as well because they allow a more consistent result (R’Oud Elements contains both real and synthetic oud apparently).

    There is also ethically sourced plantation oud, but it seems to lack the richness and depth of wild harvested oud. When perfumes use real oud, even the plantation stuff, they usually make a big deal about it. Wonderoud boasts of using plantation oud, but it’s not particularly impressive compared to the oud oils I’ve smelled. They might as well have used synthetics

    its worth noting that perfumers could use a minuscule amount of real oud (and the quality of that could be total crap too) and still be able to claim a scent contains real oud. Once they have that tiny amount in there they can let synthetics do all of the actual work of trying to smell like oud. I try not to get concerned about whether real oud is used, and just focus on whether I like the scent. I work on the assumption that just about all perfumes only use synthetics, apart from certain high priced niche like a couple of Malle’s releases, and certain artisanal small batch producers.
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  17. #17
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    It has been a while since I’ve smelled it, but IIRC it uses the same “oud” as leather oud, which is Givaudan’s Black Agar
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...ivco-2152.aspx
    This is a resinous, woody accord, almost reminiscent of patchouli because of its earthiness. It tried to simulate the smell of the resin, or of agarwood chips or agarwood chips being fumigated. It’s very noticeable as a common note in Oud Wood, Songe d’un Bois d’Ete, and Leather Oud, amongst others.

    The other major oud accord is firmenisch’s, which approximates the smell of oud oil, with its medicinal, petrol like aspects. Pretty much all perfumes use this, with other notes added to try and make them seem more real or more like a certain type of oud (by adding skanky notes, etc. ). Sometimes they are blended with some real oud as well because they allow a more consistent result (R’Oud Elements contains both real and synthetic oud apparently).

    There is also ethically sourced plantation oud, but it seems to lack the richness and depth of wild harvested oud. When perfumes use real oud, even the plantation stuff, they usually make a big deal about it. Wonderoud boasts of using plantation oud, but it’s not particularly impressive compared to the oud oils I’ve smelled. They might as well have used synthetics

    its worth noting that perfumers could use a minuscule amount of real oud (and the quality of that could be total crap too) and still be able to claim a scent contains real oud. Once they have that tiny amount in there they can let synthetics do all of the actual work of trying to smell like oud. I try not to get concerned about whether real oud is used, and just focus on whether I like the scent. I work on the assumption that just about all perfumes only use synthetics, apart from certain high priced niche like a couple of Malle’s releases, and certain artisanal small batch producers.
    +1

    Good stuff to know. I much prefer the resinous stuff from Givaudan to the more medicinal types. A good skanky or 'blue cheese' oudy smell is also preferable to those medicinal ouds, at least it is for me.
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by 911LambMelb View Post
    Check out Rasasi Boruzz Rooh Al Assam.

    Oud Ispahan on steroids...and more natural too.
    Or 'Oud Touch' by Franck Olivier which is very similar and an excellent fragrance that is very low priced.

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  19. #19
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    It has been a while since I’ve smelled it, but IIRC it uses the same “oud” as leather oud, which is Givaudan’s Black Agar
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...ivco-2152.aspx
    This is a resinous, woody accord, almost reminiscent of patchouli because of its earthiness. It tried to simulate the smell of the resin, or of agarwood chips or agarwood chips being fumigated. It’s very noticeable as a common note in Oud Wood, Songe d’un Bois d’Ete, and Leather Oud, amongst others.

    The other major oud accord is firmenisch’s, which approximates the smell of oud oil, with its medicinal, petrol like aspects. Pretty much all perfumes use this, with other notes added to try and make them seem more real or more like a certain type of oud (by adding skanky notes, etc. ). Sometimes they are blended with some real oud as well because they allow a more consistent result (R’Oud Elements contains both real and synthetic oud apparently).

    There is also ethically sourced plantation oud, but it seems to lack the richness and depth of wild harvested oud. When perfumes use real oud, even the plantation stuff, they usually make a big deal about it. Wonderoud boasts of using plantation oud, but it’s not particularly impressive compared to the oud oils I’ve smelled. They might as well have used synthetics

    its worth noting that perfumers could use a minuscule amount of real oud (and the quality of that could be total crap too) and still be able to claim a scent contains real oud. Once they have that tiny amount in there they can let synthetics do all of the actual work of trying to smell like oud. I try not to get concerned about whether real oud is used, and just focus on whether I like the scent. I work on the assumption that just about all perfumes only use synthetics, apart from certain high priced niche like a couple of Malle’s releases, and certain artisanal small batch producers.
    That’s very helpful!!!!!
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  20. #20
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    +1

    Good stuff to know. I much prefer the resinous stuff from Givaudan to the more medicinal types. A good skanky or 'blue cheese' oudy smell is also preferable to those medicinal ouds, at least it is for me.
    The firmenich one isn’t inherently skanky. I think of it like the oil, chemical smell from Montales. How either is used is then up to the perfumer. The Firmenich can have an interesting smoothing effect giving what i can only describe as a roundness. Whether skankier or woodier elements, etc. are also added to give the illusion of more real, or different types of ouds is due to the perfumer. For example, Oud Palao and Leather Oud use Black Agar, but also give it some skankier elements. In Oud Wood Black Agar is very clean. Jo Malone’s Oud & Bergamot is almost purely Black Agar, and has no skank. Just earthy woods. It also gives me anosmia very quickly, so I do better with one spray than three.
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    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Seems like I have read the MFK claims to use real Oud. If it’s true the Oud accords in his fragrances are probably something like .001% real and 99.999% synthetic. One drop of real Oud in a 55 gallon drum and they can say they use real Oud.
    This.
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Quote Originally Posted by jkonick View Post
    I’ve seen this claim as well. Supposedly he uses Laotian oud in his own line and in the Oud he created for Elie Saab. But yeah, I would imagine it’s not in significant quantities.
    Laotian Oud, that's correct, probably in very low quantities, and with a strong support of aromachemicals that supposedly simulate oud. Furthermore, there are many qualities of oud.

    The only brand to be clear on that is Tiziana Terenzi, who admits to be using - most of the time - buaya oud oil (aka white oud), that is technically not even extracted from the Aquilaria tree. I suspect a lot of brands to be using just a drop of this low quality oud when stating that they use "real oud oil".
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    As I understand, wild oud can be quite variable in nature, which would argue against it's significant usage in fragrances which hope to maintain any level of consistency over a period of time.

    It may be different with plantation grown material though ?

    One does wonder where the majority of these materials end up these days.
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