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  1. #1
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    Default Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    In the post about study suggestions Ivor Joedy mentioned the book
    Quote Originally Posted by Ivor Joedy View Post
    "Brigitte Brutigam: Natrliches Parfum selbst gemacht. ISBN-13: 978-3730602010" with about 30 good and wearable recipes of Fougeres, Chypres, Colognes etc., based only on ca. a dozen natural raw materials.
    I thought I would take some of these formulas and corrupt them with synthetic ingredients. No particular purpose.

    Let's start with Niagara. The original formula (approximately):

    Bergamot 230
    Lavender 170
    Basil 150
    Petitgrain 125
    Clary sage 120
    Geranium 65
    Cistus 60
    Patchouly 40
    Tonka 40
    --------- ---------
    Total 1000

    I thought I'd twist it towards old school aromatic fougre.
    Corrupted formula:

    Niagara 380
    Habanolide 100
    Dihydromyrcenol 90
    Hedione 90
    alpha - Hexyl cinnamal 80
    Benzyl salicylate 80
    Hydroxycitronellal 40
    Lilial 30
    alpha - Methyl ionone 25
    Veramoss 25
    Cetalox 20
    Decanal 15
    Javanol 5
    Florhydral 5
    Indole @ 10% 10
    gamma - Undecalactone @ 5% 5
    --------- ---------
    Total 1000

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    Well, it will last a lot longer! :-)
    How is it?

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    How is it? Well, the original formula is pretty good actually. It is rough and doesn't last but the ingredients harmonise well and the structure is solid.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Member Ivor Joedy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    I have remixed Niagara, Zhenno, Darius and Primavera Toscana from Mrs. Brigitte Brutigam until now. I like Niagara, but it has gaps und edges.
    Mrs. Brutigam calculates, perhaps following Mandy Aftel, the essence being 80 drops of 0.025 ml per drop, which means total of 2 ml. The weight percentage depends on the specific gravity.

    Niagara (Brigitte Brutigam)

    HEAD: Bergamot (19 drops), Petitgrain (10), Basilicum (10)
    HEART: Lavender (12), Clary Sage (10), Geranium (5)
    BASE: Patchouli (3), Cistus (5), Tonka (6)


    I started my Perfume-Do by being tired of Farinas, both the "Gegenber" and "Roger & Gallet". I exchanged some emails with Mrs. Brutigam, as I understood her she mentioned, that she was in the Farina museum and intended to recreate something being closer to the "Italian spring morning" and called it "Primavera Toscana. I recreated Primavera Toscana. Like Farina Gegenber, it ist more of a perfume as a cologne - but I can confirm, it is great! And yes, it lasts not long.


    Primavera Toscana (Brigitte Brutigam)

    HEAD: Bergamot (14 drops), Lemon (10), Grapefruit (7), Lime (7), Ornage (3)
    HEAD to HEART: Roman Chamomile (3)
    HEART: Lavender (5), Broom (5), Neroli (14)
    HEART to BASE: Iris root (1), Elemi (1), Narcissus (Daffodil) (3), Mimosa (2)
    BASE: Cistus (1), Calamus (Acorus) (1)

    https://www.beautykosmos.com/t36770f...on_userprofile
    Last edited by Ivor Joedy; 27th June 2019 at 10:05 AM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    I really like that exercise Xii, a total synth interpretation. Perhaps once you get your structure tuned, you could add traces of some of the naturals back in and have a stellar perfume. Sometimes I wonder if this is how JCE formulated while at Hermes, except I'm sure he wrote out the majority from the beginning.


  6. #6
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    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    It's probably a bit confusing. I blended the original formula and then used it at 38% in the second.
    I'll post a nearly synth version of one of the Brigitte Brutigam's formulas (Calimbao) once I finish exploring it.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Member Ivor Joedy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brigitte Brutigam: Niagara - Fougre-Citrus

    Quote Originally Posted by runstile View Post
    I really like that exercise Xii, a total synth interpretation
    I am following a similar idea in the opposite direction. My next project will be Ormonde Jayne Woman.
    Last edited by Ivor Joedy; 27th June 2019 at 10:04 AM.




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