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  1. #1
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    Default Different versions of Mitsouko

    I was talking with Juxtapozbliss about different versions of Guerlain Mitsouko, and we decided the subject needed a thread. The idea is to get Jux his ideal bottle.

    As of the time of writing, I have tried:

    1. Vintage edc (from LiveJazz)
    2. Vintage (90s) edt (shown below)
    3. Vintage edp (from Tdem)
    4. A modern, orange-ish version (from Zephyr1973, I think)

    I have a little, 8-ml parfum on the way, but from Russia, so it could take a couple months.

    The basic structure of the fragrance works so well for me (built on oak moss), the concentration doesn't seem to matter. For the bottle I have, it's beautiful for the first hour, and then a fairly quiet skin scent. It still smells great up close hours later. I'm happy with it. I might have found the version from LiveJazz, in Blind Sample Pass II, an edc, even more interesting - but largely the same thing. The edp is also great - beautiful oak moss in the sample I have - almost peppery.

    Attachment 104850

  2. #2

    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I'm very interested to hear others perspective on the different concentrations. I loved the sample from the Blind Sample Pass 2, but it's not as easy to find as some of the other concentrations. I'm very curious to hear other's perspectives on how they compare.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I don't know if there's a version I don't like of those made before @ 2005 (and my dislike of the modern versions is admittedly an inability to not compare them to what I have known all my life) but I definitely prefer mid 70s to late 80s/early 90s parfums and Parfum de toilettes/edps. The colognes and edts are nice, especially for layering, but for me, they are less rounded and full than the extrait/pdts. I don't do well with describing what thrills me about Mitsouko Parfum (and PDT/EDP) in words - it's the oakmoss, the peach, the bergamot in the opening; the spice, the woody gingerbready vetiver floral not floral everything.
    We lost everything to fire in 2010 (though some of my perfumes were in storage as I had only just moved - my most worn were lost) and the second thing I replaced was Mitsouko extrait. If I knew I could only have one bottle, as was the case from the end of the 70s until around 2006 while raising my herd of children, I would have an edp or pdt.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I'm always interested in discussing Mitsouko! Juxtapozbliss, you will have a lot of information to think about...

    Mitsouko EDT 2004, spray
    My first bottle of Mitsouko, blind bought, as usual. At first, I found Mitsouko to be...a bit odd. I love chypres, love oakmoss, but there was something about Mitsouko that surprised and unsettled me. It had a vaguely "medicinal" quality, probably due to the combination of cloves, tarragon, and ?, that had to learn to appreciate. I don't think this 2004 EDT is more "medicinal" than any other version, but I haven't really analyzed it. This version lasts all day, and the sillage can be rather wide.

    Mitsouko parfum 1984 splash
    Mitsouko parfum 2002 splash

    The parfum may be my preferred version of Mitsouko, worn as a cool weather, serious perfume. The incense-y qualities are brought out by this formulation. I tell myself that the 1984 parfum is better than the 2002, but really they're both good.

    Mitsouko EDC 1960-67 splash
    I really liked the EDC in Live Jazz's Blind Sampling pass, so I found myself an EDC too. I decant some into an atomizer, and I wear it quite often. The EDC brings out the bergamot in the top notes. It's a casual, easy to wear Mitsouko.

    I've never tried Mitsouko in either the EDP or the PDT formulations--something to look forward to!
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I definitely should revisit this classic!
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Aaand I'm going to wear the EDC later today.

    Unfortunately, I haven't smelled any other vintage concentrations of Mitsy, and my last experience with the modern EDP was years ago.

    From my (very vague) memory, that EDP didn't seem nearly as bright, which aligns with grayspoole on the EDC's bergamot presence. And it felt much more...veiled? Muted? Earthy, damp. And I recall a stronger yeasty/bready component, but I'm not 100% sure about that. I respected the structure, but it seemed to dour to me at the time. Could be I just wasn't ready for it yet. This was before I'd tried the EDC.

    The EDC has a lovely brightness but still with Mitsouko's signature earthy/clovey/bready floral cyphre feel. Anyway, when I first smelled it, I felt the EDC was exactly the treatment Mitsouko needed, and contented myself with it.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by Zephyr1973 View Post
    I definitely should revisit this classic!
    Do you want some of this vintage edp and some of the 90s edt?

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I do not like the oak moss substitute in the more modern, peach-colored juice. I'm sensitive to it. Hopefully the latest versions are back to smelling more like vintage?

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I'm bit confused as the what this orange-coloured juice might be. Do you have any ideas? I don't think I'd describe any of my various vintages and concentrations as orange.

    Since it hasn't had a mention yet, I'd like to point that the current EdT is pretty darn good: fresh, sparkling bergamot, dry vetiver and a convincingly mossy base that's pretty close to vintage in my view.

    My old PdT is the spiciest and pepperiest. Put hairs on your chest, that stuff will.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko


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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I haven't smelled any mitsouko juice pre-dating 2000. Id be interested in hearing your guy's opinions. So far I've been amazed by earlier formulations of many of the other Guerlain classics.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    I'm bit confused as the what this orange-coloured juice might be. Do you have any ideas? I don't think I'd describe any of my various vintages and concentrations as orange..
    I'm wondering about this too. How does that sample smell? Is it a parfum sample? My vintage Mitsouko parfums are amber-gold (I'm not a fan of darkened vintage parfum) and my vintage EDT and EDC are yellow

    Bavard, you reference "more modern, peach colored juice" but the current EDP's and EDT's look golden yellow to me in the ads.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I'm wondering about this too. How does that sample smell? Is it a parfum sample? My vintage Mitsouko parfums are amber-gold (I'm not a fan of darkened vintage parfum) and my vintage EDT and EDC are yellow

    Bavard, you reference "more modern, peach colored juice" but the current EDP's and EDT's look golden yellow to me in the ads.
    I think the sample is from Zephyr1973.

    It is definitely something much more modern smelling than oak-moss Mitsouko. I would guess it's an edt or edp.

    It matches with rumors I've read that Mitsouko quit smelling like oak moss for a while.

    I had no idea it was rare and mysterious!

    The coloring seems intentional to me.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    In a recent package from AnthonyDG I received a vintage PDT concentration, I'll give that a go.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Ah, a thread after my own heart lol. Will post more photos later when I’m home but currently have the following version:

    Edc tester circa 1960s
    Edt circa 1980s
    EdP circa 2010s

    Trouble is Guerlain has had quite a number of different packaging.

    Starblind’s rave review on the vintage parfum also got me seeking out a sample very recently. Unfortunately it was indeed holy grail material. I’m looking to find more if it is not too exhorbitantly priced. Perhaps I should try out the current parfum 1st before deciding if I must have the vintage.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Ah, a thread after my own heart lol. Will post more photos lat toer when Im home but currently have the following version:

    Edc tester circa 1960s
    Edt circa 1980s
    EdP circa 2010s

    Trouble is Guerlain has had quite a number of different packaging.

    Starblinds rave review on the vintage parfum also got me seeking out a sample very recently. Unfortunately it was indeed holy grail material. Im looking to find more if it is not too exhorbitantly priced. Perhaps I should try out the current parfum 1st before deciding if I must have the vintage.
    I know there are people who are pleased with the current parfum, and I am not one to insist that vintage is always superior (though for my personal tastes, that is generally the case - of course it is not surprising that one might prefer what they have loved most in their life with it's emotional weight, memory etc so there's that) but if you have tried vintage Mitsy parfum and found it hg, I think you will be let down by today's version. There's no doubt it's improved from what it was maybe 10 years ago, but it's lacking the oakmoss right off and it's hard to imagine not perceiving it as a weak sister if you've had the real lady grab your heart.

    You're in Singapore I see, and I don't know prices there, but in the U.S. you can get more vintage Mitsouko for less money with very little effort, particularly if you are not adverse to working with the HK estate sellers. My only advice for buying the vintage is that Mitsouko is one that can hold up well if sealed (or very well wrapped etc) and kept in the dark, the less air in the flacon the better - but if it's very dark, maybe even murky looking, it's not like Shalimar that is better as it gets darker. Mitsy that looks swampy in my experience is better left behind. If you can get a nice Bouchon Coeur or a sealed rosebud from the 70s or 80s (90s even too, til 95-ish) you are likely to be very pleased. I don't imagine it's easy to mail to Singapore from here? I'd be happy to send you a bit to hold you a while since I can't possibly live long enough to wear my board even if it was the only perfume I wore.


    It makes me happy to know that people still love Mitsouko. Now that my children are gone and I can afford a *few* more bottles of perfume than I had when raising them I don't wear it every week even - let alone 4 days of 7 or so on. It's still one of my desert island, grab it when the house is on fire perfumes though, despite a decade + of heartbreaking grief that started in 1999 with a bottle so shockingly not my Mitsouko that I returned it and thought I'd never have her again. Hurrah for the internet, both for it's information and the miraculous access to more or less all the perfumes that I would otherwise only have memories of.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    In a recent package from AnthonyDG I received a vintage PDT concentration, I'll give that a go.
    I think that I saw you had the PDT as your SOTD the other day, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it. =)

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    I'm getting a lot of good perfume energy from Pennsylvania recently.

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    It's still one of my desert island, grab it when the house is on fire perfumes
    Along with your scent of the day, Dior-Dior, I presume? Which others?

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    I know there are people who are pleased with the current parfum, and I am not one to insist that vintage is always superior (though for my personal tastes, that is generally the case - of course it is not surprising that one might prefer what they have loved most in their life with it's emotional weight, memory etc so there's that) but if you have tried vintage Mitsy parfum and found it hg, I think you will be let down by today's version. There's no doubt it's improved from what it was maybe 10 years ago, but it's lacking the oakmoss right off and it's hard to imagine not perceiving it as a weak sister if you've had the real lady grab your heart.

    You're in Singapore I see, and I don't know prices there, but in the U.S. you can get more vintage Mitsouko for less money with very little effort, particularly if you are not adverse to working with the HK estate sellers. My only advice for buying the vintage is that Mitsouko is one that can hold up well if sealed (or very well wrapped etc) and kept in the dark, the less air in the flacon the better - but if it's very dark, maybe even murky looking, it's not like Shalimar that is better as it gets darker. Mitsy that looks swampy in my experience is better left behind. If you can get a nice Bouchon Coeur or a sealed rosebud from the 70s or 80s (90s even too, til 95-ish) you are likely to be very pleased. I don't imagine it's easy to mail to Singapore from here? I'd be happy to send you a bit to hold you a while since I can't possibly live long enough to wear my board even if it was the only perfume I wore.


    It makes me happy to know that people still love Mitsouko. Now that my children are gone and I can afford a *few* more bottles of perfume than I had when raising them I don't wear it every week even - let alone 4 days of 7 or so on. It's still one of my desert island, grab it when the house is on fire perfumes though, despite a decade + of heartbreaking grief that started in 1999 with a bottle so shockingly not my Mitsouko that I returned it and thought I'd never have her again. Hurrah for the internet, both for it's information and the miraculous access to more or less all the perfumes that I would otherwise only have memories of.
    Thank you @theladymay for such a thoughtful response. Appreciate your generous offer for which I’m more than happy to compensate. I have received many fragrant parcels from US without any trouble. I guess Singapore is such a tiny place it’s impossible for the delivery guys to lose their way.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm getting a lot of good perfume energy from Pennsylvania recently.



    Along with your scent of the day, Dior-Dior, I presume? Which others?
    I do love Dior Dior but it wouldn't be on the what I can fit in my hands and bag in a hurry list. Well yeah maybe it would because I got lucky with what I have and couldn't expect to replace it. I'm coming up on having the opposite problem with it from the ordinary or more expected issue; I have a bit over 2 ounces of extrait but am down to maybe 1/2 oz off edt. I am spoiled now about being able to wear both strengths together with most of my favorites and I agree with whomever mentioned earlier in the thread that they would take the edt is forced to choose one with this fragrance. I feel like they were ideally meant to be worn together, like many vintages. My boss/perfume mentor in the 70s told me that was how a lady ought to best wear most perfumes. Of course she was wealthy enough to have a housekeeper (me) but still. I didn't love Dior Dior when I first wore it, but with further wearing it really grabbed me, very much like my experience with Parure; "Meh, what's the big deal here?" the first time turned into "Whoa, where did you come from, you can never leave me" at some point in a repeat wearing.

    So the grab it and go would probably be Dioressence, Shalimar, No. 22, Parure, some vtg Miss Dior, Miss Balmain, Chant d'Aromes, Opium. Parfum d'Hermes, L'Interdit, Ivoire, Michelle, Bois des Iles, Mitsouko, Coco, Rive Gauche. I can't take Mitsy and Shalimar and leave L'Heure Bleue. Sheherazade. Cinnabar. Byzance, Sonia Rykiel Le Parfum extrait, some unbelievably animalic and vintage smelling DSH extraits & Sultan Pasha's Resine Precieux and Incense Pure. And a bottle of Babe for pleasant cheap fragrance memories. Azuree, Estee Daytime Fragrance. Sortilege. Poison. Madame Rochas (unless there would be internet access because it would be easy to replace in that case) Au Coeur du Desert & MFK APLS to represent this century
    *also A tiny flacon of Audace and some Caleche or VC&A First for when I want the world or at least myself to recognize my inner bitch*

    I lost everything to freak floods twice and then fire in 2010 (not to mention that my father was taken in a house fire when I was 8 - fire is not my friend) We got out with our lives - only due to some brave and strong firefighters and there's nothing to complain about there. I don't think twice if the fire alarm goes off in our building, I'm out with my glasses and my bag (okay, I do have a few small extraits in it but the real reason I even grab that is for medications I need.) So I can't do the fire thing. But you can get a lot of extraits in your hands, pockets if you are so endowed, and bag if you're being exiled to a desert island. I'm not one of those ladies who puts things in her bra but for such an emergency I could make an exception. You'd want some sprays to get the radiance with your parfums, and really, Dior Dior does need to go too. And a bottle of Chantilly.



    I'm sorry for wandering off the subject of the thread, and for too many words.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    sorry for wandering off the subject
    Perfume recollections and discussion of other favorites from a Mitsouko wearer are on subject.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Hi TheLadyMay--

    It's so nice to see you posting here. I didn't know that real ladies were meant to wear the parfum and EDT together, but I do that sometimes with my vintage perfumes and I certainly do enjoy it, so perhaps I am a real lady after all!

    Did Mitsouko really go downhill as early as 1999?

    I'll have to give some thought to my What I Would Grab in a Fire"/Desert Island Vintage Perfume List. I would take most of the ones on your list, but I would have to make room for some No. 19, Vol de Nuit, Bandit, and Jolie Madame.
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    These are the ones in my collection:

    1960 parfum - very bad, all base and varnish.

    1977 parfum - divine, rich, deep and dimensional, a golden amber color (not orange, but I think amber might have been what Bavard referred to as "orange-y")

    1983 edt - spritely spiciness, a little less dense and long-lasting than pdt - sparkling and bright

    1990 PDT - also divine, approaching the richness of parfum

    2014 edp - very good, but I would never opt for it over any concentration of vintage

    2015 edp - awful. This was from Guerlain's notoriously bad batch (corrected and re-released in 2016)

    Longevity is good for all the ones I've listed. If I had to rank them, the 1977 parfum would be #1, then the 1990 PDT, and then the 1983 EDT.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    These are the ones I have smelled:

    1960 parfum - very bad, all base and varnish.

    1977 parfum - divine, rich, deep and dimensional, a golden amber color (not orange, but I think amber might have been what Bavard referred to as "orange-y")

    1983 edt - spritely spiciness, a little less dense and long-lasting than pdt - sparkling and bright

    1990 PDT - also divine, approaching the richness of parfum

    2014 edp - very good, but I would never opt for it over any concentration of vintage

    2015 edp - awful. This was from Guerlain's notoriously bad batch (corrected and re-released in 2016)

    Longevity is good for all the ones I've listed. If I had to rank them, the 1977 parfum would be #1, then the 1990 PDT, and then the 1983 EDT.
    Maybe the 1960 perfume deteriorated significantly? Was this from a sample or the actual bottle.

    I've sampled the PDT recently and it was very smooth and elegant, it made me think more highly of Mitsouko and the beauty behind vintage formulations and higher concentrations.

    1977 sounds very promising. I've seem to be more drawn to the higher concentration for the classics, I don't know if I'm the only one who feels that way.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    I think that I saw you had the PDT as your SOTD the other day, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it. =)

    I absolutely loved it. It was a total night and day experience after only smelling what was currently available in retails. I've only the smelled the modern EDT and EDP formulation and I felt a little bit underwhelmed by it overall. A bit powdery, a bit disjointed, and I didn't get that mossy drydown that I've experienced in a number of similar genre scents that were vintage formulations. One that comes to mind is Coty Chypre. Now smelling the PDT I could share a better appreciation for Mitsouko.
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Maybe the 1960 perfume deteriorated significantly? Was this from a sample or the actual bottle.
    It was a 1/4 oz bottle that had been badly stored, opened and clearly exposed to plenty of sunlight. Buying it was my worst rookie mistake, but at least it didn't cost much. A 1960s extrait, sealed and stored under good conditions, should smell great - I mentioned this bad one in my list for the sake of completeness. Caveat emptor - sealed bottles, preferably in boxes, from reliable sellers, is the optimal way to go with vintage.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    It was a 1/4 oz bottle that had been badly stored, opened and clearly exposed to plenty of sunlight. Buying it was my worst rookie mistake, but at least it didn't cost much. A 1960s extrait, sealed and stored under good conditions, should smell great - I mentioned this bad one in my list for the sake of completeness. Caveat emptor - sealed bottles, preferably in boxes, from reliable sellers, is the optimal way to go with vintage.
    There's a vintage parfum bottle up for sale in the sales thread. Did you see this one? The price doesn't seem to bad but my concern would be the air exposure and how it was kept.

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko


    http://www.luvparfum.com/cgi-bin/sea...=Guerlain&nh=2
    https://guerlainperfumes.blogspot.co...uko-c1919.html
    By appearance and comparison to other photos online, it's from at least the 1960s.
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  29. #29
    LittleBunnyFouFou
    theladymay's Avatar
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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    There's a vintage parfum bottle up for sale in the sales thread. Did you see this one? The price doesn't seem to bad but my concern would be the air exposure and how it was kept.

    If the rosebuds and the parapluies are not completely sealed or wrapped with parafilm, teflon tape, etc once opened they are prone to being unpleasant - especially the umbrellas with their little screw tops; frankly I wouldn't buy one for anything. I have had many of the rosebuds but I learned right off no matter how little it costs, no seal, broken or missing cord is a deal breaker for the Mitsouko flacon amphores unless it has a good golden color and comes from someone you actually truly know who assures you they only just opened it, or have kept it wrapped and boxed etc. If you know vintage Mitsouko well enough you might chance buying one at a very low price based on the color - but keep in mind that refillers have been known to target rosebud bottles which is why I don't sell my empties anymore. It kills me when certain sellers have say 10 flacons of vintage Shalimar, and 10 of Mitsouko, all open but full, full full!, pleasingly light gold or even pale yellow and a no sense at all story in their description about their aunt having owned them (sorry, I'm stone nuts but even I don't open 10 bottles of the same size and age extrait at the same time - and then never use a drop) or something equally shady.

    One more note or should I say opinion based on my experience.. even sealed well stored Mitsouko from before the early 70s is sometimes a disappointment. It absolutely seems to have a certain, more limited lifespan than many other parfums of the same age - definitely not like Shalimar for example which more often than not improves with age. I have had some pretty disappointing and unpleasant experiences with dark, oddly flat and swampy Mitsoukos from 50s, 60s and even a couple of those 70 screw top umbrella bottles (as well as some come to Jesus moments with other bottles from the same decades.) I had a girlfriend in the 90s who told me she didn't mind my Mitsouko for some reason but it was otherwise an awful perfume and she would know as she had a very expensive Baccarat Bouchon Coeur from her mother who had left it in the bathroom since the early 50s. When I heard where it lived for 40 years I had a clue what was coming, and then the bottle with tons of headspace and almost black ugly juice confirmed my fears. Good Lord, it was noxious; I don't think she ever really believed me when I told her that was *not* how it was supposed to smell, sigh.

  30. #30
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Different versions of Mitsouko

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    There's a vintage parfum bottle up for sale in the sales thread. Did you see this one? The price doesn't seem to bad but my concern would be the air exposure and how it was kept.

    Looks way too dark and sticky to me.




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