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  1. #1
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    So how do you define what is a "barbershop" fragrance?

    Within the purview of that definition, what are your favorite barbershop fragrances?

    I will give my 2 cents later on down the line!

    DISCUSS!
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Ok so thanks for starting this because this has always confused me. I’ll hear Rive Gauche being barbershop but to me it’s too heavy. Anise kills me in it and Clove doesn’t help

    To this day my ultimate barbershop where I feel I just got a haircut and smell great is

    Clubman Pinaud
    Last edited by ToughCool; 28th June 2019 at 12:18 PM.
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    I always think of aromatic fougere type fragrances, or your usual shaving type scents. My collection is easily dominated by the genre. Both because I really enjoy these types of fragrances, and because many can be had for not a lot of money.

    I am talking about things like Polo Green (the king IMO, although I do not own a full bottle yet), Stetson, Brut, Sung Homme, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Davidoff Champion, Royal Copenhagen, Coty Musk, Jovan Musk, Jovan Sex Appeal, Grey Flannel, and Old Spice.

    Personally, I also feel that Missoni Parfum Pour Homme leans in that direction, although most others seem to get a Bleu de Chanel vibe from it. I don't get that connection myself.

    I think Mancera Black Gold kinda leans in that direction as well, although I do not yet own a full bottle of it.

    Of course, not all the fragrances I have listed have the classic oakmoss and lavender combo that nearly defines barbershop fragrances. Some of them are just fragrances I think are popular in the wet shaving community, so I associate those fragrances with barbershop smells.

    Great thread topic, by the way. One of my favorite genres.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    For me, old style classic, powdery fougeres. the original fougere royale. Of current perfumes, perhaps 1725.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Kind of like the Supreme Court's old approach to defining obscenity ("I know it when I see it"), I find the category a bit hard to define. But I won't let that stop me from trying.

    Probably easiest to start with what they generally don't have: oriental bases (e.g., vanilla, amber, etc.), overly sweet notes, aquatic notes, or animalic/leather notes. Having said that, people could probably find examples of arguably "barbershop" scents that break those rules. But I'm speaking in generalities here.

    Basically, they share a set of characteristics that said "fresh" and "groomed" back in the days of straight-razor shaves in men's barbershops. Namely, certain combinations of citrus, spicy/aromatic notes (notably anise, clove, rosemary, lavender), powdery (as in talcum) notes, and dry-woody notes (like oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli). And maybe some "masculine" florals like geranium/rose and, again, lavender.

    The much shorter way to put it: smell Barbasol original shave cream and don't stray too far from its general feel.

    Azzaro Pour Homme is a favorite of mine and an exemplar of the genre. I also like Diptyque's Eau de Minthe, which I think qualifies as a modern barbershop fragrance.

    Edit: how could I forget bay rum? A classic barbershop fragrance that I've actually been doused in after getting a hair cut and a hot-towel neck shave. My favorite is probably St. John's.

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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    For me, principally an aromatic fougere. As for favorites, some have already been mentioned, but one for me in particular which I hold in high esteem is Programme Homme by Lancome.
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    For me, the answer is simple: It's the smell of getting a barbershop haircut. That's barbershop. Not just a haircut, but a traditional barbershop haircut. For me, if it ain't powdery, it ain't barbershop.

    The powdery aspects of 1725 remind me of that smell, for example.
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    My favorite barbershop fragrance is a cheapy by Royall Fragrances called Royall Muske.
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Lomani pour Homme

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    So how do you define what is a "barbershop" fragrance?
    For me lavender should be cast in one of the leading roles and it should remind me of a trip to the barber, or at least remind of shaving cream. Also a bit of an old school vibe seems to be part of the package but I realize that's kinda nebulous.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Within the purview of that definition, what are your favorite barbershop fragrances?
    if I'm reaching for a fougere, odds are in favor of it being one of these:

    Invasion Barbare
    Bracken
    Bois Du Portugal
    Fougere d'Argent

    but I like the genre in general and have several others I like a lot, just maybe not as much as the ones I mentioned.
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    I've asked myself this same question.

    I think we can agree it refers to old skool fougères of the kind that might have been splashed around after an old-fashioned shave, but the phrase is bandied about as if we were still living in the Fifties and being towelled up and tilted back on a regular basis.

    (As an aside, the word 'barbershop' sounds as mid-century American to me as soda fountains and drive-in cinemas. It's not something we'd ever say in the UK.)
    Last edited by saminlondon; 28th June 2019 at 12:08 PM. Reason: typo!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    There's definitely some good choices from Creed:

    Baie de Genièvre
    Bois du Portugal
    Vintage Tabarome
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    From a personal viewpoint alone, considering that a barbershop style scent can be built around or should contain a few basic, main note types with a fresh, clean, bracing, astringent, sometimes slightly powdery and usually classic/timeless gentlemanly effect, including:

    - eucalyptus/menthol (anything from the Proraso Green line, while among the pricier ones, Roadster and Creed Royal Mayfair are pricier and less literal renditions)

    - lavender (especially the classic male lavender notes of Caron pour un Homme, l'Occitan, even the EDT by Bluebeard's Revenge, to name only a few)

    - a combination between the aforementioned lavender with aniseed, cloves, even slight leathery notes in a very classic style (again, the selection can be highly diversified from Azzaro pour Homme, Sartorial to GFT Spanish Leather)

    - an even fresher clove/aniseed rendition (Rive Gauche pour Homme being a credible example)

    - a moderate to quite pronounced tobacco leaves component (CHH Tobacco, Tabac Original, Havana, Bogart Signature could qualify)

    - sandalwood and/or other woody notes overlapping with clean soapiness (as in R&G Open)

    - classic Bay Rum (Old Spice or even aforementioned Havana some of the most famous and bestselling, yet some bay rum brands with an even longer bay rum tradition continuously on the market) and classic EDC (anything from the brands with secular traditions like Farina Gegenüber, Acqua di Parma, Santa Maria Novella to far more modern, updated takes on this being noteworthy) formulations
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 28th June 2019 at 09:26 AM.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    I think it's rather subjective but here's my list:

    YSL Rive Gauche pour homme
    Azzaro Pour Homme
    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
    Cerruti 1881

    Could be but not necessarily list:

    JPG Le Male
    Prada Man
    Prada Luna Rossa Carbon
    Chanel Bleu de Chanel
    Dior Sauvage
    Last edited by Zgb; 28th June 2019 at 05:03 PM.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    for me Bay Leaf must be prominent
    Pinaud's Bay Rum a classic example .....................


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  16. #16
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    I've asked myself this same question.

    I think we can agree it refers to old skool fougères of the kind that might have been splashed around after an old-fashioned shave, but the phrase is bandied about as if we were still living in the Fifties and being towelled up and titled back on a regular basis.

    (As an aside, the word 'barbershop' sounds as mid-century American to me as soda fountains and drive-in cinemas. It's not something we'd ever say in the UK.)
    Sam, you've put it better than I ever could!
    I would just add that for me a true fougere/barbershop should always contain two notes: lavender and coumarin/tonka bean. Geranium perhaps should also be in there too.
    Without lavender, the aromatic nature of the genre is lost.

    Among my favourites in this area that are classics:
    Azzaro Pour Homme
    Cerruti 1881
    Creed GIT
    Nicolai New York Intense
    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
    RL Safari for Men
    YSL Rive Gauche pour homme
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  17. #17
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    There have been some really good answers so far, with scents like bay rum mentioned and the popular consensus of what defines a barbershop fougère being made quite clear by everyone here: lavender, tonka, and oakmoss or some synthetic proxy for those perfumers beholden to IFRA, sometimes combined with geranium, vanilla or spices like anise and clove (but not always).

    However, what about barbershop styles that aren't necessarily bay rum in origin or in the fougère realm? I believe there are a few, but they may not be universally known because they either belong in antiquity or seem to be region specific.

    I noticed there is a specific class of barbershop style that relies heavily on dry citrus like lemon or lime, something bracing like menthol or camphor, and something with a pencil shavings aromatic element like pine or black pepper. Scents like Pino SIlvestri, Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet, Avon Windjammer, L'Occitan by L'Occitane, etc. Sometimes they contain a fougère element like lavender or oakmoss, and sometimes they don't, but this ultra-dry and bracing style seems to have been a "thing" off and on in the barbershop realm.

    Another one I notice is an older powdery floral style predating fougères and all but gone to modern tastes, with scents like Caswell-Massey Jockey Club or Pinaud Lilac Vegetal falling into this category. Penhaligion's Zizonia could be another example of this, and it still feels like a barbershop kind of vibe, just without any of the core fougère elements.

    In conclusion, I think the barbershop style is extremely malleable, and everything from a classic Clubman-style fougère or something in the shave cream style like Azzzaro Pour Homme could work, all the way to a non-fougère dry lemony or minty/pine/powdery floral kind of deal like mentioned above, just so long as it feels like a clean shave.

    Once things get too animalic (like Kouros) or too aromatic (like Tsar), then the fougère becomes something other than clean and therefore something entirely unlike a barbershop in my opinion,


    Here are some of my favorites (most of them common):

    Clubman Pinaud (original)
    Canoe by Dana (original)
    Mennen Skin Bracer
    Azzaro Pour Homme
    Aqua Velva by WIlliams
    Avon Tai Winds
    Proraso (Green)
    American Crew (Classic)
    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
    Dirty by Gorilla Perfumes [Lush]
    MANDOM by Gatsby
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  18. #18

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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    I'd say your category of dry/lemon/pine is most associated with mediterranean countries (eg Italy), where it's hot and you really appreciate something fresh and dry. Not necessarily just barbershop per se, but simply traditional masculine grooming.

    cacio

  19. #19
    Dependent Danny Mitchell's Avatar
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    American Crew (Classic)
    ZC, is that the one that comes in the aerosol can type spray?
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    My dark-horse pick, and perhaps my personal favorite in this category, is vintage 1818 by Brooks Brothers -- and here the emphasis on vintage is unfortunately essential.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    My memories of how my barbershop of years passed smelled were of shave cream, powder, hair wax and leather. Now 50+ years later I still go an old school barbershop a thousand miles away from where I grew up. I'd say my current shop has a reformulated smell as the shave cream and leather scent is gone having been put on the restricted list by some unknown power. I own many of the mentioned fragrances and to me I really don't get the tie between them and my memories of how my barbershops smell. So I guess barbershop type fragrances are kind of an abstract representation of what the perfumer was trying create.

    I have two that come close, although one is supposed to smell like a tailor's shop, 1725 and Sartorial. Sartorial seems to be really similar to Pinaud Clubman after shave. The barbershop of my youth always had bottles of Clubman at every barber's chair.

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  23. #23

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    towelled up and tilted back
    Great album title.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by AlphaFrank75 View Post
    My memories of how my barbershop of years passed smelled were of shave cream, powder, hair wax and leather. Now 50+ years later I still go an old school barbershop a thousand miles away from where I grew up. I'd say my current shop has a reformulated smell as the shave cream and leather scent is gone having been put on the restricted list by some unknown power. I own many of the mentioned fragrances and to me I really don't get the tie between them and my memories of how my barbershops smell. So I guess barbershop type fragrances are kind of an abstract representation of what the perfumer was trying create.

    I have two that come close, although one is supposed to smell like a tailor's shop, 1725 and Sartorial. Sartorial seems to be really similar to Pinaud Clubman after shave. The barbershop of my youth always had bottles of Clubman at every barber's chair.
    Sartorial deodorant smells better than the cologne.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Tom Ford's Beau de Jour is quite nice I am a little surprised it is being discontinued so quickly. I know Tom Ford usually rapidly releases a half dozen or so scents and then only keeps one or two; I really thought Beau de Jour was one of them.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    For me, Pinaud Clubman is the sine qua non of three genre.

    Beyond that, it's a vague thing to determine, but most pre-1970s masculines could arguably fit into the category.
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  27. #27
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    https://www.tomford.com/beau-de-jour/8806609405.html
    https://www.luckyscent.com/product/6...-private-blend
    https://shop.nordstrom.com/s/tom-for...arfum/5164599?

    I don't think it's been discontinued yet. They had it in Saks and Norstrom last month, it's still on several sites. I'm sure it will be at some point...because it's Tom Ford...but sounds like a salesperson using the old it will be discontinued method to create a sense of urgency.

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Tom Ford's Beau de Jour is quite nice I am a little surprised it is being discontinued so quickly. I know Tom Ford usually rapidly releases a half dozen or so scents and then only keeps one or two; I really thought Beau de Jour was one of them.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    Quote Originally Posted by rynegne View Post
    https://www.tomford.com/beau-de-jour/8806609405.html
    https://www.luckyscent.com/product/6...-private-blend
    https://shop.nordstrom.com/s/tom-for...arfum/5164599?

    I don't think it's been discontinued yet. They had it in Saks and Norstrom last month, it's still on several sites. I'm sure it will be at some point...because it's Tom Ford...but sounds like a salesperson using the old it will be discontinued method to create a sense of urgency.
    Well they would still need to deplete existing stock; regardless, I am not sure where I read that on the internet and it could all be falsehood. I for one hope that it is not discontinued as it is too expensive for my tastes for a fougere, but if I can get 100ml for say $150 I would take that deal. Is there anything else like Beau de Jour ala Tom Ford Lavender Extreme and Caron Pour un Homme?

  29. #29
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    IMO there's no parallels between Beau de Jour and Lavender Extreme/CPuH.

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Well they would still need to deplete existing stock; regardless, I am not sure where I read that on the internet and it could all be falsehood. I for one hope that it is not discontinued as it is too expensive for my tastes for a fougere, but if I can get 100ml for say $150 I would take that deal. Is there anything else like Beau de Jour ala Tom Ford Lavender Extreme and Caron Pour un Homme?

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    the most high end "barbershop-ish" is Bogue Mem, which is more than barbershop of course -- but has a lot of lavender.




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