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Thread: Tiare accord

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  1. #1

    Default Tiare accord

    What would you say might go into a tiare (gardenia taitensis) accord? I have so far pulled hexyl salicylate, amyl salicylate, benzyl acetate, anthranilate, terpineol, methyl tuberate, ylang, ethyl vanilin.
    I should mention my experience with this flower is limited to the note I perceive in common with “tiare” perfumes and I imagine these are often influenced by sunscreen fragrances, or vice versa. I have not yet experienced the rare absolute or flower in person (a good excuse to go to the pacific islands, for research!)

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Honestly, I don't know the difference between a US garden Gardenia, and a Tahitian Gardenia Tiare.
    I have an impression that it might be more vanillic, but I certainly could be wrong.

    Do you have a basic Gardenia structural accord to reference?
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    I do have a basic gardenia accord, it seems that a tiare accord is hard to come by, unfortunately.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Tiare accord

    I have this tidbit of information specific to the Tiare Gardenia:

    "Tiare, the Queen of Polynesian flowers, is a striking, white, star-shaped flower that is actually a gardenia. It grows on a small shrub in the family Rubiaceae, a large family that also contains gardenia and coffee; Tiare is known as Gardenia Tahitensis. The scent of tiare flowers is described as reminiscent of both gardenia and tuberose, green with just a hint of apple blossom. "
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I have this tidbit of information specific to the Tiare Gardenia:

    "Tiare, the Queen of Polynesian flowers, is a striking, white, star-shaped flower that is actually a gardenia. It grows on a small shrub in the family Rubiaceae, a large family that also contains gardenia and coffee; Tiare is known as Gardenia Tahitensis. The scent of tiare flowers is described as reminiscent of both gardenia and tuberose, green with just a hint of apple blossom. "
    That’s not a bad description. Tiare is sweeter, and a little less blue-cheesy than the gardenias you typically find in the US. It doesn’t have the savoury elements that can characterize certain stages of a ripe gardenia. Plenty of indole, and has a slight coolness to the profile that is reminiscent of tuberose. As far as a scent profile goes, it’s somewhere between the fleshy richness of gardenia, the cool freshness of tuberose, and the soft indole of Egyptian jasmine. It’s somehow more approachable than all three. It has a definite tropical feel, with some of the butteriness of ylang, though with none of ylang’s banana elements.

    The link to the coffee plant makes complete sense in terms of the scent profile. I’ve always thought coffee blossoms smell like a very refined, soft jasmine.
    Chypreish”:
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    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  6. #6

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Great descriptions Paul and Lellabelle, thank you.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by farawayspices View Post
    What would you say might go into a tiare (gardenia taitensis) accord? I have so far pulled hexyl salicylate, amyl salicylate, benzyl acetate, anthranilate, terpineol, methyl tuberate, ylang, ethyl vanilin.
    I should mention my experience with this flower is limited to the note I perceive in common with “tiare” perfumes and I imagine these are often influenced by sunscreen fragrances, or vice versa. I have not yet experienced the rare absolute or flower in person (a good excuse to go to the pacific islands, for research!)
    Hi farawayspices, two other elements you would want are indole and gardenol. Indole will add the heady animalic aspect and the gardenol is a green note specific to gardenia (basically close enough to a tiare note).
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    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Tiare is macerated in coconut oil to make something called Monoï. I have read it's used as a natural remedy in Polynesia, and as treatment for sunburn. If it were just Gardenia tahitensis and coconut oil it could be a useful guide. Apparently, in French Polynesia Monoï is regulated by AOC (apelation d'origine contrôlée) like Champagne and Camembert and so the quality of a decent product should be good.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Gardener View Post
    Tiare is macerated in coconut oil to make something called Monoï. I have read it's used as a natural remedy in Polynesia, and as treatment for sunburn. If it were just Gardenia tahitensis and coconut oil it could be a useful guide. Apparently, in French Polynesia Monoï is regulated by AOC (apelation d'origine contrôlée) like Champagne and Camembert and so the quality of a decent product should be good.
    Good quality monoi is lovely stuff, and I always keep a few bottles around. In the South Pacific, it is used from everything from sun tan oil, to a moisturizer for hair, skin and nails, as well as aftersun and a whole host of other uses. I find it’s fantastic for really dry skin and mild eczema. Lovely stuff.

    I wouldn’t recommend it as a reference material for a couple of reasons, however:
    - coconut oil is a significant portion of the scent. It’s actually quite difficult to isolate the scent of the Tiaré.
    - the scent profile varies enormously between products and manufacturers.
    - it may be controlled, but many of the monoi oils I’ve found actually have scent materials added to boost the fragrance.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  10. #10

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    I would assume that both gardenia and tiare share a common AC, cis-3-hexenyl tiglate. Maybe someone has a headspace analysis of tiare...

    Gardenol / styrallyl acetate is not present in all gardenia species, and I think the one it is present in isn't the one we associate with the typical white floral/indolic smell.


  11. #11

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by Lauren O View Post
    Hi farawayspices, two other elements you would want are indole and gardenol. Indole will add the heady animalic aspect and the gardenol is a green note specific to gardenia (basically close enough to a tiare note).
    Great suggestions...I was concerned that gardenol would take this into more of a gardenia (of the US) direction, but I can always try it and see.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    US garden gardenia: http://www.tinkturenpresse.de/doku.p...noides_j.ellis

    Tahitian Gardenia Tiare: http://www.tinkturenpresse.de/doku.p...a_taitensis_dc

    At first sight, the 'greenish' methyl salicylate of Tiare points in direction of tuberose and the (Z)-3-hexen-1-yl esters make green-fruity top notes?

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Tiare accord

    I was gifted from Tiare absolute 8%. Here in front of me.
    Bright sweet green, benzyl acetate/wintergreen type top notes.
    Fruity, floral, indolic...Much brighter, more top notes, less powerful, less round than jasmine absolute.

    Nothing spicy in it. Not warm, but cool green and thin.
    Less complex than say, ylang ylang or jasmine absolute - both of which are warmer than my sample of tiare absolute.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by giftmischer View Post
    US garden gardenia: http://www.tinkturenpresse.de/doku.p...noides_j.ellis

    Tahitian Gardenia Tiare: http://www.tinkturenpresse.de/doku.p...a_taitensis_dc

    At first sight, the 'greenish' methyl salicylate of Tiare points in direction of tuberose and the (Z)-3-hexen-1-yl esters make green-fruity top notes?
    Thank you for the links, this looks like a great resource.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Good quality monoi is lovely stuff, and I always keep a few bottles around. In the South Pacific, it is used from everything from sun tan oil, to a moisturizer for hair, skin and nails, as well as aftersun and a whole host of other uses. I find it’s fantastic for really dry skin and mild eczema. Lovely stuff.

    I wouldn’t recommend it as a reference material for a couple of reasons, however:
    - coconut oil is a significant portion of the scent. It’s actually quite difficult to isolate the scent of the Tiaré.
    - the scent profile varies enormously between products and manufacturers.
    - it may be controlled, but many of the monoi oils I’ve found actually have scent materials added to boost the fragrance.
    The sample of pure monoi oil I had (as a raw material) did not have much of a floral scent, as I recall. The fragrant commercial monoi oils did have added fragrance. I do need to smell the fresh blossoms one day!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    I was gifted from Tiare absolute 8%. Here in front of me.
    Bright sweet green, benzyl acetate/wintergreen type top notes.
    Fruity, floral, indolic...Much brighter, more top notes, less powerful, less round than jasmine absolute.

    Nothing spicy in it. Not warm, but cool green and thin.
    Less complex than say, ylang ylang or jasmine absolute - both of which are warmer than my sample of tiare absolute.
    Would you have a reliable source for the Tiare Abs ?

    I chanced upon a supplier or two but they were located in India which made me very wary.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Tiare accord

    Does anyone have recipes for a natural perfume using frangipani? I haven't had much luck with it, it smells gorgeous on its own but as soon as I try to create a blend it starts to smell horrible. My googling on DIY recipes with frangipani have failed completely.

    Thank you!




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