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  1. #1

    Default Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    I have this issue with fixatives i need some input on...

    When ever i add materials like Iso e, Ethylene brassylate, Hedione, galaxolide and so on i really struggle to recognize the effect on the blend. However, zipping coffee on my desk 4 meters away i can clearly smell that something is going on.

    If we could generalize, what would be preferable:

    use more or less of the materials mentioned?
    Add the material and let the blend sit for a few days?
    Is it just me that needs to familiarize more with my materials?
    Or do i simply have to high expectations for what these materials will do with a blend?

    These materials seems really hard to get a proper grip on.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    I think that all of them *can be hard to smell, by themselves, and up close.
    Personally, I can smell all of them, but EB is the one that I smell the least. I was pouring some for a buyer of materials, and spilled some, so I soaked a very large blotter in EB to absorb, and placed it in my lab to evaluate. I still have a hard time smelling this fully saturated blotter, and it's been there for four days now.

    So, Yes, effectiveness in a blend is one way to evaluate them, if you can't really smell them individually.
    I know a Perfumer who advocates using EB as the foundation of all his musks in Perfumes. I think he says: Start with EB and add more to your liking." - or something similar.
    Well, I can't really do that, because I don't really smell it very well, if at all. I may be able to smell EB better after a week, maybe...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    Aldara, have you tried making up two blends (one with EB, IES, etc., and one without) and comparing them? I’ve done that with Hedione and Hedione HC and you can see their effects. Perhaps those materials effects on the primary fragrance aroma are subtle but impactful in other ways.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    ethylene brassylate fixative for florals green and aquatic. learning recognition of ethylene brassylate. texture soft dusty ambrette seed. alcohol dilute 1% ethylene brassylate, 1%benzoin, 1% civet. 2 weeks wait before application to scent strip. result grainy sweet texture. 20% ethylene brassylate grainy sweet texture most similar to ambrettolide, dihydro beta ionone accord 1%.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Iso/Et. Brass/hedione etc struggle

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I think that all of them *can be hard to smell, by themselves, and up close.
    Personally, I can smell all of them, but EB is the one that I smell the least. I was pouring some for a buyer of materials, and spilled some, so I soaked a very large blotter in EB to absorb, and placed it in my lab to evaluate. I still have a hard time smelling this fully saturated blotter, and it's been there for four days now.

    So, Yes, effectiveness in a blend is one way to evaluate them, if you can't really smell them individually.
    I know a Perfumer who advocates using EB as the foundation of all his musks in Perfumes. I think he says: Start with EB and add more to your liking." - or something similar.
    Well, I can't really do that, because I don't really smell it very well, if at all. I may be able to smell EB better after a week, maybe...
    Interesting theory using ethylene brassylate as musk base Paul...
    What are your thoughts on that?


    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
    Cheers, Happy Perfuming!
    Will




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