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  1. #1
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    Default Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    All EM threads are old, closed, or focused on just one or two fragrances of this line, so let's start from scratch!


    The whole line is based on synthetics, with the "Molecules" being - supposedly - just the pure molecules diluted in alcohol, and the "Escentric" being a composition around these, pushing these in front of the stage. A technical exercise by perfumer Geza Schoen.

    01: Iso gamma Super (aka synthetic wood-ish thing)
    02: Ambroxan (supposedly synthetic ambergris - not sure why this is the common thought, since to my nose, it is not even remotely close to the real ambergris tincture)
    03: Vetiveryl acetate (an ester derivative of natural vetiver oil, but not found in nature as it is)
    04: Javanol (supposedly synthetic sandalwood - the molecule found in 95% of fragrances stating they have a sandalwood "note")
    Note: the focus of this thread is on the olfactory property of the EM line, not a chemistry class - I'm not interested in hearing questionable forum based "2 cents expertise" in regard, so should you feel in that mood, please shift on the Fragrance DIY forum, thank you in advance!


    My impressions:

    M01 (Iso G Super) and M02 (Ambroxan): I will not comment on these, aside of confirming what most have said until now: I can barely smell them.
    M03 (Vetiveryl acetate): better projection than the first two, but very sharp and acrid. I'm a vetiver lover, but would not imagine myself wearing this one by itself.
    M04 (Javanol): nice. It is what it is, but only interesting one of the "Ms", to be wearable by itself imo.

    E01 :more interesting than M01, but still, poor projection. Some state that sometimes the fragrance "wakes up" later, and the perceive some whiffs a few hours in, but that hasn;t been my experience.
    E02: a very nice post-modern vision, fruity/metallic/woody, remotely reminding me of Le Labo Another 13 . Average projection, but i get the "whiffs" effect in that one.
    E03: now it starts to be interesting: a very nice citrus fragrance with vetiver support in the background. Moderate projection but great longevity on my skin, rare enough for a citrus based scent to be underlined!
    E04: very interesting. I can totally see this being the star of the whole collection. leasn a bit feminine though.

    I tried them in two sessions of four: first the 01s and 02s, and on a different day the 03s and 04s. When respraying, by accident I layered M03 and E03: THAT is the secret, and now I understood that those scents are made to be layered imo. I got a beautiful expression a vetiver by layering them, and from an acrid vetiver (M03) and a citrus scent with subtle vetiver support (E03), I obtained a fantastic vetiver fragrance with a very refined citrus support (M03+E03). That was the key.

    Will try to retest the other ones by layering them. What's your experience with this line?
    Last edited by Andy the frenchy; 14th July 2019 at 01:40 AM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
    Dependent MegaMav's Avatar
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    I have:

    M01 - Silky, silvery, metallic. I have gotten a few bombastic responses from people smelling it. I'm a 2-3 spray on this.
    M02 - Dry, I find this one to be more woody than M01, more cedar chest-ish too.
    M03 - Strong vetiver, more on the grassy side, very green with a grapefruit mist.
    M04 - The #1 thing I can smell when I open my fragrance cabinet of over 100 bottles. Soft but with an edge. I'm not sure I'd call it sandalwood. More like a woody floral musk. Be very careful with this. I actually sent a bottle back of this originally because I thought a broken bottle would hotel us for months. Its unrelenting and you will live with it for days whether you like it or not. Water has no effect on it coming out of clothes or skin. It should come with a warning label. You drop and break a bottle of this, people may die.

    E01 - M01 with a few supporting elements, total cash grab and a snorefest. Glad I didnt pay for it.
    E03 - My beloved. I own 4 bottles of this, 1 of which is original year 2010 and the maceration process has made it darker and fuller.
    This is my citrus vetiver of choice, it has a bitter fresh edge I love, and its never sweet but Schoen made it with a freshness that lasts thru the end, dont know how he did it.
    The dry sandalwood at the end is amazing its not Javanol, but may be Polysantol. 3 sprays and I love me some me.

    I briefly owned a bottle of E04, but smelled like laundry detergent to me, sent it back.

    All of these I spray under my shirt away from my face and get great results.
    A lot of these are large molecule and your sniffer may get tired quick.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaMav View Post
    E03 - My beloved. I own 4 bottles of this, 1 of which is original year 2010 and the maceration process has made it darker and fuller.
    This is my citrus vetiver of choice, it has a bitter fresh edge I love, and its never sweet but Schoen made it with a freshness that lasts thru the end, dont know how he did it.
    The dry sandalwood at the end is amazing its not Javanol, but may be Polysantol. 3 sprays and I love me some me.
    Thank you for sharing your thoughts on that line.
    Agreed with you. E03 is the one that made me the best impression, I may pull the trigger on that one, as well as M03 for layering.
    E02 is not bad either, but a totally different story.

  4. #4
    Dependent Roky's Avatar
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    I'm enjoying my bottle of M01 quite a bit. Fortunately I can smell myself, if I avoid overspraying and apply only on wrists and chest. It's compliments galore btw., not that I care too much about it. It's a projection monster. Last time I was wearing it in a street café and there literally were comments like "what's that nice smell" all around the table where we were sitting....
    Currently wearing: Cool Water by Davidoff

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie Foamywax's Avatar
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    The packaging sure is eye catching.
    A friend of mine wears one it's very strong but very synthetic ozonic smelling not my type of fragrance at all.
    I like gourmand fragrances but will try these when I can they seem quite expensive as well for fragrances that are 100% synthetic. I guess they must be blended well and project alot for so many people to like them.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    As most have said, M01 disappears. I can smell it from a distance, but up close I get nothing. I love the smell when I can smell it.
    I had decants of E01 and 02, but both were kind of boring.

    Very keen on trying M04.
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.

  7. #7
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Escentric Molecules - let's talk about it

    Personally found the ones I tried (which were almost all) disappointing.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.




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