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  1. #1
    Dependent Timothée Kal's Avatar
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    Default What's worth noting at the moment?

    Good day you kind ladies and gentlemen,

    Well this thread stems from the fact that my personal life commitments and career had taken me off this fine community for about a year or so. I have still been able to feed and "nourish" my hobby but I have lost touch with what fragrances the community is talking about at the moment.

    Any chance you may be so kind to give me a recap on the worth noting fragrances highlighted in the past 12 months? It can be both niche or designer.

    Kind regards

    Tim.

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    One fragrance house that has been exploding in 2019 was Rogue Perfumery. It has generated a lot interest by individuals over here.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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  3. #3
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    A couple of things.

    Primarily it seems the market is getting stratified beyond the old drugstore/designer/niche tiers that held in place for decades, and now we have a half-dozen, from drugstore/designer/designer prestige/niche/artisanal/luxury and so many gray areas inbetween, it's hard to really peg what is what. The biggest trend I've noticed is fragrances gradually returning to indulgences of the rich, as designers mildly neglect their standard lines with samey releases (now seen as entry-level) to focus more on their prestige lines which are often double or triple the price. Meanwhile, all the most notable niche houses of last decade have slowly been marching further upmarket with arbitrary price hikes while luxury brands also continue to widen the gap between themselves and the niche market by doing the same.

    Enter the artisanal houses: these guys are picking up where niche is leaving off as they join the luxury segment, in effect making artisanal houses like Fazzolari, 4160 Tuesdays, SIXTEEN92, and Rogue as "Niche 2.0". It's pretty interesting to watch all this unfold: designers getting staid and floundering in homogenization from corporate greed and focus group marketing, niche houses getting too egotistical plus also greedy and thinking they can all "be like Creed", while old apothecary/barbershop brands like Caswell-Massey or Geo F Trumpers quietly reinvent themselves into proper perfume houses and one-man operations steal all the love in the hobbyist circles like you see here. I kinda exist in my own world because I collect a lot of quirky stuff like vintage Avon and brands nobody talks about, but that's the summary of what I see.
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    Currently wearing: HisStory by Avon

  4. #4
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Overdrawn credit cards...?


    Jokes aside, the white hot oud trend continues unabated, motivating distillers to start their own artisanal lines of fragrance. One of the stellar stuff you must have missed: Bortnikoff Bonheur. Also the limited version 2 reproductions of Ottoman Empire and Siberian Musk from Areej Le Doré .

    Welcome back, Tim.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  5. #5
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Office One for Men ofc

  6. #6

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Welcome back!

    Also adding, among the very affordable and quite easily available unisex options yet also with good versatility: Herbae by l'Occitane.

  7. #7
    Dependent
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Office for men
    Aventus cologne
    Lavender extreme

  8. #8
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Aventus Cologne
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  9. #9

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Parfums de Marly Sedley

    Bleu de Chanel Parfum

    Mefisto Gentiluomo

    Guerlain L'Homme Ideal Cool

    Carolina Herrera Prive Collection Mystery Tobacco, and also Virgin Mint

    Mancera Black Gold

    Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo

    Various fragrances in the new Louis Vuitton collection

  10. #10
    Dependent crashtestbrummie's Avatar
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Cartier Declaration Parfum if you haven't tried it already
    Currently wearing: Mitzah by Christian Dior

  11. #11

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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    A couple of things.

    Primarily it seems the market is getting stratified beyond the old drugstore/designer/niche tiers that held in place for decades, and now we have a half-dozen, from drugstore/designer/designer prestige/niche/artisanal/luxury and so many gray areas inbetween, it's hard to really peg what is what. The biggest trend I've noticed is fragrances gradually returning to indulgences of the rich, as designers mildly neglect their standard lines with samey releases (now seen as entry-level) to focus more on their prestige lines which are often double or triple the price. Meanwhile, all the most notable niche houses of last decade have slowly been marching further upmarket with arbitrary price hikes while luxury brands also continue to widen the gap between themselves and the niche market by doing the same.

    Enter the artisanal houses: these guys are picking up where niche is leaving off as they join the luxury segment, in effect making artisanal houses like Fazzolari, 4160 Tuesdays, SIXTEEN92, and Rogue as "Niche 2.0". It's pretty interesting to watch all this unfold: designers getting staid and floundering in homogenization from corporate greed and focus group marketing, niche houses getting too egotistical plus also greedy and thinking they can all "be like Creed", while old apothecary/barbershop brands like Caswell-Massey or Geo F Trumpers quietly reinvent themselves into proper perfume houses and one-man operations steal all the love in the hobbyist circles like you see here. I kinda exist in my own world because I collect a lot of quirky stuff like vintage Avon and brands nobody talks about, but that's the summary of what I see.
    This is a really great response to your question! I agree completely. I'll just add a couple of other personal observations from the past year. Small American perfume houses continue to proliferate although most of them are very small. Three that I only discovered this past year because of the opening of the American Perfumer store here in Louisville are Soivohle (Rivertown Road, Green Oakmoss, and Underworld being three of my favorites from the house), La Curie (Incendo, Faunus) and Mikmoi (Vesper, Knight of Flowers, Lingua Franca). I thought I'd mention these because they are all virtually ignored on Basenotes, unlike Rogue and MadHat which have been getting quite a bit of (well-deserved) attention here lately.

    There is also a new Turkish house called Pekji that you should definitely check out.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    The best review I've seen of Creed's Aventus Cologne so far has been by Persolaise.

    "It is so simplistic...and so...unconvincing in its crass, citrusy...nothingness. It is the smell of the end of the world...."

    And he's just getting started.

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    Currently wearing: Black Vines by Kerosene

  13. #13
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    The best review I've seen of Creed's Aventus Cologne so far has been by Persolaise.

    At 33:00, for those interested. Amusing. "There's whole loads of musks that would make most fabric conditioners run away in fear."

  14. #14

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizzy View Post
    Office One for Men ofc
    Save $150 and get a bottle of vintage Tommy also by Morillias instead

  15. #15
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    At 33:00, for those interested. Amusing. "There's whole loads of musks that would make most fabric conditioners run away in fear."
    I like his pained expression after spraying it on the tester strip. He hasn't even brought it to his nose yet, and he's already recoiling.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Black Vines by Kerosene

  16. #16
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Aventus Cologne
    A lot of talks about this one this year.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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  17. #17
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    I can't believe this.

    I go into the hospital for a lousy ulcer operation.

    I lay in a bird's-eye wrapper years, wake up and
    suddenly i'm on the ten most wanted list.


    *Sleeper
    Kind of like Austin Powers waking up

  18. #18
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    a couple by Tom Ford I've been diggin' and haven't been mentioned: Beau de Jour & Fougere d'Argent
    "I drank what?" -Socrates

  19. #19
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnsteed View Post
    Save $150 and get a bottle of vintage Tommy also by Morillias instead
    That was a joke if you didn't got it

  20. #20
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    I can't believe this.

    I go into the hospital for a lousy ulcer operation.

    I lay in a bird's-eye wrapper years, wake up and
    suddenly i'm on the ten most wanted list.


    *Sleeper
    Kind of like Austin Powers waking up
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  21. #21

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shiny Beast View Post
    a couple by Tom Ford I've been diggin' and haven't been mentioned: Beau de Jour & Fougere d'Argent
    +1

    Also, what a slick outfit and House Tom Ford is - lots of 50ml bottles that can all be tested now in-store (metal slides) without having to listen to SA bullshit.

    Compared to other hit and miss Houses, Tom Ford has a heavy success rate and some fine fragrances. I've shocked myself!

  22. #22

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    +1

    Also, what a slick outfit and House Tom Ford is - lots of 50ml bottles that can all be tested now in-store (metal slides) without having to listen to SA bullshit.

    Compared to other hit and miss Houses, Tom Ford has a heavy success rate and some fine fragrances. I've shocked myself!
    Oh, every time I try TF frags at a department store, SAs make a beeline for me and I can't shake 'em. It's frustrating.
    Current Favorites
    Aramis Tuscany per Uomo, Cartier L'Envol EDP, Dior Eau Sauvage EDT, Guerlain Héritage EDT, Guerlain L'Instant Pour Homme EDT, Lalique Pour Homme Lion EDP, Michael Kors Michael for Men (Vtg), Odori Tabacco, Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Tom Ford Ombré Leather

  23. #23

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Oh, every time I try TF frags at a department store, SAs make a beeline for me and I can't shake 'em. It's frustrating.
    yeah - same here.

    At Harvey Nichols now, they have these metal slides with the name of the fragrance that have sprayed pads at the end and you can just lift and test to your hearts content.

    I also noticed that Fucking Fabulous had the first word blacked out

  24. #24
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    I also noticed that Fucking Fabulous had the first word blacked out
    Surprising, I always thought Great Britain and sex make a terrific pairing.
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  25. #25
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Honestly I haven't come across any remarkable release in the past 12 months. These are perhaps worth a try, still -

    (2019)
    Herbae by L'Occitane
    Beau de Jour by Tom Ford
    Eau de Minthé by Diptyque

    (2018)
    1957 & Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel
    Music for a While by Malle
    Acqua di Gio Absolu by Armani
    Cap Neroli & Neroli Intense by Nicolai
    Ombre Leather by Tom Ford
    Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist

    Moreover check out Rogue Perfumery.
    50 sprays a day keeps the doc away

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  26. #26

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Honestly I haven't come across any remarkable release in the past 12 months. These are perhaps worth a try, still -

    (2019)
    Herbae by L'Occitane
    This one is really nice, and would be a real winner if the sweetness were toned down a tad.
    Current Favorites
    Aramis Tuscany per Uomo, Cartier L'Envol EDP, Dior Eau Sauvage EDT, Guerlain Héritage EDT, Guerlain L'Instant Pour Homme EDT, Lalique Pour Homme Lion EDP, Michael Kors Michael for Men (Vtg), Odori Tabacco, Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Tom Ford Ombré Leather

  27. #27
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    yeah - same here.

    At Harvey Nichols now, they have these metal slides with the name of the fragrance that have sprayed pads at the end and you can just lift and test to your hearts content.

    I also noticed that Fucking Fabulous had the first word blacked out
    I noticed they do that in the States too, but not in Canada. Most sensible people here are more offended by the obscene sticker price, which is $410. Just more bollocks.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Black Vines by Kerosene

  28. #28
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    A lot of talks about this one this year.
    Justifiably so.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    A lot of talks about this one this year.
    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Justifiably so.
    Define "justifiably".

    For what's in the bottle, or the fanboys' reaction to another $435 Aventus bottle hitting the market?
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Black Vines by Kerosene

  30. #30

    Default Re: What's worth noting at the moment?

    Aventus Cologne?

    Current Favorites
    Aramis Tuscany per Uomo, Cartier L'Envol EDP, Dior Eau Sauvage EDT, Guerlain Héritage EDT, Guerlain L'Instant Pour Homme EDT, Lalique Pour Homme Lion EDP, Michael Kors Michael for Men (Vtg), Odori Tabacco, Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, Tom Ford Ombré Leather




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