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  1. #31

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Wow - I couldn’t have asked for a better group! Bavard, purecaramel, greyspoole, epapsiou and Zealot Crusader: I’ll be happy to see what I can find that you might enjoy!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  2. #32

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Let's do it! How about this Monday?
    Just saw this. I’m in!

    (PS: I confess I cannot read “let’s do it” without hearing it, Arnie-style... “let’s DO it”. Weird 80’s crossover aside, count me in
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    I'd be open for another sniffing adventure if it's not too late.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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  4. #34

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Okay, I’m about 30 minutes in to my Replique parfum wearing today. A quick blast of aldehydes in the opening, which dissipated very quickly, followed by HUGE wafts of soft, powder. Heliotrope in spades. The leatheriness is subdued at present, but forming a lovely sleek backdrop to the powdery notes. For some reason I’m getting a phantom violet? The moss is there, and currently showing its inky facets: the whole thing is a deep, rich green, with a dusting of powder on a base of leather and violets.

    Its giving me the loveliest image of deep purple violets growing on a mossy forest floor in a shaded glen. It smells like something Tatiana might have worn, in a Midsummer Night’s Dream. Dark, feminine, but strange and full of tension and contrasting textures.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  5. #35

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I'd be open for another sniffing adventure if it's not too late.
    Happy to add you N.Cal.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  6. #36

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    And... the musk has bloomed. Oh so beautifully. Supported by the dark patchouli in this, it’s bringing out all the chocolatey facets of the musk. The fairy queen is awakening from her slumber, to find herself in the arms of a furry beast
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  7. #37

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Lellabelle-

    This observation about a personal, rather than general, creative/design process is quite fascinating. Given that many industry perfumers say that excessive market testing eliminates innovative concepts, perhaps all perfumes should just be designed with a specific loved one in mind.
    This certainly extends to other arts as well. I once saw a painting by a conceptual artist that was composed by using polling data about preferred subject matter and style for a "good" painting. Wish I could have found the image to post. The art was done with tongue in cheek and predictably resulted in very unsatisfying, disjointed, and uninspired piece. Although technical skills are to be admired, what matters is how those skills are brought to bear in the artistic translation of materials and subject matter which is difficult to do by committee, and is generally more interesting when done through a very personal lens of experience.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Let's do it! How about this Monday?
    Here's my Monday Replique test:

    I had some weird cat pee thing happen the last couple days. Noticed it very prominent, overwhelming in Ecusson EDC, and my pre 2002 Mitsouko - never had that happen before. I'm trying the Replique today and hoping that my chemistry doesn't make my testing off.

    My bottle of Replique looks to be identical to Lellabelle's photo so likely of similar vintage.

    I definitely get the aldehydes (luckily no cat pee right off) and then immediately am hit with big florals and they aren't like the white ones I smell in so many of my other fragrances. I imagine color on these flowers but they are substantial, and not bright or floaty. I am not familiar enough to name them individually. The flowers settle and there is a spice - not warm, but sharp and slightly bitter. The spice is persistent but is eventually joined by the rising of a sweetness similar to the breath of someone in ketosis, but without the acetone. After some extended time I'm getting an exhalation of the sweet spice, powder, and the open woods (not getting a big sense of dampness). Off topic but - considering my last couple days with known civet formulas, I wonder if it is not present here or that the choice of other materials has subdued/modified a possible pee response.

    I'd say that Lellabelle's call about the Purple is definitely what I experienced for color in the flowers.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  8. #38

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    I didn't ask to be invited to this party, but since I have the same vintage Replique, thought I'd join in.

    I get a very ripe, radiant, rindy Sicilian lemon at the outset with spices. Bergamot less so. There is supposed to be cardamom in the formula, but other people mention cinnamon when I've worn it. I think it is a combination of lemon with sage, oakmoss, and the sweet (and to me, very blended) florals/aledhydes, that suggest spice. This phase stays stable for at least 2 hours, then changes to the earthy dead leaf accord that grayspoole mentioned on a carpet of heliotrope, musk, and perhaps ambergris?

    The sage is really appealing to me and gives this structure. It is much more prominent in the EDT where the lemon recedes, but the same powdery spice is constant.

    The image of a sun-dappled glade is very apt; seems Pre-Raphaelite in feel to me. Formal in structure, but richly sensual in effect.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Happy to add you N.Cal.
    Looking forward to another adventure
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459...d-Fridays-2019

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    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    In our recent discussion of oakmoss in vintage perfumes, Lellabelle, Earlyn, and I brought up vintage Replique, and the idea of a synchronized test was born. Lellabelle, Earlyn, and Couronne de Violette have already posted wonderful comments on Replique. If you have some vintage Replique on hand, please do join in--no invitation required.

    I thoroughly enjoyed my vintage Replique extrait all day yesterday. My usual application of 4 dabs (inside the elbows, middle of chest, and nape of neck) easily lasted 8-10 hours. Replique does not project loud and wide; instead, it offers a soft, rich veil of scent. The published note lists for Replique are lengthy, ringing changes on a wide array of disparate ingredients. Replique never feels like a mere series of notes, however. To me, it is a chypre that more than anything celebrates the smell of natural oakmoss. Replique is a seamless and rather unique composition that doesn’t smell quite like any other perfume I can think of. If I had to give a comparison, I would probably have to go with Le Galion’s Brumes (which I own and compared to Replique this morning) or Lentheric Tweed (which I don’t own, and so I am basing this on a long ago test of a vintage nip.)

    Of course, there are other ingredients besides oakmoss in Replique’s composition. There is some soft citrus in the opening along with crisp aldehydes and a LOTV note (the now restricted hydroxycitronellal?). I do not perceive many strong or obvious floral notes in Replique, but I do agree with the other commentators that as the perfume dries down, something like heliotrope or violet is being suggested. In the very late drydown, Replique has a warm powdered orris texture and radiates with an amber glow, along with some creamy sandalwood.

    Grace Hummel/Cleopatra’s Boudoir has published an excellent, exhaustive post on Replique’s history here:

    https://cleopatrasboudoir.blogspot.c...ael-c1936.html

    As you will see, Replique has been reformulated again and again from the late 1970’s on. I would avoid anything later than the mid 1970’s, although I haven’t tried any of these versions. I have the extrait in the two-prong flacon and an EDT splash in the wasp waisted bottle, both from the 1960’s. If memory serves, they came in a set. Both are good, but I definitely prefer the extrait.
    Currently wearing: Bandit by Robert Piguet

  11. #41

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    I now have a sample of Oakmoss and some others coming from the Jean Carles chart that make frequent appearances in vintages. I'm looking forward to comparing them with notes from discussions such as these. When I opened the oak moss to smell it I was kind of apprehensive because it looked almost black. I recognized the smell immediately as did my daughter. All I did was remove the lid and make an arc in the air and put it right back on the bottle and the smell wafted through the whole kitchen where my daughter was sitting and she perked up and smiled and said she loved that smell. When she was little she and her friends used to make "potions" by digging up the twigs and dirt and pinecones in the woods and mixing it with water and spices. Its no wonder this is so appealing to people, and so often used in so many fragrances.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I now have a sample of Oakmoss... I recognized the smell immediately as did my daughter. All I did was remove the lid and make an arc in the air and put it right back on the bottle and the smell wafted through the whole kitchen where my daughter was sitting and she perked up and smiled and said she loved that smell. When she was little she and her friends used to make "potions" by digging up the twigs and dirt and pinecones in the woods and mixing it with water and spices. Its no wonder this is so appealing to people, and so often used in so many fragrances.
    What a lovely story, Earlyn. My daughters made natural potions when they were little, too. Oakmoss really does smell so...elemental and magical.
    Currently wearing: Bandit by Robert Piguet

  13. #43

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Wow - I couldn’t have asked for a better group! Bavard, purecaramel, greyspoole, epapsiou and Zealot Crusader: I’ll be happy to see what I can find that you might enjoy!
    Okay, I’m packaging up some samples today and tomorrow. Should be able to get these in the mail on Saturday. Bavard, greyspoole, epapsiou, Zealot Crusader and NCal, if you could PM me your shipping info, that would be great. PureCaramel, I just sent you a message to confirm arrangements.

    Apologies for the delay, I have family here on an extended visit and it’s a little crazy. Thank you all for your patience, and for your feedback
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Apologies for the delay, I have family here on an extended visit and it’s a little crazy. Thank you all for your patience, and for your feedback
    Lellabelle, please send whenever it is convenient for you. I'm traveling myself and won't be home for another 10 days (although I can still receive packages), I'm so excited to try your work, and it is very generous of you to share some with us. Sending you a PM now...
    Currently wearing: Bandit by Robert Piguet

  15. #45

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    All addresses received, and these are in the mail (finally!) as of yesterday . I’ve sent them ground, due to shipping restrictions, but they are on their way!

    I included a mystery Chypre, that I have been working on this week. It needs some time still, so you may need to give it a moment after applying for the alcohol to dissipate. It will continue to evolve a little.

    A reminder, though I’m sure it’s not needed, that these are absolutely not IFRA compliant, and contain generous amounts of oakmoss, citruses, etc. All natural, and if there’s anything you’re concerned might be problematic for you, let me know and I’ll confirm concentrations etc.

    I haven’t included note breakdowns, as I thought it might be fun to explore together. Let me know how you’d like to do this?
    A little taster, taken last week when I was getting these ready to ship:

    079C911D-BFF7-46F8-99EC-45A98B1BB4D2.jpg
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    All addresses received, and these are in the mail (finally!) as of yesterday . I’ve sent them ground, due to shipping restrictions, but they are on their way!

    I included a mystery Chypre, that I have been working on this week. It needs some time still, so you may need to give it a moment after applying for the alcohol to dissipate. It will continue to evolve a little.

    A reminder, though I’m sure it’s not needed, that these are absolutely not IFRA compliant, and contain generous amounts of oakmoss, citruses, etc. All natural, and if there’s anything you’re concerned might be problematic for you, let me know and I’ll confirm concentrations etc.

    I haven’t included note breakdowns, as I thought it might be fun to explore together. Let me know how you’d like to do this?
    A little taster, taken last week when I was getting these ready to ship:

    079C911D-BFF7-46F8-99EC-45A98B1BB4D2.jpg
    Yay. Can't wait.
    You may want to start a separate thread. That way it is easy to search once we are all dead and gone.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  17. #47

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    May that be far in the future!

    Good idea. I’m not sure if I’m allowed to start a thread like this without breaking some site rules: would that be considered promotion of some sort? Any thoughts as to where a sampling thread like this would usually get posted? Suggestions are welcome!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    May that be far in the future!

    Good idea. I’m not sure if I’m allowed to start a thread like this without breaking some site rules: would that be considered promotion of some sort? Any thoughts as to where a sampling thread like this would usually get posted? Suggestions are welcome!
    I can start one. Do you want it in vintage fragrance discussion or general fragrance discussion?

  19. #49

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Thank you Bavard, that helps! Wherever you think best.

    My modest creations are branded as Spirit Bear Perfumes. As I mentioned, I mostly do this for enjoyment and don’t advertise or promote, so certainly don’t want to run afoul of any restrictions here. I’m genuinely grateful for the feedback from members whose opinions I value.

    This group has been so supportive and so knowledgeable: it’s both nerve-wracking, and exciting, to share my perfume. I hope you find something you enjoy and thank you for sharing your insights
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Thank you Bavard, that helps! Wherever you think best.

    My modest creations are branded as Spirit Bear Perfumes. As I mentioned, I mostly do this for enjoyment and don’t advertise or promote, so certainly don’t want to run afoul of any restrictions here. I’m genuinely grateful for the feedback from members whose opinions I value.

    This group has been so supportive and so knowledgeable: it’s both nerve-wracking, and exciting, to share my perfume. I hope you find something you enjoy and thank you for sharing your insights
    I kept it here in vintage.

  21. #51

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Thanks
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  22. #52

    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Bavard, I just saw the thread you posted. You’re too kind, really!

    I only hope I don’t disappoint you! The perfumes I admire are some of the all-time greats, and a lifetime of study is unlikely to ever get me there. Mine are simple things by comparison and obviously not in the same league!

    Appreciation for the classics has contributed greatly to both my passion for, and appreciation of, materials and structures, which hopefully shows up in the choices I make when blending. Using the best materials I can source, and working without any restrictions, keeps things enjoyable. Naturals have a beauty of their own that seems to shine best when uncomplicated - nature takes credit for that
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    I only hope I don’t disappoint you!
    I wouldn't worry.




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