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  1. #31
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Red Leather:
    I think the leather here is smoked meat
    Cade, maybe?

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Zaffran:
    The saffron fades with time leaving only the smell of eggs. A scrubber..
    Eggs?? That's a new one for me, even in a spoiled fragrance. Like boiled eggs? Yuck.
    Before the leaves fall, an all-green September:
    Aromatics Elixir / Azuree / Corsica Furiosa / Cristalle / Eau du Sud / Eau Sauvage / Iskander / Ivoire, 1980 / Ivoire, 2012 / Le Canotier / Ninfeo Mio / No. 19 / Prince de Galles Sport / Route de Vetiver / Safari / Silences / Sud Est / Tiare / Vent Vert / Vetiver de Guerlain / Vetiverus / Vert de Acampora

  2. #32
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I've had that happen twice now with whole lines: once with Vero Profumo and once with Areej le Dore -- both of which I wanted to love, because they were revered by so many people whose tastes I admire. They didn't give me headaches, but made me terribly nauseated, which I find even worse than headache. Gave away both of my discovery sets.

    As neither of those lines are noted for cheap ACs, and are praised for their "retro" construction, I've never figured out what sickened me.
    Both of them are potent, just like PKiler. Maybe it is the concentration of something innocuous .
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  3. #33
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Cade, maybe?



    Eggs?? That's a new one for me, even in a spoiled fragrance. Like boiled eggs? Yuck.
    Nah Cade is greener than what I smell here.

    And yes boiled egg. Something is sulphurous in Zaffran.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  4. #34
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Zaffran:
    Starts out with very strong Saffron. But within minutes an egg accord overtakes the fragrance. The saffron fades with time leaving only the smell of eggs. A scrubber.
    Looking at other reviews and notes I think either the sample has spoiled or I am hypernosmic to something.
    This is an interesting observation. How old is the sample? In the sample set I got this year, I made no correlation to eggs with Zaffron. Both myself and my brother Mythrol found it to be one of the easier to wear PKs.

    Actually, after reading most of your comments I’m curious as to either a reformulation on some of these or product degradation. While you and I don’t always align on what our favorites are, we rarely (only one occasion comes to mind) smell things completely differently. Curious.

    I guess I should point out to any reading that while I’ve enjoyed some PK scents, I never was moved enough to go through with a purchase. The favorites for me were:

    Zaffran: didn’t purchase because there too many other fragrances with saffron in that I prefer, including from small artisans like Imaginary Authors.

    Ere: a true fougere styled fragrance with solid performance. Didn’t buy a bottle, but would be ok owning, due to others very similar... like the green CO Bigelow one that you can purchase from Bath and Body works for a fraction of the price of the PK. Arguably the PK is better contracted and less synthetic. Perhaps.

    Modern Leather: rivals the best of what Tom Ford could hope to offer and the falls flat on its face at the 2 hour mark and disappears into oblivion.


    Honorable mention to the new Maderas de Oriente Oscuro for being one of the most photorealistic representations of smoke. I have twice made the comment that Disney would benefit getting PK to put the same skills at work in this fragrance on their Pirates if the Caribbean ride. I once told it to PK in pm and he went silent, which makes me wonder if my Disney comment offended him in some shallow way. Who knows? Considering Disney parks crush profits annual, I’d happily do business with them. The issue with Maderas de Oriente Oscuro was that, even as artistic as it is, it’s not really wearable.
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    This is an interesting observation. How old is the sample? In the sample set I got this year, I made no correlation to eggs with Zaffron. Both myself and my brother Mythrol found it to be one of the easier to wear PKs.

    Actually, after reading most of your comments I’m curious as to either a reformulation on some of these or product degradation. While you and I don’t always align on what our favorites are, we rarely (only one occasion comes to mind) smell things completely differently. Curious.

    I guess I should point out to any reading that while I’ve enjoyed some PK scents, I never was moved enough to go through with a purchase. The favorites for me were:

    Zaffran: didn’t purchase because there too many other fragrances with saffron in that I prefer, including from small artisans like Imaginary Authors.

    Ere: a true fougere styled fragrance with solid performance. Didn’t buy a bottle, but would be ok owning, due to others very similar... like the green CO Bigelow one that you can purchase from Bath and Body works for a fraction of the price of the PK. Arguably the PK is better contracted and less synthetic. Perhaps.

    Modern Leather: rivals the best of what Tom Ford could hope to offer and the falls flat on its face at the 2 hour mark and disappears into oblivion.


    Honorable mention to the new Maderas de Oriente Oscuro for being one of the most photorealistic representations of smoke. I have twice made the comment that Disney would benefit getting PK to put the same skills at work in this fragrance on their Pirates if the Caribbean ride. I once told it to PK in pm and he went silent, which makes me wonder if my Disney comment offended him in some shallow way. Who knows? Considering Disney parks crush profits annual, I’d happily do business with them. The issue with Maderas de Oriente Oscuro was that, even as artistic as it is, it’s not really wearable.
    I think reformulation might be a factor for some of them. As for Zaffran , most likely degradation of sample. I don't think others have degraded.
    I did find Ere to be a people pleaser but I have things like that in my wardrobe already.

    I will put Modern Leather and Maderas de Oriente in my to-try list.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  6. #36
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Cafe Diem:

    Opens with galbanum, incensne , amber, spices and musk. As it settles down I get some Hinoki and coffee too.
    It is right in my wheelhouse. Sweet and spicy incense.
    If you like CdG incense series or MadHat's Incenses you will like this one too.
    So far the best of the lot for me.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  7. #37
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Violet Chocolatier:

    It is very hard to get chocolate right in fragrances. Coffee is easier but chocolate has never been done right in my opinion. It just overpowers and throws the balance off. That is why big houses do not use it and it is confined to indies where it has always been tried but never one right.
    The trick is to use it disparagingly. . I think Sarah from 4160 came close in one of hers and so did Paul in this.
    Again top is off balance like his other stuff but it does settle down fast and you get soft chocolate in background with jolly rancher blue raspberry and violet in the foreground, indoles and hazelnut balancing the composition.

    Just so we are clear - no one has managed to get chocolate right. Paul and Sarah came close but still meh.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  8. #38
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    pk was banned very recently, and I am quite curious as to why.
    Yep, a despicable thread. It wasn't the first time he showed his real face, and some of his statements in previous threads were simply unacceptable imo. I'm surprised the ban didn't occur earlier tbh.

    Back on topic: I tried several (but not all) of his fragrances. Of what I tried, I found them just ok to very bad, that is not acceptable at that price point.
    I could tell that the materials used in his frags are of high quality, but the blends quite amateur level. Furthermore, due to its large use of natural compounds, low scale production and the lack of serious stability test, it's highly probable that these fragrance go bad after just a couple of years (I saw a person complain about a bad sample, that may be the reason).

    For all the reasons above (both the fragrance and the person), I will not support this business, and it's a hard pass for me on this house.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyprince View Post
    I have several of these samples that I haven't tried for a while. I'll probably try them again when this discussion is going on and chime in with my thoughts. My favorite perfume by him is Rhinoceros from Zoologist.
    Not sure which one you're referring to, but FYI Kiler's Rhinoceros is the 2014 version, discontinued 2 years later because of low sales compared to the other Zoologist frags. In 2017, Zoologist perfumes asked a different perfumer to blend a new Rhinoceros from scratch, thus the current version is nothing like the previous one: it's a new fragrance, not a reformulation.
    The only Zoologist fragrance designed by Kiler still sold currently is Panda (that I personally don't care about)

    Edit: I got confused, the fragrance that has been redone from scratch is Panda, not Rhinoceros! Please disregard my post.

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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post
    Not sure which one you're referring to, but FYI Kiler's Rhinoceros is the 2014 version, discontinued 2 years later because of low sales compared to the other Zoologist frags. In 2017, Zoologist perfumes asked a different perfumer to blend a new Rhinoceros from scratch, thus the current version is nothing like the previous one: it's a new fragrance, not a reformulation.
    The only Zoologist fragrance designed by Kiler still sold currently is Panda (that I personally don't care about).
    I don't know where you are getting your information, but the Zoologist website lists Paul Klier as the the perfumer for Rhinoceros. Are you perhaps confusing it with Beaver? Also, Klier was the perfumer for the original Panda, not the current one.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyprince View Post
    I don't know where you are getting your information, but the Zoologist website lists Paul Klier as the the perfumer for Rhinoceros. Are you perhaps confusing it with Beaver? Also, Klier was the perfumer for the original Panda, not the current one.
    Sorry, I got confused. I was referring to Panda, not Rhinoceros. As not said!

  12. #42
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Ginger Zest de Citron:

    This one is very light. Very unlike Paul's other fragrances.
    Citrus, musk, vetiver all very light. There are some spices that are even more muted.
    Not bad but I see no reason to buy it
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  13. #43
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Hello! Apologies to all participants and posters on this thread for my tardy replies. It is not due a lack of interest or anything other than my own time constraints currently. I will continue to have restricted time to post so I must apologize in advance for that as well. When I started the pass I assumed my input would be limited given my limited experience with these, and I know the awesome sample pass gang is perfectly capable of keeping the pass on track without much help from me. (So basically I started a bit of a zombie pass, lol!)

    Speaking of keeping things on track, I'd just like to remind folks that discussing bans or other aspects of moderator evaluations/assessments or decisions is a bit of a no-no, and I don't want any of the fine posters here running into issues of any kind. Beyond that, this is a sample pass and a discussion of PK Perfumes, not of PK himself as a person or BN member.

    And again, I am not taking any stance or anyone's side by noting these things, merely reminding folks of the Code of Conduct for this lovely site. Honestly, the mods don't need more work, so let's keep the headaches created by this thread limited to those caused by perfume. (LOL!)

    Here are the pertinent parts of the Code of Conduct. For the full text read here.http://www.basenotes.net/about/92-ba...ct-for-members


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    And now back to the show in progress! :Laugh:

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Someone had to take one for the team
    But in reality I am used to those AC. A long story but the gist is I grew up with them and had to endure them one week every summer up until college. Sort of nostalgic for me

    One of my friend is sensitive to fragrances. Or so she thought. I did experiments with her and we figured out that she is fine with vintages, but give her something modern and she starts sniffling plus headaches. Hypothesis is that some newer AC triggers it. Or maybe some new fixatives.
    She was sitting next to me when I wore Red Leather today and Velvet Cuaracao on Monday. Both triggered her headache. She was fine with Ere.
    Interesting observations, as usual, e! I almost never get headaches from perfumes, so whatever ACs are in PK perfumes (or most of them, from my card experience) does an admirable job in making me miserable! Lol, sad truth.

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Ere:

    Very different from what I have smelled so far. Top is smooth and nice. It is a fragrance that covers a lot of ground. Has the modern aromatic fougere element to it. It is also clean, coniferous and crisp.
    But it follows a mass market script and is missing the artisanal touch one expects from Paul.
    It is very similar to one of those Cereus (4 or 7 can't remember).

    The only office safe fragrance thus far
    This almost makes me want to retry it, but I recall thinking similarly during the other pass, in error. This was also awful smelling on a card and IIRC, I thought that pine sol does it better and is far more pleasant. :0

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Red Leather:
    It begins with smell of something you would eat in a summer day barbeque.
    Pimiento, rhubarb, juniper, burnt meat. Top is not as harsh as his other ones but not as smooth as Ere.
    But soon it develops into a smoky meaty medicinal scent.
    I can understand why it is one of his most popular fragrance.
    The smoky accord is similar to one in Amouage attar (Tribute I think).
    I think the leather here is smoked meat
    Oof! I think this note in any application would turn my stomach!

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Zaffran:
    Starts out with very strong Saffron. But within minutes an egg accord overtakes the fragrance. The saffron fades with time leaving only the smell of eggs. A scrubber.
    Looking at other reviews and notes I think either the sample has spoiled or I am hypernosmic to something.
    Wow, a strong saffron accord would have been awesome! I love saffron. I did spray cards before sending this off to you, just to torture myself-- I mean to participate-- and the thing smelled the same as I recalled. No saffron to me, but instead a harsh, synthetic leathery thing that was standing in for saffron. I did not get eggs. Saffron is pretty tasty in eggs though. Seriously, that note in perfume sounds revolting in a whole different way. I am curious to see what others sense. It may be that the egg doesn’t show on a card. I wondered about degradation before the pass, but these were kept in ideal conditions for perfumes and smelled identical to my previous (albeit limited) experience as far as I could recall.


    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I've had that happen twice now with whole lines: once with Vero Profumo and once with Areej le Dore -- both of which I wanted to love, because they were revered by so many people whose tastes I admire. They didn't give me headaches, but made me terribly nauseated, which I find even worse than headache. Gave away both of my discovery sets.

    As neither of those lines are noted for cheap ACs, and are praised for their "retro" construction, I've never figured out what sickened me.
    Isn’t this just so confounding??? Even more so when so many people are raving about a scent, much less a whole line! In this case, I do know of more than a handful of people who are in agreement with some of my opinions on these. I suppose none of this should be any surprise. Everyone really does sense things differently, even people whose tastes often align with one's own. However, that said, I am also shocked that both of those lines were nauseating for you. Given the reputation of both lines and your proclivity for vintages, I would never have guessed it. I guess it again shows that quality of ingredients (or lack thereof) is not a definitive factor in what may make us ill upon smelling something or not. (Tally a point for the cheap-and-cheerfuls?) During the other pass, despite so many people purporting to like various fragrances, I assumed the PK ingredients at fault were ultra cheapo ACs that I may have been hyper sensitive to, but who knows.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    This is an interesting observation. How old is the sample? In the sample set I got this year, I made no correlation to eggs with Zaffron. Both myself and my brother Mythrol found it to be one of the easier to wear PKs.

    Actually, after reading most of your comments I’m curious as to either a reformulation on some of these or product degradation. While you and I don’t always align on what our favorites are, we rarely (only one occasion comes to mind) smell things completely differently. Curious.

    I guess I should point out to any reading that while I’ve enjoyed some PK scents, I never was moved enough to go through with a purchase. The favorites for me were:

    Zaffran: didn’t purchase because there too many other fragrances with saffron in that I prefer, including from small artisans like Imaginary Authors.

    Ere: a true fougere styled fragrance with solid performance. Didn’t buy a bottle, but would be ok owning, due to others very similar... like the green CO Bigelow one that you can purchase from Bath and Body works for a fraction of the price of the PK. Arguably the PK is better contracted and less synthetic. Perhaps.

    Modern Leather: rivals the best of what Tom Ford could hope to offer and the falls flat on its face at the 2 hour mark and disappears into oblivion.


    Honorable mention to the new Maderas de Oriente Oscuro for being one of the most photorealistic representations of smoke. I have twice made the comment that Disney would benefit getting PK to put the same skills at work in this fragrance on their Pirates if the Caribbean ride. I once told it to PK in pm and he went silent, which makes me wonder if my Disney comment offended him in some shallow way. Who knows? Considering Disney parks crush profits annual, I’d happily do business with them. The issue with Maderas de Oriente Oscuro was that, even as artistic as it is, it’s not really wearable.

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts and impressions!!! Glad to see you. Yes, so curious as to if there was some change in the composition of Zaffran. These samples are circa 2013, but I wouldn't know actual production dates. We will have to see what our other intrepid participants sense. And the Pirates of the Carribbean has that awesome musty, earthy, (geosmin?) smell already! (Have they changed that?!?) Not that I go to Disneyland often or have any plans to in the future, but I would find it sad if that characteristic smell was removed or changed or altered. (cough, cough… especially to a PK created scent!!!!!! Cough… New ride name: Headache from Hell… cough, cough…) Ahem… seems like these perfumes also give me a cough. LOL.


    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I think reformulation might be a factor for some of them. As for Zaffran , most likely degradation of sample. I don't think others have degraded.
    I did find Ere to be a people pleaser but I have things like that in my wardrobe already.

    I will put Modern Leather and Maderas de Oriente in my to-try list.
    Yes, such a mystery. Again, noting that these samples are rather old, from 2013. Perhaps it is also good information to know if a perfume ages well or not. Owners of these would have paid a pretty penny and it is always disappointing to find something has gone off! I actually was of the opinion that perhaps some of these had aged *well* as a few that I sprayed on cards seemed less offensive than my previous experience. I thought possibly the ingredients mellowed or blended more pleasantly to my nose. Alternatively, I have also had serious thoughts that my nose is “off” of late. Not sure I'm smelling things "right." Lol… A personal mystery for me.



    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Cafe Diem:

    Opens with galbanum, incensne , amber, spices and musk. As it settles down I get some Hinoki and coffee too.
    It is right in my wheelhouse. Sweet and spicy incense.
    If you like CdG incense series or MadHat's Incenses you will like this one too.
    So far the best of the lot for me.
    This was one that smelled better on the card this time around than last time. Still, I think it is rather a stretch to compare to either CDG or Madhat, both of which I love. Alas, I only tried it on a card so I can’t really judge. (Although I thought Luca Turin also sniffs a lot of things on cards only?!?)


    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Violet Chocolatier:

    It is very hard to get chocolate right in fragrances. Coffee is easier but chocolate has never been done right in my opinion. It just overpowers and throws the balance off. That is why big houses do not use it and it is confined to indies where it has always been tried but never one right.
    The trick is to use it disparagingly. . I think Sarah from 4160 came close in one of hers and so did Paul in this.
    Again top is off balance like his other stuff but it does settle down fast and you get soft chocolate in background with jolly rancher blue raspberry and violet in the foreground, indoles and hazelnut balancing the composition.

    Just so we are clear - no one has managed to get chocolate right. Paul and Sarah came close but still meh.
    This was a big disappointment for me, as on the card it was pure cocoa puff ( cheap, thin, fake chocolate) and laundry detergent. No violet to speak of for me and violet is a favorite note. Nice violet perfumes are often found at very inexpensive price points, so I had assumed the chemicals were inexpensive and wondered why more could not have been employed here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post
    Yep, a despicable thread. It wasn't the first time he showed his real face, and some of his statements in previous threads were simply unacceptable imo. I'm surprised the ban didn't occur earlier tbh.

    Back on topic: I tried several (but not all) of his fragrances. Of what I tried, I found them just ok to very bad, that is not acceptable at that price point.
    I could tell that the materials used in his frags are of high quality, but the blends quite amateur level. Furthermore, due to its large use of natural compounds, low scale production and the lack of serious stability test, it's highly probable that these fragrance go bad after just a couple of years (I saw a person complain about a bad sample, that may be the reason).

    For all the reasons above (both the fragrance and the person), I will not support this business, and it's a hard pass for me on this house.
    Thanks for posting and sharing your thoughts and impressions! I appreciate the variety is perspectives and considerations and we all get to benefit from reading. Are we sure of the ingredients? I read previously that he used a lot of naturals and high quality ingredients, but frankly, I think that came from the perfumer and I had to wonder if there was some marketing at work, similar to Creed's purported perfume pedigrees. We don't actually know what goes into these, do we? I have been of the opinion that these were more closely akin to the super synthetic $1 attars e mentioned than say something like Aftelier or Madhat or Rogue, all of which use exclusively.or many naturals.

    Also, had I only sampled one or two of these, I might have thought that I had a bad sample, given the other positive comments.


    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post
    Sorry, I got confused. I was referring to Panda, not Rhinoceros. As not said!
    I enjoyed many of the Zoologist line that I've smelled and frankly, was bewildered by PK being used as a perfumer for anything in the line, given my horrible experience with his line. I have not smelled his creations for Zoologist, but hoped the fragrance brief and subsequent guidance and materials budget would foster a better product. One day I'll give them a try. (Or at least the one that remains in production.)
    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Ginger Zest de Citron:

    This one is very light. Very unlike Paul's other fragrances.
    Citrus, musk, vetiver all very light. There are some spices that are even more muted.
    Not bad but I see no reason to buy it
    Oh, amazing! Light?!?? . Again, this one hammered my nose in such ugly ways!!! I love ginger and citrus. I did not find anything remotely as beautiful and refreshing as either in this scent. Iirc, something even smelled boiled, which is such the antithesis of the energizing and bright aspects of both (alleged, lol) main elements in the fragrance. Hmmm. So curious to read how others sense it. I think this one was popular previously as well. Good job getting through all these samples, epapsiou! I know it's quite a few and I admire your stamina. Sniff on, my good man! .

    Thanks to all of you for your input and interesting posts! Hope time allows me to be back again soon.
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  14. #44
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Ginger Zest de Citron:

    This one is very light. Very unlike Paul's other fragrances.
    Citrus, musk, vetiver all very light. There are some spices that are even more muted.
    Not bad but I see no reason to buy it
    Papsi, I believe your last sentence summed up my overall experience with the house. Or at least it hits close to a similar line of thought I had... the ones that weren’t bad just didn’t give me a reason to buy.

    Arguably Maderas was the most artistic of the bunch, as the experience truly took me to a different place. Strong memories welled up, along with emotion. One one hand, that’s what it’s all about! Right? And that should be enough to purchase. However, there’s just no good moment in my life where smelling like the remnants of a forest fire fit in. The sample covers whatever experience I’d be interested in reliving, perhaps once a year or every other year.

    As a side note... I just discussed the line with my wife. She feels as though Modern Leather was the best offering, with a reference leather note for her that lasted for the first 10 minutes before falling flat. To her, the rest smell like, “hippy concoctions that we’re almost ok or just nauseating.” So there’s that, FWIW.
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    Papsi, I believe your last sentence summed up my overall experience with the house. Or at least it hits close to a similar line of thought I had... the ones that weren’t bad just didn’t give me a reason to buy.
    .
    I hear you. If I was starting my collection from scratch I would get a few from him. Supporting indie perfumer etc.
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Gold Leather:

    Very strong AC up top. Much more than usual. Smells like those newer nuclear Bogart orientals.
    I could not wear it for long and had to scrub it off.
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Carissa:
    Pimiento , burnt meat. Seems like half finished version of Red Leather.
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I hear you. If I was starting my collection from scratch I would get a few from him. Supporting indie perfumer etc.
    I love bold and creative fragrances, and I'm always looking for stuff that surprises me, what the average joe would probably define as "unwearable stinkers".

    That said, like in the wine world - where many crappy estates try to sell their wines using the "natural wines" umbrella (under which many amazing estate/winemakers are working and doing stunning stuff) - I have the feeling that in perfumery there are also several houses that use their "indie house" definition to hide their mediocrity and justify their low sale by a philosophy of "pleasure before profit".

    Any cook will agree that it is useless to create an amazing dish without being able to cook it - unless a professional cook prepares and adjusts it accordingly to make it eatable. Otherwise, why even open a restaurant? Like for cooking, perfumery is an art, and great results can only be achieved when the basic knowledge has been acquired - wherever it is, in a school or by one self. I think the fragrances of PK perfumes are stalling at a hobby-level perfumery in terms of blends, and would seriously need the services of a perfumer with proper technical knowledge.

    All that to say that I totally agree with your statement, but not anyone has unlimited budget, thus at some point choices have to be made. Even when ignoring the character, and focusing fully on the fragrances themselves, I think that there are much more interesting and promising indie houses to explore before this house. Let's keep in mind that PK perfumes are priced at $125 for just 2oz, and in my world, at that price, I expect the perfume house to deliver a masterpiece. PK Perfumes house is not remotely there yet imo.

    Obviously, everyone is entitled to have its opinion, but here, my exprience have been mostly negative, a rare thing, even if it also happened with other houses (yes, I'm looking at you, Byredo, Juliette and Commodity - but at least, with these, the blends were balanced).

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    OC - Limited Edition:

    I thought OC stood fro over clothes. SO i tried this on on a card. Just some cheap AC and some aquatic accord.
    Pass

    Pentecost:

    The opening is harsh. The rose in it is similar to ones in floor cleaner. Settles down to a linear synth fruit.
    Pass
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    This concludes my adventures with PK Perfumes. Thanks Cestrum for organizing this despite being super busy with life. I do miss your superposts.

    tl;dr:
    The fragrances are rough. The tops for most of them are to be avoided. But many do shine through at the end.
    Artistically - Red Leather and Velvet Chocolatier are really good and different but not something I could wear.
    For me DirtyRose Oud Extreme and Cafe Diem would be FBW if I did not already have similar stuff in my wardrobe.

    HouseKeeping:
    The pass will go on to IsoESuperman.
    Some samples have 5-6 sprays left but remember half spray is plenty. These are strong so be conservative .
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Cafe Diem:

    Opens with galbanum, incensne , amber, spices and musk. As it settles down I get some Hinoki and coffee too.
    It is right in my wheelhouse. Sweet and spicy incense.
    If you like CdG incense series or MadHat's Incenses you will like this one too.
    So far the best of the lot for me.
    This one sounds intriguing, can't say I'll enjoy it but the coffee note captures my attention.

    This sample pass might be a potentially rough one.
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    I actually had a browser tab open for the last couple weeks on my desktop for PK perfumes and was contemplating ordering some samples, and then I ran across this thread today. I’ll probably hold off on a discovery set, but I think I’d like to order some samples of some of the fragrances that have been noted on this thread not necessarily for their overall artistry, but those that have parts that get it right or nearly right - the near miss with the chocolate, the realistic smoke, etc. Sounds Iike there may be some skillful accords to be experienced here which is interesting to me.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
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    Hi again Back with some comments,

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    Papsi, I believe your last sentence summed up my overall experience with the house. Or at least it hits close to a similar line of thought I had... the ones that weren’t bad just didn’t give me a reason to buy.

    Arguably Maderas was the most artistic of the bunch, as the experience truly took me to a different place. Strong memories welled up, along with emotion. One one hand, that’s what it’s all about! Right? And that should be enough to purchase. However, there’s just no good moment in my life where smelling like the remnants of a forest fire fit in. The sample covers whatever experience I’d be interested in reliving, perhaps once a year or every other year.

    As a side note... I just discussed the line with my wife. She feels as though Modern Leather was the best offering, with a reference leather note for her that lasted for the first 10 minutes before falling flat. To her, the rest smell like, “hippy concoctions that we’re almost ok or just nauseating.” So there’s that, FWIW.
    That seems so true about something being nostalgic yet not being something we would want currently or have time or space for in our lives. It almost adds an extra layer of bittersweetness to whatever the memory. Interesting. (And as an aside, I loved how you wrote of this experience-- the line “However, there’s just no good moment in my life where smelling like the remnants of a forest fire fit in” was deliciously surprising and counter to what the previous lines would lead one to expect, yet of course made perfect sense and seems the only natural conclusion. Loved the contrast. Anyway, thanks for the enjoyable read.)

    Thanks also for adding your wife's impressions as well. It's always nice to hear what family and friends think or sense. I find that often surprising insights can come from our loved ones and those around us, despite usually being less interested in perfumes.

    This pass actually started with a funny exchange with my mom. The samples were in the original box on a spare room. I must say that the original pass was carefully assembled and PK had included decorated and scented cards with the sprays for each scent, all in a large, heavy plastic box. (I took everything out of the box for mailing ease and economy since sprays were sturdy.) This box and all the cards were very fragrant in the initial pass, and remained so. This whole thing was in a room well down the hallway from the room where my mom happened to be sitting. I walked from the spare room to my mom, apparently trailing *box* sillage. She immediately made a face and said, "Eww. What's that smell?" So I tried to look innocent and surprised and said "I don't know. Bad?" She was still making the face and nodded, so while trying not to laugh, I asked simply, "Chemical?" She replied yes, and I had to stifle what would have been peals of laughter. I had a hard time talking while looking at her face, knowing what was bothering her. Frankly, I was also somewhat embarrassed so I said something vague about cleaning products in the hallway. She agreed it smelled strongly like cleaning products. She was still making a face with her nose crinkled and a frown. My mom is pretty understanding (if not exactly supportive) when it comes to my perfume habits, but this little scented escapade would really not have impressed her.

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I hear you. If I was starting my collection from scratch I would get a few from him. Supporting indie perfumer etc.
    This is a wonderful sentiment. I think it’s great to support indie perfumers, and I try to do so as well. Anyway, if one likes something made by a small producer, it is good to jump on it, as the opportunity is not always available.

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Gold Leather:

    Very strong AC up top. Much more than usual. Smells like those newer nuclear Bogart orientals.
    I could not wear it for long and had to scrub it off.
    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Carissa:
    Pimiento , burnt meat. Seems like half finished version of Red Leather.
    I wonder if the impressions on these were somehow switched? Is that possible, e ? I only ask because the leathers did seem related and Carissa was horrifically strong to my nose, even as compared to the others. My memory was jogged and I remembered that I *did* wear this one on skin in the last pass. It was the first and only that got any skin time. I was unable to scrub it and it was just borderline traumatic, especially as I had such high hopes for it. I have loved the scent of Carissa flowers (aka Natal Plum) since childhood. I grew up with the flower. It is not uncommon in LA, we had a wide swath of it skirting the perimeter fence for fragrance and beauty, and also because it has large, tough thorns to deter trespassers. The flower is fabulous-- just five simple white petals but filled with the most gorgeous fragrance. It is like a clean, green jasmine and gardenia married perfectly. I was so excited to try this one. It was a huge disappointment. It was nothing like the real flower and harsh, headache inducing and industrial smelling. I thought it was strong enough and vile enough to be a commercial bathroom deodorizer-- would be great for some concentrated quaternary ammonium compound sold by the gallon to janitorial services. I am pretty sure it would make the actual flower wilt.


    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post
    I love bold and creative fragrances, and I'm always looking for stuff that surprises me, what the average joe would probably define as "unwearable stinkers".

    That said, like in the wine world - where many crappy estates try to sell their wines using the "natural wines" umbrella (under which many amazing estate/winemakers are working and doing stunning stuff) - I have the feeling that in perfumery there are also several houses that use their "indie house" definition to hide their mediocrity and justify their low sale by a philosophy of "pleasure before profit".

    Any cook will agree that it is useless to create an amazing dish without being able to cook it - unless a professional cook prepares and adjusts it accordingly to make it eatable. Otherwise, why even open a restaurant? Like for cooking, perfumery is an art, and great results can only be achieved when the basic knowledge has been acquired - wherever it is, in a school or by one self. I think the fragrances of PK perfumes are stalling at a hobby-level perfumery in terms of blends, and would seriously need the services of a perfumer with proper technical knowledge.

    All that to say that I totally agree with your statement, but not anyone has unlimited budget, thus at some point choices have to be made. Even when ignoring the character, and focusing fully on the fragrances themselves, I think that there are much more interesting and promising indie houses to explore before this house. Let's keep in mind that PK perfumes are priced at $125 for just 2oz, and in my world, at that price, I expect the perfume house to deliver a masterpiece. PK Perfumes house is not remotely there yet imo.

    Obviously, everyone is entitled to have its opinion, but here, my exprience have been mostly negative, a rare thing, even if it also happened with other houses (yes, I'm looking at you, Byredo, Juliette and Commodity - but at least, with these, the blends were balanced).
    Indeed, surprises and challenges are elements many here appreciate in a fragrance! I wholeheartedly agree with much of what you say. It seems like we had similar experiences. It is important to note that even if money were no object, we are all limited in the days we have here, and limited in how many fragrances we can squeeze into a day, so wanting a “masterpiece” or just something enjoyable and interesting, is entirely fair, and seems the only reasonable option. While I will sniff just about anything out of curiosity’s sake (and I do blind buy a lot of fragrances) I often find myself growing sick of sampling things in some cases due to this unless the samples are sort of “curated” by someone. Your post also brought to mind a comment made by Luca Turin, essentially saying that at some point he was trying to encourage the efforts of indie perfumers, sort of playing softball with reviews or assessments so as not to crush a fledgling operation or quiet the sort of buzz surrounding many of the new perfume houses. Of course there is the matter of taste and sensitivities with any fragrance, and if something smells good to one, then hopefully that is the case regardless of whether the producer is indie or part of LVMH or an ultra high end niche brand, but ultimately, I would think that the softball approach is of limited benefit in providing helpful feedback. Turin made these comments in light of the harsh reviews he meted out in the new guide, much to the consternation of some indie types who expected a shoo-in good review.

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    OC - Limited Edition:

    I thought OC stood fro over clothes. SO i tried this on on a card. Just some cheap AC and some aquatic accord.
    Pass

    Pentecost:

    The opening is harsh. The rose in it is similar to ones in floor cleaner. Settles down to a linear synth fruit.
    Pass
    I looked up the “OC” fragrance in the other pass. It stands for Orange County and I am not sure if it was ever produced. This sample was probably a work in progress, so to be fair, it should not be judged as a finished product. It is supposed to smell like the orange flowers and such that perfume the air in the real OC, which used to be all orange groves and the like. I think it was described as being a “masstige” perfume.

    Pentecost seemed more like Apocalypse to my nose. Lol… Actually, in my notes I wrote that “smelled like headache inducing carpet powder or similar product labeled with an overly optimistic and misleading name like “country bouquet” or “summer wildflowers” while it is really a nose searing chemical bomb.” So there’s my take on that one.


    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    This concludes my adventures with PK Perfumes. Thanks Cestrum for organizing this despite being super busy with life. I do miss your superposts.

    tl;dr:
    The fragrances are rough. The tops for most of them are to be avoided. But many do shine through at the end.
    Artistically - Red Leather and Velvet Chocolatier are really good and different but not something I could wear.
    For me DirtyRose Oud Extreme and Cafe Diem would be FBW if I did not already have similar stuff in my wardrobe.

    HouseKeeping:
    The pass will go on to IsoESuperman.
    Some samples have 5-6 sprays left but remember half spray is plenty. These are strong so be conservative .
    Thank *you* epapsiou, for getting this sample pass off to a running start, and for your always-insightful and enjoyable impressions and reviews. I’ve been working on this post for a week or something. Does it count as a monster post? Lol!

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    This one sounds intriguing, can't say I'll enjoy it but the coffee note captures my attention.

    This sample pass might be a potentially rough one.
    Hmmm, well, I think it really depends on the person. It was horrific for me. LOL. I was in the minority with the other pass, and many folks said great things. I just could not bear any of them and have no understanding of these and how they are supposed to smell, as my nose is nuked by them and similarly, I cannot fathom how anyone could wear them because my experience is so extremely negative. As they say, different strokes for different folks, there is no accounting for taste, and YMMV. Oh and let;s throw a “YOLO” in to be obnoxious, I hope it will be interesting for you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I actually had a browser tab open for the last couple weeks on my desktop for PK perfumes and was contemplating ordering some samples, and then I ran across this thread today. I’ll probably hold off on a discovery set, but I think I’d like to order some samples of some of the fragrances that have been noted on this thread not necessarily for their overall artistry, but those that have parts that get it right or nearly right - the near miss with the chocolate, the realistic smoke, etc. Sounds Iike there may be some skillful accords to be experienced here which is interesting to me.
    Hello! Thanks for posting. If you don’t mind waiting, we can add you to the tentative list of participants and see if you can have a shot at sampling whatever remains of this set. I really have no idea if there will be anything left at that point, but I remember sample passes where 1 ml went around to like 5-6 people, so I am guessing that there is a chance, especially given how potent these are. Most of the samples have quite a bit more than 1-2 ml. The unfortunate exception in your case is Violet Chocolatier, which seems to have evaporated a lot, so you would likely need to obtain that one to try it beyond just sniffing the sprayer or from the bottle. As far as “skillful accords” that you were interested in exploring, I would say perhaps also just do a search on the forums or look into the note exploration thread as well. As with anything perfume related, there is a lot of subjective personal taste as well as variation in individual sensitivity of course, but for chocolate, my opinion on the accord here is fairly low. I personally enjoy the chocolate/cocoa in Ore much, much more than this sort of watery, coco puff scent. Anyway, not trying to discourage you in the least, but there are a ton of fragrances that do chocolate or smoke wonderfully as well and you might find them worth examining also.
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    ~ Henri Matisse

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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Can I join the tentative list?
    The French have a phrase for it. The bastards have a phrase for everything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the blood on 530 27 View Post
    Can I join the tentative list?
    Yes, certainly! Thank you for your interest!
    Last edited by cestrum nocturnum; 24th August 2019 at 08:14 PM. Reason: deleted previously quoted text
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by cestrum nocturnum View Post


    I wonder if the impressions on these were somehow switched? Is that possible, e ? I only ask because the leathers did seem related and Carissa was horrifically strong to my nose, even as compared to the others. My memory was jogged and I remembered that I *did* wear this one on skin in the last pass. It was the first and only that got any skin time. I was unable to scrub it and it was just borderline traumatic, especially as I had such high hopes for it. I have loved the scent of Carissa flowers (aka Natal Plum) since childhood. I grew up with the flower. It is not uncommon in LA, we had a wide swath of it skirting the perimeter fence for fragrance and beauty, and also because it has large, tough thorns to deter trespassers. The flower is fabulous-- just five simple white petals but filled with the most gorgeous fragrance. It is like a clean, green jasmine and gardenia married perfectly. I was so excited to try this one. It was a huge disappointment. It was nothing like the real flower and harsh, headache inducing and industrial smelling. I thought it was strong enough and vile enough to be a commercial bathroom deodorizer-- would be great for some concentrated quaternary ammonium compound sold by the gallon to janitorial services. I am pretty sure it would make the actual flower wilt.
    I am sure they are not switched.
    One thing I noticed when I was sending pass away - there were two Carissa. One with a K I think. I did not try that. Maybe that is what caused this confusion. Maybe IsoE can help



    Quote Originally Posted by cestrum nocturnum View Post


    Thank *you* epapsiou, for getting this sample pass off to a running start, and for your always-insightful and enjoyable impressions and reviews. I’ve been working on this post for a week or something. Does it count as a monster post? Lol!
    This is indeed a great super monster post. Please keep them coming
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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I am sure they are not switched.
    One thing I noticed when I was sending pass away - there were two Carissa. One with a K I think. I did not try that. Maybe that is what caused this confusion. Maybe IsoE can help

    Again, how amazing that we perceive these so differently that I could even think that these reviews were switched! Lol. And I had a look at the list and the cards that I sprayed, and I think the second Carissa was actually Kairos. I don’t see a review of Kairos here, either. I hope you are not too disappointed that you might have missed it!
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    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    This is indeed a great super monster post. Please keep them coming
    We usually only get a few cestrum monster posts each year, this thread is making my day. Thanks for putting these out there, cn! Great to see you around
    ____

    Getting into these - what a giant pass. The box was actually kind of heavy, I think that is a first. I'm going to try to be concise (concise as I can be...) for the sake of expediency in moving these on to the next person. When I first opened the package, I was hit with a potent scent. None visibly leaked to any large extent (although Violet Chocolatier is nearly empty) but I haven't checked each and every baggie yet. I think some of these are just super strong with notable persistence.

    To that, I would suggest that folks do not use the paper strips contained within each baggie/sample bag. I do like when a scent has its own artwork and custom spray card, but these have spent quite a bit of time marinating in a PK vapor melange and are already quite scented before they are ever sprayed - I think spraying and trying to evaluate an individual scent on a card would prove misleading.

    As far as I know, the only work of Paul's I've tried prior to these is the original Rhinoceros from Zoologist. I quite liked it. I don't know if I tried the second version of Rhino that someone else did.
    _____

    Pentecost

    A fresh and friendly combo of a clean floral laundry smell plus light airyness from something resembling frankincense. Perhaps some clean/non-sparkly aldehydes in there as well. Vaguely woody/clean musk base. Can't pick out any specific florals. As it dries down something a bit fruity starts to peek out, kind of peachy to me. It's nice enough but not really grabbing me.

    After putting the strip down and coming back an hour later, it has changed a bit. A juicy/fresh blackcurrant is now mingling with the musk (reminds me quite a lot of that aspect of MFK Aqua Celestia, which I like). Interesting how that part wasn't even remotely detectable before. A slow burn chameleon.

    After typing up my notes I went back and looked at the reviews and pyramid (will be the methodology for all). I was surprised to see comments about "tons of rose" and grape juice and see tuberose and see cassia listed. Cassis + rose is a great pairing that I've enjoyed in other scents, but I didn't get anything resembling that here. Nor anything staunchly green. Perhaps whispers of some transparent greenness in the beginning, but I definitely don't consider this a green scent. I do get some blackcurrant/cassis, but nothing really rose-y.
    _____

    Carissa

    Potent. Immediately apparent as oriental in nature, with a very potent floral/resinous start. It smells like orange blossom and something else are combining and conspiring to smell like saffron/safranal, and I'm a sucker for saffron in perfumery so I'm liking it right off the bat. Although none of the suede aspects of saffron are present, hence my guess of a combo that tricks me into thinking saffron is there. If I inhale really deeply, there is a tinge of cooling menthol that isn't all that obvious at first glance. I'm assuming tuberose or some kind of methyl salicylate type of compound. The heady orange blossom recedes and a grapey/fresh jasmine starts in. Woods and resins are still present, I like the development so far.

    I also let this sit and came back to it. The base is more floral than oriental but still in floriental territory, at least as I recognize the borders of said lands. It is also a little fresher and less heavy. It still smells like non-sueded saffron to me.

    Looking at the notes/reviews, I see no saffron but I do see orange blossom and resins. Maybe I'll shoot Paul a message re: saffron, I'm curious why I seem to smell something so close to it.
    _____

    Ginger Zest de Citron

    Kitchen spice mix. Drier than the other two, highly aromatic, and not quite as potent but still high on the volume knob (not in a bad way, on paper at least). I smell something black peppery and something that reminds me of the smell of a jar of poppy seeds. In the first half hour, the only other things I can really identify, or rather guess at, are orange blossom (similar to Carissa but less heady) and something like a dry powdered yellow curry mix. Not powdery, but like a dry curry spice rather than the paste or a finished dish. And it doesn't have that immortelle tinge that seems to evoke curry in other fragrances. Oh, turmeric! That is a better way to put it. Not full-on turmeric like in Fazzolari's Feu Secret (which I love) but still turmeric-like.

    The mid/early dry down also has something resembling a woody vetiver accord. This, like the others so far, gets quieter as time goes on. But unlike the others, I don't find it super strong from the get go.

    Might be my favorite so far, but still not a love.
    _____

    Violet Chocolatier

    This one was nearly empty so I just did a baby spray. The atomizers are huge and have long tubes, so I would guess there is still maybe 3-4 more baby sprays left. If it wasn't obvious yet, you don't need much for evaluation - a little goes a long way.

    Potent. Does what it says on the can. Violet candies and dark chocolate right off the bat. Surprisingly not too sweet, given that combo. The chocolate accord is earthy and nutty, perhaps with some patchouli fraction support and something else earthy, although not a geosmin/dirt earthiness. I've made ice cream with nut butter before (...get your mind out of the gutter) and the texture of this perfume reminds me of running a knife through the hazelnut 'butter' which is much more of a large-particulate colloidal paste than something like creamy peanut butter. It's 'paste-y'. I kind of get a nod to old-school feminine violet perfumes, a la Guerlain although with a vastly different attitude and approach.

    As it dries a bit the violet that starts out floral and dry takes on greener and damper qualities, and almost kind of a dreamy/intoxicating/poisonous quality. It's something that catches my interest, but not something I'd prefer to wear. If anyone has tried Lush's Kerbside Violet, it is kind of like that but less glassy/green and more sultry than stark.

    Certainly an interesting endeavor and a surprisingly realistic take on recreating dark chocolate (or maybe he used the real thing?) but this isn't the type of scent I would enjoy wearing on myself for SOTD purposes. Admirable, though. Fun and admirable and maybe even impressive, but not something I want to wear.
    _____

    Gold Leather

    Potent. Apple juice, benzaldehyde, suede/safranal, lots of florals. What an opening, I feel like my head is spinning. I personally find it interesting but I could see others run screaming. Benzaldehyde is an almondy/bitter almond/semi-sweet compound and it smells like it is roaring here. I am no perfumer nor aspiring perfumer, I just like to sniff commonly used materials and attempt to look behind the curtain - for all I know, there is no benzaldehyde in here, but the first 10 seconds brought it to mind instantly and strongly.

    All I have sniffed so far are pretty strong, but this one takes the cake. I don't know what exactly might smell like apple juice, but there is an apple juice vibe well into the mid. This is, for me, one of those fragrances that wears you, not the other way around. The apple/suedey saffron vibe reminds me, ever so slightly, of Imaginary Authors Slow Explosions, but not nearly to the point where I'd confuse one with the other.

    Altogether too much for me, but it does seem complex and focused.
    _____

    Cafe Diem

    Not nearly as strong as the others. Soft and gentle (relative to his others and many fragrance in general) opening that smells like balsamic resins, conifers, a gentle incense smoke, and a fresh spiced/musky backbone. Maybe a touch of vanilla too. This is really nice. I don't exactly get a coffee vibe, at least not the typical American "ground arabica beans + milk" type of coffee. Perhaps there is some exotic Laotian equivalent that is loaded with spices and made with non-arabica beans. Let's go with that.

    As it settles, I think I can pick out cinnamon and cardamom. It is still soft, streamlined, and much more centered and mellow than the others I've tried so far. Definitely overtakes Ginger Zest de Citron as my favorite so far. At this point the incense accord reminds me of the "aldehyde incense" type, notably present in the CdG Incense Series, LAVS, etc. I like it quite a bit. This would make a killer autumnal fragrance. I can almost see the New England foliage turning in my mind. It probably helps that as I write this, it is a brisk 59F, the coolest morning probably all summer, and I'm sitting on a screened-in porch at a house in the middle of nowhere on 104 wooded acres, overlooking trees and the Wood River. Housesitting again, I wish I lived here.
    _____

    OC

    Another suedey/saffron-like fresh oriental. I don't know what I keep smelling saffron in so many of these. This is a fresher, more modern take on a strong oriental. At first glance at least. I'm finding some mild/non-skanky animalic aspects are beginning to creep out like 5min in. Leathery and rich, and kind of smells like a Zoologist. It's been a while since I smelled the original Rhino, but in my mind, there are some links between this and that...perhaps tenuous, but links nonetheless. There is a furry/earthy quality up against a fresh accord that I would expect to be jarring but for some reason isn't. It is approaching a calonic vibe, and maybe calone is used, but the other stronger aspects tamp any blatant aquatic qualities down.

    A sort of nondescript woody/clean musky skeleton seems to hold it together. I could see sandalwood and musk being listed as notes, although it doesn't smell like sandal to me. I keep coming back to it smelling like a Zoologist, which I have tried, I think, all of except maybe one or two, and many have this Zoo-ade to them (but not some of the light florals i.e. Nightingale) and this has that. An inky/dark/woody earthiness, and OC combines that with a leathery oriental vibe, as well as whatever freshness is present.

    This one had perhaps the most minimal development/chameleon effect. The top carries through the base, for the most part. It's okay but not something I'd wear.
    _____

    Kairos

    Smoky, savory, peppery. Tarry and woody opening, almost a BBQ'd meat smell although it doesn't bring either birch tar nor cade to mind. It almost reminds me of pimento loaf, or olive loaf, whatever that deli meat with olives and pimentos is. As it settles a little bit there is a briny green olive vibe, which probably brought my mind to pimento loaf. Almost irreverent in overall composition, this really smells more like a food item than it does a wearable perfume. I'm nonetheless intrigued by it, although I highly doubt I'd wear it. It is ballsy to be sure.

    Perhaps the most savory/briny/brothy fragrance I have ever tried. In the later dry down, a dark incense vibe starts to appear, but that smoky/briny vibe (not at all vinegary or unpleasant, it should be noted) keeps on keepin' on, and I genuinely get a kick out of it. I imagine if I were in Paul's shop (does he have one?) and he sprayed this on a card for me, I'd end up with a creased forehead and huge smile and say something like, "Are...are you out of your f***ing mind? Do people buy this?! I mean, it's rather fantastic, but I can't really see anyone wearing it."

    Falls into the category of "admirable and instant thumbs up, but I'd never, ever wear it." This deserves props for being out of control savory. Really fun to sniff.
    _____

    Okay one package down, one to go. So far, Paul's perfumes are super, super strong. To be honest I don't know a ton about his background/fragrant interest prior to becoming a perfumer, but I can imagine him being an enthusiast that was fed up with fragrances that petered out after a few hours and made it his life's mission to not only make them potent and persistent, but to make them interesting and left of center too. So far, Cafe Diem is the only one I could see myself wearing regularly, but I do applaud his approach and style of composition. Many do have a notable and somewhat drastic development, which is always something that holds my interest.

    Overall, none of these seems derivative or boring, which is always a plus in my book, even if I wouldn't wear them myself. He certainly has his own style that after trying a handful, I think I might be able to smell 5 samples blindly, one of which was a PK, and identify it as such.

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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    This has been a pleasant thread to follow. Good work to all. I love reading everyone’s take on scents. At least everyone that’s been a part of this pass (and previous ones).
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

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    Default Re: PK Perfumes by Paul Kiler Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post

    … This is indeed a great super monster post. Please keep them coming
    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    We usually only get a few cestrum monster posts each year, this thread is making my day. Thanks for putting these out there, cn! Great to see you around

    Oh, you two are too kind. I feel like I’ve got no good input on these, other than my complaints! Lol. Thank you both for the compliments, though!



    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post


    Getting into these - what a giant pass. The box was actually kind of heavy, I think that is a first. I'm going to try to be concise (concise as I can be...) for the sake of expediency in moving these on to the next person. When I first opened the package, I was hit with a potent scent. None visibly leaked to any large extent (although Violet Chocolatier is nearly empty) but I haven't checked each and every baggie yet. I think some of these are just super strong with notable persistence.

    To that, I would suggest that folks do not use the paper strips contained within each baggie/sample bag. I do like when a scent has its own artwork and custom spray card, but these have spent quite a bit of time marinating in a PK vapor melange and are already quite scented before they are ever sprayed - I think spraying and trying to evaluate an individual scent on a card would prove misleading.

    As far as I know, the only work of Paul's I've tried prior to these is the original Rhinoceros from Zoologist. I quite liked it. I don't know if I tried the second version of Rhino that someone else did.
    _____
    Wow, IsoE!!! You really power sniffed these!!! Good job! I was almost afraid you would be all done before I could even get over here to post! Thank you for the great reviews, as always! Reading them is killing me though!!! You make them all sound so…. Wonderful! Lol. If I didn’t know any better, I’d be dying to sniff them! How interesting that although you clearly find them potent, none so far seem to be offensively or painfully so.

    Oh, and good idea regarding the cards. I assumed they were pre-sprayed, and given the box sillage, that should have occurred to me, but it didn’t-- maybe because I feel so blasted by these in general. Lol.




    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post

    Pentecost

    A fresh and friendly combo of a clean floral laundry smell plus light airyness from something resembling frankincense. Perhaps some clean/non-sparkly aldehydes in there as well. Vaguely woody/clean musk base. Can't pick out any specific florals. As it dries down something a bit fruity starts to peek out, kind of peachy to me. It's nice enough but not really grabbing me.

    After putting the strip down and coming back an hour later, it has changed a bit. A juicy/fresh blackcurrant is now mingling with the musk (reminds me quite a lot of that aspect of MFK Aqua Celestia, which I like). Interesting how that part wasn't even remotely detectable before. A slow burn chameleon.

    After typing up my notes I went back and looked at the reviews and pyramid (will be the methodology for all). I was surprised to see comments about "tons of rose" and grape juice and see tuberose and see cassia listed. Cassis + rose is a great pairing that I've enjoyed in other scents, but I didn't get anything resembling that here. Nor anything staunchly green. Perhaps whispers of some transparent greenness in the beginning, but I definitely don't consider this a green scent. I do get some blackcurrant/cassis, but nothing really rose-y.
    _____
    Interesting… I did sense dryer sheet musk, but overall this one was really, uh, industrial smelling to me


    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Carissa

    Potent. Immediately apparent as oriental in nature, with a very potent floral/resinous start. It smells like orange blossom and something else are combining and conspiring to smell like saffron/safranal, and I'm a sucker for saffron in perfumery so I'm liking it right off the bat. Although none of the suede aspects of saffron are present, hence my guess of a combo that tricks me into thinking saffron is there. If I inhale really deeply, there is a tinge of cooling menthol that isn't all that obvious at first glance. I'm assuming tuberose or some kind of methyl salicylate type of compound. The heady orange blossom recedes and a grapey/fresh jasmine starts in. Woods and resins are still present, I like the development so far.

    I also let this sit and came back to it. The base is more floral than oriental but still in floriental territory, at least as I recognize the borders of said lands. It is also a little fresher and less heavy. It still smells like non-sueded saffron to me.

    Looking at the notes/reviews, I see no saffron but I do see orange blossom and resins. Maybe I'll shoot Paul a message re: saffron, I'm curious why I seem to smell something so close to it.
    _____
    I do wonder if there is some synthetic leathery element in the base (that reads as saffron to you) and that is in many of these. I suspected initially that there was a PK-ade in these that is intolerable to my nose as just about every single one was horrendous for me. (With possible exceptions of Violet Chocolatier and Cafe Diem, however I didn’t try them on skin.) What do you think? Might there be a common base?


    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Ginger Zest de Citron

    Kitchen spice mix. Drier than the other two, highly aromatic, and not quite as potent but still high on the volume knob (not in a bad way, on paper at least). I smell something black peppery and something that reminds me of the smell of a jar of poppy seeds. In the first half hour, the only other things I can really identify, or rather guess at, are orange blossom (similar to Carissa but less heady) and something like a dry powdered yellow curry mix. Not powdery, but like a dry curry spice rather than the paste or a finished dish. And it doesn't have that immortelle tinge that seems to evoke curry in other fragrances. Oh, turmeric! That is a better way to put it. Not full-on turmeric like in Fazzolari's Feu Secret (which I love) but still turmeric-like.

    The mid/early dry down also has something resembling a woody vetiver accord. This, like the others so far, gets quieter as time goes on. But unlike the others, I don't find it super strong from the get go.

    Might be my favorite so far, but still not a love.
    _____
    So interesting that you sense turmeric-- you probably know that ginger and turmeric are in the same genus. I wonder if turmeric was actually employed for depth and complexity or if ginger carries some of those familiar aspects in the scent profile as well since they are related. I have a little EO of ginger that lacks the gorgeous snappy citric fizz of real fresh ginger, but also has an earthy profile that now that you mention turmeric, may share some commonalities with that!

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post

    Violet Chocolatier

    This one was nearly empty so I just did a baby spray. The atomizers are huge and have long tubes, so I would guess there is still maybe 3-4 more baby sprays left. If it wasn't obvious yet, you don't need much for evaluation - a little goes a long way.

    Potent. Does what it says on the can. Violet candies and dark chocolate right off the bat. Surprisingly not too sweet, given that combo. The chocolate accord is earthy and nutty, perhaps with some patchouli fraction support and something else earthy, although not a geosmin/dirt earthiness. I've made ice cream with nut butter before (...get your mind out of the gutter) and the texture of this perfume reminds me of running a knife through the hazelnut 'butter' which is much more of a large-particulate colloidal paste than something like creamy peanut butter. It's 'paste-y'. I kind of get a nod to old-school feminine violet perfumes, a la Guerlain although with a vastly different attitude and approach.

    As it dries a bit the violet that starts out floral and dry takes on greener and damper qualities, and almost kind of a dreamy/intoxicating/poisonous quality. It's something that catches my interest, but not something I'd prefer to wear. If anyone has tried Lush's Kerbside Violet, it is kind of like that but less glassy/green and more sultry than stark.

    Certainly an interesting endeavor and a surprisingly realistic take on recreating dark chocolate (or maybe he used the real thing?) but this isn't the type of scent I would enjoy wearing on myself for SOTD purposes. Admirable, though. Fun and admirable and maybe even impressive, but not something I want to wear.
    _____
    Mmmm, I need a drooling Homer Simpson gif for your ice cream! If you used any cocoa in your hazelnut butter ice cream, please don’t tell me. I will have an insatiable craving otherwise, lol! As for the fragrance description, geez louise, I am so envious that you and epapsiou had such lovely experiences of it! I would have greatly enjoyed sampling something that smelled to me the way you two describe this one. The laundry musk or whatever might be in it just overpowers my nose. And did I mention how I looooooove violet? And chocolate. Lol. I did sense some chocolate in that one, but strangely, it was so much like the coco puff cereal smell that it was very unimpressive to me. Did you sense any similarities to the 4160 scent that e also mentioned as another good chocolate in the same ballpark? I recalled I enjoyed that one quite a bit, and the chocolate there was rather delicious.
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse




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