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  1. #31

    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    I'll join Team Cartier if we're focused mostly on recent releases.
    Welcome aboard. Cartier just seems to be out there doing its own thing. Which is good.

    Dior and Chanel and Hermès just got a bit lazy. There seems to be no real creative drive motivating their releases; they have their big hits and don't feel pressure to seriously invest in the mainstream the way they did before. They can continue to promote the old stuff via ongoing advertising or new flankers and weakly those niche dollars with exclusives.

    For a change, I'd love to see one of these brands really come out of the gates swinging. They have the resources to do it.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    YSL and Gucci used to be stars in this kind of discussion, but they absolutely ravaged their lineups, which I'm still sad about.
    And then there's Givenchy. Sigh.
    The Brooks Otterlake Swap Thread

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  2. #32
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Guerlain always comes first.

    Peace out, mic drop.
    The French have a phrase for it. The bastards have a phrase for everything.

  3. #33
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    I’m not familiar with mainstream brands/ commercial line, so all I have is some vague impression.

    Guerlain is something else. You can’t really put into a particular genre. It’s everything, everywhere.

    Then if we restrict to commercial line (not include niche line), Chanel and Dior are two consistent major players. They are always present.

    Hermes is already great before JCE, but mostly out of certain...inertia, like “we’re Hermes, we have to get straight As in everything we touch”; and JCE has brought a style to this house.

    YSL had its moment when Opium and Kouros came out.
    The French have a phrase for it. The bastards have a phrase for everything.

  4. #34
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I think the best days of Dior and Chanel are likely behind them, too.
    I kind of agreed. I maybe wrong, but it looks like they don’t aim to be “trend setter” or “ground beaker” any more, but that’s just my opinion.
    The French have a phrase for it. The bastards have a phrase for everything.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by the blood on 530 27 View Post
    I kind of agreed. I maybe wrong, but it looks like they don’t aim to be “trend setter” or “ground beaker” any more, but that’s just my opinion.
    Yep.

    I think the "trendsetter" house with the most clout right now is Tom Ford, which hasn't released anything market-altering in a bit but has a market position that even Creed must be envious of.

    I think the age of the omnipresent designer is coming to a close. Even in the mass-market, "boutique" houses will become dominant.
    The Brooks Otterlake Swap Thread

    Autumn Favorites
    Aramis Special Blend, Aramis Tuscany per Uomo, Guerlain Héritage EDT, Guerlain L'Instant Pour Homme EDT, Lalique Hommage à L'Homme, Michael Kors Michael for Men (vintage), Odori Tabacco, Perfumes of the Desert Pinon, Tom Ford Noir Anthracite

  6. #36
    Super Member the blood on 530 27's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Yep.

    I think the "trendsetter" house with the most clout right now is Tom Ford, which hasn't released anything market-altering in a bit but has a market position that even Creed must be envious of.

    I think the age of the omnipresent designer is coming to a close. Even in the mass-market, "boutique" houses will become dominant.
    Agreed. Thierry Mugler is another candidate, but this one is more of a maverick type.
    The French have a phrase for it. The bastards have a phrase for everything.

  7. #37
    Dependent
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Guerlain and Caron were wonderful back in the day. I only buy their vintage stuff.

    CHANEL was also amazing, but the current versions of their classic stuff are all way too quiet and short-lived.

    Dior has done some interesting fragrances (that they then discontinued).

  8. #38

    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Dior, Chanel and Mugler come to mind. YSL also have many great scents.

    Other houses might not have loads of great fragrances but pretty much every mainstream house has at least one worthy fragrance to add to your collection...except for maybe Diesel.
    Currently wearing: Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

  9. #39
    Super Member BruceB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    The thread is not quality related only (what this brand use to be, etc)
    Its also about availability.
    A balance of quality and popularity I think.
    Best,
    BruceB

  10. #40
    Super Member BruceB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceB View Post
    The thread is not quality related only (what this brand use to be, etc)
    Its also about availability.
    A balance of quality and popularity I think.
    Best,
    BruceB
    On the other hand, I have to disagree with the idea that Chanel and Dior are not doing very much.
    In these days, everyone is trying to move forward and faster than the others.
    They keep their classics and in a very good way.
    Thats quite a gesture if you ask me.
    Antaeus, Eau Sauvage, Number 5, Egoiste, etc. Its incredible that you can get one bottle of those in almost every parfumerie around the globe.
    They are like Hitchcock: A master that achieved a wide range of popularity for the masses and the respect and praise of intelectual elites.
    Best,
    BruceB

  11. #41

    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    I am not sure I can ever forgive Dior for Sauvage
    On the other hand they did bring us the joyous Dior Homme range -- Hedi Slimane is my hero.

    Where is he now?Celine?

  12. #42
    Super Member BruceB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    On the other hand they did bring us the joyous Dior Homme range
    Agree

  13. #43
    Super Member BruceB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    PS: I love Chanel and Dior.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Mainstream houses

    For me, it's Guerlain and Chanel out ahead as far as kept-up quality of their classic line-ups, and Chanel gets credit for some high-quality, intelligent releases in recent years (No. 5 Eau Premiere, No. 19 Poudre, some of the new Exclusives). With both houses the sense of expensive, high-quality ingredients is quite strong, whatever techniques they're using to maintain the effect. I have little doubt both rely on some pricey materials, while also cutting corners in other ways. It's the result that counts, for me.

    I'd put Hermes in a similar category. I think they come next on the list, both for their classic line but if anything, their new releases are arguably more interesting than Chanel's or Guerlain's (I'm thinking of stuff like Galop and Twilly, both distinct and smart). But the Hermes fragrance collection as a whole is very, very strong.

    Glad others are mentioning Cartier, because it's still underrated. Declaration continues to roll my eyes back whenever I wear it, and L'Envol is still underrated. I recently came around to Pasha, too, which is a great option for anyone interested in a sandalwood-founded fresh fougere.

    But as far as Dior ... man, what a heartbreaker. They've done right by Fahrenheit recently, as that fragrance is back in good shape, and I can still buy the fantastic Dior Homme and Eau Sauvage at Sephora. It wasn't long ago they were releasing outstanding, brave concoctions like Leather Oud and Eau Noire, but alas, it's pretty clear that time has passed. As others have said, their recent moves have all been very disappointing, from the bland new Prive releases, to the (from what I understand) gutted classic feminines, to, worst of all, the cynical chemical dreck that is Sauvage. Very sad stuff all around. Sure, they're still active and doing something; but what Dior is doing now has nothing to do with luxury or daring, and everything to do with crass commercialism. Fine as far as it goes, but not what the brand built its reputation on.




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