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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Celtic Moss

    My second Spirit Bear test---I enjoyed this robust, dense composition very much. It’s a bit like a modernized hipster Bandit, skewing towards a traditional masculine scent profile. I find most of the hipster niche brands go in for overdoses of WAC, often leading to fairly linear and boring compositions, but Celtic Moss evolves in a much more natural and satisfying way.

    Celtic Moss opens with a tangy vegetal bite (with perhaps some bergamot, some galbanum?). Soon, a complex and vividly animalic aura begins to radiate from my skin. I seem to perceive the warm halitosis of ambergris or civet along with a faintly urinous funkiness that may be hyraceum. In its early phases, Celtic Moss reveals a bracingly peaty oakmoss base along with gusts of pine or cypress so that the overall effect definitely calls to mind a deep, dark green forest. Celtic Moss lasts several hours. In the very late drydown, the wood base come to the foreground, and I get a good deal of cedar in this final phase and perhaps a little labdanum.

    Celtic Moss reminded me quite a bit of Bogue’s Maai, and so I did a quick side by side comparison. The resemblance in the early phases held up, although Maai is more powerfully animalic, with more evident floral notes. Maai has a definite mothball tuberose note, and so I began to wonder if there were any flowers in the Celtic Moss forest. Perhaps a bit of that tuberose? For me, Celtic Moss suggests a forest much more vividly than either Fille en Aiguilles or Nuit Etoilee, in which the pine/conifer topnotes are subsumed by warm, sweet woody basenotes.

    Looking back at my compadres’ notes on Celtic Moss, I see Bavard mentioned a menthol note. I can definitely see why this might be suggested, but for me, the overall effect was more coniferous or possibly camphoraceous (like Tiger Balm). NCalFragranceReviewer compared Celtic Moss to Rogue’s Mousse Illuminee. Once again, I am relying on mere memory and testing notes, but I would categorize Mousse Illuminee as a mossy fougere, and Celtic Moss as an animalic chypre. Both contain oakmoss, but Mousse Illuminee wears down to a rather warm mossy, vetiver, and white musk base, while Celtic Moss weaves a darker, more powerful spell of aromatics, animalics, and woods. It's very bracing and enjoyable to wear. Brava!

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Chypre:

    Took me 3 days to understand this one. The first day it smelled like old style chypre with heavy labdanum base (like Grayspoole described). But the next time I tried it was different. Very Animalic for an hour and then a chypre with minimal labdanum.
    So I had to try a third time to be sure and here is the final verdict.
    A good old style chypre with animalics. I like this twist on traditional chypre. The moss and citrus are more prominent than labdanum. In fact I do not get much labdanum at all. I can see why Bavard compares it to the vintage Avon masculine chypres - they too were light on labdanum and I concur with that observation of his.
    It is FBW though longevity could be better.
    Cook.Bot will love this a lot.
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  3. #33
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Chypre:

    Took me 3 days to understand this one.
    I had a general feeling of being in over my head with these fragrances, especially Chypre and Celtic Moss, as if I need to grow into them.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Chypre:

    Cook.Bot will love this a lot.
    You have my attention.

    It's interesting that you'd observe I prefer my chypres to be light on labdanum, because I never really thought about it myself. But by golly, I believe you're right. Just looking at the ones in my September signature, there's very little resin in any of them. Eagle-eyes Papsi.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    I've been enjoying the testing comments and am chiming in here because Lellabelle was very nice and sent me some vials to try Today I tried Spirit Bear Chypre, and since the comparison to the Rogue Chypre-Siam has been made a number of times here I'm wearing that on my opposite hand. The opening of Spirit Bear is darker to me than the Rogue and it teleports me directly to the forest floor. There is a particular quality that I am recognizing from a couple very vintage fragrances that I have. What I mean is that there is an antique quality to the mossiness that I instantly recognize (from a very intense, dark c. 1940ish Mitsouko extrait I have). I'm not able to pick out the top notes mingling with the oak moss.

    I think the less prominent top in the Spirit Bear Chypre combined with the quality of this moss makes me believe that if I tried this blindly I would swear it was a very old vintage perfume. I wish I could communicate this better, but I love the effect of this vintage heart. I've knelt down in this shady spot near the base of the oak and dug my fingers into the blackish brown earth, pulling it up in handfuls as it breaks apart into moist clumps full of decaying leaves and tiny deep root hairs. This earth has not seen sunlight for a long time.

    There is some leather and cork coming in. In a dampish cellar the walls are moist and alive. A dusty bottle yields a stained, slightly crusty and fragrant cork. The notes are very blended but there are hints of a very tannic, very alive (wood, leaves, leather, animals) youth.

    As this is drying down I am getting a slight lifting and some pleasant tartness - perhaps vetiver as was mentioned by N.CAL. There is some slight sea saltiness at the tail end in the Rogue that is also present in the Spirit Bear, but only slightly.

    Next I'll be trying the Celtic Moss and am excited to see what the moss will be like in that fragrance!
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Lellabelle was very nice and sent me some vials to try
    That is nice. I enjoyed your write-up on Chypre.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    It's interesting that you'd observe I prefer my chypres to be light on labdanum, because I never really thought about it myself. But by golly, I believe you're right. Just looking at the ones in my September signature, there's very little resin in any of them. Eagle-eyes Papsi.
    Labdanum or labda-not, that is the question...(sorry!)

    Interesting to think about this point. I also enjoy greener chypres in which labdanum is absent or light, but I also enjoy compositions that feature the resin. It’s a fairly assertive note, complex, sweet, pungent in its natural form, and I think my nose really latches on to it. Hope it is actually in there, and I’m not off base in saying so.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That is nice. I enjoyed your write-up on Chypre.
    Thanks

    Today Celtic Moss-
    It is overcast in my area today, and yesterday I saw the first leaf drop of the season. I’m trying Celtic Moss and it seems to be providing the perfect smellscape to the wooded view out my window. It is difficult not to find a narrative, and easier for me to relate to this fragrance as such.

    This is not as dark and peaty as the Chypre. - In addition to the mossy woods there is a lighter, nose-tingling aromatic up front and rising which lifts the moss along with it for a time. I know this aroma - I’m examining a frosted glass gem that clings to the bark of an old forest tree. Wanting to have it for my own I try to pull the blob loose only to have it collapse like sticky soft-set taffy onto my fingers as it releases a huge whiff of sappy tree essence . Celtic Moss smells like Fall in the woods - cool but not cold, the slight dampness and intermittent warming of everything outside causes a fairly unified exhaling of smells. As the aromatic note fades, a very lovely and natural, old dry moss becomes more prevalent and is accompanied by the refreshing sharp fragrance of drying yellow-green wild grasses. I recently stuck my face in a drawer of raw vetiver (it was awesome) and it smells very much like that, although not as intense. I would like to hear more of this story.

    I enjoyed this fragrance. For me the overall effect is very natural and introspective. The strength was good and I will be doing more wears experimenting with oiling/moisturizing my skin prior to application to see if I can extend the fragrance longevity, which was short as is often the case with naturals.

    Thanks, Lellabelle, for generously sharing your work.
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  9. #39
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Chypre:

    Took me 3 days to understand this one. The first day it smelled like old style chypre with heavy labdanum base (like Grayspoole described). But the next time I tried it was different. Very Animalic for an hour and then a chypre with minimal labdanum.
    So I had to try a third time to be sure and here is the final verdict.
    A good old style chypre with animalics. I like this twist on traditional chypre. The moss and citrus are more prominent than labdanum. In fact I do not get much labdanum at all. I can see why Bavard compares it to the vintage Avon masculine chypres - they too were light on labdanum and I concur with that observation of his.
    It is FBW though longevity could be better.
    Cook.Bot will love this a lot.
    You ought to try Rogue Chypre-Siam as its quite similar to Chypre but with a stronger ambery/oriental base. IMO Chypre-Siam has better performance.
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    You ought to try Rogue Chypre-Siam as its quite similar to Chypre but with a stronger ambery/oriental base. IMO Chypre-Siam has better performance.
    Yes I did and I agree with your assessment.
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  11. #41
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Celtic Moss:

    Again had to wear a couple of days to get it. It starts with an accord that grayspoole describes as "vegetal". I agree and I think it is the rooty earthiness of Vetiver and some patchouli. The menthol that Bavard gets (and I do too) is probably from the Patchoul. It soons sheds the rootiness and becomes a good vetiver fragrance. On dry side - somewhere between fat electrician and Guerlain's Vetiver. The menthol accords stays for a while.
    A good Vetiver fragrance with a disctinct style. FBW for all vertiver lovers.
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  12. #42
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    CC:

    TO me this is a straight forward masculine/woody chypre of the 70s. Like the SB Chypre, less labdanum and more citrus+oakmoss.
    I do not get any animalics in it like I did with Chypre.
    I like it and reminds me of vintage masculine Avon chypre.

    Update: Now I get some animalic funk (at 8 hr) mark
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  13. #43
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Hello!

    I’ve been testing the remaining samples off and on without having the time to really focus on them. Put on a bit, wander off into my day, and then realize that I haven’t sniffed or taken notes. Time to get down to it, so here are some quick takes on two more Spirit Bear creations...


    Amore

    Amore opens as a haunting indolic floral. There’s bergamot and a floral accord/ingredient that is registering as mostly jasmine with me, perhaps with ylang ylang (don’t think it’s tuberose) but I suspect there is more to it. Rather soon, this resolves into a resinous base that features some gorgeous, natural-smelling olibanum. If it were somehow possible, I would love to experience Amore’s floral phase in an amplified and extended form, because it is really lovely. But then I am a fool for BWF (big white florals).

    C&C

    This opens as a tart, jaunty, masculine-leaning cologne/chypre (but it is absolutely nothing like a modern sport cologne). Reminded me of a good gin & tonic with a twist. The hesperidic top suggests lime or neroli to me, and then some warmly rounded animalic elements begin to emerge on the skin, civet perhaps. The animatlc profile is subtle and no way as sharp or as vivid as the hyraceum note I picked up in Celtic Moss. Gradually, the tart opening begins to shade into a labdanum basenote, with some lingering tartness/bitterness that may be oak moss. I still get a juniper berries/quinine vibe, but perhaps I am just craving a G&T. I feel as though Lellabelle was aiming at something like Jicky here, without the vanilla, and I look forward to learning more about it.

    I enjoyed testing both of these Spirit Bear scents. They do not have powerhouse sillage or longevity, but their naturalness makes up for that.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Amore:

    It starts with the same rooty vetiver as Celtic Moss. But that changes very soon and it becomes a spicy sweet fragrance -
    with three main notes Cardamom+Incense+Vetiver in a sweet base. I do not get any floral note here.
    There is not much change after middle. The cadamom subsides after few hour and you get a woody incensey smell.

    The best of the lot so far and FBW.
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  15. #45
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Amore:
    It starts with the same rooty vetiver as Celtic Moss. But that changes very soon and it becomes a spicy sweet fragrance -
    with three main notes Cardamom+Incense+Vetiver in a sweet base. I do not get any floral note here.
    There is not much change after middle. The cadamom subsides after few hour and you get a woody incensey smell.
    The best of the lot so far and FBW.
    What an interesting contrast to Grayspoole's experience of it. One no florals, one almost all white florals.

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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    What an interesting contrast to Grayspoole's experience of it. One no florals, one almost all white florals.
    The subjectivity of smell, proven once again. I found Amore to be mostly jasmine and frankincense, and I was greedily asking for an even bigger floral presence.

    I am so eager to hear Lellabelle's description of these compositions, although I would say that knowledge of the ingredients should never overshadow one's primary experience of the scent. (My argument against ingredient essentialism...)

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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    What an interesting contrast to Grayspoole's experience of it. One no florals, one almost all white florals.
    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    The subjectivity of smell, proven once again. I found Amore to be mostly jasmine and frankincense, and I was greedily asking for an even bigger floral presence.

    I am so eager to hear Lellabelle's description of these compositions, although I would say that knowledge of the ingredients should never overshadow one's primary experience of the scent. (My argument against ingredient essentialism...)
    It is curious . It is my SOTD and I keep trying to see if my nose can smell white florals. It is not up to the mark
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  18. #48

    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    The subjectivity of scent, indeed! Fascinating that you both had such different perceptions of it. Naturals can be curious little shapeshifters, and the way they express can be quite different from person to person. This is quite a difference though! Very interesting.

    Temperature, and skin temperature can be a factor, as well as absorption on drier skin, and differences in what other scents you may have been wearing recently that may have lingered (as fragrant ‘ghosts’ . Not to mention that our perceptions change depending on our hormones, body chemistry, environmental factors and so on.

    I have a suspect for what I think you’re both perceiving, quite differently, though it’s hard to know for sure given the difference! As Greyspoole so rightly points out, knowledge of the ingredients tends to shape perceptions, so I’ll hold off on commenting for a little longer yet, to give Cestrum and Zealot a chance to sniff! All perceptions are valid, and testing blind is fun for precisely this reason. I’m grateful for the feedback you are sharing
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    CC:

    TO me this is a straight forward masculine/woody chypre of the 70s. Like the SB Chypre, less labdanum and more citrus+oakmoss.
    I do not get any animalics in it like I did with Chypre.
    I like it and reminds me of vintage masculine Avon chypre.

    Update: Now I get some animalic funk (at 8 hr) mark
    For me it was all in the opposite order. The animalistic accords were out and about in the opening but faded away by the time the scent reached the dry down. The dry down had the solid mossy base.
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    As Greyspoole so rightly points out, knowledge of the ingredients tends to shape perceptions, so I’ll hold off on commenting for a little longer yet
    Oh, well played. This is a fun thread, a little blind sample pass-esque.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    For me it was all in the opposite order. The animalistic accords were out and about in the opening but faded away by the time the scent reached the dry down. The dry down had the solid mossy base.
    For the moment I will call this Camel Chypre until the perfumer decides upon a more poetic name.
    This scent as it macerated softens and reveals a quiet evolution of Citrus, Wood and Moss.
    At opening I feel and scent the bloom of single leading Floral. Whether this is Tuberose or Jasmine, I fail to identify, however it's bloom is both natural and intoxicant. It recedes quickly, having this scent strongly reminiscent of deep, Cedar and Mossy Forest. This canvas suggests as Masculine. It is dark, dry and Autumn with dampness rising. I find it a pleasing mood mirroring scent to wear at this time in the Northwest. This scent combines very agreeably with my natural Masculine Musk. Is it a mild touch of dry Castoreum with it's vanilla that smooths?
    The perfumer has suggested that given time the animalic and indols will.become more prominent.

    Later
    A spritz just now had my head blown back by the Citrus counter pointing a rather intoxicating Fruity Floral bloom. The carving of woodiness is represented by a drier hardwood sawdust vs the Incense of Cedar. This current opening round is far more dramatic than previous and suggests the scent could appeal to feminine more than I previously experienced.
    The dry down seems more balanced than before. White Floral and incense Cedar-ish suggest an elegant cleanliness snd grooming. As I have mentioned before to the perfumer, of Amore, a sense of the Medici.
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  22. #52

    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Lol... Camel has released the proverbial kitten from the bag... “CC” was an acronym for “Chypre Camel” (or “Chypre Caramel”). That likely gives some insight to the note choices

    It has some aging to do, and will smooth out and soften with a little time to bloom. It is, indeed, an animalic Chypre. The masculine/feminine tension Camel perceives in this is interesting: there is castoreum in this, a note often associated with masculine, and one I’m rather enamoured of. I’m curious if my choices have given it a developing feminine balance. Unintended, at a conscious level, and something I shall reflect on. I’ve always felt that the best Chypres have something sensual to them. I expect each of these samples offers as much a mirror to me, as it does for the intended recipient.

    It is definitely Chypre weather here at the moment. And, Camel, the naming rights are all yours!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Camel Chypre is crazy enough it might work.

    It leans masculine to me.

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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Hello everyone! I’m sorry that I am late to the party, but I’m so excited to be here! First off, a big thank you and hug to Lellabelle for so kindly and generously sharing her beautiful creations with me, allowing me to join and indulging my oakmoss fiending.

    I have not tried these on skin yet, but am dying to do so. I just wanted to quickly do a sniff on paper and share preliminary impressions so that I won’t hold things up here too much longer. I did a random grab of samples and I have avoided reading this thread.

    Amore:

    Sniffed from vial: Green, vegetal, almost celery like and salty with an almost rooty mineral facet and something like sarsparilla which could also be root beery myrrh.

    On paper: Light cinnamony spice and cedar, then clear bright lemony frankincense. Some pink pepper after a bit, rounded out with something vanillic but probably not vanilla-- maybe tonka or possibly peru balsam (also would lend cinnamon aspect?) Possibly some cat pee urinous note, but mostly a clear frankincense through and through. Reminds me of Cardinal or a CdG. Vetiver comes out and is woody, dry and clean. Dry down continues with strong vetiver and frankincense. It is rather potent on the card, and reminds of Guerlain Vetiver in green ribbed bottle, and almost makes me think of Iso E super and Terre d’Hermes, but much nicer.

    I really enjoyed this one and would say its FBW despite not giving it skin time yet, Unisex for certain and would likely smell great on my mister, too.


    Chypre:

    From vial: Animalic moss. Smells like a critters fur in a primeval forest, laden with green saps, resins and plenty of animal funk. Very excited to smell more.

    On paper: Dirty green opening, earthy, rooty stinky in a good way like valerian. Animalic, celery greens but with a fresh edge highlighting the whole thing, like something almost minty. Leathery, not floral but with an airiness, perhaps not much patchouli grounding things. Evolves more with something soapy but against the sharpness of an animalic. The green of the moss is forest like and enveloping, again with a salty mineral aspect. Drydown is cleaner, still a bit leathery and fougere like. Very classic and I think many would find it masculine at this point.

    This was also very good, thus far! I enjoyed it a lot, and it is different from many chypres in my collection, being quite leathery and lacking much noticeable floral, at least on paper. I felt like this one will put forth more when warmed on skin. I felt like it was tight and remained unopened on paper. I look forward to seeing if it blooms fully on skin.

    Celtic Moss:

    From vial: Cold, shaded green forest, conifers, moss floor.

    On paper: Moss and conifers. Pine. Lightly smoky, cool menthol and maybe camphor. A leathery animalic note comes in strongly. It is heavy and my lungs feel weighed down, and throat feels somewhat like it’s closing in the back. Relief comes in the form of a cool wintergreen type note. It is still smoky, but I don’t think it’s a wood fire-- more like coal burning far away. The cool feeling continues with green and woody vetiver. The distant fire goes out and smoke dissipates, now a charred smell becomes evident. The drydown retains the green moss but it is mostly overtaken by earthy, mineralic soil.

    This was a very interesting scent. It was so evocative of a cold forest to me. I’m not sure I like it for myself personally, especially with the strangely oppressive feel the animalic note had for me. It wasn’t even particularly strong, but I must be sensitive to it. We shall see how it goes on skin.



    Beekeeper’s Daughter:

    From vial: Sweet mead like nectar of the gods! What wonderful thing is this???

    On paper: Opens sweet, nectar like and vanillic. This buzzing blast is almost discombobulating, but in a good way. Then honeyed, bubble-gummy jasmine reveals itself. A leathery, indolic aspect pops the sweet bubble, and brings lovely depth. There may be some urinous civet, or possibly it’s the honey note going in that direction as it is apt to. This feels like an opulent A la Nuit, The floral is still center stage, but develops an almost bright, beachy feel (for a lack of a better description), like monoi or the salicylates in suntan lotion. There seems to be something almost lemony, but in a way that makes me think of limonene, sort of a removed from nature citrus. Some hay like note is lightly in the background, the sweet coumarin possibly from lavender also. As it evolves, the vanilla grows stronger and sweeter, but is tempered by the leathery, band aidy note of an animalic, possibly musk of some sort. The sweetness here never becomes cloying, always staying interestingly dirty, and dry. The dryness in the late phase seems reminiscent of the smell of old paper, powdery vanillic scented lignin breaking down. Surprisingly, a peppery, smoky,inky vetiver becomes evident and shocks me such that I wonder if I had a dab of something else on my nose this whole time! It again adds interest.

    This was my favorite thus far. I am a huge sucker for florals and jasmine especially. Can’t wait to try on skin, but another I would easily deem FBW. I could also imagine this being polarizing, due to the sweetness, indolic jasmine and honey/civet/urine.


    I am almost done sampling, at least on paper! I am really looking forward to wearing these. I just hope that I will be able to give each the time and attention they deserve!
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  25. #55
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Hello! I'll be working on my sample pack soon, I've just been reducing the amount of things I test lately due to my asthma issues this summer, but things are getting better under control now.
    oh look, I have a signature
    Currently wearing: Aramis by Aramis

  26. #56

    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    We’re back!

    Thanks to everyone who has been working behind the scenes to recover the lost threads! Much appreciated . Hopefully we can merge the new thread with this at some point, though I believe most of the content is here.

    Thanks everyone.
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  27. #57
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    CC
    Today this is named Compliment Chypre.
    My partner says just now
    " You smell wonderful"
    I ask " What do I smell like"
    Her nostrils flare and she says
    "Like a Sexy Man"

    I'm quite enjoying the Animalic in this. As this develops the sharp edges are softening and sweetening.
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

  28. #58
    Always be smelling

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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    Yay.
    Just wore beekeeper daughter a couple days ago.
    My coworker liked it a lot.
    I have to wear it again to understand bit better.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    With the original thread back (hooray!) I am posting my comments on the last sample--Beekeeper’s Daughter.

    I usually don’t like sweet perfumes, but I shouldn’t have worried or saved this sample for last. This is a lovely, comforting, slightly smoky, honeyed and resinous perfume that is not too sweet. It offers some gentle, rounded florals (jasmine? osmanthus? ylang ylang?) that are not indolic to my nose. The base suggests myrrh, benzoin, and Peru balsam to me. I don’t perceive anything especially animalic here, just the slightly bitter, undertone and sueded texture that one gets when smelling a jar of dark honey. I was quite thankful indeed not to perceive the urinous whiff of some perfumes with honey notes because I find those difficult to wear in public (eg. Paco Rabanne La Nuit for women). Beekeeper’s Daughter reminded me a little of Hiram Green’s Slowdive, but Slowdive is more floral overall.

    With my Spirit Bear testing now complete, I will provide my ranking...

    1. Celtic Moss
    2. Amore
    3. Beekeeper's Daughter
    4. Chypre
    5. C&C

    I thought all of the samples were very well done and enjoyable to wear. I look forward to reading more impressions of these.

  30. #60
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    Default Re: Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

    It may take a little longer for me to provide a ranking in regards to Spirit Bear Perfumes.

    CC was presented to me , by the Perfumer as Bespoke and as a tool to understand her view of Chypre. She said very clearly, that it is a base to which I could offer suggestions to suit my own ideas and tastes. Bespoke indeed. I have found over the past few weeks that CC has softened and revealed accord's that are reminiscent of some of my faves Woody Chypres ex Bel Ami, Etienne Aigner and others.
    As a standalone scent CC offers me a fine canvas as a base much as a carefully managed Demi-Glace. On it's own a sense of the Medici.
    Proof of it's integrity is how it supports and billows flavorings.
    Dots of Gardenia, Jasmine and Rose Absolutes with the CC as base prove integral
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.




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