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  1. #1
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Lightbulb How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    You know that a perfume is well-blended, has good/high quality ingredients relative to its price point and that it smells good if not great. However, it just doesn't jive with you for one reason or another - maybe doesn't fit your taste or sartorial style, or you find it too stuffy, or you have some negative association, or it has a note that you don't care for.

    Would you downgrade your rating/review, or would you factor out your taste/bias and review it acknowledging that you are not the target audience?

    Sometimes I face this problem when trying to rate/review perfumes; typically in these cases I'm torn between a (high) neutral or a (mild) thumbs-up. For me it is easy to leave out most factors except for one case, which I'll illustrate using an example. I'd take Rose Flash or La Fumee Intense - I think either one is well-made, has good quality ingredients, adequate sillage and presence, and smell good. However, I wouldn't wear them as there are stuff I like more. In these cases I find it very hard to decide how to rate/review.

    I know it's simple - it either smells good or it doesn't, ignoring everything else. However, even in this case, there are those ones that 'nearly' smell good. If you are categorising into negatives, neutrals and positives, how do you go about it?

  2. #2

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    We all have so many preconceived notions of a smell because of scent association, so I think it's probably impossible to be completely subjective. That being said, just because a scent is not pleasurable to you does not mean it is a bad scent. I would attempt to factor it out as much as possible.

  3. #3
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    We all have so many preconceived notions of a smell because of scent association, so I think it's probably impossible to be completely subjective. That being said, just because a scent is not pleasurable to you does not mean it is a bad scent. I would attempt to factor it out as much as possible.
    In case you missed it, I've expanded on my original post to be a bit more clear about what I'm referring to. Personally, pre-conceived notions are hard to dismiss when reviewing (note that this doesn't extend to purchase decisions where I'm more biased, naturally ....), but when it comes to how something actually smells, and I can't make up my mind between a neutral and a positive.

  4. #4

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    You know that a perfume is well-blended, has good/high quality ingredients relative to its price point and that it smells good if not great. However, it just doesn't jive with you for one reason or another - maybe doesn't fit your taste or sartorial style, or you find it too stuffy, or you have some negative association, or it has a note that you don't care for.

    Would you downgrade your rating/review, or would you factor out your taste/bias and review it acknowledging that you are not the target audience?

    Sometimes I face this problem when trying to rate/review perfumes; typically in these cases I'm torn between a (high) neutral or a (mild) thumbs-up. For me it is easy to leave out most factors except for one case, which I'll illustrate using an example. I'd take Rose Flash or La Fumee Intense - I think either one is well-made, has good quality ingredients, adequate sillage and presence, and smell good. However, I wouldn't wear them as there are stuff I like more. In these cases I find it very hard to decide how to rate/review.

    I know it's simple - it either smells good or it doesn't, ignoring everything else. However, even in this case, there are those ones that 'nearly' smell good. If you are categorising into negatives, neutrals and positives, how do you go about it?
    I try to be fair and will celebrate fragrances that don't really fit with my personality (I think Luciano Pavarotti is masterpiece-tier, but it's too dandy-ish for me), but, in the end, I'm always going with my gut. You have to embrace your own idiosyncrasies.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    If I really like a high quality fragrance but I don't think it suits me, I would still rank it very high. Though it could keep me from giving it an extra star if I deemed it not good enough to wear.
    There are some fragrances that I just do not like, despite being considered classics and are loved by many but I still think they are pretty bad. Not a poorly made fragrance but yet I still don't like it at all, even if I never plan on wearing it, then it wouldn't receive a very good review.
    "Ducks eat for free at Subway."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  6. #6

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I’ve found that if a fragrance does everything right - quality, notes, style, smells good, everything but has one note that feels off, like a plastic-y smell, it will be a miss because its in essence unwearable for me. I can’t give it a positive. Depending on how much of a miss might push it over the edge from a neutral to a negative ...but it cuts both ways. There have been times that a fragrance has a number of flaws, quality may be lacking slightly but there is just something moreish about it or it just has that something, that charisma that is utterly charming that could take it from a neutral into positive territory.

    I rarely give formal reviews though and my opinions are usually forum posts or when chatting with friends.

    Ultimately its difficult to be entirely objective about something so completely subjective...but we try.
    Currently wearing: Santos by Cartier

  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I generally wouldn’t give it a rating, and any review would be limited to forum posts.
    Generally I try to express those points in my comments and let people know that my perspective is skewed because it doesn’t click with me because of the style of a single note or something.
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  8. #8
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    You know that a perfume is well-blended, has good/high quality ingredients relative to its price point and that it smells good if not great. However, it just doesn't jive with you for one reason or another - maybe doesn't fit your taste or sartorial style, or you find it too stuffy, or you have some negative association, or it has a note that you don't care for.

    Would you downgrade your rating/review, or would you factor out your taste/bias and review it acknowledging that you are not the target audience?

    Sometimes I face this problem when trying to rate/review perfumes; typically in these cases I'm torn between a (high) neutral or a (mild) thumbs-up. For me it is easy to leave out most factors except for one case, which I'll illustrate using an example. I'd take Rose Flash or La Fumee Intense - I think either one is well-made, has good quality ingredients, adequate sillage and presence, and smell good. However, I wouldn't wear them as there are stuff I like more. In these cases I find it very hard to decide how to rate/review.

    I know it's simple - it either smells good or it doesn't, ignoring everything else. However, even in this case, there are those ones that 'nearly' smell good. If you are categorising into negatives, neutrals and positives, how do you go about it?
    My reviews are a chimera of humor, anecdotes, cynicism, and sometimes historical context wrapped around a nugget of objective (as possible for me) analysis. With that having been said, it comes down to how it makes me feel, and things well-built but not to my taste get high neutral to mild thumbs up, just as with you. I do tend to lean towards thumbs up if my disdain is mild but the scent is quality. I only go high neutral if it just stumbles once too often in some tangible way or is just bland in a way that's impossible to ignore.
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    Currently wearing: Quorum by Antonio Puig

  9. #9
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    You know that a perfume is well-blended
    I still don't know what this means.

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    has good/high quality ingredients relative to its price point
    I rarely consider price.

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    it smells good if not great. However, it just doesn't jive with you for one reason or another - maybe doesn't fit your taste or sartorial style, or you find it too stuffy, or you have some negative association, or it has a note that you don't care for.
    Neutral.

    Thumbs up, for me, roughly equates to, "I like it."

    Neutral: Don't really like it that much.

    Thumbs down: Pretty much dislike it.

    I often tend to prefer straight opinion pieces over reviews showcasing other peoples' opinions: "This perfume is well regarded," "Luca gave it lots of stars," etc.

    If I'm on the fence about something, I think about if I would realistically wear it. If I think I wouldn't ever wear it because there's so much other stuff I like so much more, I'd probably give it a neutral. I give a lot of neutrals.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I try quite hard to not let my own personal preferences be the deciding factor in my reviews. I would never in a million years wear Shalimar, but I think it is a stunning and wonderfully crafted scent, so I gave it a definite thumbs up.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Example in point for me - Cuir de Russie from Chanel literally smells like I changed my baby's (now toddlers) diaper and accidentally got some of the fecal matter on my skin. It has a baby poop note, and a strong one at that when I wear it on my skin. On paper - totally different story. On someone else - absolutely magical.

    Same with Bois de Iles - my hormones or personal something or other changed after my last pregnancy. I can't stand it when I wear it anymore, but love smelling it on someone else. I still have a decent sized sample and sniff it often.

    When I test I usually spend time with the perfume equally on my skin and on paper for that reason.
    Something something....something....

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  12. #12
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Not sure I'm answering the question the way the OP wanted, but what I would say is - I can most certainly respect the high quality of a fragrance and the love given to it by others, and have no qualms trying it and singing its praise if warranted, but if in my mind and according to the way I think about fragrances, if it does not meet my personal criteria for a fragrance that's a keeper, it will always fall short.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  13. #13
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Assuming the original points (a fragrance that is well-blended, sold at a fair price, made with high-quality ingredients) - if I don't like it, I just don't review it.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Because I read otherís reviews and then become familiar with who has similar and different tastes than my own, I will occasionally use certain users reviews to decide if I want to try something or not. For that reason, itís based on my personal preferences towards a fragrance, not any larger perception of what it is or should be to others. I feel like that is more helpful if someone identifies as having similar or differing tastes than my own.
    Currently wearing: Hugo by Hugo Boss

  15. #15

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Most fragrances smell good and a lot of work has been put into them in one way or another. I don't care what the "quality" of ingredients are. I don't factor in price. I don't usually even factor in if I get allergic reactions to it, but I would mention it if I write a review.

    I give ratings based on 1 how well I think it smells (or how well I think it might smell to me on someone else), and 2 how much I'd like to wear it if I could. That's it as far as positive/neutral/negative.

  16. #16

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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    l think we have to be honest about the fact that opinions are subjective, & l try to avoid being swayed by the opinions of others. lf l don't like a fragrance, l'm not going to give it a positive, no matter how well-regarded it is by others, & l'll always explain why in my review. And l write a review for every fragrance that l try on skin, whether l like, love or hate it. Negative or neutral reviews are sometimes even more useful to others than positive ones.

    There are times when l will give a positive rating to a fragrance that isn't my style, because l can tell that it's beautifully made & a fine example of its genre, Mousse llluminee being a case in point. But mostly l'll give a neutral to something l'm on the fence about, & if l hate it, l won't hesitate to give it a negative rating.

    l should add that a big part of the reason l write reviews is as a memory aid for myself. That way when a fragrance is being discussed, l can look back & remind myself of what l thought about it. After trying several hundred fragrances, this has proved useful for me on a great many occasions.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  17. #17

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    This general topic reminds me of movie reviews, and people who try to rate movies based on "Objective facts" or something like that rather than their subjective experience (or trying to judge how well they or some particular person could've subjectively experienced the movie in a particular mood etc).

    People are more and more falling to the disease called glorification of human reason. It is quite a dangerous disease and it has spread like mad for the last few hundred years. Most people are suffering from it without knowing it. People start applying a certain framework of thinking (that makes sense in one area) to all kinds of things because "I'm such a rational person", "magnets and microwaves and stuff". Universal principles don't exist except in narrowly defined ways. Rationality is largely a joke, and human ability to think rationally is very small. What is often seen as rationality and intelligence is mostly just egotism, hubris and novelty-seeking. Including this post, not to be taken too seriously, lest you fall to the disease I described (which will end the human race due to low birth rates and massive currency inflation as a result, and the future human-like creatures will be more like Chimps than us).

    Perfume certainly is one of the things I find extremely subjective. Not to say there aren't things people generally prefer in smells, which is what I mean by "most perfumes are well-made" in the sense of trying to appeal (often successfully) to various people (often many at once). Of course one could try and be very precise in measuring perfume in some near-objective way, but then it wouldn't be clear what the criteria are and how to apply them in making a decision on a rating for a perfume review, and it might not be useful information as far as people wanting to wear perfume is concerned.

  18. #18

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I think that's the beauty of opinions - everyone's different, and no one can claim to be 100% objective when judging a fragrance due to innate biases and even genetic differences. I don't think anyone should censor themselves and praise a fragrance for being well made if it is not to their liking, even if it's well regarded in the community.

  19. #19
    everyday i'm samplin'
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I try to remove myself. Example, Jicky. Smells like old women and babies. But, it does seem to be quality. Smells more composed than the average grab from the womens section. I went Neutral. For me, personally, that would be a thumbs down. Not my thing. I would not wear that. But I'm sure it is hard to be objective all the time.
    Itís tragic to think that heroic manís great destiny is to become economic man, that men will be reduced to craven creatures who crawl across the globe competing for money, who spend their nights dreaming up new ways to swindle each other.

  20. #20

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I would prefer a five-star system of rating -- just a thumbs up isn't very nuanced

    The question could be turned on it's head of course --- what about those cheap, rough around the edges, poorly structured fragrances that smell fucking great?

  21. #21

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    The question could be turned on it's head of course --- what about those cheap, rough around the edges, poorly structured fragrances that smell fucking great?
    What does that mean tho? Rien and Portrait of a Lady? (No joke. I'm sure some reviewer wrote something akin to POAL being for gold-digging women without teeth. And so on. I like both of those tho just to be clear.)

    I guess tho you mean more something akin to my impression of A*Men, which I think is a complete disaster of a fragrance composition, so many competing notes that are very strong and conflicting, but where it smells really really good at times if you just don't think about it too much. Some parts of it are genius, but it's still a disaster overall to me and I highly recommend throwing it in the bin or keeping it for novelty. Yeah I changed that one from a positive to a negative once I wised up to how horrible an impression it can give.

  22. #22

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by Heawns View Post
    What does that mean tho? Rien and Portrait of a Lady? (No joke. I'm sure some reviewer wrote something akin to POAL being for gold-digging women without teeth. And so on. I like both of those tho just to be clear.)

    I guess tho you mean more something akin to my impression of A*Men, which I think is a complete disaster of a fragrance composition, so many competing notes that are very strong and conflicting, but where it smells really really good at times if you just don't think about it too much. Some parts of it are genius, but it's still a disaster overall to me and I highly recommend throwing it in the bin or keeping it for novelty. Yeah I changed that one from a positive to a negative once I wised up to how horrible an impression it can give.
    Yeah -- not really ELdO or Malle fragrances so much, but more the A*Men, Alien Woman, Ted Lapidus, Bogart, Carven, Banana Republic end of the market where sometimes the fragrance feels a bit like a 'car-crash' of discordant notes but the 'whole' smells fantastic. It's hard to explain and I'm not an expert.

  23. #23

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    Yeah -- not really ELdO or Malle fragrances so much, but more the A*Men, Alien Woman, Ted Lapidus, Bogart, Carven, Banana Republic end of the market where sometimes the fragrance feels a bit like a 'car-crash' of discordant notes but the 'whole' smells fantastic. It's hard to explain and I'm not an expert.
    Yeah I think I know what you mean.

    So far I've found the higher-end houses tend to make the "discord" work better. Fragrances like Rien by ELDO, HdP Petroleum, or even Music For A While from Frederic Malle. Those are fragrance with weird combinations of things but that smell "unified" to my mind/nose. Can't say the same thing about A*Men. I guess a lot of designer level scents do suffer from being "a lot of things all at once" and it might be appealing at first but after a while it can loose some (or all) of its charm.

  24. #24

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by Heawns View Post
    Yeah I think I know what you mean.

    So far I've found the higher-end houses tend to make the "discord" work better. Fragrances like Rien by ELDO, HdP Petroleum, or even Music For A While from Frederic Malle. Those are fragrance with weird combinations of things but that smell "unified" to my mind/nose. Can't say the same thing about A*Men. I guess a lot of designer level scents do suffer from being "a lot of things all at once" and it might be appealing at first but after a while it can loose some (or all) of its charm.
    I know what you are saying, but, for me, that is more of a 'contrived' discord -- sort of showing off what can be achieved, which is commendable of course.

    But, take Bogart Pour Homme for example- it has a feeling of being thrown together in 5 minutes, chuck some 'cherry' in there and 'tobacco' in there. It has a kind of rough 'unfinished' feel to it and is as cheap as chips. It smells fab to me though.

    Sorry, OP for going off track, I think?

  25. #25
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Iíve thought about this and concluded that itís not worth overthinking the up/down/neutral.

    If you wish to share your impressions via reviews, then as long as your written impressions are truthful and honest thatís all that matters to me. Even at that, thereís no way for me to determine the sincerity of an isolated review. Itís the sum of all reviews, however, that matters more to me than any single one or twoÖ generally. And once Iíve had a chance to smell those I want, Iíve found that, once again, the bell-shaped curve works: a sliver of the review population meshes well with my impressions; a sliver are polar opposite; most fall somewhere in between with varying degree of similar/different perceptions. Surely, this is not unique.

    Right or wrong, I assume review readers possess a modicum of intelligence and are quite able to discern those reviews written by Ďjust a regular guy with something to sayí (like me) from someone with, say, classical training in perfumery that just might have an aptitude for and put forth a more objective perspective. Itís pretty obvious when someone tries hard at the latter but just doesnít seem to have the bona fides. Yes, charlatans exist. Itís all good though.

    In the end, each day, and for but a period of time, we wear what we want. We do the same the next day and the next. However one goes about determining what they put on, most likely will have little to do with the up/down/neutral of any given review. Case in point, I will likely wear Dunhill Blend 30 tomorrow even though one of my favorite reviewers gave it a yellow card, more or less panning it as a fleeting fart, lol!
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    Currently wearing: Blend 30 by Dunhill

  26. #26
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    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    What if *everyone* thought something was well-made and of fine quality, but everyone also thought it was "not for me" ?

    I'm not sure I'd want to see an overall "thumbs up" for something that most people didn't personally like.
    Currently wearing: Potion by Dsquared2

  27. #27

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I like it but for X reason it doesnít suit me = THUMBS UP

    I donít enjoy it but I can appreciate its artistry /execution = NEUTRAL
    This sums it up perfectly, for me.

    "It's not for me, but it's a great example of XYZ that fans of the style will love" - is a great thing to call out in reviews.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  28. #28

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I try to judge based on the quality of the ingredients, execution of the blend, creativity, and practicality. That said, I never penalize a scent because it doesn't appeal to my personal taste. I try to be as objective as I can.

    I only give thumbs down if the scent is offensive, very poorly made, or high-priced and just a blatant rip-off for the quality.

  29. #29

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    Compare it to food.

    If you didn't like sushi, could you review a sushi restaurant's food properly? Not really.

    It is better to be honest, because if you don't like something it is every bit as valid as anyone else's review.

    Giving an opinion is fine, whatever that opinion is.

  30. #30

    Default Re: How would you rate/review a perfume if .....

    I understand that different reviewers would have different personal systems for giving neutral vs. up ratings so I consider that when I'm reading. The up, down, neutral thing is a forced choice similar to psychological questionnaires designed to diagnose pathology and I don't see such a forced choice as useful in the context of fragrance reviews. I think it is not an appropriate system and agree with a previous poster that a five star system would allow an informative place between the neutral and up. I think I would find Turin's guide much less informative and useful if all he used was the up, down, and neutral indicators.

    As far as reviews go-
    I'm not very long into the serious fragrance hobby as compared to most here on BN. When reading reviews I generally look first at the bar that gives the percentages of up, neutral, and down ratings, and then scroll through to see if Ican find any of my "scent twins" that I have identified by reading posts. It is particularly helpful when people include the vintage and formulation because of the huge differences in fragrance notes that can exist between say, an extrait and a cologne of the same fragrance name. This is frequently an expensive source of frustration when trying to gauge what exactly is being reviewed and what I formulation I decide to try.

    Also helpful is the qualifier that hi lights the most notable aspects to consider - "If you like (woody, resinous, green, etc.), then you will probably like this", which helps the reader judge the fragrance review against their personal tastes to make a determination whether the fragrance might be worth trying. Reviews that rely almost entirely on describing the fragrance through direct comparisons to other fragrances (the top is like X, the jasmine is like Y) are less helpful to me as I may not have that olfactory reference available.

    I enjoy those reviews that give some history and context to the fragrance being reviewed and appreciate the up, neutral, down rating as being given as an art critic might rate a work - based on its historical significance, innovation, influence, mastery, or other qualities that set it apart from the herd. This satisfies the nerd in me an expands my fragrance education.
    ĒI want all the perfumesĒ




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