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  1. #1
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    Default What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Sampling for me started out purely as a practical means to find out which fragrance I would want to buy next. Over the past year or so, I discovered the joy of sampling as a means in and of itself. Besides the fact it's just fun to smell all these little "time capsules" it is also a great way to get a better understanding of fragrances, and to put them in a broader context. So right now I see myself shifting from buying only samples of fragrances I possibly also want to buy, to buying samples to get a better understanding of what was out there in the past, and to be able to frame and contextualize certain fragrances.

    I'm interested to know what others on here are sampling right now, and what the purpose of sampling (vintages) is to you?

    All that being said, yesterday I received a new batch of vintage samples to try, so I will post comments on these over the next few days.

    IMG_20190906_150004 (1).jpg
    * Minis where all full, photo is taken after I decanted them in little pray vials.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Kicking off myself, I started with Eau Sauvage yesterday. I have the current version, and what I love most about that one is the very bright and sparkling opening. My expectation for the vintage where the same bright and sparkling opening but with a more robust and mossy dry down. I was rather surprised that I didn't get the bright and sparkling opening at all. I don't know if the top notes of my mini just weren't there anymore, of if this is just an aspect of the old Eau Sauvage?
    I entered straight into a mossy base that reminded me immediately that this is indeed a Roudnitska creation (an association I don't really have with the current version). I gathered similarities with vintage Diorella I have, but I have to say I find the latter superior to my Eau Sauvage sample. All in all really interesting to finally try the vintage version, but for the top I would prefer the current one I have to say and for the heart/base I see myself reaching for Diorella before this one.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    ES, especially with any type of splash or dab bottle, seem to have lost top note luster... in my experience. I’ve just had better success with sprayers. Not that good splash examples don’t exist.

    Regarding vintage sampling... my sampling usually comes down to people sending me stuff to try that I’ve not gotten around to or that they think I’ll enjoy. I will also purchase a mini or sample of something expensive, so that I can make sure it’s something I really want before dropping big bucks. Otherwise, I just end up looking for full size spray bottles of whatever I’m interested in. If I change my mind on something, I can always swap or gift it away. My personal method of trying stuff certainly isn’t the best or most cost conscious.

    I do believe sampling is a great means to try stuff. Especially if you’re not trying to building a vintage collection. Sampling satisfies the curiosity itch, let’s you test things before spending, and, perhaps even more importantly, gives you an experience that lets you broaden your ‘scent memory’s library’. It’s great to read someone’s take on something and then have a reference point to see if your tastes align with what they’re saying and so that you can apply that knowledge towards future acquisitions. It also just helps so much with understanding discussions.

    I’ll be curiously following your thread. And I enjoyed reading your perspective.
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    All in all really interesting to finally try the vintage version, but for the top I would prefer the current one I have to say and for the heart/base I see myself reaching for Diorella before this one.
    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post
    ES, especially with any type of splash or dab bottle, seem to have lost top note luster... in my experience. I’ve just had better success with sprayers. Not that good splash examples don’t exist.
    Yeah, I've had some ES with exhausted tops, too. They just don't seem to be very durable over time. For some reason, vintage Diorella holds up better.

    My vintage sampling these days often comes down to negative aspirations -- hoping I'll dislike some highly vaunted icon just so I don't have to ponder shelling out the big money for it.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Long live vintage minis! I think they're a great way to sample otherwise expensive stuff. I usually pay nor more than $13/per. The only real issue I've ever had with them was buying a lot of Antaeus Sport minis that were filled with modern Pour Monsieur. Beware of those, Diddy and Epapsiou can attest. Sorry, guys!

    That's a nice lot you got there. Haven't tried Open or Balafre but like the majority of the others. Tenere and Esencia Loewe especially.

    In the mini world, I recently picked up:

    Jil Sander Feeling Man
    Gucci No.3 parfum
    Fendi Uomo
    (maybe not so recently?)

    And probably some others. I absolutely get the love for Feeling Man. A nice tonka/lavender fougere with a subtle balance of sweetness and aromatics. It's also a better than average mini bottle - it has an actual splash top like you'd see on larger bottles, as opposed to that tiny tapered opening that either nothing or too much comes out of. I tried Jil Sander Background, also from a mini, a while back and that one did not click with me at all. It seems to have almost equal love, but I thought Feeling was miles better and more original.

    Gucci No.3 is a masculine/unisex mossy chypre masquerading as a feminine release. Anyone can wear this thing, and moss lovers would surely enjoy.

    Fendi Uomo would probably be well received by anyone who likes Bel Ami. Similar oriental leather type of old-school masculine, equally smooth and rounded.
    Currently wearing: Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

  6. #6
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Chanel No. 19 Parfum, 1970’s, and it is fantastic.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  7. #7
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    I think mini's are great indeed! For some reason they are super cheap here. From the lot above I only paid more than five euro for Lancome Balafre, the others where al between 2,5 and 5.
    Today I tried Armani Eau pour homme, and I really liked that one. A great juicy bergamot/mandarin opening, drying down to an elegant woody/spicy base. Longevity and projection where moderate and maybe on the low side but that kind of adds to the understated elegance of this scent. This scent gives me the same aura/feeling as Eau de Guerlain (which I consider a masterpiece), so that is a huge compliment. I have to test this one further, but can imagine wanting a FB of this some time in the future.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diddy View Post

    I do believe sampling is a great means to try stuff. Especially if you’re not trying to building a vintage collection. Sampling satisfies the curiosity itch, let’s you test things before spending, and, perhaps even more importantly, gives you an experience that lets you broaden your ‘scent memory’s library’. It’s great to read someone’s take on something and then have a reference point to see if your tastes align with what they’re saying and so that you can apply that knowledge towards future acquisitions. It also just helps so much with understanding discussions.

    I’ll be curiously following your thread. And I enjoyed reading your perspective.
    Thank you for the input, and I completely agree with this bit!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Long live vintage minis! I think they're a great way to sample otherwise expensive stuff. I usually pay nor more than $13/per. The only real issue I've ever had with them was buying a lot of Antaeus Sport minis that were filled with modern Pour Monsieur. Beware of those, Diddy and Epapsiou can attest. Sorry, guys!

    That's a nice lot you got there. Haven't tried Open or Balafre but like the majority of the others. Tenere and Esencia Loewe especially.

    In the mini world, I recently picked up:

    Jil Sander Feeling Man
    Gucci No.3 parfum
    Fendi Uomo
    (maybe not so recently?)

    And probably some others. I absolutely get the love for Feeling Man. A nice tonka/lavender fougere with a subtle balance of sweetness and aromatics. It's also a better than average mini bottle - it has an actual splash top like you'd see on larger bottles, as opposed to that tiny tapered opening that either nothing or too much comes out of. I tried Jil Sander Background, also from a mini, a while back and that one did not click with me at all. It seems to have almost equal love, but I thought Feeling was miles better and more original.

    Gucci No.3 is a masculine/unisex mossy chypre masquerading as a feminine release. Anyone can wear this thing, and moss lovers would surely enjoy.

    Fendi Uomo would probably be well received by anyone who likes Bel Ami. Similar oriental leather type of old-school masculine, equally smooth and rounded.
    Lol. We win some, we lose some. I also found some Antaeus Sport minis filled with hairspray, Antaeus, and actual Antaeus Sport. Then I acquired a 50ml. And sometime later, thanks to a friend here, acquired another 50ml splash that I have still sealed.

    I’ve never tried Feeling Man or No. 3 but have wondered about them, and so appreciate your comments on them. I almost jumped on No.3 simply because of reading comments of how it was similar to Nobile, but then backed off when a trusted nose informed me that it wouldn’t fully satisfy my Nobile itch. So I just bit the bullet and got me some Nobile. Itch, scratched. Fendi Uomo is a great fragrance. I get the reference you’re making towards Bel Ami but do find Uomo to be slightly darker and perhaps mustier(?), but yes so smooth. It has that Italian styling handling it, which I enjoy so much. It’s a fragrance that every time I wear it I always think that I should be wearing more.

    Thanks for your comments.
    Sent from the bayou, using homing gators.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    It was the vintage Guerlain Heritage for me today. I have full bottle of the current stuff which I rate very highly, so I was very curious for a vintage version. First thing I would like to say is how happy I am that Guerlain at least keeps a high standard at their reformulations. I'm in the camp that thinks the Guerlain brand has greatly declined since in the hands of LVMH and with Thierry Wasser as a nose, but I got to give props for their reformulations of the classic line. Sure, these also suffer from IFRA restrictions but I think they did a great job on Vetiver, Habit Rouge and also Heritage.
    Back to my sample, in my opinion the DNA of the vintage one is the same as the current version. Where the vintage version stands out, is that I have the feeling the opening "popped" a bit more on my skin, and especially the dry down was a bit smoother. This was all after really focusing on differences though, and also putting some current stuff on for comparison. Just from catching wafts in the air, I doubt if I could keep them apart.

  11. #11
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Sampling this month...

    Lucien LeLong Tailspin (it is old bottle from 1960s)
    It is a delight of green and spice notes, and odd rose/gardenia combination.
    I am saying this but it so well blended, difficult to really tell much apart.
    It almost smells like the progenitor of Czech and Speake's No. 88.
    But No.88 has a humidity, a times claustrophobic which Tailspin doesn't.

    Dior Dioressense (this bottle is late1998-2000)
    I love this behemoth of a chypre. It is simply majestic.
    They just don't make this kind anymore. Even Chypre Palatin or Maai are a whimper in front of this thing.
    The notes are so harmonious--the aldehydes, oakmoss, carnation, Gawd knows what else-- it makes you pause.

    A thing of beauty is a joy for ever:
    Its loveliness increases; it will never
    Pass into nothingness...

  12. #12

    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    I love mini’s and I also look for 1/8 - 1/4 oz Parfums if the vintages are too old to be in minis.
    My sampling is pretty random and every fragrance is just a gateway to a bunch of others. Lately I’ve been sampling Corday, Lelong, and D’Orsay for some of their lesser known fragrances.

    I’m also doing some vintage Avon for women because I got an Avon Lady sample set with about a dozen scents from the 50-60’s. In a couple days I’ll be getting a “Mini Quartette” Faberge sample set from 1960ish with Tigress, Woodhue, Act IV, and Aphrodisiac.

    I love and own a number of Guerlain, Chanel, Dior, and the like, but some of these other houses are a fun way to explore with some economy.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  13. #13
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by wildrnesxperienc View Post
    Chanel No. 19 Parfum, 1970’s, and it is fantastic.
    The parfum concentration of No 19 is magical.
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    Currently wearing: Habit Rouge by Guerlain

  14. #14
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Tried Paco Rabanne Ténéré yesterday evening and was pleasantly surprised.
    I'm really not familiar with Paco Rabanne scents, and this mini was thrown in for free when I bought my others. I think I only sniffed current PR Pour Homme once in the store (green fougere, just not really my style) and once received a sample of One Million which I threw away after trying it once as I thought it was one of the most obnoxious things I ever smelled (that hideous bottle design didn't help either).
    Ténéré I did really enjoy though. To me it came across as a masculine honeyed fruity/floral, something I was searching for last spring but couldn't really find. The vibe of this reminds me a bit of Caron's Le 3eme Homme, but I think Ténéré suits me a bit more.
    Longevity of Ténéré is also really impressive. Applied it yesterday evening around 20:00, and it was still clearly perceivable when I woke up this morning. I think this would make a perfect leisure time scent for spring.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Just received a wonderful package of unusual vintage samples from Earlyn, my fellow explorer in the forgotten fields of obscure vintage perfumes...with dates of original launch:

    Dana Totem (1939, not the 2003 masculine)
    Millot L’Insolent (1947)
    D’Orsay Intoxication (1938)
    D’Orsay Voulez Vous (1960)

    Can’t wait to try these. Thanks, Earlyn!

  16. #16
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    Tried Paco Rabanne Ténéré yesterday evening and was pleasantly surprised.
    Ténéré is on my "very long short list" of vintage frags to snag. Good reputation and fairly easy to come by.
    Currently wearing: Nobile by Gucci

  17. #17
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Ténéré is on my "very long short list" of vintage frags to snag. Good reputation and fairly easy to come by.
    Wouldn't mind having a bottle either. Don't know if I would use it that much, but a nice 25/30ml bottle would be very welcome.

    As for my sampling, yesterday I sampled two.

    Roger & Gallet Open. Another very nice fragrance that exceeded expectations. To me this was mostly about dry tobacco supported by herbs I have a soft spot for (sage/thyme/lavender). Longevity and performance where all really great. During the day I also noticed a few times it had this really nice creamy quality. Looking at the notes I'm not quite sure what caused this (maybe the patchouli with lavender?), but for me this made it more than "just" a tobacco fragrance.

    Loewe Esencia. I sampled this mostly because of it's reputation, not because I thought it would suit my tastes. I'm not a great admirer of green fougeres, but do try to sample the classics and maybe one day I will sniff one which suits my interests. Loewe Esencia to me started of really green/dark, but surprisingly settled down quite a bit after an hour or so, moving more in the spicy/herbal direction. After that I thought it had quite some similarities to Loewe pour Homme, kind of like bit greener/darker brother. Because it toned down quite a bit after the opening I actually enjoyed this one quite a bit, but in the end would pick Loewe pour Homme anytime above this one.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    Roger & Gallet Open. Another very nice fragrance that exceeded expectations.
    Yep, I have a bottle, bought blind off BN raves, and I wasn't disappointed. Major bang for the buck.

    Loewe Esencia. I sampled this mostly because of it's reputation, not because I thought it would suit my tastes. I'm not a great admirer of green fougeres, but do try to sample the classics and maybe one day I will sniff one which suits my interests. Loewe Esencia to me started off really green/dark, but surprisingly settled down quite a bit after an hour or so, moving more in the spicy/herbal direction. After that I thought it had quite some similarities to Loewe pour Homme, kind of like bit greener/darker brother. Because it toned down quite a bit after the opening I actually enjoyed this one quite a bit, but in the end would pick Loewe pour Homme anytime above this one.
    Now, Loewe is a line I've never tried. You have me intrigued, which is never good for my wallet. Damn you, sir!

    Looking forward to your takes on the Pasha, Lagerfeld, and VC&A.
    Currently wearing: Nobile by Gucci

  19. #19
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    I'm a big vintage sampler, mostly through swapping with people such as Purecaramel and Epapsiou.

    I do it to find the next mesmerizing bottle that I just have to have, that kind of thing - an ongoing exploration of great perfumes of the past.

    For the moment, I'm following Earlyn, Grayspoole, Cook.bot, Lellabelle and others who like vintage women's perfume, so things like Diorella, Givenchy III, and Miss Balmain.

  20. #20

    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    I've just received an enlightening group of vintage samples from grayspoole.
    I have been wanting to try these scents and am so excited to get to do so.

    The samples are-

    Diorella EDT, Chamade EDT, Eau de Joy, Givenchy lll perf., & Madame Rochas perf.,
    and some (better) Tabu to try along side the Totem I have.

    These will be my SOTDs in the coming week, and today I'm wearing Givenchy III.
    Thanks, grayspoole!
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  21. #21
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Givenchy Gentleman today
    Summer grasses
    All that remain
    Of warriors' dreams--Basho

  22. #22
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    ... today I'm wearing Givenchy III.
    Isn’t Givenchy III amazing?
    Refined and restrained chypre.
    Both my parents use to wear it. I have a bottle from early 1990s.
    Top notes tend to mellow down but the rest is still good.

    I’m trying Insensé by Givenchy.
    Not a fan of the classic fougere accord per se, it’s forever-freshness vibe grates on my nerves. But this is one aromatic fougere that I can never get tired of.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    When I rearranged my frags to prepare for installation of a new storage system, I made my full bottles harder to get to, and my samples easier. So, these are the little old things I’m working with for now:
    7FA1E99E-4290-401D-A807-60C3CADABED2.jpg
    Currently wearing: Nobile by Gucci

  24. #24
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Currently wearing: Nobile by Gucci

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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Don't strike a match!


    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Up first:

  26. #26

    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    Isn’t Givenchy III amazing?
    Refined and restrained chypre.
    Both my parents use to wear it. I have a bottle from early 1990s.
    Top notes tend to mellow down but the rest is still good.

    I’m trying Insensé by Givenchy.
    Not a fan of the classic fougere accord per se, it’s forever-freshness vibe grates on my nerves. But this is one aromatic fougere that I can never get tired of.
    I was very impressed with the Givenchy lll today. The Insense sounds nice. Haven't tried as many Givenchys as I'd like to yet.
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  27. #27
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Don't strike a match!
    Deep into the catalog: I'm impressed!
    Currently wearing: Nobile by Gucci

  28. #28
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    The parfum concentration of No 19 is magical.
    It really is. I also have a 70’s EDC that was still sealed. My Parfum was too. The parfum is the full expression of the fragrance compared to the EDC, which is ghostly and more feminine to me. The parfum is amazing. Quite feminine as well but still amazing with the iris and greeness. The dry down turns more masculine imo.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  29. #29
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sisyphus View Post
    Wouldn't mind having a bottle either. Don't know if I would use it that much, but a nice 25/30ml bottle would be very welcome.

    As for my sampling, yesterday I sampled two.

    Roger & Gallet Open. Another very nice fragrance that exceeded expectations. To me this was mostly about dry tobacco supported by herbs I have a soft spot for (sage/thyme/lavender). Longevity and performance where all really great. During the day I also noticed a few times it had this really nice creamy quality. Looking at the notes I'm not quite sure what caused this (maybe the patchouli with lavender?), but for me this made it more than "just" a tobacco fragrance.

    Loewe Esencia. I sampled this mostly because of it's reputation, not because I thought it would suit my tastes. I'm not a great admirer of green fougeres, but do try to sample the classics and maybe one day I will sniff one which suits my interests. Loewe Esencia to me started of really green/dark, but surprisingly settled down quite a bit after an hour or so, moving more in the spicy/herbal direction. After that I thought it had quite some similarities to Loewe pour Homme, kind of like bit greener/darker brother. Because it toned down quite a bit after the opening I actually enjoyed this one quite a bit, but in the end would pick Loewe pour Homme anytime above this one.
    Have you tried vintage Roger and Gallet Sandalwood? I’ve seen a bottle around and have wondered about it. Supposedly the bottle is quite old too.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  30. #30
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: What vintage fragrances are you sampling right now?

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    The Insense sounds nice. Haven't tried as many Givenchys as I'd like to yet.
    Insensé is grand with a capital G.

    The Givenchy which aught to be sampled are:
    Vintage Miss Dior
    Dioressence pre-2002.
    I notice that folks are not into chypres that much any more.

    Ah, that reminds me, earlier this month I was retesting, Mystere De Rochas.
    I have a bottle and a cannister, covered in red python skin.
    The scent itself and tactile feeling of that cannister... its something else.
    It's drydown is as glorious as that of Vintage Femme.




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