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  1. #31

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Luna Rossa and invictus

  2. #32

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Vintage. Reformulation. Discontinuance. Vintage.

    Oar over one shoulder, these are the muddied, profane snatches of chemical homecomings and rising sea-levels.
    No live organism can continue for long to exist sanely under conditions of absolute reality.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    2010-2019 The Decade of OUD

  4. #34
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    Diamondflame's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    I can see why the replies vary. ‘Epitome’ may be interpreted as the perfect example representing a specific style/period OR a summary of the said period. I don’t think we can all agree on that one specific fragrance example as we all have different experiences/reactions to fragrances. For example I don’t smell dill in Santal 33 and apparently many don’t either, that’s why it sells.

    If I could sum up the decade, it would be the splintering of fragrance markets with increasing accessibility and low cost marketing driven by social media and better e-commerce platforms. Now it seems anybody could launch and market a perfume brand. Ultra niche lines by big designers are merely defensive plays and often, ‘cash grabs’ given the growth of niche /ultra luxe perfumery.

    ZC or ClaireV could probably write an entire book on this subject. And I’d lap it all up lol.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  5. #35
    Dependent Slayerized's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Besides the decade of Oud, also lots of fragrances became almost 100% synthetic and some are even really good imo (eg. many Mancera's).
    My Top '11' of main current rotation in no particular order:

    - Fragrances of Ireland: Patrick
    - Polo Blue Gold Blend edp
    - Antaeus (vtg)
    - Azzaro: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - TF: Ombré Leather
    - Al Haramain: Excellent
    - SA: Shaghaf Oud Abyad
    - SA: Al Basel
    - D&G: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Mancera: Red Tobacco
    - Mancera: Aoud Vanille

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    "Prolonged Justified 2012 IFRA Mania" starring Aventus and Sauvage, featuring Oud and various Aromachemicals
    It’s tragic to think that heroic man’s great destiny is to become economic man, that men will be reduced to craven creatures who crawl across the globe competing for money, who spend their nights dreaming up new ways to swindle each other.
    Currently wearing: Explorer by Montblanc

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Nasenmann View Post
    Aventus most certainly had the biggest impact of the past decade. It's the successor of Drakkar Noir / Cool Water / Eternity and Acqua di Gio. .
    not really, most average cologne users know well Drakkar Noir / Cool Water / Eternity and Acqua di Gio.
    most average cologne users thinks that creed is a band. and have no a idea what aventus is............................
    Aventus most certainly had the biggest impact of the past decade. but only for basenoters
    1976 - Yatagan Caron
    1977 - Snuff by Schiaparelli
    1981 - Kouros YSL
    1988 - Fahrenheit Dior
    1980 - Patou Pour Homme
    1987 - Lapidus Pour Homme
    1981 - Quorum Antonio Puig
    1993 - Insense by Givenchy
    2014 - Dior Homme Parfum
    1987 - Ho Hang Club Balenciaga

  8. #38

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Get out of the bubble brahs. Most folks don’t buy Oud and Adventus. It’s a Luna rossa and Invictus world with that crap ingredient in all these that polo red also has.

    Sauvage and bleu have also put a dent into the market

  9. #39

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I can see why the replies vary. ‘Epitome’ may be interpreted as the perfect example representing a specific style/period OR a summary of the said period.
    That's right. In my response, I wasn't trying to go the annoying, hair-splitting semantic route (which is sometimes gratuitous); but the word epitome in the title, at first glance, can have an uncertain meaning. If I use it in the sense of a summary of mainstream output, something like Dylan Blue does seem to summarize the Macy's counter for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by peter4ptv View Post
    Aventus most certainly had the biggest impact of the past decade. but only for basenoters
    Indeed. I associate with a variety of people, and I don't think any of them are aware of Aventus. To be fair, I never really asked. It might seem odd to out-of-the-blue do the "You ever heard of Aventus?" inquiry. Maybe I'd be surprised and get hit with some batch number rants. Never know.
    "I'm sure there are things that you like that someone else here dislikes."
    papillo

  10. #40
    Dependent Man Of The World's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    It was surely the decade of oud?? Some great ones but the majority were not. Too many oud & rose combos for my liking. Also too many fragrances released. These days it seems to be quantity over quality.
    All Time Favorites
    Fahrenheit (Vintage Preferred) - Dior
    Fahrenheit Parfum - Dior
    Terre d'Hermes - Hermes
    Jubilation XXV - Amouage
    L'Air Du Desert Marocain - Tauer
    Patchouli Nobile - Nobile 1942
    Musc Ravageur - Frederic Malle
    Pardon - Nasomatto
    1962 - Floris
    Incident Diplomatique - Jovoy
    Private Label - Jovoy
    Psychedelique - Jovoy
    1740 Marquis de Sade - Histoires de Parfums
    Aventus - Creed
    Bois du Portugal - Creed
    Green Irish Tweed - Creed
    Halfeti - Penhaligon's
    Currently wearing: Halfeti by Penhaligon's

  11. #41

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    @peter4ptv, cameron & Alex Krycek:

    I don't say that Aventus is the biggest commercial blockbuster of the decade, not by a long shot but it is the blueprint (which is not to say that it was all that original itself but you probably know what I mean) for Luna Rossa Carbon, Sauvage, etc. and I wouldn't underestimate the countless dupes (ranging from super cheap to super expensive either). And because of this massive influence on the fragrance mainstream fashion of the past decade, I named Aventus the "eptitome".

    Or to quote myself:
    Sauvage only rode in on the wave that was created by Aventus and BdC. It maybe successful and different enough to not count as a clone but without the the success of the others, it would have never seen the light of day, I'd wager.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  12. #42
    Basenotes Junkie slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Why do you think those fragrances? Is it simply because they're the most sold or notorious? I don't personally think dill and santal wood describe this era at all. Androgyny, lifelessness, and the replacement of the soul with machine pleasure I think are much better.
    I think that could easily describe Santal 33 to be honest. Certainly androgynous, a bit lifeless/souless as well. And common, for sure.

    I chose those as, yes, their ubiquity defines an 'era'. I feel like Sauvage covers just about every masculine, metallic, synthetic fresh/western designer, from Bleu de Chanel right up to Aventus. But Aventus deserves its own place - it came out at the beginning of the decade, for starters, and highlights the growth in popularity of both the 'fragcomm' and social media, and the market in that way, but also Aventus in itself as something 'different', that stands apart from other masculine fragrances.

    The Dior is an emblem of the move towards androgyny and femininity-posing-as-politlca-wokeness. Maybe that's a bit harsh, but the 'lipstick' trend needed something to represent it, and as this is the most popular, it will do. Could easily have been a sweet vanillic feminine like Noir Extreme by Tom Ford, but basically I think those 4 all sum up the world as I've seen it change in the last decade, and those fragrances all sum up what is 'hot' in the perfume world. As I said, there's room for an oudy oriental, and maybe an artisanal as well, representing the explosion of niche, but I wouldn't know what to pick and I don't think there's 'one' that can stand in the place for all.

    EDIT: Just reading the rest of the comments and yeah, BR540 would be perfect as the sweet vanillic scent. Also encapsulates the rise in expensive, yet accessible, niche. 'Boutique' is what I believe they should be called, to diferentiate from niche. Boutique could also apply to the Armani Prive, Private Blend Tom Ford stuff as well - something you'll find in Harrod's for £3/ml.

    But still no idea on the oud. A 'proper' oud wouldn't reflect the synthetic 'oud' that has been the selling point, and I'm not sure there's one that stands out above all others. Maybe Oud Wood is a decent shout after all, but it's severely lacking in the fake oud department, and is a rosewood/sandalwood and cardamom scent to me long before it's an oud. I really wouldn't know what to pick to be honest, and maybe that says it all - some decent attempts to Westernise/exoticise an idea of oud, but ultimately, no-one 'won' in the designer realm. Not yet, anyway.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    'Boutique' is what I believe they should be called, to diferentiate from niche. Boutique could also apply to the Armani Prive, Private Blend Tom Ford stuff as well - something you'll find in Harrod's for £3/ml.
    I'm with you on this one! I wonder why this never really caught on.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    It comes down to 3 styles to me. The first past of the decade was tonka heavy, although tonka wasn't in the frag names, EVERYTHING had a heavy tonka base. Then came the oud era, notably oud and rose combo. I felt like once I smelled one, then another, then another, I smelled them all. How many ways can you do oud and rose? Once oud went hard in the designer world, I think they noticed a fail, and it was time to move on. Yes there were A LOT of designer oud's but none to my knowledge got their own brand new bottle, like the big hitting blue frags have. to me, "blue" is just a people friendly word for Ambroxan. Once Bleu de Chanel hit, the trend followed. Once Dior released Sauvage, it was game over for everyone. Every company took notice and wanted a piece of the pie, and that is where we are now. Until Dior or Chanel change the trend, because let's face it, that's what they do.. we will be getting "blue" frags for a while to come.
    "I am not trendy" -Thierry Mugler

  15. #45
    Basenotes Junkie Alonewithcologne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Cologneist View Post
    It comes down to 3 styles to me. The first past of the decade was tonka heavy, although tonka wasn't in the frag names, EVERYTHING had a heavy tonka base. Then came the oud era, notably oud and rose combo. I felt like once I smelled one, then another, then another, I smelled them all. How many ways can you do oud and rose? Once oud went hard in the designer world, I think they noticed a fail, and it was time to move on. Yes there were A LOT of designer oud's but none to my knowledge got their own brand new bottle, like the big hitting blue frags have. to me, "blue" is just a people friendly word for Ambroxan. Once Bleu de Chanel hit, the trend followed. Once Dior released Sauvage, it was game over for everyone. Every company took notice and wanted a piece of the pie, and that is where we are now. Until Dior or Chanel change the trend, because let's face it, that's what they do.. we will be getting "blue" frags for a while to come.
    In other words, what I said:

    Quote Originally Posted by Alonewithcologne View Post
    There are three distinct groups of fragrances that epitomize fragrance of this decade:

    1. Oud
    2. Blue fragrances like Bleu de Chanel or Dylan Blue
    3. Tonka bombs like Fève Délicieuse or Azzaro Wanted

  16. #46

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    I feel very similarly. For instance today you can buy almost anything you want, "beauty" is just a dollar away. Lip injections everywhere for everyone. The way the young date today is sterile and cold; you meet on an app and then spend hours gushing your life story in hope of finding a connection (not that they know what that actually means) then you go and fuck and the whole thing ends in a month. It's closer to being bi-polar than romance. I just am perplexed that young people have such a lack of connection they think romance is this weird vapid pseudo-closeness. That to me is Oud Silk Mood Extrait. It smells like an idea someone had of a what romance was a long time ago, but when viewed up close it's nothingness.
    This is a good topic that I enjoy reading, but can you please refrain from cursing here. Thank you.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Nasenmann View Post
    @peter4ptv, cameron & Alex Krycek:

    I don't say that Aventus is the biggest commercial blockbuster of the decade, not by a long shot but it is the blueprint (which is not to say that it was all that original itself but you probably know what I mean) for Luna Rossa Carbon, Sauvage, etc. and I wouldn't underestimate the countless dupes (ranging from super cheap to super expensive either). And because of this massive influence on the fragrance mainstream fashion of the past decade, I named Aventus the "eptitome".

    Or to quote myself:
    Fair point Nasenmann

    Thank you for your reply.

    I think adventus + bleu/sauvage and all those Luna rossa / invuctus / coach generic scents all contribute to defining the era

  18. #48
    Basenotes Junkie slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Which is why I suppose most here are incapable. That being said, I have to thank you Zealot as you understand.
    That's both weirdly judgemental and pointlessly insulting. I did literally that by trying to pick perfumes that reflect societal change, while also chiming with the idea of 'epitomising', which necessarily must be something that sells by the tanker-full.

  19. #49
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I can see why the replies vary. ‘Epitome’ may be interpreted as the perfect example representing a specific style/period OR a summary of the said period. I don’t think we can all agree on that one specific fragrance example as we all have different experiences/reactions to fragrances. For example I don’t smell dill in Santal 33 and apparently many don’t either, that’s why it sells.

    If I could sum up the decade, it would be the splintering of fragrance markets with increasing accessibility and low cost marketing driven by social media and better e-commerce platforms. Now it seems anybody could launch and market a perfume brand. Ultra niche lines by big designers are merely defensive plays and often, ‘cash grabs’ given the growth of niche /ultra luxe perfumery.

    ZC or ClaireV could probably write an entire book on this subject. And I’d lap it all up lol.
    The flattery has me blushing but I fear a book's worth of my opinion would serve only to stir the mob into action. I already have trouble keeping the pitchforks from some BNers away as is hahaha.
    oh look, I have a signature

  20. #50

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    To me, personally, the conceptual epitome of the last decade is BR540. 100% synthetic, which is being touted as a selling point / achievement, not a negative. Aspirational pricing by am aspirational brand. A perfectly polished plastic mannequin resembling something alive and yet... missing that warmth, imperfection and character, same as the releases designed by committee nowadays. I think this is where the shift is occurring, underneath the trendy big sellers such as Sauvage, BdC etc.

    Good thread, btw.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    I thought instantly of Oud Malaki by Chopard. Yes, it’s good. I enjoy it now and then. But there is no oud in it, zero, and not even a hint of synthetic oud. This is the epitome of this fragrance decade, IMHO.

    Every fragrance has tried to ride the oud train. Even without oud. Even though most people have never experienced oud. Even if most people wouldn’t like oud if they did experience it (it takes some getting used to as you now, much as good blue cheese does, or truffles.)




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