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  1. #1

    Default Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Friends, we quickly are entering into a new decade. I'm curious to hear what fragrances you define this decade by. Please do us all a favor and think outside the box a little; personalize a little. I don't want to hear what was most popular, but rather what did this decade mean to you, and what perfume correlates. Remember, art, philosophy, and politics cannot be separated from the whole.

    My personal opinion is Tom Ford's Oud Wood and MFK's Oud Silk Mood Extrait both are what I consider the epitome for the 2010's. These are both fragrance that are mass appealing, are on paper very good, and in my opinion are blended well enough to consider perfumes. That being said, they are like manufactured romance. There is nothing of the human element in either. They are both commercialized, sterilized, manufactured love; and is that not what we deserve?

    Curious to hear your thoughts.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Just the obvious ones.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Office for Men.

    This is a serious answer. In it, we can glimpse not only the stylistic trends of our era, we can see so much of how the fragrance-collecting community has changed, and how the institutional forces that drive perfumery are evolving in the age of social media and e-commerce.

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    Basenotes Junkie slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Brooks makes a good case.

    The obvious ones, for me, would be Sauvage, Dior Homme, Santal 33, and Aventus. That about covers most of the western world, anyway. Perhaps it's missing the oriental trend, but I don't there is one scent that represents that - it certainly isn't Oud Wood.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    Brooks makes a good case.

    The two obvious ones, for me, would be Sauvage, Dior Homme, Santal 33, and Aventus. That about covers most of the western world, anyway. Perhaps it's missing the oriental trend, but I don't there is one scent that represents that - it certainly isn't Oud Wood.
    Why do you think those fragrances? Is it simply because they're the most sold or notorious? I don't personally think dill and santal wood describe this era at all. Androgyny, lifelessness, and the replacement of the soul with machine pleasure I think are much better.

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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    To me in a general sense I felt during this decade was noteworthy in that more designer houses began offering exclusive lines alongside their regular offerings like Givenchy, Boucheron, Chopard, Yves Saint Laurent and others.
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    As obvious as it may be as an answer, I'm pretty tempted to say Sauvage. Not merely because of its ubiquity, but because it captures several trends at once: the "bleu" motif kicked off by Bleu de Chanel (another that came to mind), but also expressing a resurgence of projection and expansiveness via modern materials, also exemplified by another iconic fragrance of the past decade, Baccarat Rouge 540 (not to mention Santal 33). Not to mention the shameless use, like it or hate it, of new woody-amber chemicals in place of previous-eras' vanilla-tonka, calone, or oak moss as the foundation.

    Though I prefer BdC as a composition, and think of BR540 as even more conceptual and avant-garde, Sauvage hits all the above facets, whereas BdC doesn't have the expansiveness, and BR540 is too idiosyncratic to stand-in for a broad taste trend.

    That you have people comparing other releases (Dylan Blue, Luna Rossa Carbon) to Sauvage says something about it as a touchstone for the era we're in. Just as Angel/A*Men kicked off the epoch of gourmands, and were certainly divisive, so Sauvage is the flag-bearer of this ultra-modern, bombastic bleu era.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Aventus Creed - a new arm of niche that sits closer to designer and is as much about marketing as product. the rise of houses like Creed & Parfums de Marly amongst others. ambroxan & synthetic woods leading the olfactory assault then the classic designers joining in - BdC, Sauvage et al. the YouTube effect - Office for men, Alberto Morillas, no budget limitations, exclusive first batch pre-order.
    Currently wearing: Acqua Wood by Collistar

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    like oud and ambroxan decade..................
    1976 - Yatagan Caron
    1977 - Snuff by Schiaparelli
    1981 - Kouros YSL
    1988 - Fahrenheit Dior
    1980 - Patou Pour Homme
    1987 - Lapidus Pour Homme
    1981 - Quorum Antonio Puig
    1993 - Insense by Givenchy
    2014 - Dior Homme Parfum
    1987 - Ho Hang Club Balenciaga

  10. #10

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Aventus most certainly had the biggest impact of the past decade. It's the successor of Drakkar Noir / Cool Water / Eternity and Acqua di Gio. Compared to the aforementioned, it took more cues from the past instead of introducing something actually new although the pineapple was a bit of new twist on the tried and true 80ies after shave smell that's the actual backbone of it. Still, the undeniable hype and countless clones of Aventus (and Bleu de Chanel, I guess) spawened without ever really getting overtaken by them objectivley qualifies it for the title, in my opinion.

    Sauvage only rode in on the wave that was created by Aventus and BdC. It maybe successful and different enough to not count as a clone but without the the success of the others, it would have never seen the light of day, I'd wager.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by peter4ptv View Post
    like oud and ambroxan decade..................
    And norlimbanol

    Basically, the its the aroma chemicals and styles that drove the trends of the past decade.
    I know you said not to pick the most popular, but their ubiquity means they are unavoidable and representative of the time period.

    I guess personally it would be a variety of dry, woody scents featuring synthetic oud accords. So in my narrow, solipsistic world, Oud Wood would count among them.
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Dylan Blue.

    It's chemical trash designed by committee in a boardroom to capitalize on the success Chanel had with Bleu. They didn't even try to hide the fact that they were playing follow the leader. Instead of naming it Dylan Blue, I'm surprised they didn't name it Follower De Bleu. But to be fair, Dylan Blue was only one of the flood of followers. Chanel had a mainstream hit on their hands and everybody else wanted a piece of the action. Not everybody has the talent to innovate. I'm not a fan of Bleu, but I give credit where credit is due. Chanel took a risk when they brought norlimbanol into the mainstream with Bleu. Versace took no risks with Dylan Blue. They pointed at a bottle of Bleu and said "Let's do that too."

    More than ever before, this decade has been an era of nonsense created to put cash grab releases on store shelves, quickly. Dylan Blue is the also-ran boy band of the fragrance world. "Find some kids who can sing and dance. Give them a trendy name & put them in a studio with a ghost writer, some actual musicians and a producer. Put a record out by the end of the month!" That's Dylan Blue: "Get some trendy notes - like what Bleu has. Throw some cash at a perfumer and have 'em put their name on it. Put it on store shelves by summer!"

    There have been some great fragrances released over the past ten years, but holy moly, there have also been more nonsense filler follower releases than during any decade in the entire history of perfumery. So much chemical trash.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
    Castile
    Royal Oud
    Tabac Rouge
    Petit Matin
    Curve
    1725 Casanova
    Tom Ford Extreme
    Green Irish Tweed
    Interlude Man
    Prada L'Homme
    Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne
    Terre d'Hermes Parfum
    Aqua Universalis
    Pomelo Paradis
    Hanae Mori H.M. EDT

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Synthetic so called oud fragrances

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Friends, we quickly are entering into a new decade. I'm curious to hear what fragrances you define this decade by. Please do us all a favor and think outside the box a little; personalize a little. I don't want to hear what was most popular, but rather what did this decade mean to you, and what perfume correlates. Remember, art, philosophy, and politics cannot be separated from the whole.

    My personal opinion is Tom Ford's Oud Wood and MFK's Oud Silk Mood Extrait both are what I consider the epitome for the 2010's. These are both fragrance that are mass appealing, are on paper very good, and in my opinion are blended well enough to consider perfumes. That being said, they are like manufactured romance. There is nothing of the human element in either. They are both commercialized, sterilized, manufactured love; and is that not what we deserve?

    Curious to hear your thoughts.
    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Why do you think those fragrances? Is it simply because they're the most sold or notorious? I don't personally think dill and santal wood describe this era at all. Androgyny, lifelessness, and the replacement of the soul with machine pleasure I think are much better.
    I bet you're someone who likes Philip K Dick and cyberpunk in general. You're right, about manufactured romance and digital souls. We're spiraling towards a dystopian corporate oligarchy on a dying planet and love cyborgs like those seen in A.I. and Blade Runner may very well become a thing. Since most natural resouces will be depleted by then, the mega-rich will covet them over an artificially-extended lifespan from their sky castles like in Altered Carbon, while the rest of us live in modified cargo crates and the ruins of whatever lies below, but at least for now we are in the nascent stages of this doom.

    For me, Dior Sauvage (2015) arrived right smack in the middle of the decade and represented an amplification and further abstraction of the work already set in motion by Creed Aventus (2010), Bleu de Chanel (2010), and others early on. I agree with your MFK choice as MFK overall seems to like a highly-conceptualized synthetic vibe similar to Calvin Klein but with a much higher budget and sense of artistry. Real "the future is now" kind of stuff. The Gentle Fluidity series peefectly encapsulates it alongside the Oud series you mentioned.

    I don't know if I could pick a single fragrance to trump them all, at least in the masculine realm, as women have an entitely different set of trends in their market, but Baccarat Rouge 540 comes close. It's a "sweet nothing" that either lasts forever or burns out in minutes depending on the person, has not a single recognizable natural note in it, is sold at a premium to denote worst wealth inequality in a century, the rise of the second Gilded Age in the 2010's, plus has that "synthetic emotions" vibe you mention.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    The rise of niche with talented artisans showing what they can craft. This imo has been going from strength to strength and will continue.....
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Current Favorites

    1. Antiquity By Areej le Dore
    2. Musk Cologne By Bortnikoff
    3. Pegwell Bay By Haeckels
    4. Sahraa Oud By Fragrance Du Bois

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    The rise of niche with talented artisans showing what they can craft. This imo has been going from strength to strength and will continue.....
    I agree - and that's awesome! But the flipside is also true: This decade has seen the rise of pseudo-niche houses flooding the shelves at the mall, mostly with designer style scents at silly prices.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
    Castile
    Royal Oud
    Tabac Rouge
    Petit Matin
    Curve
    1725 Casanova
    Tom Ford Extreme
    Green Irish Tweed
    Interlude Man
    Prada L'Homme
    Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne
    Terre d'Hermes Parfum
    Aqua Universalis
    Pomelo Paradis
    Hanae Mori H.M. EDT

  17. #17

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    Dylan Blue.

    It's chemical trash designed by committee in a boardroom to capitalize on the success Chanel had with Bleu.
    Yes, I'll go mostly along with this. What's interesting is the topic asks for the epitome: meaning approximately the perfect example of the thing.

    So, the thing is the last decade in fragrance. Implicit in that is a reference to the mainstream.

    And, that's mostly the feeling I get when smelling a lot of the stuff on the counters at Macy's. I may not necessarily call it trash, but it's boring and feels hastily conceived. And, as L'Homme says...I think you nailed it here: it feels like it was designed by committee in a boardroom.
    "I'm sure there are things that you like that someone else here dislikes."
    papillo

  18. #18

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    I'd say Aventus and Sauvage are the epitome of the last decade on Basenotes.
    In the wider world I guess Bleu and Sauvage.
    I have very little relationship with scents of the last decade. I'm not sure I own a fragrance that was first produced after 2010. I don't think even my Dior Hommes qualify.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    I guess it depends what you mean by "epitome of the last decade." If we're talking about the world of fragrance aficionados and/or the art of perfumery, then Hednic and Jack Hunter are on point. If we're talking about the larger world and the business of mass market perfumery, then I'd vote Sauvage. (Office for Men is the idea of the thing, but Sauvage is the thing itself.) The likes of Oud Wood and Aventus are in between—too pricey and pretentious to represent the broader zeitgeist, too common to signify much for niche perfumery beyond the dubious equivalence of "niche" and "art" (or the failure to differentiate "self-importance" and "importance").

  20. #20

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I guess it depends what you mean by "epitome of the last decade." If we're talking about the world of fragrance aficionados and/or the art of perfumery, then Hednic and Jack Hunter are on point. If we're talking about the larger world and the business of mass market perfumery, then I'd vote Sauvage. (Office for Men is the idea of the thing, but Sauvage is the thing itself.) The likes of Oud Wood and Aventus are in between—too pricey and pretentious to represent the broader zeitgeist, too common to signify much for niche perfumery beyond the dubious equivalence of "niche" and "art" (or the failure to differentiate "self-importance" and "importance").
    I suppose I meant epitome in the more abstract sense; I wanted people to talk about what they've experienced in this decade and connect that feeling with fragrances that mimic it. Instead all I got was the same responses you can read 100x on the forum. It is of course my fault to speaking in too abstract. Mods, please delete.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Krycek View Post
    Yes, I'll go mostly along with this. What's interesting is the topic asks for the epitome: meaning approximately the perfect example of the thing.

    So, the thing is the last decade in fragrance. Implicit in that is a reference to the mainstream.

    And, that's mostly the feeling I get when smelling a lot of the stuff on the counters at Macy's. I may not necessarily call it trash, but it's boring and feels hastily conceived. And, as L'Homme says...I think you nailed it here: it feels like it was designed by committee in a boardroom.
    When I say it's trash, I don't mean that designer releases are trash. I'm saying releases that are only created for a quick cash grab by adding top notes to the chemical du jour are trash.

    Bvlgari Atlantiqve is awfvl. I can't imagine why anyone doesn't mind the harsh smell that nonsense leaves behind on their skin after the generic aquatic part of the scent fades. I'm convinced that a lot of people only care about the first hour of a scent, because the Aqva Atlantiqve drydown is baaad. And that generic aquatic top is probably just leftovers from the rest of their Aqva line. Somebody at corporate probably held up a bottle of Bleu De Chanel and said "We need an Aqva like this" (never mind the fact that Bleu isn't aquatic, and that norlimbanol clashes with aquatics!). It's garbage. I bet it took less than an hour to compose that nonsense. I'm not kidding. It's not even decent perfumery. It's trash.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
    Castile
    Royal Oud
    Tabac Rouge
    Petit Matin
    Curve
    1725 Casanova
    Tom Ford Extreme
    Green Irish Tweed
    Interlude Man
    Prada L'Homme
    Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne
    Terre d'Hermes Parfum
    Aqua Universalis
    Pomelo Paradis
    Hanae Mori H.M. EDT

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    I suppose I meant epitome in the more abstract sense; I wanted people to talk about what they've experienced in this decade and connect that feeling with fragrances that mimic it.
    Distilling a decade of personal experience in a complex world to a feeling that can be mimicked by a fragrance—even a highly complex one—seems monumentally simplistic.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Distilling a decade of personal experience in a complex world to a feeling that can be mimicked by a fragrance—even a highly complex one—seems monumentally simplistic.
    Which is why I suppose most here are incapable. That being said, I have to thank you Zealot as you understand.

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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    I have to thank you [and] Zealot as you understand.
    Well, it probably helps that I've also read Philip K. Dick, William Gibson, et al.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    When I say it's trash, I don't mean that designer releases are trash. I'm saying releases that are only created for a quick cash grab by adding top notes to the chemical du jour are trash... I bet it took less than an hour to compose that nonsense. I'm not kidding. It's not even decent perfumery. It's trash.
    Sure, I get your meaning and emphasis that you're not describing designer releases as an entirety. In particular, as I mentioned, I like this characterization: "designed by committee in a boardroom." I do get that feeling from a lot of them.
    "I'm sure there are things that you like that someone else here dislikes."
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    Which is why I suppose most here are incapable. That being said, I have to thank you Zealot as you understand.
    Thank you!

    I kinda see "cyber-fication" (not a word but bear with me) as the big mainstream thing across many art and media markets. People love VR, they love virtual realities provided by MMOs, they love "smart" and "connected" everything, plus often feel more comfortable texting a friend or playing a game online than meeting them for coffee in person.

    In first-world cities, we are but obstacles in each other's way most days, so there's no emotional connection to the physical or visceral like their once was for many of us, with tech hubs and other concentrations of wealth being among the worst examples of this. Fashion follows the money, and cold, pristine, emotionless beauty is the mainstream. It's only "natural" that perfumes follow suit.

    We like the "idea of a desert" Sauvage conjures, not the actual attempt to capture a desert smell like Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain. As that becomes the standard, people will expect more "realistic" perfumes to be more special, and a tether to the natural world through perfume will cost a premium. This is where Roja Dove and Tom Ford make all their money creating "luxury" re-hashes of old perfumes. But what do I know, I'm just the "Avon Guy"?
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  27. #27

    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Thank you!

    I kinda see "cyber-fication" (not a word but bear with me) as the big mainstream thing across many art and media markets. People love VR, they love virtual realities provided by MMOs, they love "smart" and "connected" everything, plus often feel more comfortable texting a friend or playing a game online than meeting them for coffee in person.

    In first-world cities, we are but obstacles in each other's way most days, so there's no emotional connection to the physical or visceral like their once was for many of us, with tech hubs and other concentrations of wealth being among the worst examples of this. Fashion follows the money, and cold, pristine, emotionless beauty is the mainstream. It's only "natural" that perfumes follow suit.
    I feel very similarly. For instance today you can buy almost anything you want, "beauty" is just a dollar away. Lip injections everywhere for everyone. The way the young date today is sterile and cold; you meet on an app and then spend hours gushing your life story in hope of finding a connection (not that they know what that actually means) then you go and fuck and the whole thing ends in a month. It's closer to being bi-polar than romance. I just am perplexed that young people have such a lack of connection they think romance is this weird vapid pseudo-closeness. That to me is Oud Silk Mood Extrait. It smells like an idea someone had of a what romance was a long time ago, but when viewed up close it's nothingness.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by CutSmut View Post
    I just am perplexed that young people have such a lack of connection they think romance is this weird vapid pseudo-closeness. That to me is Oud Silk Mood Extrait. It smells like an idea someone had of a what romance was a long time ago, but when viewed up close it's nothingness.
    CutSmut, what ages do you consider "young people" to be? Does that include people in your own age cohort, or folks much younger than you?

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    There are three distinct groups of fragrances that epitomize fragrance of this decade:

    1. Oud
    2. Blue fragrances like Bleu de Chanel or Dylan Blue
    3. Tonka bombs like Fève Délicieuse or Azzaro Wanted

    Which group is best to chose from?

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Epitome of the Last Decade of Fragrance

    It will never happen, but it would be nice to move away from all the fresh bleu if you will and bring back new masculine fragrances that standout and not blend in with the crowd of other fragrances. Don’t get me wrong fresh is fine but I think everyone and a company has jumped on the bandwagon and we have quite a few choices now it’s time for something new and (manly). To answer the thread question, Bleu De Chanel, Sauvage, Eros, Aqua Di Gio Profumo (and flankers), Versace Homme and flankers, Invictus and flankers, One Million (flankers too), and a lot of the Prada line are what this decade consisted of in the designer world. Explorer has come along and gave people a slight taste of niche and will probably be more fuel to what’s coming. Fingers crossed Chanel can be another trend setter for this new decade and give us something new and unique and far from what’s currently available!
    Current Top Favorites

    Azzaro Azzaro Pour Homme
    Guerlain L’Instant De Guerlain Pour Homme EDP
    Chanel Egoiste
    Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche EDP
    Guerlain Heritage EDT
    Guerlain Habit Rouge EDT
    Christian Dior Dior Homme EDT
    Ralph Lauren Polo




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