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  1. #1

    Default descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I got some more samples of some interesting fragrance chemicals and wanted to share how they smell like.

    Amboryl acetate - I kind of like this one. It's kind of acetate-like, a little bit like vinegar. But smells like Cedramber only better, less of that dry cedar edge, more soft/powdery. warm, just a hint spicy like Kephalis

    Verymoss (Evernyl) - dusty, moldy moss, little harsh chemical edge like new carpet. More like the spicy deep aspect of moss. Moss-aspects but not green, maybe more like orange moss. Ivy, notes of deep petitgrain, mossy soap like grandpa would use. Might make a good base. I don't think it's bad, almost soft peppery, more on dry side, maybe more medicinal.
    If I had to describe this smell, I would say it smell gray.
    Is this the mineral note in Tom Ford's Anthracite? Maybe brings to mind granite.
    maybe smells like computer printer ink, or a computer printer that has just printed something or has overheated
    I can't decide whether I like this, but it's definitely interesting, I am kind of captivated by it, want to keep smelling to figure this one out

    Citrolate - Juicy grapefruit, but more like Ruby Red grapefruit. definitely some grapefruit bitterness. a little bit of an acetone smell, nail polish remover. fairly sharp orange/tangerine smell, a little bit reminiscent of Orange Flower Ester

    Claritone - very waxy, smells reminiscent of citrus but not citrus, maybe halfway between citrus and something like burned plastic, like a very harsh orange/tangerine aspect, harsh bitter rind of orange peels, reminiscent of bergamot tea, or orange rind tea.
    Can't decide if I like this, but wouldn't really say it smells "fresh". Might be good in laundry detergent.

    Terranol - This smells like true green moss growing on the dirt in the damp shade. Literally, smells like if you rolled around in that moss. Not tree moss.

    Piconia - subtle, reminiscent of a less harsh Patchouli, and pine, very hard to describe.
    very subtle, I think it has more of a fixative effect. Deep dark conifer smell, but somehow still soft. I think I quickly become anosmic to it.
    Smells like the wood from some sort of cypress, yet not really balsamic, so in that sense it smells good.
    Ever so slight almost Vetiver? (the good part of natural vetiver)
    I get dry conifer
    But doesn't smell like much.
    slightly powdery, exquisite, but cypress or cedar harsh dryness maybe.
    slightly lemony-pine, yellow-green pine smell.
    But with some similarity to Trimofix.
    smells grandpa-like, almost get a leathery patchouli (but not in any way animalic).
    I'm getting a pine wood note, or the heartwood of a Douglas Fir tree.

    Alpha-damascone - weird, like a dry green juicy apple, dry like alcoholic apple cider, a little bit fermented or overly ripe bruised apple, but almost more plum-like quality of apple.
    slightly camphorous, almost minty

    Givescone - very white/opaque like Life Savers mints, has a salicylate end note, slightly mint. Almost pomegranate in apple juice smell, maybe dried cranberry.
    very interesting, but I don't think I like this one.
    very slight rose-apple smell, but has a harsh note at the end.
    Too edible-like smelling.
    Most reminiscent of sweet Life Savers mints mixed with pomegranate juice

  2. #2

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    These are some old ones I described, I'll put them here.

    The first thing that strikes me is it's kind of marine or aquatic (but nothing really like Calone, the typical aquatic in perfume). It's also very ever so slightly fruity, in a similar way that raspberry is, and the smell is a bit like acetone.
    It is a bit mossy/earthy but in a very "clear" way. There's also a bit of a chemical/floral quality to the smell.
    Some sweetness, but only in an acetone or rubbing alcohol sort of way, although with that sweetness toned up more than it is in rubbing alcohol with much less of the astringency.
    It's the type of smell that maybe could be grouped with anisaldehyde (lilac) or ionone (violet flowers) but not the same as either.
    To me, when I smell it, a faint light purple-blue color comes to mind, mixed with blue-green.
    It's described as camphorous, but I'm not getting as much of that. Maybe a tad bit camphorous, and half of that camphorous smell is in a more chemical type of way, like rubbing alcohol. (Of course the sample I'm smelling is dissolved in alcohol, so maybe you shouldn't read too much into that)

    It's a beautiful exquisite sort of grapefruit-vetiver, rich Virginia tobacco, chemical patchouli smell, also with a more spicy woody character like caryophyllene.
    Overall Kaphalis kind of reminds one of the smell of Pine-Sol cleaner or turpentine, but in a much better way, if that makes sense.
    And yes, the grapefruit-vetiver-tobacco smell is a little mossy as well, maybe 30 to 40 percent. It's that light mossiness aspect that I really like.
    It definitely has both some dry tobacco and damp mossy character, but the dry tobacco facet outweighs the damp facet by 60 to 40 percent (a little more than that actually).
    Let's remember that the grapefruit-vetiver-tobacco-moss is only one smaller facet of the overall smell of this molecule. And the grapefruit-vetiver-tobacco feels like a single note, that exists somewhere between those smells.
    Out of that, the vetiver/tobacco dominates more than the grapefruit/moss.
    It does smell natural and exquisite but it also half smells synthetic and chemical, in another way.
    The exquisite aspect makes me think of a fine hand woven ornate Persian rug.
    I almost get a slight dry clear cedar in the afternotes of Kephalis. (It's subtly astringent and harsh like cedar but not at all balsamic)
    I don't think this needs to be said, but just to clarify, I don't think anyone smelling Kephalis would say it smells "like moss", but I don't think it would be completely unfair for someone to draw that comparison.
    observation about the smell of Kephalis on skin:
    There's a surface to it like Clary Sage, maybe just a little bit softer than that
    It has a green facet, but not the typical acetate green, more like a tobacco and moss green
    tobacco juice-like, also the wood shavings commonly used in the bottom of animal cages, maybe a light white cedar wood
    smells like it could be a natural material, or really close to that
    If you can imagine Clary Sage, but a deeper softer version, with a medium to moderate tobacco facet, mostly dry, kind of cedar-like dryness, but with maybe the tiniest bit of wet tobacco leaf aspect too.
    I'm also getting something in the undertones that's like the leaves combined with the wood of eucalyptus trees, but without the cold camphor aspect (or only the tiniest bit of camphor), very strange.

    Trimofix O (Fixamber) -
    It smells very marine, almost salty, a bit like Cashmeran in the sense of having the scent of sun-kissed skin on the beach.
    Almost something resinousy or terpenic grapefruit-like, I get the same thing from Iso E Super. (I know other people don't get that) But it's more in an old grandpa sort of way.
    Pretty deep musky/ambery but dry, in a marine-sort of way.
    This stuff is pretty strong, and a little bit harsh in an acetate sort of way, but not green.
    There's something about the smell of grapefruit but the smell is shifted towards a different direction, it's not the same.
    The smell is half exquisite and half cheap musk.
    This smell could be used in a female perfume but it would be more for a professional bossy career woman, not so much a feminine one.
    And yes, I do get a little bit of a dry tobacco aspect, but would not really describe it as tobacco.
    I could be wrong about this, but there's almost something in there that reminds me of sweet tea or sun tea (think 4-Oxoisophorone?) but a bit drier than that.
    And yes, this is definitely amber-like, but in more of a ketone/acetone kind of way.
    This smells like a high-class fragrance, but I would not want to overdose on this.
    I almost get something that's a bit soap-like, in the same way that long chain aldehydes can sometimes be kind of soapy. Would I describe this as rose-like? Well, maybe more of the effect of half-dried rose petal potpourri.
    The pungency reminds me of the rounded/blunted sharpness of Javanol.
    In the dry-down the dryness almost has a powdery edge, like ionones. (but overall it's not very powdery)
    This has it's own unique subtle effects, and I think those effects would be wasted if you mixed it with Iso E Super.
    Trimofix O is expensive but you don't need very much, and I think you'd want to be much more conservative with it than you would be with Iso E Super.
    observation about the smell of Trimofix O on skin:
    My first reaction, this stuff is beautiful! More beautiful than Cedramber. Like Cedramber, it does sort of have a slight bubblegum facet to it, but this a bubblegum facet in a better way than Cedramber.
    I'm almost getting a slight marine or aquatic, but it's not really aquatic, more like something like that. I'm really getting an exquisite bubblegum. I know that doesn't make sense.
    There's also something in this that's slightly... I want to say leathery or suede, but there's nothing animalic about it. I mean if suede could be completely not dirty at all. A few more slight salty undertones, but it's very slight.
    Hmm, what does this smell like, I almost want to say cherry, but not in the typical harsh way that cherry does.
    Maybe a little bit of pure wood underneath the cherry and saltiness.
    If there was a color that represented the smell of Trimofix O, I think it would have to be aquamarine.
    If you like Iso E Super, I think you'll really love Trimofix O.
    There's something in the dry-down that feels like aquamarine color clear gel toothpaste.

  3. #3
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    pkiler's Avatar
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    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Seems to me that these belong in the single materials daughter forum.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Seems to me that these belong in the single materials daughter forum.
    I didn't want to clutter the single note materials with endless threads on different obscure synthetics.

    I think that would trash and ruin that section of the forum.

    Maybe the ones running this website could set up another sub-forum for descriptions of synthetics?

  5. #5

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Seems to me that these belong in the single materials daughter forum.
    I strongly support that, that's pure single note exploration.

  6. #6

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by filousoph View Post
    I strongly support that, that's pure single note exploration.
    Yes, but just think for a moment what it would look like if the single note section got filled with all sorts of synthetic names.
    It's hard enough to sort through there as it is.

    In my opinion you are both totally wrong and haven't really thought this through.

    As it is, the single note section is filled with standard smells (wood, water, ozone, etc) and the typical common naturals (frankincense, vetiver, bergamot, etc) and that's how it should remain.

    I am NOT going to trash that sub forum by posting the names of synthetics there. It could be an almost endless list.

    If those running this forum want to start a separate sub-section to discuss what synthetics smell like, then I will do it.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post
    Yes, but just think for a moment what it would look like if the single note section got filled with all sorts of synthetic names.
    It's hard enough to sort through there as it is.
    It's all sorted alphabetically. And there are already threads for single molecules. you would just start a new thread where one does not yet exist for that molecule. And as for that not being it's purpose, nor being too many threads, well, that is exactly as it was intended to be, a thread for each item, whatever that is. And, I see that you have contributed to that forum in the past, and may have even started a new material thread, just keep doing that, to build that library with your sortable impressions.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Junkie Dmitriy's Avatar
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    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    In fact, for the successful use the individual notes when creating perfumes, it is very important that each person studying this craft to have to do the own description of each of these materials. What David mentioned here many times. (He even insisted not to read other people's description of the material until make your own acquaintance with and description ) For each person, these descriptions, associations related with this smell and definition of shades can be very different from yours but everyone will have to work refer to your own memory and experience. Your impressions of these molecules will help you a lot and will not be to help for others persons in creating compositions. Here it is impossible to learn without having done your own path. Therefore, I find the information about single notes in TGSC a quite sufficient. But thank you for doing this, maybe it will be interesting to someone as a general direction.

  9. #9

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I think I finally figured out what Piconia smells like. It smells strongly reminiscent of Port Orford Yellow Cedar, or pine sap.

  10. #10

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Okoumal - This one is difficult to describe. does not seem very strong, either that or I quickly become anosmic to it.
    The smell reminds me of crushed up acorns, maybe almost toffee but not at all in a sweet sort of way, distantly reminiscent to oak but not woody, a little bit musky, slightly mushroom.
    Soft and simple. has a slightly dry edge.
    Maybe just a little bit of an exquisite something between an ambery, mossy, aquatic type smell. A little bit of the exquisite hard-to-describe note of Trimofix.
    I think this also has a subtle lactonic cinnamon smell that contributes towards creating the impression of oak wood.

    Nerolidol - reminiscent of linalool (lavender) but far more subtle and transparent, and with more of an earthy, wet aquatic edge.
    It feels very "purple", almost like an ionone. It has the purple powdery base of lavender with the rest of the smell toned down.
    Smells sort of like lily of the valley.
    Colors I would use to describe this smell are purple and teal.

    Firsantol - this is sort of a white sawdust aspect of sandalwood, smooth white pine, almost a dank clay or playdough smell in an exquisite sort of way. Could be indispensable as one of the sandalwood synthetics in a sandalwood accord. it does have some musky sandal afternotes.
    Reminds one of pine wood on the beach, not very strong.

    Floropal - This embodies a grapefruit, bergamot, sour orange bitterness, leaning more towards grapefruit, but it's the bitter peel effect more so than a juicy sweet grapefruit. (More so the bitterness of grapefruit rather than grapefruit itself, but it does have some regular grapefruit) It's also a little bit sharp and alcoholy, very slightly like phenethyl alcohol but mostly not. This most reminds me of the sort of smell of Citrolate, in terms of the grapefruit bitterness smell, but maybe a little more in the direction of Orange Flower Ester. (and very slightly more like real grapefruit than either)
    One person said this reminds them of the smell of human body sweat on a hot day, and I can agree with that, but it has that effect in more a fresh sort of way, not really animalic.

    I think the best way to describe this would be if grapefruit came in the form of a potpourri.

    (I could see it as a replacement for phenethyl alcohol in a fragrance where the smell of rose was desired in combination with the smell of grapefruit)

    Pamplefleur - Really does have some exquisite green grapefruit afternotes, maybe ever so slight cucumber and honey dew melon background, a bit musty.
    I think I like this one.
    I'm getting a very slight green like styraryl acetate (which is almost a honeysuckle sort of bitter green).
    strange, almost ever so slightly Calone-like too, very slight effect of bergamot earl grey tea in the afternotes, albeit in a little more acetone-like way.
    I would say that this certainly bears at least some resemblance to nootkatone.
    I would say this is fairly tenacious.

    I do also get a hint of ruby grapefruit towards the end, with some pungent character like grapefruit thiol.
    Very strange for one fragrance chemical to display so many different facets of grapefruit smell.

    A bit musty or musky in higher concentration, pungent grapefruit or guava, but leaning closer to the side of grapefruit.
    Almost like a cedary-type grapefruit effect. Maybe slightly rubbery.

    Come to think of it, I think this is the same sort of smell as some grapefruit-flavored (probably artificially) jelly candy I just had.
    Maybe it's a bit "juicy" and "edible".
    Last edited by parker25mv; 12th October 2019 at 10:17 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Prismantol -
    in very low concentrations almost a creamy maple wood
    subtle ginger, cardamom effect, woody, almost sort of ambery, reminds me of an old patchouli soap bar.
    green stems, almost eucalyptus without too much cold camphor effect (the eucalyptus effect becomes more prominent at high concentrations).
    In the sense that it's woody, it's mostly a creamy wood mixed with a eucalyptus wood or twigs.

    subtly orange, musty, slightly soap, slight labdanum-like effect.
    Someone said this was tea-like, I can see that but it's very subtle/faint.
    Kind of stuffy. It also feels "dusty" (in the same way that some things smell powdery but in a different way).
    The orange smell is kind of piercing in the same type of way as benzaldehyde has a piercing smell. I like benzaldehyde but with Orinox it's a little uncomfortable.
    This is an interesting one, and could have a lot of potential, but I just can't bring myself to like it.
    Last edited by parker25mv; 12th October 2019 at 09:11 AM.

  12. #12
    Basenotes Junkie
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    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Your descriptions seem quite adequate but how would you use these materials?

  13. #13
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    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    I put Orinox (diluted to 50%) to very good use in a dry, dusty rose blend (my goal) alongside sandalwood, leather and patchouli. The orinox made all the difference. Very subtle, lovely orange nuance + that rather severe desiccation I wanted that reaches well into the dry down. I'm also using it in an orange accord I'm developing for another blend, and IMO it lends a sophisticated element to what would otherwise be a plain, short lived (but still very nice) orange note. I'm liking this material more and more for specialized effects.

  14. #14

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by DanaB View Post
    I'm liking this material more and more for specialized effects.
    Well, I'm glad there's someone who can appreciate Orinox.
    I really wanted to and tried to like this one, but I've just come to the conclusion I can't stand it.
    It's that piercing cloyingly nauseating orange soda smell, combined with the compound being very stuffy, almost a musk effect (something else I have trouble with).
    To me, it's nauseatingly orange in the same way that some other people describe benzaldehyde as sickeningly cherry. (But I actually like benzaldehyde, so how does that make sense?)
    I guess to each their own. I might be a little weird that way.
    I don't want to write a negative review though since there's other people who may have a different perception of it.

    Ok, I'm really trying to give Orinox another chance. In very low concentration it's almost like a faint orange tea, slightly rose in the same way that phenylethyl alcohol is, except without the alcohol sharpness (so the effect there is sort of like a mix of soft waxy rose petal and rose potpourri, although don't misunderstand, it only gives a subtle hint reminiscent of rose). And yes, I can see what some might consider some "exquisite"/"sophisticated" effect.
    I think my nose starts becoming a little anosmic after the first 2 sniffs and then it starts turning into more of a sugary powdery (not sweet though) smell like Pez candy, Smarties, or chewable powdery vitamins (especially an artificially orange flavored one).

  15. #15

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Interesting, I think I also get a very subtle synthetic vetiver smell from Prismantol, but it's not very strong and buried below the menthone smell.

  16. #16

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Firascone- more jammy than Givescone. unlike Givescone it's just apple juice, not pomegranate juice. Maybe twice as damascone-like as Givescone. I get a slight minty white aspect in the smell. It smells very much like rose potpourri but in a more damascone like way than other chemicals. I get a smell effect that's similar to the feeling of methyl anthranilate(Concord grape), I mean just a little heady and pungent. Deep in the same sense as Douglas Fir, does have a bit of opaque greenness. Bit of Pelargonium rose geranium edge, maybe almost slightly sage effect. Maybe tiny hint of saffron effect. Feels very "juicy", maybe like an apple juice with exquisite grape blend, has a sweetness. This is an intriguing smell. I don't know if this could substitute for damascone in a rose accord but it could certainly strengthen it. Reminds me more like the rose-like notes in some wines. This is a lot more opaque salicylate like than regular rose.

    dimethyl hydroquinone - well this is interesting. I get the impression of potpourri, dried flower petals including roses but other flowers as well, maybe pansies, a little bit of a chemical hydroquinone fennel edge, musky like scented ivy soap, I get some of the new mown hay, it's a little bit of the harsh aspect of that hay, maybe mixed with fresh green lawn grass clippings. I do get a little bit of a celery or fresh fennel stalk note from this, maybe some linseed oil. fennel, with a bit of green bitterness in the end note. Very slightly floral as well. I would say it's musky in a hay sort of way. It's very heady (I get that same sort of feeling from orange flower ether). I get a musky musty feeling, sort of like a basement an old house. Smells in one sense similar to Evernyl, so I expect this one would go well in fragrances with oakmoss notes. (But it's a bit lighter more green and floral than Evernyl, and more transparent)
    What else part of the smell reminds me of is a new computer that is overheating a little bit, and you can smell a bit of the new plastic smell.

  17. #17

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    beta damascone - beautiful, jammy, floral, dried rose petal but real rose, natural. might be contamination of my sample but a sense a green bitterness in the end, ever so slight vinyl smell. The slightest suggestive hint of mint, ever so small. Kind of an underlying sweet pleasant mellow pink-orange and rose smell, maybe a little like European varietals of grape. Of course very valuable in a perfume, if it were not for the expense. This is the nice part in a rose. I can really see this type of smell being in a food flavoring in juices, white wines or light fruity desserts.

    Apritone - green underripe apricot, almost get some orange (citrus) tonality. pleasant apricot leaning on nectarine or sharp deep red plum. might help add a tang and sweet background to peach accords, reminiscent of the "peach" aromas in some wines. a little bit of the opaque rubbery yellow smell of tulips. maybe like a very fresh made apricot jam, maybe with crushed apricot put thrown in there. light, faintly sweet, some resemblance to osmanthus.

  18. #18

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Doremox - very diffusive, like the aroma from a sour green Reisling wine, delicious but not particularly edible, a bit green apple, a little waxy. I really like this. I can see how this would be indispensable for making the smell of roses, especially the more sour lemon-smelling roses. It's mildly bright, mildly piercing. I might use this in the sour note of lychees (the tropical fruit). very slight honeydew melon feel, but in a sharper sort of way, I'm really getting a starfruit note here. If delicious green fruit notes could be metallic, this is what they would be.

    Neryl Acetate - This is beautiful. I'm getting a honeysuckle-like orange blossom effect. a bit jasmine, very slightly ionone-like in smell. But no mistaking this is very citrusy with a tang.
    It doesn't so much smell like anything obvious distinctly, but is much of the beautiful floral background in the fragrance of orange blossoms, and probably other citrus blossoms to a lesser extent.

  19. #19

    Default Re: descriptions of some new fragrance chemicals

    Phenoxanol - like the very musky undertone of rose potpourri. Much more complex, subtle, mild, and deeper than phenethyl alcohol. I get a musky rose petal. Heavy in the same way that patchouli is, but doesn't smell like patchouli. slightly soap like, in a good way, not a cheap way, like a rose soap. Just a little bit oily or greasy feeling, or waxy (waxy rose petal). This could be useful for background effects in perfume. Maybe ever so slight metallic end note, but in a way that is perfectly natural for rose (rose oxide).

    Ebanol - almost slight chocholate / maple syrup tonality, wood. deeper, dark brown, a precious dark brown wood from the tropics, like mahogany, with some teak. reminiscent of sandalwood, and closer to it than many other synthetics. a little fatty or a slight nut wood.

    L-limonene - lemon terpene smell, in a simple sort of sour way. kind of a sharp lemon edge, or the woodiness in lemon. similar to a Pine-Sol feeling but much sharper and more abrupt note. There's no sweetness or fruitiness here. smells somewhat reminiscent of lemon but not citrus. refreshing, very clean. more of a faint smell with a strong edge. kind of astringent, very slight tang in a distinctly lemon sort of way. the burning sort of oils in lemon peel.

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