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Thread: House of Caron

  1. #61

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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Mimosa and heliotrope have many similarities.

  2. #62
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    Strange people saying Farnesiana is mimosa as for me it was always heliotrope.
    You’re correct it begins mimosa, dry-pollen like but mid to drydown is very heliotrope-leaning.
    Mostly because mimosa absolute goes well with violet, iris, heliotrope and incense.
    Now a days there are AC which mimic both, eg, 4-methyl-α-amylcinnamon aldehyde or mimosa heptanal (IFF).

    This is a wonderful conversation on an older thread:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/227...sa-help-please

    Mat Yudov dissects it down well.
    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Col...mosa-9210.html
    Last edited by Pallas Moncreiff; 8th October 2019 at 03:04 AM.
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  3. #63

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Thank you.

    cacio and Pallas Moncreiff
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  4. #64
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Wore Third Man today.

    Seems it has lasted through the working day and is still going strong, so much better longevity than Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT, although a different kind of vibe to the Chanel altogether.
    Currently wearing: Knize Ten by Knize

  5. #65
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    I found my old Tabac Blonde parfum today.
    It has intense florals, vanilla and carnation to begin with, then comes cloves and musk with tobacco leaf (this is not chary, smoke or cigarette like), but the colour in my mind is more pale ambery to cinnamon tones. As the time goes by the tobacco note intensifies, but this is the most well rounded tobacco perfume ever— I’m not a fan of tobacco scents, Habanita being an exception. This, however, is just beautiful.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    Wore Third Man today.

    Seems it has lasted through the working day and is still going strong, so much better longevity than Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT, although a different kind of vibe to the Chanel altogether.
    I don’t have the greatest breadth of experience, but Le 3ème Homme has some of the best longevity of any fragrance I’ve tried.

  7. #67
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    I found my old Tabac Blonde parfum today.
    It has intense florals, vanilla and carnation to begin with, then comes cloves and musk with tobacco leaf (this is not chary, smoke or cigarette like), but the colour in my mind is more pale ambery to cinnamon tones. As the time goes by the tobacco note intensifies, but this is the most well rounded tobacco perfume ever— I’m not a fan of tobacco scents, Habanita being an exception. This, however, is just beautiful.
    How old do you think your Tabac Blonde might be, PallasMoncrief?

    Bavard posted above, comparing 1970's lotion, to current and vintage parfum. It would be interesting to see if we can document changes.

    My TB is not especially old...90's? 00's? Anyone know how to tell? It's a tester

    59992731-883A-4071-A17B-F5C148569A73.jpg

    I enjoy wearing it very much but I have no basis for comparison. I'll wear it today and report back.
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  8. #68
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Grayspoole:
    That’s the thing, on Caron parfum bottles, there is nothing. There are some raised marks on the glass base and I’ll have to stain them to read what's written. All I can say is the person I bought it from said, it was pre-2000.
    It reminds me (the beginning) of both Narcisse parfum from the House.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    I received the following news in an email today from my French Shopper. For myself it's been some years since I've been moved by any (modern) Caron fragrances so I see it as a curiousity and possibly an upcoming turn for the better (though my cynicism about the state of perfume runs extremely deep in this century, growing deeper with each weak new release) But I am passing it on here in case anyone is interested, etc. Suzan is extremely reliable with her information so I am inclined to believe her. =)

    ************************************************** ********************************************

    Caron must stop selling many of its fragrances by 10/31; They will not be marking anything down, but clients are buying huge quantities. Stock will be destroyed after 11/1. Staff found out several weeks ago and are just now reaching out to their better clients. Over the long term this will be temporary as the nose will try to reformulate the fragrances but it will take time. There also are at least 4 new fragrances coming out...not sure when. Other perfume houses have been quietly discontinuing and reformulating over the last several years and they haven't had such an abrupt change. A few Caron fragrances will be discontinued on 12/31. I will write about those for my trip next month. Anyway...let me know if you want anything from this list because they absolutely must be off the EU market by 10/31.



    Pour Une Femme
    Acaciosa
    Farnésiana
    French CanCan
    Narcisse Blanc
    Tubéreuse
    Rose

    100ml EDP $228
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    Alpona Parfum
    En Avion Parfum
    Poivre Parfum

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    25ml nonspray $232
    50ml nonspray $270
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    Bellodgia Perfume Pure
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    Nuit de Noel
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    EDT 100ml $144

    Nocturnes
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    Coup de Fouet
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    This collection of mirrors and 20ml spray bottles is being discontinued and IS ON SALE! Specify gold or silver
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  10. #70

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Wow, that is really bad news. Thanks for the heads up, theladymay. I note with a small shred of hope that Parfum Sacre and Or et Noir aren't on the list... Perhaps they will remain - hopefully unchanged as I found the current formulation of Parfum Sacre to be a slight improvement from the previous formulation in the rectangular bottle.
    Currently wearing: Infusion d'Iris by Prada

  11. #71
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by chypre View Post
    Wow, that is really bad news. Thanks for the heads up, theladymay. I note with a small shred of hope that Parfum Sacre and Or et Noir aren't on the list... Perhaps they will remain - hopefully unchanged as I found the current formulation of Parfum Sacre to be a slight improvement from the previous formulation in the rectangular bottle.
    I really used to like Parfum Sacre but then it seemed like it kept changing and I gave up on it. Hearing that the recent version is improved makes my perfume buying finger itchy. Hopefully this will be new life for the House of Caron!

  12. #72
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    I received the following news in an email today from my French Shopper.

    ************************************************** ********************************************
    Caron must stop selling many of its fragrances by 10/31
    Lordy. At this point, it may be easier to buy vintage Caron.
    Oddly, the list of perfumes for final sale includes scents such as Alpona that have not been listed for sale on the current Caron website. What the heck is Caron doing?
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  13. #73

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Lordy. At this point, it may be easier to buy vintage Caron.
    Oddly, the list of perfumes for final sale includes scents such as Alpona that have not been listed for sale on the current Caron website. What the heck is Caron doing?
    What indeed? It is looking like the new owners who recently purchased Caron are finding evidence of neglect of the brand over some years. I always had the impression that Caron was an afterthought to Alès as they kept diminishing its profile and presence on the market. Lack of attention to industry regulations may have been a part of this and become something the new owners have to face.
    ​"It was foolish of her not to have bought a larger bottle."

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  14. #74
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    With new ACs and the innovations in perfumery, Caron can do a far better job.
    No one has the baroque glitter of Caron.
    And this house has trade secrets of how to deal with narcissus and resinous materials which I think Guerlain would want to know as well.
    I am hoping whoever comes on, does something because since mid 90s, the house has been in a steady state of decline.
    Also make the marketing different, appeal to the adult-taste in mass market... pull out the knives if you have to, be blatant, it is a multi billion cut throat industry and Caron has ALL the heritage and perfume history (to fall back on).
    I sometimes can't believe masses keep on falling for Sauvages or 1 Millions when you have the holy trinity of Caron (the hommes), or fruity-adolescent mumbo jumbo, Brittany this, JLo that.
    One can only sigh.

    And perfume houses reformulate all the time, it is just the way it is, but key is to keep it as close to the original-- or be upfront, and acknowledge the reformulation.
    Market appreciates the truth about not finding a stranger in a bottle.
    Last edited by Pallas Moncreiff; 10th October 2019 at 08:28 PM.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Interesting reaction to the announcement about current versions of Caron disappearing - no one's talking about stocking up.

    I have still just sampled the one feminine Caron, Tabac Blond edp (box with long ingredients list and what smells like cashmeran in the base).

    The prices on Caron's are on the high end, as well. If there's anything good among the perfumes they're about to destroy, it would be hard to know about it.

    The optimism that Caron might suddenly turn things around is interesting. Wide-eyed optimism is a fun mindset.

    From my one sample of Tabac Blond, I have the impression that these perfumes that are about to be destroyed might be underrated. I can easily understand that Tabac Blond might not be (is not) as good as it used to be. Fair enough. In comparison to perfumes in the current market - I still find it good. If current Tabac Blond came from a niche house, I would consider it an especially promising, tasteful, accomplished new house with gentle use of synthetics.

  16. #76
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Stock up on what?
    I only look for old stock as is, when it comes to Caron. Anything in their current packaging is not what I want. It can’t go anymore downhill, at least to me. Either ditch the whole thing or reformulate with a clear concept where it’s going.
    One can only hope—for better—worse has been happening for a while.

  17. #77

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    From my one sample of Tabac Blond, I have the impression that these perfumes that are about to be destroyed might be underrated.
    Probably so, but the aesthetics of "classic French perfumery" aren't exactly driving demand these days, even in Basenotes-y circles, and Caron doesn't have the brand cachet of Guerlain to make it a perpetual reference point in fraghead conversation.

    Fans of that classic French perfumery style on here are more likely to seek out vintage than to buy current formulations, and its appeal is altogether likely to be lost on contemporary consumers who are seeking different aesthetics.

    Besides, I fear even for Guerlain. Its catalog of classics may have helped maintain it, and, yes, it's had some modest successes in recent years, but it seems ever more adrift in the marketplace. It's been quite a while since the days of L'Instant, the last Guerlain to have some real impact.
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  18. #78

    Default Re: House of Caron

    The thing with Caron, especially in the UK, very very limited where you could actually buy their fragrances.

    Nowhere in Ireland at all.

    I used to just phone the Paris boutique and order that way.

    I remember phoning Les Senteurs in the early 00s trying to order Narcisse Noir extract and they admitted they could not get the stock. Actually found it in a little perfume shop in York which has since closed, they had stock as they sold so little from the house as so few knew about it. As for Harrods, they told me their courier could not cross water(I am in Northern Ireland), I asked if they where vampires? They didn't get the joke. Hence I just phoned the Paris boutique when I wanted to order.

    Caron seems much easier to get in the US back then.
    DONNA
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  19. #79
    Super Member annetteo's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    IMG_20191012_201209.jpg
    I spent hundreds and hundreds of pounds searching for a mystery caron perfume in a lay down bottle which turned out to be Farnesiana,not before I had bought 3 different versions/vintages of Tabac Blond and a parfum sacre and Belodgia!!
    Fortnum and Mason in London has most of the Carons upstairs and were able to identify it at once!Screenshot_2018-11-25-19-37-37.jpg

  20. #80
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Whither Caron?

    I've been wondering for a long time. I missed out on my chance to visit the remaining Caron boutique in NYC. I was becoming interested in vintage perfumes just as it closed. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what is going on with new online shop, wondering if it was worth blindbuying a current Narcisse Noir or Nuit de Noel. If I could just get a flippin' sample of the current versions, see if they are wearable, I'd be fine with buying current. And then, we have the notice shared by clients of Suzan the Paris Shopper https://www.shopfranceinc.com that Caron is being suddenly forced to comply with EU perfume regulations, and new reformulations are underway. I wish there was some other confirmation of this report, but I haven't found it.

    All of my Carons are deep vintage, except for the Tabac Blond I posted upthread, a 1990's Parfum Sacre, This is how I roll, no problemo. But I do think the brand still has potential, if properly managed, along the lines of Grossmith's revival. To me, Caron's historical cachet rivals Guerlain's. Although many are unaware of the brand's history, if they educated buyers and reissued classics in good reformulations and classic bottles (rather than dumping everything into a modernized version of the Fleurs de Rocaille bottle), I think people might still buy. (Meanwhile, Guerlain seems to think everyone wants everything in a bee bottle--sorry, not me!) I was pleased to see that Caron was still selling Narcisse Noir and Nuit de Noel extrait in their iconic flacons. And the masculine classic Carons seem to be hanging on quite well in the market.

    So I do see some grounds for cautious optimismm along the lines of these comments by Pallas Moncrief and Bavard:

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    With new ACs and the innovations in perfumery, Caron can do a far better job. No one has the baroque glitter of Caron. And perfume houses reformulate all the time, it is just the way it is, but key is to keep it as close to the original-- or be upfront, and acknowledge the reformulation. Market appreciates the truth about not finding a stranger in a bottle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    From my one sample of Tabac Blond, I have the impression that these perfumes that are about to be destroyed might be underrated. I can easily understand that Tabac Blond might not be (is not) as good as it used to be. Fair enough. In comparison to perfumes in the current market - I still find it good. If current Tabac Blond came from a niche house, I would consider it an especially promising, tasteful, accomplished new house with gentle use of synthetics.
    IMG_2859.JPG
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  21. #81

    Default Re: House of Caron

    I'm very upset to hear about the discontinuation of many Caron perfumes. I love many Caron scents and don't understand that they are not better appreciated. I'm currently wearing En Avion, one of my favourite scents - heady, sensual, musky neroli. I also love Nuit de Noel, it's truly magical on a winter's evening. Farnesiana is also lovely although I understand that its billowy softness can be a bit too much for some people. Of course, I'm only talking about the extraits. I will be heading to the Caron boutique as soon as I can (I live in Paris) to see what I can find out about the reported discontinuations, and stock up if it's true. Will report back.

  22. #82
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Lilly33 View Post
    I'm very upset to hear about the discontinuation of many Caron perfumes. I love many Caron scents and don't understand that they are not better appreciated. I'm currently wearing En Avion, one of my favourite scents - heady, sensual, musky neroli. I also love Nuit de Noel, it's truly magical on a winter's evening. Farnesiana is also lovely although I understand that its billowy softness can be a bit too much for some people. Of course, I'm only talking about the extraits. I will be heading to the Caron boutique as soon as I can (I live in Paris) to see what I can find out about the reported discontinuations, and stock up if it's true. Will report back.
    People are talking of reformulation rather than discontinuation, though if those rumours are true it would not be a surprise to learn that one or two perfumes have also fallen by the wayside.

    I was in the boutique on rue François 1er a couple of weeks ago and it was surprisingly busy for a weekday afternoon. The assistant didn't mention anything about forthcoming turmoil - but then again why would she?

  23. #83

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    People are talking of reformulation rather than discontinuation, though if those rumours are true it would not be a surprise to learn that one or two perfumes have also fallen by the wayside.

    I was in the boutique on rue François 1er a couple of weeks ago and it was surprisingly busy for a weekday afternoon. The assistant didn't mention anything about forthcoming turmoil - but then again why would she?
    Thanks Sam, I'll still go and see if I can glean any information. Anyway, reformulation scares me too. It's very idealistic to think that they might try to restore these scents to something of their former glory, but I'm not counting on it. That's not what rakes in the cash is it? Just look at Guerlain. So I'm still going to try to stock up on a couple of my favourites.

    I will add to the general discussion by saying that with Caron you have to pick and choose. Many of their scents smell very much alike after the initial top notes disappear.

    As for vintage, I have Tabac Blond, En Avion and Farnesiana in both modern and vintage form, although I cannot tell the dates. But the modern versions are not so very different (except for Tabac Blond which is really very pale in comparison). They certainly aren't as deep and multifaceted as the vintage, alas, but that's always the case, not matter what house.

  24. #84
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Grayspoole: M’lady, I’m hoping one of these you’ll get the spelling of my humble surname correct. (Chuckle allowed...oui?)

    Such insightful responses from all.
    Saminlondon, and Lilly33, thank you for the update from the boutique.
    Lilly33, your posts zero in on what is good and what is wrong with Caron.
    If you have had the pleasure of testing Caron vintages when they were in their full glory or truly well preserved versions, then there is no reconciling to the latter Caron reformulations.
    They could and should have done what they did for Femme. Cresp’s version echoed the old but was a great perfume in its own right.
    The Tabac blonde I own, and the parfum I have tested from 1970s are like Marlene Dietrich of it’s time. Is there any comparison with what we have today... no. And that’s where Caron failed.
    If you couldn’t innovate, if you couldn’t meet that criteria, then, retire a perfume.
    Submitting a hologram to the public and in Caron’s case, it’s always been a discerning public, was and is a bad idea.

    Will wait and see where this goes. I still hope for improvement.
    And what I have would have to suffice. I chased many a bottle back in the day- no more.
    This I can tell you, the first sampling of Nuit de Noel parfum is like the Bard says, a living record, in my olfactory brain.
    A house that has that kind of power should not squander it away (some may use a different tense: should NOT have squandered!)
    But then, the skeptic in me argues back... glory doesn’t last forever either, now does it?

  25. #85
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    Grayspoole: M’lady, I’m hoping one of these you’ll get the spelling of my humble surname correct. (Chuckle allowed...oui?)
    My sincere apologies! I am usually posting from my bed, often in middle of the night, on an iPad, and without much accuracy it seems...
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  26. #86
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    My sincere apologies! I am usually posting from my bed, often in middle of the night, on an iPad, and without much accuracy it seems...
    Your posts are the best, grayspoole.

  27. #87
    Super Member Pallas Moncreiff's Avatar
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    My sincere apologies! I am usually posting from my bed, often in middle of the night, on an iPad, and without much accuracy it seems...
    Gah, that was tongue-in-cheek.
    I've a dry sense of humor, and in written word, doesn't necessarily translate well.
    And here I thought you would tell me (off-handedly, of course)... chuckling is allowed.

  28. #88

    Default Re: House of Caron

    I tried Infini and it is nothing like the 1970’s Infini they discontinued some years ago. I had the impression they pulled a Givenchy and used the old names with new formulas. I haven’t tried other scents though and this may be different for the «*haute parfumerie*» scents as they are categorised on their website.
    Currently wearing: Samsara by Guerlain

  29. #89
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    Default Re: House of Caron

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    I was in the boutique on rue François 1er a couple of weeks ago and it was surprisingly busy for a weekday afternoon. The assistant didn't mention anything about forthcoming turmoil - but then again why would she?
    Quote Originally Posted by Lilly33 View Post
    Thanks Sam, I'll still go and see if I can glean any information. Anyway, reformulation scares me too. It's very idealistic to think that they might try to restore these scents to something of their former glory, but I'm not counting on it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Parfum de peau View Post
    I tried Infini and it is nothing like the 1970’s Infini they discontinued some years ago. I had the impression they pulled a Givenchy and used the old names with new formulas.
    SaminLondon, Lilly33, and Parfum de peau--it's so wonderful to have you on the scene and on the case. I look forward to hearing any information you are able to discover.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pallas Moncreiff View Post
    And here I thought you would tell me (off-handedly, of course)... chuckling is allowed.
    Chuckling is always allowed! And I hope you chuckled at the image of my posting from the bed of insomnia.
    Currently wearing: Amarige by Givenchy

  30. #90

    Default Re: House of Caron

    Thank you, theladymay, for bringing this to my and our attention!

    I phoned the Caron boutique as I always did when ordering. Unfortunately, I have to confirm what theladymay stated - my concern is En Avion. It will only be sold until October 25th. There seems to be plenty of stock left.




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